journey730 Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 my engine light came on and the diagnostic code was for a misfire in the 6th cylinder. I went to the shop and they changed all my spark plugs but not my coils. about 30 miles later the light came on again with same code. I would like to change the coil on the 6th cylinder my self so i can avoid getting jerked around. I saw the firing diagram that the 6th cylinder is in front right. I have a 2011 journey 3.6l V6. Is it easy to access? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 on journeys i have no clue but on my daughters 2009 caravan real easy but there is only one on hers.... are there more on journeys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woah322 Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 There a coil pack on each spark plug. They hardly ever go bad. How many miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journeyman425 Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 2/4/6 are on the driver's side, which is the head that goes bad. More than likely it will need replacement. Your plugs aren't due unti 100K miles. How many miles on the car now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Swap a coil around and see if, in fact, it is a bad coil before spending money on a new one. rolly and webslave 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webslave Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Swap a coil around and see if, in fact, it is a bad coil before spending money on a new one. A good idea for this and any other instance where there is a questionable failure and there are multiple units that can be swapped around. If it (the problem) moves, then that's the culprit, if it doesn't, then it is back to square one. Beats the "shotgun" method where you pick a piece and hope that it is the problem. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 not sure if this helps but my daughters 2007 caravan coil pack went bad causing alot of problems so it got replaced by a mech. and ran fine for about a week them went bad again and on my sugg she took it back to the dealership and after a week and a full tune up wires,plugs and whatever about $700. they said it is fixed about a week later went bad again took it back to a different mech he replaced the coil pack again and the next day it was messing up again so she took it back again and by then it was running ok the mech said leave it with me and tried starting it several times with no problems so he started flexing the wires leading to the coil pack and it started to mess up well the problem was inside the connector on the wire that connects to the coil pack so he replaced it and problem was fixed. so check your wireing going to whatever you are having a problem with.. years ago had the same problem with a connector going to a electric fan in front of the rad. so dont get so fixed on a problem that you cant see anything else that might be the problem good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
journey730 Posted August 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 i have 74k miles and i am going to try the switch around method like someone mentioned. because each cylinder has its own coil. however there is so much in the way to access even the front plugs. I cant find any diagrams or instruction on what i need to remove b4 i make it a bigger project than needed. anybody have or know where i can get instructions on accessing the spark plugs? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 (edited) might want to check and see what your warranty would cover since your still in the 5yr/100k.. good luck DANG i just went outside and pulled the engine cover off and i couldnt find anything that looked like plug wires or spark plugs. WOW they really have them hid good...good luck on what ever you do and let us know what happens..... Edited August 5, 2014 by 2late4u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aukfan33 Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Please take a look at my thread about rental reimbursement. There's an RRT for this very issue. The problem is the cylinder head is defective and will need to be replaced. Even if they don't want to use the RRT, this will be covered by the powertrain warranty. jkeaton and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 i would listen to aukfan33, unless your a great mech. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 might want to check and see what your warranty would cover since your still in the 5yr/100k.. good luck DANG i just went outside and pulled the engine cover off and i couldnt find anything that looked like plug wires or spark plugs. WOW they really have them hid good...good luck on what ever you do and let us know what happens..... They haven't used plug wires for some time... They are coil packs (black squares with what appears to be potting on the top). The wires leading to them are much thinner that a plug wire too, so if you don't know what you are looking for it may be hard to see. On the image on the left side of this page (http://www.allpar.com/mopar/phoenix-engines.html) the coil packs are the 3 black squares on the top with the 2 bolts in them... 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 might want to check and see what your warranty would cover since your still in the 5yr/100k.. good luck DANG i just went outside and pulled the engine cover off and i couldnt find anything that looked like plug wires or spark plugs. WOW they really have them hid good...good luck on what ever you do and let us know what happens..... I think you have to remove the intake manifold to access them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journeyman425 Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 I think you have to remove the intake manifold to access them. Correct - the upper intake manifold must be removed. Unless you have the correct tools and experience, this should be left to a technician whose skill level is commensurate with the job. Going by the Labor Operation number assigned to this job by Chrysler, I would have to delegate this job to one of my techs whose training level was second highest or highest (level 2 or 3) in order to submit a warranty claim in the event that we were doing this job under warranty. Here's an overview: 08 - Electrical/8I - Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition/Removal 3.6L Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 1 and 3 on the RH side of the engine, first remove the resonator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal) . If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 2, 4 or 6 on the LH side of the engine, first remove the upper intake manifold (2) and insulator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal) . NOTE: The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar. Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the ignition coil. Remove the ignition coil mounting bolt (3). Pull the ignition coil (2) from cylinder head cover opening with a slight twisting action. And now for the intake manifold removal: 09 - Engine, 3.6L / Manifolds / MANIFOLD, Intake/Removal UPPER Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the engine cover (1). Remove the resonator (1) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal) . Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7). Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (8) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness. Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3) vapor purge (6) brake booster (2) Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Disengage the wire harness retainer (3) from the studbolt (2). Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (2) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1). Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2). NOTE: The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold. NOTE: Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Remove seven manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2). Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1). Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine. If required, remove the insulator (2) from the LH cylinder head cover. As I stated earlier - my feeling is that your misfire is head-related. Yes, it could be a bad coil but usually that is accompanied by a dead miss and a flashing engine light, neither of which you stated are occurring. You also may have a bad injector as well. They often give the same symptom as a bad coil but sometimes not as severe. Have it diagnosed at a reputable dealer. If you end up needing a cylinder head, the head will be covered by the 10 year / 150K warranty extension which was recently issued by the factory. Journey_SeXT and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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