2late4u

I am at that point ,that the tires are not toast yet but going into winter time which means 1-3 snows here in Alabama they are reading still in the green but almost in the yellow on my gage and keeping an eye out for a good sale on tires ,damn these 19 inch tires are expensive and of course when I get them an alignment is next on that list,,,no problems there, but if getting new tires better safe than sorry

grew up in Mi and my father always had about 5 50 lb bags of sand each wrapped in a new garbage bag plus a small shovel in the trunk of our family car

Not all brand new starters are GOOD....

easy to google here is what I found,,,,,,,,,,,,Here are the most effective ways to fix a P0420 catalytic converter efficiency code: Clean the Catalytic Converter Try using a catalytic converter cleaner or fuel additive to remove carbon buildup that can affect the catalytic converter’s performance. Do a Proper Diagnosis Before replacing any parts, perform a thorough diagnosis to identify the exact cause of the P0420 code. You will find everything you need to know in this article Replace the Catalytic Converter If the diagnosis confirms the converter is worn out or clogged, replacement may be necessary. Replace the Front or Rear Oxygen Sensor (O2 Sensor) Faulty O2 sensors often cause incorrect readings, triggering the P0420 code. Repair Damaged Sensor Wiring Check and repair any broken, corroded, or shorted wires connected to the oxygen sensors. Replace Damaged Engine Sensors Faulty sensors such as the MAF (Mass Air Flow) or MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor can cause incorrect fuel-air mixtures that lead to P0420. Fix High Oil Consumption Burning oil can contaminate the catalytic converter and reduce its efficiency. Repair Engine Misfires Misfires send unburned fuel into the exhaust, which can damage the catalytic converter. Correct Lean or Rich Fuel Mixtures An incorrect air-fuel ratio can cause incomplete combustion, leading to the P0420 error. Replace the Engine Control Unit (ECU) (Rare) In rare cases, a faulty ECU can misread sensor data, triggering a false P0420 code.

I have not really driven an AWD in snow but I have never had any problems anywhere I wanted to go with my fwd vehicles in any amount of ice or snow

Guess I need to check and see what book they use or what level ..probally NOT private resell price more like trade in value or something like that, we live in a small town and the wife is going down hill with her health she doesn't even want to go on any more gambling trips to Biloxi so I guess that tells me a lot on her health as she was always ready to go at a moments notice,,,going to the Drs or getting her hair done is about the most exciting thing these days

just looked it up kbb and they are saying private sale 4k-8400k

So I was asked by my ins agent did I want to drop full coverage in an attempt to lower my premiums, I immediately said no right away but it did get me thinking at what point it might make sense.... so I have a silver 2014 crossroad 3.6 great shape no damaged body parts 176 k on the clock and I do have the lifetime warranty as well of course that wouldn't transfer to anyone else...was wondering how ins companies would treat me with a payout or replacement in case of it being totaled do they go by replacement value or kbb value? guess I'll start checking into this but it seems like replacing it would still be worth quite a bit....

I buy my oil filters from the dealership they are just as cheap as most auto stores or walmart

not sure but do you have an anti/theft system installed on your journey?

to be honest I forgot about the rear wires as well,,,glad you found it out and to your future repair of all the wires on the hatch as well

broken wire or the switch going bad? have you checked the voltage when it is activated at the pump?

Welcome to the group ,sounds like you knew what you were buying,at least I hope so... folks with more mech knowledge will chime in soon,,,good luck on your problem....P.S. I assume you bought the 3.6 engine..... they will need to know which engine you have for complete advise ,,alone with mileage as well

also just be aware that the heater core on journeys are a 2 zone so 1 zone for the drivers side and 1 zone for the passenger so that is how you can get warm on one side but cold on the other side,,check out the YouTube video on how to do a short cut on replacing the heater core.... either do a flush and then wonder if you will get a leak from the heater core or just go ahead and replace it...your choice I assume,,,also you never did say which engine you have???????????????

lets see,,,,,, 2012,,,,,,, when was the last time you or the journey had a coolant change, have it checked and as mentioned above do the flush esp for the heater core after all its only 13 yrs old....plugged up or restricted heater core is about the only thing that would cause your problem....... what is the temp running on the journey and what engine running at and what is the mileage as well?????????

sometimes the clips can be slightly different from each other so that might have been the case for your problems with the pads being to tight...one thing Tom do when you follow YouTube is to watch about 10 of them because remember YouTube is filled with a lot of shade tree mechanics that either do it right or wrong or don't know what all they are doing ,,,that said YouTube is a good way to get a view of what to do and each one can give you good info on what to do ,,,that is what I always do ...also when ever you get ready to do your rear pads remember that the caliper TWIST in and NOT pushes in as the fronts do,,,, take care and sounds like the brakes are working properly since they are working okay...

the brake pads SHOULD fit into the bracket clips with ease IF you had to pound them in then you need to redo it all remove the clips and clean or wire brush the bracket and then reinstall the brake clips /or use new ones and make sure you have cleaned and regressed with caliper grease your caliper pins one at a time so you don't get them mixed up as well

not a big mistake,I wouldn't bother to redo it myself

well I finished up getting the preventive maintenance done on my 2014 it has around 178 k and I already did the brake flush and also the coolant flush and did the power steering flush as well as of today,so simple but some how I managed to make a mess with the fluid ( spilled it after being so careful about removing it and NOT making a mess) oh well should be set for another 100 k hopefully..... I change out 1-2 quarts of trans fluid every 5 k, when I do the oil changes.

I hope you weren't just adding water, as that would lower the coolant ability causing you to overheat the engine and ruin it, better have the antifreeze checked to see where it is at.......could be a bad hose or as mentioned a bad connector clamp,,,,Better get it checked out and fixed before you ruin your engine

well I got the coolant flush done today, flushed with distilled water 3 times ( I didn't do a power flush just drained the rad and refilled with water)did this 3 times and took it for a short drive in between each to get the thermostat to open, ran fairly clear on the last one so then refilled with distilled water and Mopar antifreeze, did this refill and dump 2 more times as well then refilled with final distilled water and Mopar coolant and took it for a long drive keeping an eye of the temp level, checked the coolant bottle with a tester and looking great 4 balls a floating....just a bit low on the coolant bottle reservoir, ordered another bottle of the Mopar coolant to top it off and have some extra as well,,,,,was kind of messy doing it the way I did but it was a lot easier than dropping the front air dam and all the plastic crap... dealer had done the service back in 2021/23 so the fluid look really good so I really didn't want to use any flush chemicals...

I am getting ready to do a coolant service on my 2014 3.6 176 k ,had it done yrs ago at the dealership at 95 k,so was thinking I'd do a dump and fill but guess I'll do a flush as well Not having any problems with the temps or lack of heat problems but it is getting older as I am as well...after watching a few YouTube videos my god they put the drain plug in the worst place to get to ,you have to remove the front spoiler /air dam and also the left side fender well , but I did see one video where the guy points out that looking at the front left side thur the lower grill you will see the blue plug and he drilled a small hole so he could reach up with a screwdriver to loosen the drain plug,,and so I checked it out and thought hell yes way easier than removing all the plastic pushpins which most of them break as well I took a hole saw that I had and drilled a 2 inch hole and they it is easy access and when I am done I plan on putting some metal aluminum tape over the hole probally a couple of layers as well and then spray some black paint top cover the silver color...just wondering if I should bother with the flush like the dealerships do or do it ? what do you all think???? I already have the 2 gallons Mopar oat fluid and about 6 gallons of distilled water.....

that clunk is the strut bearings at the top of the struts from what I have heard over the yrs...I was just doing some work on my journey and I reached up around the top of the struts and it felt like the bushing or what ever was deteriorating as orange sponge rubber or something like that was coming apart up there 178 k on mine

well I had some Facebook cash from their settlement from around 10 yrs ago ,,,,untold millions to be paid out and my share was $32.50...so I thought well,I had to take it on a MasterCard virtual gift card with a bunch of restrictions on how to spend it,,, but thought id invest it in some brake fluid and windshield washer spray fluid,,,wasn't to bad to do except I went to buy a turkey baster and NO ONE had any in stock at over 3 different stores...LOL had to use a medical syringe and a small tubing to remove what I could from the brake master cylinder and then removed the wheels just to make it a bit easier to loosen the small plugs and attach a vinyl tubing to it and drain into a clear catch bottle,I used up the whole quart of brake fluid system only about half a litre( . 5 litre = . 53 quarts) I had bought 2 quarts and I guess I should have run both of them threw the system but didn't ....the old fluid was fairly dark so I guess 11 yrs it was time,,,,LOL actually this was the first time I have ever done a flush , I have did bleeds before.....should have done it sooner I guess... So every other oil change I am taking 2 quarts of trans fluid out with a harbor freight fluid pump Thur the dip stick and replacing with 2 Mopar trans fluid quarts,,,, the fluid still looks nice and red BUT just thought I'd try to help it stay that way just turned 176 k on it and had the trans serviced at around 65k and then again at 105 k when I had the plugs and coolant service done as well so I am up to date on most of the maintenance service

are you saying you have power to the res plug? here is a youtube video showing the res location and replacement, some of the comments are saying they don't have a res in that location,,,that said if you don't have one there than you probably need to take it to a garage that has the knowledge and tools to figure out what is wrong and what to replace it...also dealership parts counter should have some info on where the res is located as well//good luck..................