2late4u

I have had thoes adj links installed on my 2014 around 5-6 yrs now after ruining some tires before I caught the OEM part went bad, I had installed an after market hitch and used a carrier for my wife's 3 wheel medical scooter and I believe maybe that is what caused the OEM arm to get out of adj, I never had this happen with my 2011 journey but I used to lift the scooter and put it in the rear hatch back area back then,,,LOL I had to go to the carrier as it was a real Hassle getting it into the rear hatch space.... KIND of weird that dodge would use an arm that was non-adjustable for an alinement part

thanks for your solution to your journeys problems and yes good clean grounds for any vehicle are VERY important,,before replacing parts start with the basics is a very important solution...I am lucky to live in a southern state with very little snow or ice .

also as far as the clicking noise keep a close eye on which vent are working or not working as on the right side /passenger side you have 2 blend door actuators and when they work it turns on it regulates which vents work on that side ,,,defrosters, floor, dash vents,,they are controlled by the controls on the dash and should only be making a noise when you push the control for each one

TIPM or PCM - Dodge Journey Forum this at the end ended up being his alt being the problem might be worth checking it out

I would check all the body grounds to make sure they are making a good connection with No corrosion,,, also check your battery ground connector to make sure it is clean and tight as well ,,you could just remove the fuse for the glove box light or remove the build as it really is a joke having to have a light in the glove box to see if that helps out with your problems

OEM is what I would use

make sure you are using a quality coil pack,I have watched so many videos lately from bad or counterfeit cheap coils causing problems....ALSO you tube has a some great videos on how to replace the plugs and such

so is it a dodge journey or a Fiat freemont? what are the emblems on it show? just wondering since you said what you said. didn't know they shipped freemonts to the us??????

nothing new there,,,, as they charge over here as well...........if you don't want to pay someone to scan it, then buy yourself a scanner off the internet but it will cost you more than the dealership/garage price to scan it

more likely the push buttons on the fob are wearing out, might check out YouTube more info on fixing the fobs or ebay to buy replacements,they do have to be programmed to your journey and once programmed toi a vehicle they cant be reprogrammed to any other vehicles...good luck and welcome to the group

I would have it set thur the radio to stay on all the time but then when my kids would go for a ride back there they would turn that switch back there and it would not work and I do remember that it seem to to act up as well sorry but its been about 9 yrs since I had the dual zone ac

check e bay ??????? only other advise since you are not sure about which part you need would be go to a reliable engine shop in your town and tell them all your info and hope they can find the right part and installed it for you,,dealerships don't like to use aftermarket parts or used parts due to warranty problems and everything ass with the search where as a local shop is more up their alley

that is where it is has been so long since I had my 2011,I am sure others will chime in on what to set it on,,,, in a way I do miss the dual zone as it did a better job cooling and we live in alabama

if you have the dual zone climate controls there is a switch in the rear that needs to be turned off other wise it will go on and off according to the temp back there,,I had that in my 2011 ,my 2014 doesn't have the dual zone

as far as gas mileage goes 12-14 is on low side someone must have a heavy foot,the journey doesn't get good mpg in the city and it does a lot better on the hwy which I avg around 26-27 on the freeway around town and some highway driving 21-22 worst I have ever got is just in town driving and it was around 15-16 ,,,it is how its driven and the conditions its driven in also sometimes the trans might be a bit jerky I have noticed is where you hesitate on the gas when accelerating or slowing down and then going back to accelerate and its trying to decided which gear it wants, it hasn't happened lately but it does happen, no worry's on it anyways

I have a 2014 3.6 178 k on the cluster , and had to replace the oil pressure sensor at around 34 k of course under my warranty and also the thermostat as well about 2 yrs ago, which I did since it cost less for me to do it other than the dealership $100 ded that I have,,,,, trans is good until around 100k I WOULDN'T do a flush just change the filter and replace the fluid with OME approved fluid,plugs are good as well along with the coolant service at around 100k that said I had my trans serviced at around 60k at the dealership and then again at around 100 along with the plugs and coolant service yes high but I have the unlimited warranty yrs and mileage and wanted it on their record that they had done it, I worked at chrysler so I always owned dodge trucks and caravans and seems I always had to do a transmission rebuild on all of them LOL except this one..as far as brakes go I buy my rotors off amazon name brand only and also I only use akebono pads from amazon and they will last you forever I started using them on my daughters mail vehicle for yrs after I quit using Wagner thermoquiet pads that seem to be not as good as they use to be,she would go thur a set every 5 months till I switched to the akebono pads...act 1589 front ,,,,act 1596 rear they build the OEM pads for most vehicles and made in the USA as far as I know...... and I did have a ABS unit replaced thur the dealership and also the OIL COOLER leak which you can see if you remove the engine cover and shine an led light straight down along the side of the housing which is how I found my leak before it became a bad problem,,also I had the electronic drivers side control unit go bad as well last yr had it done at the dealership with the OEM part as I had them doing something else as well,, about 2 yrs ago I had discount tire replaced all the TPMS since the batteries has started to go out, and about 4 yrs ago I had the upper rear lateral links replaced/upper rear control arms as some call them,,,,,, the OEM are non adjustable and I had aftermarket adjustable ones installed as I was wearing the inside of the tires out premature maybe due to the wife's 3 wheel scooter we carry on a hitch rack......... anyways welcome to the group P.S. one other problem I had was the windshield wiper washer hose cracked at the hood edge of the drivers side as they used an hard plastic line and the opening and closing the hood it tends to break there I just bought about 2-3 ft of rubber washer hose and cut out the plastic and replaced it and no more problems with that at least...LOL

Update,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, on the smell and not to jink myself but it is gone or almost gone as of last nite and still gone as of now. I had power washed the underside as well as the engine compartment so maybe what ever was dead or stinking I knocked it loose,as from all I did the other day and didn't see or see anything it had me going crazy don't believe it is the padding oin the inside since I was smelling it on the front right side fender well/engine compartment....SO I believe my problem is gone as of now... thanks for everyone's thoughts and /help

on a side note while I had the right side fender wheel well I tore apart , I examined the strut real good at the top where the bearing is at, all I good see or feel felt tight but there was something like orange cork crumbling around the edges of the strut bearing face/side where it meets the metal I have around 178k on the journey and have had the clunking noise at times,,, the struts seem to be working okay and no oil stains going down them so still okay,,,,,,

got up early this morning so, looked it all over again real good couldn't really find anything out of the ordinary filter is clean and nothing wrong with it,I use an k-n cabin filter and I keep it washed out and clean so no problems there, the strange thing as I still can get a strong wiff of him in the engine department over the alt on the passenger side, I had took the journey done to the quarter car wash yesterday and sprayed the whole engine and the right fender side real good and then later on I removed the right side wheel fender underside as well nothing found there,,,this am I did remove some clips on the firewall below the windshield area about 3-4 push pins and was able to lower the cover about 2 inches and it looked clean but I blew some compressed air from the drivers side towards the passenger side nothing came out but it did seem to have smell a bit,had to give it up for the day as it was getting ready to storm here these morning and coming down hard right now, the smell seems to be less as of now but that might change was looking at a horoscope from harbor freight to snake the vents around $85 for the cheapest but they don't say in the description on how long the cable /camera is? oh well I'll report back on what I find/dont find out later on...take care everyone

the bad smell started yesterday passenger side 2014 crossroad smells like a dead mouse I would assume,I have checked the engine over real good, smell is strongest on the passenger side around the fender and also inside the journey when the ac is turned on seems to go away or we are just getting used to i it while we have to drive it, I have removed the cabin filter there was some trash ( small piece of sponge sealing strip) in there on top of the filter when I removed it filter is clean as it was just changed a few months ago didn't see anything in the blower fan and any of the vents leaving that area, I removed the passenger tire and also the inner fender plastic wheel house covering and found nothing there except the what looks like black rock wool insulation washed it out real good as well ,also removed the hood defroster plastic cover at the bottom of the outside windshield nothing found there except a few leaves boy they made that difficute with all the different plastic connectors that mostly break when being removed, great that I had a kit of fasteners that I bought off amazon yrs ago, I still can smell it fairly strong in the engine compartment right above the alt area as well......man this really sucks, as if it far inside the air vent could get real expensive having someone tear the car apart trying to find it...getting late tonight but will try looking the engineer compartment again tomorrow, have never used or have a flexible electronic scope that might be able to snake up the vents to see if something could be seen,,,,,,,,,any ideas???????????????

Just wondering since you bought ( new or used) your journey is there any dodge or fremont dealerships there or do they get shipped in thur independent dealers or private sellers??, probally need to take it to a electronic repair shop for a complete scan and repair

this method does work BUT it wont show every code or problem like a high dollar scanner will...you can buy the bi directional scanners but will cost you 300-and up depending on your expertise and wanting to learn on how to use...good luck I would check all your grounds on your journey sometimes a lot of corrosion can cause faulty problems ....... sounds like you have a computer problem since you have a wide variety of problems

well you might have an intermittent problem with the abs or wheel speed sensor..even tho it goes off you should get it scanned and NOT at a parts store as there scanners cant read abs codes that might be stored....most repair places can do that but they will probably charge you a fee for doing so...good luck

after finding your fix PLEASE report back for others that might end up with this code and problem good luck

Code P1D83 Dodge Description The P1D83 diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for Dodge vehicles indicates that an implausible engine oil temperature signal has been received by the engine control module (ECM). This means that the ECM has detected a discrepancy between the expected engine oil temperature and the actual reading it is receiving. Engine oil temperature is crucial for maintaining optimal engine performance and preventing damage due to overheating or insufficient lubrication. An inaccurate or faulty signal can lead to incorrect engine management decisions, potentially causing drivability issues and reduced fuel efficiency. Read more: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1d83_dodge.html Common Causes of P1D83 Dodge Faulty engine oil temperature sensor Wiring or connection issues in the oil temperature sensor circuit ECM software or hardware malfunction Engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction Engine oil contamination or degradation affecting temperature readings Read more: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1d83_dodge.html How to Fix P1D83 Dodge Perform a thorough inspection of the engine oil temperature sensor and its wiring harness for any visible damage or corrosion. Test the engine oil temperature sensor using a multimeter to check for proper resistance values. Verify the integrity of the ECM by checking for any stored codes or performing a software update if necessary. Inspect the engine coolant temperature sensor to ensure it is functioning correctly and not contributing to the issue. Replace the faulty engine oil temperature sensor or repair any wiring/connectivity issues as needed. Read more: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1d83_dodge.html