my neighbor mentioned as I drove past him that my journey seemed to have a whine that he was hearing, it was real cold that morning and I had just started it and took off as well I had noticed it before but it goes away after a few minutes f warming up,,3.6 eng here with 152 k on the clock

12 minutes ago, wade31685 said:

It has always done it but it was much milder and not as often. Recently it has been much more noticeable and harsher. The plugs were Autolite platinum plugs. These I bought from Autozone which was what they had as the recommended part as well. Do you think the coil packs could have anything to do with it? I replaced them along with the plugs a few months ago. Also would those issues throw a fault code?

why did you replace the coil packs,just a waste of $$$ unless you were having a problem with them,,they are either good or bad.....

I would buy a new set of pugs and install these before I would do anything else

NGK V-Power Nickel Plug Number ZFR5F-11 Spark Plug - 2262

 the electrode on these are thicker then on the extended range spark plugs but other makers they should be replaced every 30 k you will have problems with the more expensive plugs you can buy these at o'reillys for around $4.69 each or off Amazon for around 4 for $ 15.77...STICK with the NGK brand as well

1 hour ago, 5rebel9 said:

Well the '14 is still on my bad list. It just seems to want constant attention. Now the rear hatch won't open from the outside handle and it's 30* and windy out and no shelter to put it inside to work on!. So this car wants me to fix it and come down with pneumonia just before Christmas!!!

 I will post up just what I find as the culprit, I suspect broken wire in the body to hatch rubber boot or the cable from handle to latch.

If things didn't go wrong, life would be just too boring to enjoy

3 hours ago, Mcgusto82 said:

when i swap the tires from front to back, the "front tire" reads fine, and the rear tire does not read in the front position.  this indicates the battery are fine.  

TPM module  NOT the TIPM module    two totally different  modules  and    NO they are not GOOD ,,,,,,,  the tpms module is remembering the last position and giving false readings, I just went Thru what you are experiencing  6 months ago on my 2014 crossroad   was about to give up on it and not bother to fix it and the wife wasn't happy with that,  so I went to my tire shop and they messed with it a while and then said well the batteries are going bad and I had them replaced cost me around $300 parts and labor for 4 new sensors if I remember correctly,,,, and THAT fixed my problem,,,the TPM module is in your rear left wheel well above the top of the tire well

no,, but it happens to all different car manufacturers even the imports more often I read where they used soybean oil in the wire insulation that can draw the mice, first iv ever heard of this happening to a journey,  my grandsons altima had problems with mice in his engine compartment they did around 250 of damage.

could be the wiring going Thur the black rubber sleeve ast the upper rear hatch or the actual camera located in the hatch back

13 hours ago, MrCods said:

 

Hi and thanks for the info.

Yes the fuel gauge works as does the fuel light when I am running out of fuel. It is only the kms until empty that does not work.

I agree with the nobody else has the problem as I really have looked absolutely everywhere with no luck (someone has to be the first I suppose)

I cant understand why Dodge didnt just put a regular odometer on the dash like every other car in Australia but I digress, It really does not bother me I just wanted everything to work as it should.

I will get around to disconnecting the power one day (yes it has the battery disconnect as you describe.)

Thanks again

Now on to the other issue I have

are you saying you don't have  a regular speedo that shows you how fast your going? my distance to empty only shows in the info section.

First off welcome to the group .............so does your gas gage work when you fill it up from empty? I assume you are talking about the info telling you what you have left before running out ( distance till empty)....if your fuel tank is full and the gas gage is saying empty then replacing the fuel pump/level float  in your tank would be the answer unless you have some bad wiring somewhere between the tank causing the problem,,,if its just the distance till empty info sensor then I believe you are out of luck as your journey is at least 14 yrs old   and I have never heard anyone else complain of this problem...good luck and please report back on what ever you find out to your problem for others to learn from it....You could try to do a reset by removing the cables from the battery post I am not sure if yours has the battery disconnect near the upper firewall that we have on the newer journey but let it stay disconnected for around 20 minutes or so and then reconnect...does the same thing as if you are rebooting your computer might help and doesn't cost anything

well went to use the air a little bit today cold on the drivers side and hot on the passenger side no matter when moving from the reg vents to the floor or into the def mode still cold on drivers side and hot on passenger side, so I let down the glove box and then also moved the padded panel under the glove box so I could see better and the blend door wasn't moving at all so I wiggled the electrical connector a bit and also tapped on the blend door with a long screwdriver and then it started working again,,now this was the small blend door on the left side of the glove box and towards the back NOT the big vanilla color wheel attached to a different blend door,, the one I was working on controls JUST the heat or ac for the passenger side and the controls for the vents do NOT make it move,so don't get that confused in your mind I added a small video that I found on the web...............

thanks for replying back on what solved your problem for others to learn from

On 6/14/2023 at 9:05 PM, John/Horace said:

Curious about rear upper control arms $1,200. Was that all three rear components lower lateral link, trailing arm and lower lateral arm. And alignment. Or was strut also included. Mopar suspension stuff is pricy. 

the Mopar upper links are non adj,,,I went with 2 upper lateral links adj and a 4 wheel alignment and this was yrs ago and cost me between 350-400

5 hours ago, John/Horace said:

Even grinding off paint to get to bare metal. Then fine film of dielectric grease can sometimes fix flaky ground issues. Salt belt cars are more prone to these kind of problems. I went through this with a few Hyundai vehicles, bad strut tower grounds.

I didn't grind any paint off the studs but I did  cleaned it real good with a wire brush and I live in Alabama with  almost no salt problems like most experience ,I even ran a separate ground from the negative battery jump points to the wires and ground stud and that didn't make any difference as well, It turned off cold again today around 55 degrees so I didn't mess with it but I did take it to my most trusted mechanic one  that I only  will use and showed and explained everything that has went on and what I had done  and was asking if it would be worth cutting off the 2 ground lugs connectors and maybe a couple of inches of wire   off the wires and reattach new ones, and,his advise to me was to leave it alone, as he said most times when it has the  internal problem  failure code then it is the unit going bad even if it is just intermittent and since it will  be covered under my warranty if we start messing with it they might try to deny my warranty claim on the repair that is  IF they ever get a replacement part,so the only thing I don't like is the cruise control not working it isn't a serious problem to me, just frustrating...........BUT I still have that nagging feeling that it is due to the ground wires are involved....

well after taking another look at your picture you are showing the ground points of the passenger side so I went and moved mine over to that stud as you did still no difference and as you had said about the recall on those wires there I had mine done as well so I flipped the wires so they went on backwards from the original position of them and then checked my warning lights and they were out, so I took it for a drive and then about 1 mile down the road the lights came on again, hmm so I went back home and took them off and wiggle the wires and such and then re-tightened them down and after doing this a couple of times the lights were off again but then came on after driving a mile or two.it makes me want to strip the wires back as each as 2 wires coming together and maybe they might have some corrosion in there causing intermittent connection plus the coating from the recall looks kind of sketchy as well.

Have the same code and have been waiting on the abs unit to come back in stock  at the dealership for over a yr, ( waiting on them as I have the max warranty) they say they may get them in Feb 2024 anyways it started working again this summer but when it turned off cold this fall it the lights came back on and the abs still not working ,, really didn't expect this to work but is easy to get to so I tried it and nope its still not working and the warning lights are still on, my stepson has a scanner and I'll have him bring it over this weekend and clear the codes to see if that helps but I don't have any real hope it will,but will repost if it does

check your return hose from the coolant jug to the rad to see if any small cracks/loose connections that might not leak but wont keep suction action of coolant back to the rad

check out you tube for the quick and easy way to replace the heater core from the drivers side,,,sounds like you have a blend door problem and there are at least 3 of them checkout YouTube as well on them, since you are getting good heat at times then it has to be the blend doors giving you the problem..good luck and please report back on what you find to be your answer to your problem for others to learn from

44 minutes ago, Rina5677 said:

I got a used (not refurbished) TIPM for $100. Did a soft reset via YouTube after install. Worked great! I have door lock/unlock, remote start, a rear hatch that opens. Thank goodness! 

thanks for coming back and posting your experience/solution... that is what makes a forum work

yes it could be possible after all it's a 12 yr old car,,, do a complete flush of the system then add new coolant  and I would change out the thermostat as well,,which eng do you have? 3.6 is real easy and make sure you bleed the air out of the system as well. good luck

any codes that you know of,, you can check by pushing the start button 3 full cycles from off to on for any codes there are videos on YouTube to show how to do it of courses it doesn't show all the codes that could be there.Please report back on what you find out

well I see the whole assy listed on eBay kind of pricey ,might want to check there or check with your local dealership for the correct answer

which eng would be helpful?

so what is the journey doing as of now? , we need a lot more info?,,overheating? what is ity doing?

you will need a magnetic spark plug socket OR use any deep well socket and then a telescopic magnet to lift the plug out of the hole and then use a piece of plastic tuning to attach to the tip of the plug to lower it into the opining, or I did see a video on sticking the plug into the coil and then use that to lower it into the opening or just splurge on buying the proper magnetic socket, easy to do good luck

On 11/19/2023 at 5:05 PM, v_i_r_u_s said:

It's a 2.4L engine & driven moderately (Around 1200-1400km/Month). I am planning to change the Spark Plugs this week and also transmission service.
In general it seems like the 2.4L engine is under powered. Specially in uphill the RPM goes over 4-6 when I accelerate to 60+KPH.

Any recommendation for Spark Plugs?

Thanks again for the response