2late4u

just call around the local garages for a check and price for all 4 corners...To be honest you shouldn't need brakes all the way around for a 2020 journey ,of course we don't know how you drive and also the all important question of how many miles are on the journey...brakes on your journey should have lasted you at least 100 k unless they were abused by heavy stop and go driving..... quality brake pads for all 4 corners should be less than 200 plus 4 new rotors price can vary from 200-400 depending where you buy them from,,,check out Amazon for rotors and pads I only use anadarko pads....actually only the rear are a bit more trouble than the front since you have to rotate the caliper piston instead of compressing them like the front

check All your wires going to the coils and also also clean the connectors also look for any green on the grounds and wires as well very important for a smooth running engines esp up north.....yrs ago my daughters caravan 3.3 kept having intermittent problems running bad, after the starting with plugs and the usually stuff her mechanic said it was her coil going bad he replaced it, ran fine for a while then started acting up again he said the coil was bad again replaced under warranty ran fine for a bit, then started acting up again he replaced the coil again ran fine for a while ,and then started acting up again when he replaced the coil again all under warranty he noticed inside the plastic cap connected to the coil a wire was loose ,plastic was melted a bit he fixed that and NO more problem ....similar problem with a fan switch under the hood on sons old car, sometimes worked and then it wouldn't I found the bad connector and hard wire it back together NO more overheating on that car as well...all in the Alabama weather with hardly any bad salt weather

cant remember, guess whatever their brand they were , came with a 4 yr warranty if I remember correctly I only buy my tires from discount tire company...have never had a problem with them

, don't go to the dealership,,, ANY tire store can replace them my 2014 started acting up a few yrs ago and I just replaced therm all at discount tire store here in Al. cost was around $260 for all 4 ,,you can do it yourself if you want to/have the ability to remove the old ones and reinstall the new ones for a lot less,,,just buy good ones not the cheap knock offs

sad to say but hardly anyone comes back to say what actually fixed their original problems after telling us how much they paid out about using a shotgun for the problems..without proper testing and knowledge of the tourneys history as well...probally best bet is to take it to the dealership ...YES it will be expensive but they have the equipment to fix the journey

I would have to agree with the recall as well.i have had my 2014 replaced twice as well thur the yrs , both times it has done the same things or just flicker and both times they said they just replaced the camera lens in the lift gate. I do have the unlimited warranty but it still cost me a ded of 100 but I usually waited till something else was giving me a problem as well so I wouldn't have an extra charge....the Government has come down hard on other manufactures but never on dodge guess not enough to folks have had the problem and of course our journeys have been put out to pasture....might try to go after market on the camera lens as they really are not to expensive,others on here have done it I believed good luck

you need to use youtube for videos on how to remove your door panels and to see what you need to repair, probally a cable came loose or some plastic braken ,,,never have had any problems with mine but.good luck

there also should be a flat braided wire going from one of those studs and connects to a stud on the engine mount area as well, they had a service bulletin yrs ago about those wires letting mositer go up the plastic coverings and causing problems as well,,,,I had the recall done on it but just around 3 yrs ago the electronic part of the ABS went bad and they replaced it under my extended warranty when the part finally came in from the out of stock backlog

yes the electronic controller and pump

hmm what was the rust protection module? was it something electronic I would assume, never heard of such a devise.....

diesels are not available in the U.S. maybe others overseas will be able to help you,,,welcome to the group,be sure to look Thur the forums for other questions you might have lots of info there

well if you do remove it, look at the metal panel or mounting surface to see if it as bent in a bit,,from your pictures it looks like the arm/shaft took quite a hit I would assume the inner panel had to have been damage or bent in even just a bit would make a big difference

if you want to know for certain just call your local dealership or go by there and give them the vin number it will show what all your journey has on it

first thing i can think of is the metal bracket location where the motor brackets attach are probally pushed in just a small amount causing the motor to not to attach correctly,just a thought.good luck

just measured mine ,12 inch's as well... mine wiped good yrs ago but then started leaving a small miss mark on the top of the wipe, I have tried all different kinds of blades with the same result,,anyways are you sure the blade is on the knurled arm correctly and fully seated,also not sure if washers were used on the bolts of the wiper motor ? just guessing what could have went wrong during the install process,,,also what was the problem before the work was completed just a bad motor or what?

good luck phil,, Total weight is going to be way over the limit

drain holes might solve the problem BUT the real problem is finding the actually water entrance area,,,,,,

check Thur the forums for a lot more info on this problem.there was a post about lifting the hood and on the drivers side firewall and fender area about sealing those seams as well leaks can be a real problem to find...good luck also Google YouTube for videos on dodge journey water leak problems

when you remove the wire connector from the back of the radio make sure it was connected tight and that the pins are in good shape and making a tight connections to the other pins on the radio out side as well...also make sure the ground coming from the radio is good and tight as well

I just bought one of these works great (different brand)

As the title mentioned my grandson got himself a used 2023 telluride around 36 k miles on it about 6 months ago and he has add and a mild case of asperger's syndrome is always putting things off and I did his other oil changes on his Nissan for him and to make a long story short I am making the run to the kia dealership this morning to get a couple of oil filters ( I always buy the OEM filters for whatever vehicle I am working on) and also KIA sometimes get a small oil leak from after market O rings that seem to be a bit thinner on the aftermarket rings...The local dealerships gave his mother a big speal on if he takes it anywhere else it would invalidate his warranty, but I told her they cant do that as long as you do everything right and save the receipts,,and also he has already ran it to he mileage limit of 7500 miles they were telling him 3500 but the manual says 7500 so anyways,anyways I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and everyone complains about the oil housings and batteries on our journeys, well KIA out the plastic oil housing under the front end along side of the engine and you have to remove 6 10 mm bolts out of the plastic skid plate and then the filter canister is bolted to the side of the engine with the cap facing towards the ground ,,,they use about the similar kind plastic oil housing like dodge does....oh well thought I'd throw that out there for the ones that don't like our battery placement but at least dodge did right about the oil filter location B U T I do have to say IF the oil filter housing does have to be replaced it wont be a hard job to do about .4 bolts holds it on and would probably remove the wheel and plastic wheel liner and it is a straight shot for replacement...OH well off to the dealership for the filters right now

LOL...sorry but not sorry ,,,future complaint in the making,,,,wanting to buy the cheapest brand that you already are not really happy with and on the hardest parts to replace... I would go with KYB brand or OEM yes a lot more expensive but the rears are a lot of work from what I have seen and most often the cheap comes out the most expensive....

you mentioned........ There was a small impact in aft RH wheel (you can see attached photo) but everything in the rear suspension has been replaced including the shock absorber with new parts. Balancing of all wheels done. All mentioned below parts are new as well: All brake rotors plus servicing of the calipers. Rear RH and front LH wheel hub/bearing Rear RH drive shaft so was the wheel bearing on which this damaged rim was replaced as well???? I see you said it was the same feeling with the 19 inch rims and the 17 inch rims as well that is why I am asking about the wheel bearing ..........good luck

NOT on a dodge journey but the same process to see if your problem is rear end related also this has been discussed here in the forum quite a bit on driving without the awd shaft installed you tube is full of a lot of info check it out

no mention if one of the wheels have been hit or bent, I had a brand new journey 2011 came with a vibration ,I tracked it down to one of the rim,s dealer replaced it and fixed the problem I kept rotating front to rear in different variations on the wheels till the vib was almost gone then took it to the dealership and told them what I had done and that the bad rim was one of the rears, they figured out which one and looking at it you couldn't tell just bad from the manufacture