2late4u

the brake pads SHOULD fit into the bracket clips with ease IF you had to pound them in then you need to redo it all remove the clips and clean or wire brush the bracket and then reinstall the brake clips /or use new ones and make sure you have cleaned and regressed with caliper grease your caliper pins one at a time so you don't get them mixed up as well

not a big mistake,I wouldn't bother to redo it myself

well I finished up getting the preventive maintenance done on my 2014 it has around 178 k and I already did the brake flush and also the coolant flush and did the power steering flush as well as of today,so simple but some how I managed to make a mess with the fluid ( spilled it after being so careful about removing it and NOT making a mess) oh well should be set for another 100 k hopefully..... I change out 1-2 quarts of trans fluid every 5 k, when I do the oil changes.

I hope you weren't just adding water, as that would lower the coolant ability causing you to overheat the engine and ruin it, better have the antifreeze checked to see where it is at.......could be a bad hose or as mentioned a bad connector clamp,,,,Better get it checked out and fixed before you ruin your engine

well I got the coolant flush done today, flushed with distilled water 3 times ( I didn't do a power flush just drained the rad and refilled with water)did this 3 times and took it for a short drive in between each to get the thermostat to open, ran fairly clear on the last one so then refilled with distilled water and Mopar antifreeze, did this refill and dump 2 more times as well then refilled with final distilled water and Mopar coolant and took it for a long drive keeping an eye of the temp level, checked the coolant bottle with a tester and looking great 4 balls a floating....just a bit low on the coolant bottle reservoir, ordered another bottle of the Mopar coolant to top it off and have some extra as well,,,,,was kind of messy doing it the way I did but it was a lot easier than dropping the front air dam and all the plastic crap... dealer had done the service back in 2021/23 so the fluid look really good so I really didn't want to use any flush chemicals...

I am getting ready to do a coolant service on my 2014 3.6 176 k ,had it done yrs ago at the dealership at 95 k,so was thinking I'd do a dump and fill but guess I'll do a flush as well Not having any problems with the temps or lack of heat problems but it is getting older as I am as well...after watching a few YouTube videos my god they put the drain plug in the worst place to get to ,you have to remove the front spoiler /air dam and also the left side fender well , but I did see one video where the guy points out that looking at the front left side thur the lower grill you will see the blue plug and he drilled a small hole so he could reach up with a screwdriver to loosen the drain plug,,and so I checked it out and thought hell yes way easier than removing all the plastic pushpins which most of them break as well I took a hole saw that I had and drilled a 2 inch hole and they it is easy access and when I am done I plan on putting some metal aluminum tape over the hole probally a couple of layers as well and then spray some black paint top cover the silver color...just wondering if I should bother with the flush like the dealerships do or do it ? what do you all think???? I already have the 2 gallons Mopar oat fluid and about 6 gallons of distilled water.....

that clunk is the strut bearings at the top of the struts from what I have heard over the yrs...I was just doing some work on my journey and I reached up around the top of the struts and it felt like the bushing or what ever was deteriorating as orange sponge rubber or something like that was coming apart up there 178 k on mine

well I had some Facebook cash from their settlement from around 10 yrs ago ,,,,untold millions to be paid out and my share was $32.50...so I thought well,I had to take it on a MasterCard virtual gift card with a bunch of restrictions on how to spend it,,, but thought id invest it in some brake fluid and windshield washer spray fluid,,,wasn't to bad to do except I went to buy a turkey baster and NO ONE had any in stock at over 3 different stores...LOL had to use a medical syringe and a small tubing to remove what I could from the brake master cylinder and then removed the wheels just to make it a bit easier to loosen the small plugs and attach a vinyl tubing to it and drain into a clear catch bottle,I used up the whole quart of brake fluid system only about half a litre( . 5 litre = . 53 quarts) I had bought 2 quarts and I guess I should have run both of them threw the system but didn't ....the old fluid was fairly dark so I guess 11 yrs it was time,,,,LOL actually this was the first time I have ever done a flush , I have did bleeds before.....should have done it sooner I guess... So every other oil change I am taking 2 quarts of trans fluid out with a harbor freight fluid pump Thur the dip stick and replacing with 2 Mopar trans fluid quarts,,,, the fluid still looks nice and red BUT just thought I'd try to help it stay that way just turned 176 k on it and had the trans serviced at around 65k and then again at 105 k when I had the plugs and coolant service done as well so I am up to date on most of the maintenance service

are you saying you have power to the res plug? here is a youtube video showing the res location and replacement, some of the comments are saying they don't have a res in that location,,,that said if you don't have one there than you probably need to take it to a garage that has the knowledge and tools to figure out what is wrong and what to replace it...also dealership parts counter should have some info on where the res is located as well//good luck..................

I have had thoes adj links installed on my 2014 around 5-6 yrs now after ruining some tires before I caught the OEM part went bad, I had installed an after market hitch and used a carrier for my wife's 3 wheel medical scooter and I believe maybe that is what caused the OEM arm to get out of adj, I never had this happen with my 2011 journey but I used to lift the scooter and put it in the rear hatch back area back then,,,LOL I had to go to the carrier as it was a real Hassle getting it into the rear hatch space.... KIND of weird that dodge would use an arm that was non-adjustable for an alinement part

thanks for your solution to your journeys problems and yes good clean grounds for any vehicle are VERY important,,before replacing parts start with the basics is a very important solution...I am lucky to live in a southern state with very little snow or ice .

also as far as the clicking noise keep a close eye on which vent are working or not working as on the right side /passenger side you have 2 blend door actuators and when they work it turns on it regulates which vents work on that side ,,,defrosters, floor, dash vents,,they are controlled by the controls on the dash and should only be making a noise when you push the control for each one

TIPM or PCM - Dodge Journey Forum this at the end ended up being his alt being the problem might be worth checking it out

I would check all the body grounds to make sure they are making a good connection with No corrosion,,, also check your battery ground connector to make sure it is clean and tight as well ,,you could just remove the fuse for the glove box light or remove the build as it really is a joke having to have a light in the glove box to see if that helps out with your problems

OEM is what I would use

make sure you are using a quality coil pack,I have watched so many videos lately from bad or counterfeit cheap coils causing problems....ALSO you tube has a some great videos on how to replace the plugs and such

so is it a dodge journey or a Fiat freemont? what are the emblems on it show? just wondering since you said what you said. didn't know they shipped freemonts to the us??????

nothing new there,,,, as they charge over here as well...........if you don't want to pay someone to scan it, then buy yourself a scanner off the internet but it will cost you more than the dealership/garage price to scan it

more likely the push buttons on the fob are wearing out, might check out YouTube more info on fixing the fobs or ebay to buy replacements,they do have to be programmed to your journey and once programmed toi a vehicle they cant be reprogrammed to any other vehicles...good luck and welcome to the group

I would have it set thur the radio to stay on all the time but then when my kids would go for a ride back there they would turn that switch back there and it would not work and I do remember that it seem to to act up as well sorry but its been about 9 yrs since I had the dual zone ac

check e bay ??????? only other advise since you are not sure about which part you need would be go to a reliable engine shop in your town and tell them all your info and hope they can find the right part and installed it for you,,dealerships don't like to use aftermarket parts or used parts due to warranty problems and everything ass with the search where as a local shop is more up their alley

that is where it is has been so long since I had my 2011,I am sure others will chime in on what to set it on,,,, in a way I do miss the dual zone as it did a better job cooling and we live in alabama

if you have the dual zone climate controls there is a switch in the rear that needs to be turned off other wise it will go on and off according to the temp back there,,I had that in my 2011 ,my 2014 doesn't have the dual zone

as far as gas mileage goes 12-14 is on low side someone must have a heavy foot,the journey doesn't get good mpg in the city and it does a lot better on the hwy which I avg around 26-27 on the freeway around town and some highway driving 21-22 worst I have ever got is just in town driving and it was around 15-16 ,,,it is how its driven and the conditions its driven in also sometimes the trans might be a bit jerky I have noticed is where you hesitate on the gas when accelerating or slowing down and then going back to accelerate and its trying to decided which gear it wants, it hasn't happened lately but it does happen, no worry's on it anyways

I have a 2014 3.6 178 k on the cluster , and had to replace the oil pressure sensor at around 34 k of course under my warranty and also the thermostat as well about 2 yrs ago, which I did since it cost less for me to do it other than the dealership $100 ded that I have,,,,, trans is good until around 100k I WOULDN'T do a flush just change the filter and replace the fluid with OME approved fluid,plugs are good as well along with the coolant service at around 100k that said I had my trans serviced at around 60k at the dealership and then again at around 100 along with the plugs and coolant service yes high but I have the unlimited warranty yrs and mileage and wanted it on their record that they had done it, I worked at chrysler so I always owned dodge trucks and caravans and seems I always had to do a transmission rebuild on all of them LOL except this one..as far as brakes go I buy my rotors off amazon name brand only and also I only use akebono pads from amazon and they will last you forever I started using them on my daughters mail vehicle for yrs after I quit using Wagner thermoquiet pads that seem to be not as good as they use to be,she would go thur a set every 5 months till I switched to the akebono pads...act 1589 front ,,,,act 1596 rear they build the OEM pads for most vehicles and made in the USA as far as I know...... and I did have a ABS unit replaced thur the dealership and also the OIL COOLER leak which you can see if you remove the engine cover and shine an led light straight down along the side of the housing which is how I found my leak before it became a bad problem,,also I had the electronic drivers side control unit go bad as well last yr had it done at the dealership with the OEM part as I had them doing something else as well,, about 2 yrs ago I had discount tire replaced all the TPMS since the batteries has started to go out, and about 4 yrs ago I had the upper rear lateral links replaced/upper rear control arms as some call them,,,,,, the OEM are non adjustable and I had aftermarket adjustable ones installed as I was wearing the inside of the tires out premature maybe due to the wife's 3 wheel scooter we carry on a hitch rack......... anyways welcome to the group P.S. one other problem I had was the windshield wiper washer hose cracked at the hood edge of the drivers side as they used an hard plastic line and the opening and closing the hood it tends to break there I just bought about 2-3 ft of rubber washer hose and cut out the plastic and replaced it and no more problems with that at least...LOL