2late4u

Update,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, on the smell and not to jink myself but it is gone or almost gone as of last nite and still gone as of now. I had power washed the underside as well as the engine compartment so maybe what ever was dead or stinking I knocked it loose,as from all I did the other day and didn't see or see anything it had me going crazy don't believe it is the padding oin the inside since I was smelling it on the front right side fender well/engine compartment....SO I believe my problem is gone as of now... thanks for everyone's thoughts and /help

on a side note while I had the right side fender wheel well I tore apart , I examined the strut real good at the top where the bearing is at, all I good see or feel felt tight but there was something like orange cork crumbling around the edges of the strut bearing face/side where it meets the metal I have around 178k on the journey and have had the clunking noise at times,,, the struts seem to be working okay and no oil stains going down them so still okay,,,,,,

got up early this morning so, looked it all over again real good couldn't really find anything out of the ordinary filter is clean and nothing wrong with it,I use an k-n cabin filter and I keep it washed out and clean so no problems there, the strange thing as I still can get a strong wiff of him in the engine department over the alt on the passenger side, I had took the journey done to the quarter car wash yesterday and sprayed the whole engine and the right fender side real good and then later on I removed the right side wheel fender underside as well nothing found there,,,this am I did remove some clips on the firewall below the windshield area about 3-4 push pins and was able to lower the cover about 2 inches and it looked clean but I blew some compressed air from the drivers side towards the passenger side nothing came out but it did seem to have smell a bit,had to give it up for the day as it was getting ready to storm here these morning and coming down hard right now, the smell seems to be less as of now but that might change was looking at a horoscope from harbor freight to snake the vents around $85 for the cheapest but they don't say in the description on how long the cable /camera is? oh well I'll report back on what I find/dont find out later on...take care everyone

the bad smell started yesterday passenger side 2014 crossroad smells like a dead mouse I would assume,I have checked the engine over real good, smell is strongest on the passenger side around the fender and also inside the journey when the ac is turned on seems to go away or we are just getting used to i it while we have to drive it, I have removed the cabin filter there was some trash ( small piece of sponge sealing strip) in there on top of the filter when I removed it filter is clean as it was just changed a few months ago didn't see anything in the blower fan and any of the vents leaving that area, I removed the passenger tire and also the inner fender plastic wheel house covering and found nothing there except the what looks like black rock wool insulation washed it out real good as well ,also removed the hood defroster plastic cover at the bottom of the outside windshield nothing found there except a few leaves boy they made that difficute with all the different plastic connectors that mostly break when being removed, great that I had a kit of fasteners that I bought off amazon yrs ago, I still can smell it fairly strong in the engine compartment right above the alt area as well......man this really sucks, as if it far inside the air vent could get real expensive having someone tear the car apart trying to find it...getting late tonight but will try looking the engineer compartment again tomorrow, have never used or have a flexible electronic scope that might be able to snake up the vents to see if something could be seen,,,,,,,,,any ideas???????????????

Just wondering since you bought ( new or used) your journey is there any dodge or fremont dealerships there or do they get shipped in thur independent dealers or private sellers??, probally need to take it to a electronic repair shop for a complete scan and repair

this method does work BUT it wont show every code or problem like a high dollar scanner will...you can buy the bi directional scanners but will cost you 300-and up depending on your expertise and wanting to learn on how to use...good luck I would check all your grounds on your journey sometimes a lot of corrosion can cause faulty problems ....... sounds like you have a computer problem since you have a wide variety of problems

well you might have an intermittent problem with the abs or wheel speed sensor..even tho it goes off you should get it scanned and NOT at a parts store as there scanners cant read abs codes that might be stored....most repair places can do that but they will probably charge you a fee for doing so...good luck

after finding your fix PLEASE report back for others that might end up with this code and problem good luck

Code P1D83 Dodge Description The P1D83 diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for Dodge vehicles indicates that an implausible engine oil temperature signal has been received by the engine control module (ECM). This means that the ECM has detected a discrepancy between the expected engine oil temperature and the actual reading it is receiving. Engine oil temperature is crucial for maintaining optimal engine performance and preventing damage due to overheating or insufficient lubrication. An inaccurate or faulty signal can lead to incorrect engine management decisions, potentially causing drivability issues and reduced fuel efficiency. Read more: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1d83_dodge.html Common Causes of P1D83 Dodge Faulty engine oil temperature sensor Wiring or connection issues in the oil temperature sensor circuit ECM software or hardware malfunction Engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction Engine oil contamination or degradation affecting temperature readings Read more: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1d83_dodge.html How to Fix P1D83 Dodge Perform a thorough inspection of the engine oil temperature sensor and its wiring harness for any visible damage or corrosion. Test the engine oil temperature sensor using a multimeter to check for proper resistance values. Verify the integrity of the ECM by checking for any stored codes or performing a software update if necessary. Inspect the engine coolant temperature sensor to ensure it is functioning correctly and not contributing to the issue. Replace the faulty engine oil temperature sensor or repair any wiring/connectivity issues as needed. Read more: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1d83_dodge.html

thanks for reporting back on what fixed your problem

had a caravan yrs ago that had a clunk when going over bumps and at 32k I was home on a trip getting ready to leave again and got to checking on the front end and seen one of the bushings on the sway bar had worked its way out of the bracket that held it(I don't think it was ever tightened up at the factory as well) but it was a Sunday afternoon and everything was closed so I just got it put back in the bracket and tightened it up as tight as I could it really wasn't easy to do but got it done and never had any more noise from it,,,,,that said it was a much louder thunk/clunk than what I sometimes get from my journey so I don't think that is your problem

welcome to the group ,,,most journeys suffer from this condition mostly caused by the upper strut bearing making the noise.. could be some other problems but check out the forum post for more info..usually you should replaced both struts to maintain proper conditions if possible have your eng and trans mounts checked for wear as well

so when do you hear the noise ona flat road or going over bumps like a speed bump or a pot hole, dodge journeys have a problem with the OEM strut top bearing mounts causing a rattle or clunk even going slow over a speed bump or turning a tight corner,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,what kind of struts were you replacing with,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,OEM is more expensive but better quality as well,,,,,your problem must be something else other than struts if they have been replaced with different sets as well,,have your mech check out all the body mounts as well there are on each side that are near the edge off their body around 1 foot in from the side it is a rubber mount spray that with a quality silicone spray and also spray your sway bar mounts as well that will quiet mine down for a long time after spraying them

first off you can buy the tpm sensor off amazon,don't use the dealership to replace the tpm sensor,,,most tire store can replace them for you a lot cheaper,,I had discount tire replaced all 4 of them on my tires at one time around 2 yrs ago for around$350 if I remember correctly,,,,,,and NO the tpm batteries do not recharge themselves at any time.........and actually if you are short on money it wont hurt to NOT fix this as of now......also what dealership CDJ dealership are you referring to is it in Cullman Al? just wondering as that is the dealership I use as well

first off have you had any of the tpm in the tire replaced? if not then your journey is at the age that they need to be replaced due to the battery going bad had to have my 2014 replaced about 2 yrs ago, I would advise to just change all 4 of them out at one time, yes more expensive but just get it over with instead of each one going out at different times...other possbi;lies are bad hub bearings,yes its possible they could have damage the tpm wires,good luck and please report back on what you find out for others to learn from.also when your dealer serviced your tires and TPMS that is just the shardervale in the stem NOT the battery and if they had replaced the battery they have to replace the whole tpm inside the tire and they would charge you for it which would cost at the dealership around $50-75 each

No

I agree change out the pump while you are there as it will just be easier.....your org post talks about water coming out of that hole and it sounds like it might have been a lot since you started all your part replacement...like the video says a little might be okay BUT if it was causing you a lot of concern as it must for you to do all these repairs then it needs to be replaced

as I said I would replace the coolant temp sensor /temp sensor also check the wiring as well for broken or corroded connections as well

https://youtu.be/KE9ncd_e5WM?feature=shared here is another video at the end he talks about false readings.........also have YOU had the vehicle scanned for codes very important as well...

cheap and easy part to replace

190 up to 220 down to <100 back up to 210 down to 199 to 245. this is to big of a change for just fans kicking on and ac change,, at 245 he would be overheating his engine IF it really was going that high , either loose connection at his temp sensor or a bad one would be my guess

so you have the 2.4 eng I guess, sounds like you have changed a good bit of things, since the temp is all over the place I would replace the TEMP SENSOR and also make sure all the connections are tight and clean,,and by the fan is working comment you mean the fan in the engine compartment and not the ac fan I assume.Please report back on what ever fixes your problem for others to learn from.....good luck

replace your water pump