2late4u

5rebel9 is right on spot with cleaning and checking all the grounds as dodges are bad with them especially up north with all the salt they use,,,also I watch South main auto he is up in the New York area and this kind of problem is usually a wire corroded or broken causing a lot of different problems but mostly with the grounds at the frame and other spots

hmm I would dare to say its broken, other than that I would check into getting it serviced by a competent repair shop,or replace the cluster with a replacement from a used vehicle like lkq,,,good luck

Dealer called and said the camera just came in so I told him will be in later today if they weren't covered up and he said bring it on,so got there around !;30 and they got it in and back out to in about 1 hr just enough to look at some of the new vehicles, man have the prices shot up so high, don't see how they are selling them but he said actually sales have been good for this time of a yr he had just sold a new truck 82K ram 250 diesel loaded up as he said...Seen one of them hornet SUV didn't really think to much of it tho, our journeys look alot better than that thing

Well my rear camera has went bad again, I had it replaced about 3-4 yrs ago under my warranty and it started acting up again a week ago,right after I just had it in for the door lock switch on the drivers side.oh well kind of distracting trying to back up with the picture rolling horizontal on the screen.or the image flipped upside down or the screen going blank,both times it has been the camera unit itself that they have replaced I seen the OEM part listed on Mopar parts for $420. plus labor and yes I know you can buy the generic camera for a lot less which if I didn't have my $100 deductible I might have tried to replace it myself but going Thur the dealership is a lot easier for me to not have to fix it myself,,, I did report it to the ntsa website both times and maybe they will make dodge cover the repair as they are doing to some of the other car manufactures have been recently in the news of course with it being 10 yrs old and 167 k on it guess I cant complain,,,just glad I bought this unlimited yrs and mileage warranty when I did, way ahead of the game as of now... My local dealership has started a new repair service just bring it buy and they take a quick look at what they think it is and then( as they don't keep to many parts in stock now days ) they order the part and then call me when it comes in and tell me bring it in whenever I want and I can wait on it while it is being repaired, both times it has been less than an Hour or two for it to be fixed

Most people don't want to change out the belt tensioner,BUT it only makes sense to do that when they are putting on a new belt,but it only makes sense to install a new one,and yes they can be expensive

there are videos on you tube showing how to replace it without taking the top of the engine off..check them out

yes since there is no actually check on what condition of the oil is at. Its to easy NOT to reset it,haven't seen mine in so along as I usually do it between 5k and 6k

change out the thermostat first ,,easy to do and also the cheapest,make sure you use the right coolant as well the temp should be around 200-205 normal and go as high as 218-220 then cool back down

the cheap always comes out more expensive

try your local part store also found this on you tube.........

well all of a sudden my drivers door unlock switch started acting up not wanting to work you could hear the other doors trying to unlock but nothing from the drivers door, sometimes it would work after one or two pushes and when it did they all would unlock,tried cleaning the button with some contact leaner but no help there, did some research on aftermarket switches on Amazon very reasonable price but the reviews on longevity wasn't encouraging of course for 20-25 plus tax might have been worth it for some to try,,,cheapest OEM switch was around 160 with my 25% discount(retired chrysler employee) would have been around 120 plus tax,Sense I have my max Mopar warranty with just a 100 deductible only made sense to let them do it,ran by the dealership today and they verified it was the switch and ordered it and will be installed Monday... they are real easy to replace just pop them out with a plastic tool or I used the wife's bcbs medicare card...LOL and then just 2 connectors ,if I could have found a journey at a junkyard /salvage yard and got the part reasonable I would have done it myself,one reason I wanted to use OEM as it has lasted 10yrs of regular use so wasn't ready to gamble on the after market ones

2 inches of blue fluid showing on the oil dip stick, is to fluid I had marked mine ( 2014) yrs ago and 1 1/2 inch is the normal area for red fluid and also wrong color,

go on lkq or your local salvage yard for a used ptu unit,if its not a replaceable seal ,then that will be your only option I would assume

Have you tried your local dodge dealership part store?

no 2.7 v6 in the U.S. region only a 2.4 4cly is used here other than the 3.6 v6 engine ,sorry about that,maybe someone will know the answer for you

he should get into the abs module they are real hard to get new, I waited almost 2 yrs for mine from the dealership since it was a warranty issue and I could still drive it,,just got it fixed about 2-3 months ago

More likely a bad battery or loose dirty connections at the battery,if battery is more than 3 yrs old just replace it and then have the alt checked

good question for the dealership to answer,,,,,, please report back on what you find out

are you losing any coolant? change out your rad cap as well...how overheated did you get it? have the engine head checked for crack or bad head gasket,is your heater core working as it should heat inside the journey?

well I would fill the journey up with gas and see which is the accurate one, also reset your trip odd as well and then until you get it fixed go by your mileage on the trip or reg gas gage if it is reading correct as well...you could try removing the battery cables at the jump points under the hood and leave them off for 20 minutes or so and then reconnect them to see if that resets your gas light,,,if this doesn't help them looks like a trip to the dealership is in order

Might be time to have the dealership OR a qualified garage check it out YES they charge a dig charge but I have always found they apply such charge towards the repair, sounds like you have covered most of what you can,time to let the pros check it out.please report back on what you find out to be your problem for others to learn from

as most of the time just a simple mistake/connector not connected tight,,,Glad you got it fixed before throwing lots of parts at it.......

by the time I got Thur reading the story, I couldn't remember your problem,sounds like you got a lot of unresolved problems...good luck

7 yrs old just replace the trans fluid and filter no matter what the mileage,only makes sense

?Welcome to the group