2late4u

12 minutes ago, Kdmartel said:

This guy works on a lot of journeys there was 4 others parked out front when I went to do the TB relearn and ya woulda been ALLLOOOT. more expensive cause he didn't charge me for the relearn or the further diag. Dealership wanted $200 just to diag prior to even doing a relearn which would have been another 190$ and then they'd wanna keep it to do the PCM which would be 1200$ and instead it's gonna cost me $350 

 

and yet it still isn't fixed another lost day of work and throwing more parts at it,  just saying sometimes the ceap ends up costing more in the long run . not trying to argue hope everything turns out great for you,take care

Sure it would be more expensive but in the long run I believe I would take it to a dodge dealership as they have more knowledge on these vehicles small shops are just guessing most of the time.good luck

36 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:

Nice work for such an upgrade AND to make such an informative video.....all above my work grade level....LOL

I don't even use my radio and also the Bluetooth as well...just old school I guess

3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

UPDATE

I finally found at reasonable cost fog light bulbs for the '14. 

Phillips PSX24W/CVPB1 @$16 each thru rockauto. SUPPOSED to be brighter, but with disclaimer of possible shorter lifespan.

I had to order rear rotors and pads for my Buick and the bulbs were at the same location for shipment, so I got them. Parts were from Syracuse,NY and ordered Friday morning and were delivered FEDEX ground this morning. Fastest processing and delivery I've seen yet! Yes the city of origin was only about 3.5 hours away.

Will install on the first warmer DECENT weather day we get here, been raining and cold for 4 days and next week does not look much better! 😞AND the Buick brakes have the priority to get done!

78 here today in alabamaaaaaaaa

15 minutes ago, RealFloopyGuy said:

How did it work out?

evidently not good as he never responded back, looked like a spammer

act 1589   front    amazon price $72.89...............act 5916 rear $61.49

https://akebonobrakes.mypartfinder.com/............is the OEM supplier for dodge and the only pads I will use I order them off amazon for the best price....also replace your rotors as well

5 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

WELL.... Not ready today and says the RF also needs  the ball joint replaced. Cam and rockers done, but have to do the filter unit and install the intakes. Waiting for him to call me back as when I called enquiring, said it'd been a bad day with lots of interruptions. 

   I will report results when the car is done and back home.

It's great you have a friend that helps you out on the labor cost....

12 hours ago, Delia said:

We have replaced the coolant thermostat three times now, and now we are being told thermostat housing melted to block, after repair found cylinder head gasket is excessively blown. Found coolant purges from cooling system while running due to exhaust gasses leaking into cooling system. Would this be caused due the thermostat not doing what it's supposed to be doing in the first place. And now it's going to cause thousands of dollars to fix my car. 

lkq is a big used part /engine supplier

1 hour ago, Kdmartel said:

So we are back to OEM and the rich running persisted. Code is p0172 ( bank 1 ) starting to wonder it is MAP sensor or Bank 1 02 sensor 😕 everything runs stable till it starts to warm up then the fluctuating RPMs start to happen about 5-6 mins after starting. 

what eng do you have  2,4 or 3.6?

2 hours ago, larryl said:

196000 miles and almost 7000 hrs on my 3.6 2013 bought new original coils and injectors- plugs have been changed 3x with OEM's at 50-100 and 150000 miles hard to beat OEM on these engines

3.6 eng and 156 k on my 2014 as of now I had the plugs changed at the dealership at 100k and I had the service guy show me the old plugs and they still looked great condition

7 hours ago, Kdmartel said:

Figure almost 10 years ( 3900 hours) of running a fresh set wouldn't hurt 

well you didn't use oem and there are a lot of junk aftermarket parts being sold these days, but they shouldn't be your problem , from what you have wrote it would be something you did during the reassembly since you didn't infer a problem before doing this work 

1 post wonder

as 5rebel9 posted above IF it hasn't been to long from the acc/repair get the body shop to check it out but as been said probally a wire at the door jamb is mostly the culprit or the door handle

On 3/20/2024 at 2:18 PM, bynarie said:

Occasionally the power windows seem to stop working for a day or so but then they will start working again. What happens is that the windows will not go up or down, but you will hear the clicking noise like they are trying to move.. All 4 windows are affected. All 4 switches stop working at the same time and then start working again at the same time. So I'm guessing its not a motor issue. But is there any 1 component that would affect all 4 windows and switches at the same time? Thanks

question ,,,,is it each window doing it with their door  button? or are you saying it is happening from the drivers door control buttons? there has been a wiring problem that is in the lower drivers door jamb that the wires are breaking / or shorting out 

just keep a close on it and keep it filled till you fix it. might last you a long time

should have just used a small black screw, it hides better that was the same spot I put mine as well,,,,LOL

1 hour ago, khnitz said:

I completed the maintenance work over the last couple of days and the 300+ mile drive back to IL went without a hitch.  I average 23.3 mpg at, let's just say *quick* speeds, (according to the Fuel Economy reading on the IC) on the last 200 miles - I reset it after my last fill-up.  That was about 2mpg better than I saw on the drive from IL to MI before all the work.  Granted, that's a small sample size for comparison.

 

Here are some pictures of what was done...

 

Old vs. New air filter.  I couldn't read the make of the old (original??) air filter, but the new one is an AC Delco.  I like the additional pleats vs the old one.

 

In looking at how-to videos on removing the upper intake manifold to access the spark plugs, the ones I found talk about completely removing the rear intake bellow (somewhat under the cowl, between the throttle body and the upper intake manifold) first, and having to remove coolant hoses, etc. to make room to slide it out.  I actually found it easier to move that bellows off of the TB and move it just a little back to access that last upper intake manifold bolt that is hidden by it, and then remove the upper intake manifold first.  Then that bellow comes out easily and completes access spark plugs on the rear cylinder bank.

 

The spark plugs were the OE Champion, and I used NGK Iridiums as replacements.  Here are the old plugs, and a comparison of an old and new plug.

 

I also rotated the tires and bled the brakes.  While bleeding the brakes, I noticed the rear brake pads were getting low, so I went ahead and changed them.

 

While I had the upper intake manifold off, I took a picture down of the back of the intake valves.  They look pretty good/clean.  Again, my in-laws' Journey had ~57k miles on it at this point.

 

I also removed the platform running boards they had on there (they are hurting, more than helping, access at this point of their mobility).

 

Let's see, what else...I topped off the coolant and power steering fluids.  Oh, and I replaced the serpentine belt, its tensioner and idler pulley, as well - with the car being 10yrs old and the belt being original, it was just a preventive measure at this mileage.

 

Another item - the lower seat side trim piece on the passenger side had been broken loose from repeated entry/exit to the seat.  I found a way to use a hole on the seat frame and a trim panel clip to drill a 5/16" hole and secure that trim piece.  Aside from having to live with the appearance of the trim clip, it holds that plastic piece securely and works for us.  I'll get a picture of that later today and post it.

the ones on the passenger side break real easy, I had one replaced under warranty and then it broke again so I just held it in place and drilled a small hole thru the plastic trim and also the metal bracket behind it and then used a small black screw worked so good I did the drivers side even though it hadn't broke yet

check out you tube for videos on this answer

he didnt report back on whatever he found, so  a 2 post wonder that doesn't help anyone

LOL love this guy.........

quit worrying about what others tell you about their problems/solution,,, get it checked with a high quality scanner for codes, does seem to be a problem that cleaning the throttle body doesn't usually  fix it, get an OEM unit with new gaskets if you want to throw parts at it OR have a dealership diagnose the problem and LET them fix it yes more expensive but probably cheaper in  the long run

15 hours ago, Mike T said:

I have a red flashing lightning bolt and traction control light coming on and losing throttle.  No check engine light no codes.  First traction control light comes on then the lightning bolt always in that order.  Please help

well it could be several problems ,bad throttle body or dirty, or could be a accelerator pedal sensor going bad,or many other things such as wire shorting out,,,you might start with cleaning the throttle body unit..check out YouTube videos more more info on how to do it or take it to a garage and let them check it out...good luck I am sure others will chime in soon maybe with more help........P.S. when asking for help it would be great if you gave us more info like which engine you have and the mileage of the journey and what kind of service has it rec over its lifetime

17 hours ago, WiscoJourney19 said:

My mom’s 2019 Journey with the 2.4L four cylinder motor will randomly not start. The motor will crank and crank but will not start. After a half hour of trying it will usually start and be fine for a while. This started shortly after I replaced the injectors (hard start prior) and has happen once or twice a month for the last 6 months or so. We have tried jumping it but that hasn’t worked in the past. Recently, this issue has become more frequent and takes longer for it to start again. My mom was stranded for an hour and a half today and ended up with a dead battery. When we jump started the car it fired right up. I have done a lot of digging and have found nothing on this topic. When we brought it to the repair shop, this issue wouldn’t recreate itself so they were left with no ideas. No codes are being thrown. I am thinking this is a fuel filter or fuel pump issue. Am I right in thinking those are both in the fuel tank? I am desperate to find a solution as no one has been able to help at this point. Thanks in advance. 

yes the fuel filter and pump are both inside the tank and are not serviceable, very seldom with a fuel filter plugging up these days, BUT you might have low fuel pressure from the fuel pump but would need some gages to check that and if it is interment almost impossible to catch

also when it is not starting try moving the gear selector to neutral as some have mentioned problems with that.... I assume the grounds at the engine have been checked to make sure they are in good shape,