2late4u

i was thinking of unhooking the connector and check it out but was watching a video on it and they mentioned you might have to relearn the module after doing that so not sure if i want to try unhooking it ...seems simple enough and not hard to get to tho...as ai said i have 3 of the tires reading okay just the one with the 3 dots inop but then i moved that tire to the other side and the bad reading still stayed in the same spot and it should have moved if it was the sensor so that makes me believe it might be the module gone bad

i have never replace a cv axle on our journey but have on caravan and yes the trans fluid is what you have lost .. i would assume you couldn't have lost much as i never worried about it before on our caravan, hard to tell you how much to replace since we dont have dip sticks no more ,you can buy a test dip stick from the part stores or go on you tube and there are videos on how to mark your oil dipstick to match up to where the trans oil level should be i marked mine like the video said to do and then i checked the level in my trans and it was exactly where i marked it to be

any solutions to the tpms problem....my left rear is showing the three dots and says service, and was going to have discount tire replace all 4 since the journey is going on 9 yrs pld but after reading this post i decided to switch the right to the left and them took it for a drive and also aired them both up to almost 40 pi and expedited the bad 3 dot reading to jump to the other side but it didnt even after a 20 mile drive so makes me wonder if it is the tpm module in the left rear wheel well? i do have the max warranty with dodge so i could take it in to them which would be more expensive on replacing all 4 tpms but id its the module then would be cheaper than aftermarket service and parts... I am not in a big hurry as since its the psi info isn't the biggest worry i have just an aggravation .........................strange thing tho my abs module is on backorder thur the dodge dealership for around 6 months now ( internal fault is what they say) but every time ( three times so far) i have the wheels rotated or the journey lifted right after doing that my abs lights and traction control and brake lights have went off and the cruise would start working again for around 1 day then they all come back on....makes me wonder if lifting the journey or whatever is maybe uncovering a wire shorted out or whatever causing the abs to work again but then after a short time back down on the ground it shorts out again or makes the abs inop??????doesn't seem like if it was the abs module that is supposedly bad would be on again off again simply by lifting the frame and setting it back down again

ell you asked over the internet for a guess on what the problem could be, a solid connection of electrical connections could cause your problem as i said it is just an idea to have it checked after all its over 20 yrs old... loose wires or CLEAN GROUND connections could be another possible cause as well, so many possibility for your problems, even a bad battery or alt NOT suppling the correct voltage to the cluster.....By the way welcome to the group

one guess is you could have some corrosion problems under the the tipm or it is going bad...................... What are the symptoms of a bad TIPM module? The symptoms of a failing TIPM can vary depending on the vehicle. On one car, it might be an inoperative horn or wipers. For other cars, it might be a no-start condition and erratic instrument cluster operation. A failure can be seen by a no crank condition.

welcome to the group

just got it replaced with a new tire at Discount Tire, cost $39.for the new tire warranty and install,got home and removed all 4 tires and used this decal removal rubber wheel from amazon TCP Global Rubber Eraser Wheel with Drill Adapter - Adhesive Remover Tool, Removes Vinyl Decals, Pinstripes, Stripes, Stickers, Tape, Emblems, Graphics Removal on Autos Cars Trucks RV's Signs ( $9.99) to remove the old glued on wheel weights paper and other stuff on the back side and then cleaned them up with a magic eraser as well. looking great then reinstalled the tires back onto the journey and used some tire shine and she is ready to head off to Biloxi in a few days to make out fortune at the casnios...........LOL.or else to build up the tax base for the poor Mississippi. kids

first off before unloading the parts cannon HAVE you had the battery load checked at the local part store to make sure it isn't going??? ,or bad even fairly new batteries can go bad, that is why they give youa warranty, also have them check your alt to make sure it is putting out the correct amps...also check to make sure nothing is plugged into any of the power outlet other than the one in the dash, as all the others stay hot all the time.. Welcome to the group.... and also there is a lot of info in the forum postings from the bluetooth module going bad, to door latches accidentally turning the lights on during the nights, and many other crazy options ...start with the cheapest and get the battery and alt checked its FREEEEEEE

Public service announcement here,,,, You might want to check the air psi in your spare tire and also the stem is kinda short hard to get the air chuck onto it,,,long story made short ,i had a flat but was lucky it was at the house when i found it, bad part it was a sidewall damage so it cant be plugged till i get to the discount tire shop monday morning at least i do have the tire warranty for road hazard so all i will owe is the new warranty plus mounting and balance.... but if it had happened down the street, i would have had my little air pump but the spare is 60 psi and it was flat,so you all might want to check your spare as well.first time in 8-9 yrs that i actually had to use the spare tire

yes that is a good price, also all dodge dealerships charge different labor rates for the same parts and labor so it is usually a good idea to check around if price is real important to you, but a cheap price with bad attitudes from the dealership can make a difference in who you use...also at 100k you also are due to change the plugs and at 120 the coolant as well i just bit the bullet and had all of them done at one time and my dealership cut me a small discount for doing them all at one time......

engine size and mileage info would help?

possibile your antenna connection might be loose at the radio , there is a noise suppressor you can buy for such problem if it is and interference problem from the engine,BUT this should not be necessary as you have a problem somewhere and should be checked out either thur the dealership or maybe a local car radio shop which should be cheaper,,when you find the problem please report back for others that might come up with this problem

i have replaced mine as well BUT because the tire shop idiots ruined most of them in one visit in which i posted on here, the manager replaced them at half cost on their behalf..but i also had replaced them on my daughters mail vehicle as well as they were deforming due to all the tire changes and repairs on her van, that said she has just received her post office vehicles so Hooray i dont have to do anymore repairs on it.......only tools i carry for my tires is a 24 inch breaker bar from harbor freight and a 19 mm socket and at home i have a 18 inch torque wrench bar for the wheels 90-100 lbs is not that hard to do without over torquing there nuts as you would think......P.S. using a impact gun is what will deform the 2 pc lugs the most as most tire place sockets are made one side 19mm and the other side 19.5 and if the is the wrong side or try to torqe the lugs with a impact gun IT will deform the lugs real quick

more likely the wires going thur the rubber boot in the drivers door are shorted or broken ,very common problem in journeys as well the lift back hatch,,,,check the door first before spending $$$ on a tipm repair

thanks for replying back on what you found,strange a shorted sensor would make the engine lose or jerk while driving

i have the 3.6 but had to replace my thermostat with around 140 k on it, and ya i kept a real close eye on it as well, i used an after market thermostat instead of OEM and before the change i usually ran around 195 at normal and around 112 at high temp.NOW it usually runs around 200 or so and have seen it while it was hot hot running as high as 212-215 and then drop back down to 205 then fluctuate back and forth, also used the correct mopar antifreeze required. if your not happy i believe the actual thermostat can be removed from the housing and a slightly lower spring unit put back in, also you could also add a extra cooler to the system. hopefully some one that has the 2.4 can post some of their readings for you, but some of your readings do sound a bit high. good luck and welcome to the group

my daughter had the 2.4 engine in her mail jeep and i just changed her plugs every 30 k , and about the 3rd time i bought the plugs off amazon the company was out of the reg plug but sent me the iridium plug that was supposed to be better and last longer,,,guess what less than 2 weeks later i was pulling them out and got the normal oem copper plug from the local auto store and she didnt have any more problems, also there is a pcv valve that can go bad and is super easy to change out,,,also dont overlook the air filter....

the 2.4 plugs need to be changed every 24k-30k,only use the ngk OEM copper plugs for best results,start with them if you havent done this cheap and easy...also how many miles?

which engine, what mileage, have it checked to see if any codes have been stored.

welcome to the group and LOL no there isn't a thread on this question, sounds like you know what your doing way over my head,and i hope you find a fix to this problem maybe John will pipe in sooner or later ,,,good luck on your solution and also please let us know how it all turns out....

check your grounds at the starter , might have to have a garage take a look at it?

just click the long rectangle box under the post and type in it,then click the submit reply

agree with 5rebel9 on this,

was thinking that as well, dang thing is in an odd place to get to, will have check it out and see if i can get the connector off,,,also was watching the youtube videos on bleeding the system and to do a compleat bleeding with abs you need and high end scanner to operate the valves in the abs to get any thing that might be there to flush out,,,as the brake lines have never been opened or any work on them the chance of air or corrosion from old fluid is slim... guess ill check out you tube to see how the connector is latched to the pump..... too old and fat to work on all this new stuff..>>LOL

well my abs module is still on backorder at the dealership, But had to drive over to the Dr office in the big city of Huntsville and of course everyone drives 90 mph and tailgates everyone ,so us normal drivers that leave 5-6 car lengths behind the car in front are always getting cut off for leaving to much room..>LOL anyways all of a sudden everyone hits their brakes and the driver in the next lane sees all the room that i have in my lane and he cuts over and then of course has to hit his brakes causing me to lock up my brakes just to avoid an accident and thank goodness everyone avoids an accident, but after that my abs lights and brake lights turn off on the dash and i check and my cruise control is working again, so after the Dr visit the abs lights come back on again going down the road and then after a short bit they go off, then had to stop at another place for a bit and then start the drive home again and yepo the abs light comes on again and then after a bit it goes off till i get home,,, Just wondering so i check the connector on the abs module and everything looks tight and then i got to wondering if when i locked the brakes up if the brake fluid caused the abs to start working again intermittent, has got me thinking maybe to try to bleed all the brake lines to see if that might help with the bad abs module being intermittent, of course it also could be a connector problem as well, but just weird it started to work part time after having to hit the brakes so hard..... dealership said the module has an internal fault code so that is why they have it on backorder and also i have the max warranty as well so thats why i dont want to replace it for a aftermarket or parts yard part... what are your opinions on this???????