2late4u

welcome to the group, also check out the forum on lowering it has been discussed with pictures as well

hard to tell over the internet, but if you can get it going then it drives fine, sounds more like engine problems as well as mentioned above replace your plugs,before doing anything else .

as he said search the forum it has been done and discussed here quite a bit for thoes interested in it

that bolt could have been a bit longer, hopefully the rust will bond it on there....LOL

if you used you oil dip stick it should bottom out as it cant be put in to far,if your not sure if you marked the dip dtick right them you can buy a test stick from a part store............

lol I was ready just to put a piece of black tape over the light BUT the wife didnt like that idea i told her hell i am 70 yrs old and drove cars for 40 yrs without all this fancy crap that is always messing up but as usual she won the argument and it only cost me around $ 300 to get some peace and quiet LOL

after they did mine ( all 4 of them) they hooked up a different scanner and said they reset them all, but for around 2-3 days after they did that sometimes the light would still come on and then after that they light went off and stayed off i tried to unhook the module in the rear left upper wheel well but it didnt want to come undone for me so i left it and as i said then the light went off and no more problems,,,,,they did tell me that it was best to replace all 4 of the tpms as he said if you just replace the bad ones then sometimes it messes with the computers logic on the psi, dont know if that was true but decided to replace all 4 instead of just the bad ones....

if you mark your dip stick like in the video OR go by a test dip stick that the part stores sell for our journeys when you add the fluid you go by the dip stick,,,i marked mine before i had the dealership change it and it came out right in the middle where it should be......and NO you will never remove the same amount of fluid every time, you could catch it all in a pan then measure it minus what you cant get out off the pan, and always use the correct trans fluid,not sure of what you are asking about cheap trans fluid if it is the correct type....as i said before fix your eng mounts BEFORE you mess with the trans just to see if it helps but you are coming due for the trans service.... JUST wondering have you had the journey checked for any set codes that might be in the memory? also why not have the trans looked at by your after market warranty for any info they may give you as well

you can google it off youtube as to see how to mark your oil dipstick ( i did that myself ,so i could always be able to check it), as far as changing your trans fluid and replacing the filter that is up to you weather you feel you can do it yourself...i myself i just let the dealership do it ,yes more expensive but i also have the mopar warranty and just wanted it on the record that they had done it

i would have the eng mounts changed as well as having the trans fluid changed BUT after i did the mounts ,just so you could see which one might have helped the problem

YES definitely go to a muffler shop, simple repair they will just cut or use a cutting torch to remove the nut on the other side of the flange and then do their fix and re-bolt it back together probally with a gasket in between the flange,,shouldn't be to much

wouldn't think so, to bad bad you cant go back to the oem one as it was a better set-up as it rec the air from the front grill like a cold ram air air set up , now your set up doesnty get the clod air only the air from around the inside of the engine compartment

could be some corrosion under the TPIM, check that first before unloading the parts cannon

he never reported back on what happened, that is SO important on blogs so it can help others

so i take it you have a K-N filter is it possible you re-oiled it to much? i would probally clean everything down stream of the filter and as you mentioned the throttle body being dirty or going bad....how many miles /km on the engine.........my daughter had the 2.4 in her jeep patriot that she used on her post office route and she sold it with 130k of route miles on it.other than plugs air filters and batteries no engine problems, now wheel bearings and a few other things not so great...LOL but the engine always ran great

actually the ngk are the org oem plugs, dont use the iridiums ones, use the cheaper copper core ones as the are the best suited for the 2.4 eng good luck and report back on your problem

as mentioned above do the plugs with oem brand ,the plugs are cheap around 15 -20 for all 4 of them, also i would run a couple of cans of Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner thur the system as well, also make sure the air cleaner is fairly new as well,,,

5rebel9 well i bent the plastic liner down and seen the module and then pushed down on the gray plastic tab to unlock the connector BUT the 2 connectors still did not wanting to come apart, so i pushed on the gray locking tab a little more and it actually fell out of the connector but they still didnt want to come unlatched and i didnt want to ruin the connectors till i ask you if there was a special way to seperate them, i havent removed the two 10 mm bots as i figured it would be easier to get the electrical connection undone that way while it was still attached to the wheel well,,,any advise?

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Which engine do you have and mileage as well???????what is the temp in your info section say it is, 200-205 normal running down the road 205-213 is normal at around 70 mph, have you replaced your thermostat yet?i had to replace mine on my 2014 ( 3.6 motor) at around 135k,,make sure you use the oat antifreeze. also there are different kinds for different yrs so dont get confused and buy the generic good for all cars brand real easy to do i would start there if i was you ,i used aftermarket thermostat around $20 but which i had used an oem from the dealership as it seems to run a bit higher now 200-205 used to run 195-200 before, but i didnt have the option of getting the parts ahead of time like you will...good luck Mopar 68163849AB 10 Year/150,000 Mile Coolant 50/50 Premixed - Embittered Visit the Mopar Store 4.8 4.8 out of 5 stars 3,773 ratings | 456 answered questions Amazon'sChoicein Antifreezes & Coolants by Mopar List Price: $17.50$17.50 Details Price: $14.11$14.11

thanks,, mine had been working great since they put in the new wheel tpm sensor but my daughters dog ran away yesterday, and i was out driving real slow for about an hr or two and then the left front went blank on the screen and then by the time i got home driving normal speeds it started working okay again,, and then later on i went back out to look for her dog again and the same thing happened again only the right front side,, and then on the way home at normal speed it started working again correctly, so was going to try to clean the pins and use some dielectric grease like you said you did ...oh well at least that is the plan

when you access the module did you remove the wheel liner completely or just the top and then bend the liner to access it?, was going to remove the liner but them plastic pin connectors are tough to remove without damaging them,

lol, so much info ,,,would suspect your thermostat more than anything else

your mechanic or oil change place just didnt reset the computer,,this info is also mentioned in your car manual as well

this has been discussed quite a bit look thur the forum is above under engine and drivetrain and look thur for the info and yes you can just keep it fwd.