2late4u

47 minutes ago, ssteffen said:

Thank you!!! I didn't think of that. I'll call tomorrow 

after i googled it it seems they did offer them on 2017 journeys not much info on them BUT they were an option probally more than you will want to find and buy but that is up to you ,,,,good luck and let us know what you do 

1 hour ago, ssteffen said:

i was looking in my user manual and it said "if equipped" so i think some do.. lol.  I just don't know what years 

call your local dodge  dealership and give them your info and see if they have a part number for the booster seat and if so start googling that number

7 hours ago, x_orange90_x said:

3.6L. I previously put Champions in but my buddy laughed when he pulled one out. I replaced them with NGK per his recommendation. I checked the gaps and they were all correct. 

 

I did add an octane booster and 5 gallons of premium the night I started having issues in hopes of "sprucing" up the alleged bad gas. When I got down to about 1/4 tank I put in a water remover. 

 

If it really is bad gas wouldn't I have issues with ALL cylinders, all the time?

i was just going by what you said i just put in 30 gas and then it started misfiring,, i would concentrate on bad gas before throwing money at parts... like i said add some gas treatments for water in the gas and try to run it all out and then add some injector cleaner as well i like using chevron brand myself, and like others have said switch the injector/coil to a different plug to see if the code changes of course on a 3.6 this involves a lot of work to check but would be the cheapest way to start,,, and as tsteves5 mentioned the new coil could be bad ...i have been watching a lot of you tube mechanics i follow and almost all of them have been saying lately to stay away from amazon ebay and all mail order part suppliers due to cheap chinese junk parts

and now for the rest of the story? LOL

I would def remove as much fuel as possible/and or add a dry gas additive to help before i would throw any expensive parts at your journey,,, i am assuming you have the 2.4 eng,might not hurt to throw in some new plugs as well since they are easy and cheap but if you do only use the OEM plugs..good luck and hope it was only some bad gas...........sorry just seen where you said you did just replace the plugs.oh well

On 3/9/2024 at 3:20 PM, 5rebel9 said:

Most aftermarket complete struts are "one size fits all", the ride height difference is from the SPRING rating and not the strut. 

IF you just installed them, give it a couple weeks to "settle in" as the ride height will probably lower down some. 

The Traction control light and loss of cruise is from a damaged wheel speed sensor. Auto parts stores will pull codes for free{resist buying needed parts from them...unless price is good},to tell you what specific corner the problem is on.

I haven't found any part stores ( orileys,advance auto, autozone) around me that can check abs codes with their meters. the mid grade ($150-200) harbor freight meters have the capacity to check them

thanks for replying back for others to see if they need the help

I noticed the the marked site read is not functioning since the reformation of the site

THIS is a common problem when people ask for help and then when they get the problem fixed they usually never come back to post the fix for the problem thus leaving others wondering on what to try,please repost when you find your problem solution

just connect the 1 hoses that deliver the hot coolant to the core with the return hose to the rad / engine from the heater core, i am sure you can google it or even better check on you tube for more info and videos 

15 hours ago, Kubiackalpha said:

My GF has a 2016 journey crossroad, 4cyl, FWD.  These Fiat Freemonts have tons of issues, I am finding out.  A constant issue with the AC/Heater blower (it is not the fan going bad) has to have the relay constantly reset.  If a tire is slightly low, you go into a "limp home mode" and makes you think there is a bigger issue than just a few pounds of air.  NOW, the traction control has been coming on randomly.  While driving.  It does not shut off unless you turn the entire car off.  THEN, it may come on again while driving.  NOT a  great thing to happen if driving in Tulsa, Ok.  I have a scan tool and will be getting at that in the morning.  What are some things for the 2016 I can look for?  My scantool gives me a pretty good break down of likely to least likely.  But, sometimes, it is way off base.  What are some common things for this year and model?

a tire with a few pounds low will not put your journey into limp mode,sounds like you might  have an electrical problem,also you could be having a problem with a wheel speed sensor. or maybe a wheel bearing going had,, hence the traction light

On 7/5/2023 at 9:36 PM, moe mclay said:

Can this be why my cars overheating?

 

Blend doors cannot make your journey overheat, 

welcome to the group,,,,,,,,,, ALL the connections including the battery cables and also at the alternator connections as well and the  ground cables and straps to the frame and starter,

2 hours ago, johnvosh said:

Ya, sorry, I didn't realize that they had mounted the oil filter housing and cooler in the engine valley, what a dumb location.... And I'm guessing the fluid we did see was probably from that. It is just weird that the top of the engine really didn't look wet, but it is something we could of missed as well.

I just had mine replaced not long ago i just used a led flashlight and shined it down the side of the oil filter /cooler and you will see oil pooling at the base of the filter container IF that is your problem, i had been watching mine for a while as i have around 150 k on mine 2014, had it replaced at the dealership since i had a warranty on my journey...actually this would be a cheaper and easier repair than the trans IF this your problem, some of your pitures do look like trasns oil tho,,, take care

this guy has a lot of good videos on dodge engines ....

1 hour ago, johnvosh said:

Yup am sure this one is a tranny fluid leak. In the Journey the engine filter housing is on the passenger side and the transmission is on the drivers side. But when we were under the vehicle, I did notice quit a bit of oil on the AC compressor so am guessing that it will need to be fixed as well. Looking at Rock auto, Doorman has an all aluminum housing/oil cooler for CAD $335 because of course they don't have any gaskets in stock.

i agree with your [description of where the oil filter loc and the tranny loc what i was saying that when it does leak enough it, WILL drip on the drivers side downwards, it has been reported here a lot..just thought id throw that out as a possibility,, hope you get the leak fixed with the least amount of trouble and $$,good luck   I have seen some discussion on the internet about whether to use the alum one or go OEM, both good and bad reasons

Just something to check but are you sure its trans fluid, as the 3.6 engine when the oil cooler starts leaking it comes down the drivers side of the engine when it gets bad enough, a led light shining down along side of the oil cap will tell you if you have any leaking of oil out of the bottom of the oil filter /oil cooler,,good luck 

13 hours ago, Smonty said:

Yes ‘14, didn’t realize I accidentally put ‘15 on the post. The post says the mileage is about 119,000.
 

It’s a 3.7 V6

 

Standard maintenance. I only bought it about a year and half ago. Oil change every 10,000 miles. Tuneup every 6 months. It’s gotten a new battery within the last year. I use it for rideshare so it gets a lot of drive time/miles. 
 

I tried google without much luck. Just giving simple things like check the battery, oil, transmission fluid….all are good. Can’t even find anyone who has referenced a similar issue or having the P0600 code.

 Welcome to the group...... when asking about a problem we need all the info on what you drive and all the problems with what things you have done to it to be able to even guess what might be wrong.....there is no 3.7 there is a 3.6 so who is changing the spark plugs every 6 months? they are good for 100k and it takes a considerable amount of time to even get to them. also are you using the OEM plugs ? . just saying.. oil changes should be around  every 7 k with just regular driving ,heavy use driving should be done even sooner,, what about the trans service has any been done? and dont forget the awd maintenance and coolant services. YOUR best option is to have it serviced when the light is on at a dodge dealership to see the code, they would have the best info on what they think is wrong and might end up cheaper than unloading the  parts cannon on your journey. please report back on what you find out is your problem for others to learn from it

Okay.....................check you tube or read your manual on how to reset it and or read thur the forum on how to rest it and or fix it if the plastic clips are broken

11 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

My parents use those type hoses due to their convenience of use. I have used them and am not impressed with flow rate to really blast due to small ID of the hose. Great to water the flowers and such or use to GENTLE RINSE a car, BUT I need to blast dirt out of the wheel wells and undersides of vehicles . I live in dairy farm country, tractors and farm equipment, along with tractor trailers of maure run the roads constantly and leave a BIG MESS on the roads. Heaven forbid you round a bend in the road and run right up to the back of such for all the "slurry" they fling off! 

 

   Thanks for the recommendation just the same .

not sure which hose you are talking about but the brand i am using is 75 foot  and is the same dia ( 5/8-3/4) as most hard hose and delivers the same amount of water to the sprayer as well with full force it is 5/8 or bigger, i use it on my pressure washer as well, ( i did fill a 5 gal bucket of water thur both of my hoses old hard hose and the Zero G , and both filled the bucket in the same amount of time that is permissible to use with the pressure washer req need of water) now i wouldn't want to use it on your dairy farm due to the fabric cloth covering but then that would def be a different grade of water hose for that purpose use, but for around a house and garage it has held up great i have reg version of it that is black covered that i have had for over 5 yrs with no problems and then the contractor brand version that is heavy grade which is 75 ft for 4 years and both work for cleaning the town house brick which i use to spray the siding off all the way to the top of the peak of the roof, so around 25 foot with just a reg hose sprayer from walmart.

2009 had a 3.5 engine, so what temp is it going to ? are the fans coming on? are you using coolant mixed right? sounds like you need to return too who ever changed your engine out before you overheat it

41 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:

 

Well...

   I'm getting older now, so had my winter work coat on and LONG trousers! At least NO gloves, hat and boots! What a chore though to get out the 100' water hose to reach the cars in the driveway and not sink into the ground by washing them in the yard closer to the water faucet! The ground is pretty "mushy" as it is.

 

To be honest, I long to return to coastal North Carolina for the weather there! Been wanting that since 1983 ! This year has been an easy snow season here, but the winds and COLD temps have not changed any. I really miss the New Bern and MCAS Cherry Point area I served there for 4 years. Wife says NO due to hurricanes and venomous snakes that are prevalent in that area. BUT loves to vacation there {when we can get time and money} 

I have switched to the fabric hose by Zero G  they have a contractors grade hose and it is great only thing I don't like about it is that it is florissant green and warranted for 7 yrs Lowes sells them as well as most other stores they say they don't kink but thats B.S. but light weight and then rolls up easy after shutting off the water they come in either 75 or 100 ft

I have a 2014 and I have changed out the battery 3 times and I  never had to clear any codes,maybe I am just lucky

welcome to the group, so I assume you have installed a new battery group 86? you might need to disconnect the power battery cable and let it set fro 15-20 minutes to do a reset on your journeys computer... also make sure all your connections at the battery are tight and clean as well as the connections up top at the jump points, other than that that's all I would advise to do first,,,and with today's electronics in the cars I wont jump anyone off if I don't half to and yes my son or daughter would be the only exceptions...also have you replaced the fob batteries as well? since I just reread your post about the fob not being detected,those batteries wear out as well more than you think,,,,hope you get it going...also have you had it scanned for codes? you tube can show you how to do the self check by cycling the on button 3 times real fast

6 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

Lots of laughs! Such weather for good thorough cleaning!

Had 2 days last week to be worth a quick but cool wash of the '14 and '13, NO interior cleaning or such as it was only in the mid 40's ! At least they look "presentable" from a distance. 

WINTER seems to finally making itself known here around me, but still not a lot of snow, just enough to say yes it snowed.

WAS AROUND 62 ON A SUNNY DAY HERE