John/Horace

I would suggest an auto parts recycler for a harness. Even a u-pull yard if you are handy. Can take a few pics before you chop out the needed section of harness. There is probably not different harnesses, often they are lots of extra pig tails for the various options.

A coolant pressure test if it doesn’t hold for a least a half hour would tell you how bad pump seal is. I always now change pump at first sign of coolant drip. Few decades ago I drove a pump to failure, winter time and didn’t notice leak. Didn’t damage engine, but bearing went from rotory noise to knocking loudly and full seal failure allowing coolant to majorly piss out. Had to get towed. If pump bearing seizes I have seen pulley snap off pump and brake shaft. Also not good. Paint mark timing chain to each timing gear, then transfer marks to new chain. Bare minimum is changing tensioner if engine is low milage. Rebuilder I know changes tensioner always, chain if milage is high or there is more than normal slack. But a lot of work to go back in a second time.

Was it a used bcm you installed; if new was it aftermarket or factory OEM ?

So you know what is looks like. I don’t work for these guys, but….best on line auto site. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2017,journey,2.4l+l4,3434427,wheel,tire+pressure+monitoring+system+(tpms)+control+unit,19354

Weep hole is to send water away from bearing so it doesn't corrode. But bearing not designed for water contact, so there is an internal seal failure. If you pressure test system it won't hold pressure sitting and fluid will come out hole. Weep hole drip means new or rebuilt pump assembly (new is better) needed. Bearing will rapidly get worse and fail soon, this drip gives warning, which is useful.

Generic cheapo obd2 scanners will not pick up airbag, abs CEL codes and various other non essential stuff. The dealers have much more capability for trouble shooting and retrieving ecm codes. But the equipment is only as good as the tec operating it. A good aftermarket bi directional scanner with programming abilities can also do lots more. Not all sensors are plug and pay now, some have to be calibrated to function properly. Get is scanned with a high end unit if you are using obd only. CEL's often have driveability issues attached, a flashing CEL has to be addressed ASAP, vehicle damage eminent...is the message.

Most likely a grounding issue. Clean inspect repair main body and dash grounds. Lots of posts on site with pics etc.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,body+&+lamp+assembly,radiator+support,812

Welcome to Welcome to the forum. You added to an existing old thread on license plate issues, the right spot, impressive. It's a Mexico only assembled vehicle, and like most of the auto industry is now, mainly metric. Tapping can be tricky depending on how much material is left to work with. A self tapping sheet metal screw works well with plastic and even sheet metal in case there is some not visible. Creates its own new smooth bored hole, then allows screw to make a new thread. If it won't tighten properly, just move up a size and create a larger hole with bigger self tapping screw. Can't always find SS, but exposed to water/salt would be best option. More important than metric/standard really. Factory screw was a 10mm head self tapping plated screw with coarse thread. Like in pic.

Much cheaper fix, so a win. On mini vans I have done that fix a few times. Don’t like the Cardone reman shafts, I normally use the brown box new shafts. Often Mexico stuff. Fewer issues generally.

Low refrigerant charge can cause colder on passenger only. Easily checked with ac gauge. If winter heat is also low on one side as well, then it’s blend door more likely.

Does using neutral help. Which engine and miles?

Most cars ship from factory without gaskets now. But don't use regular rtv silicone, need the more expensive rapid dry stuff, pretty much guarantees no leaks. Tranny shops etc all use it. No over night drying needed.

The clutch on the front of the rear rear diff is usually the big issue with the awd system clunking. People call it a viscous coupling but it’s actually activated by the electric plug on the rear diff. The input seal leaks diff gear oil into the front cover that holds the clutch. Wrecking normal clutch functions. Clutch bearings also fail sometimes. I had the two lip seals on the diff half shafts on each side fail at just over 100k miles. Time consuming but not expensive fix (the rest of diff is still working ok) So changing out entire rear diff with a good used one, is probably a good idea when the clutch coupling goes. The front ptu’s usually hold up if we keep a proper fluid level in them. Minor drip on one seal on mine, I just keep dumping and refilling every 3 years, no dipstick for measuring. Will be interesting if the ptu/transfer case is your failure making the clunk, along with the worn out rear engine mount. Sounds like a great price from a friend.

Could add combustion gas indicator to the glycol, drive a bit then sample. If it's their dime being spent on cylinder inspection, let them. What does analogue heat gauge show, is it also showing higher? A cheap thermostat could be allowing a little higher temps, or was it an OEM stat ? My daughter in laws 2.4 has had several glycol drips that had to be fixed. The plastic manifold on side of engine is a common issue. Gates has an OEM one that comes with new thermostat for cabin heat, and a few o rings. Not as well made as the more expensive OEM unit. If warranty try to make them use OEM. A drip can evaporate and not leave much evidence, will eventually leave organge-ish stain that can be seen by a motivated shop. Temp sensor oring on coolant manifold was last drip I fixed on a 2.4. A small drip will drop level over a few days but not cause overheating. Pics of manifold. Head gasket leak is undrivable overheating, so not likely your problem.

Your heated steering wheel, heated front seats and rear console 120 volt adapter/transformer are all working on the new head unit?

Most common parasitic load is blue tooth module. Fuse called HFU in passenger side kick panel, leave out for a few days. There are guys that rebuild this expensive module when it won’t fully shut down. If it’s 44 milli amps that’s ok, 440 or almost half an amp is not. Keep fob remote away from vehicle when sitting, it can cause draw when close by vehicle.

Voltage doesn't start the car, amperage does. Try putting meter on battery and have some one turn on few accessories. If it's dropping well below 12 you may need a battery. Or get battery load tested,should have minimum 350+ cranking amps. If battery was good you would get 12.5-13.2 volts after charging.

There is a fuse for the push button start, 10 amp mini fuse I think, in passenger side kick panel under dash. Mine blew once, never knew why, didn't happen again from 4yrs ago. Could also try putting car in neutral, then start. Transmission park/neutral switch could be issue. If you have a second different remote, could try with it as well. Is there a yellow key symbol flashing during the no crank no start.?

Thanks for follow up posting. Daughter in laws 2012 with 2.4 had it turn out CPS (no codes to work with) just lucky I guess. ECM on most vehicles rarely ever go. Electronic throttle body is how ever a common 2.4 issue, but not 3.6. What scanner used for reprogramming, curious.

You need graphs to analyze trim, should be sign wave on upstream, both sides of volt set point. Downstream should be close to straight line. You aren’t getting one of several cat codes like efficiency etc, so ignore for now. Reluctor ring is what CPS sensor sees for timing firing. It’s behind crank pulley, can get worn and cause miss fires. Not a common problem, good scanner or physical examination I guess. It’s not a Dorman CPS sensor correct, NTK or Mopar. Try pulling it out again, make sure no dirt build up or old oring left in place. Sensor sits flat and snug.

I don't work for these guys. But have used them for over 10 yrs. Best on line site for info pictures and generally price. Lots of oem options It's for 5% , Groupon or other sites have codes...if your patient. 5% is always available, as a reg customer they send them out few times a year. Cheers. 303976456262138194