John/Horace

I have gone through this issue with two different Journeys. Even replaced the whole passenger side parking brake cable assembly on one car, still dragging a bit afterwards. Located a larger stronger return spring, that finally fixed the problem. I suspect it's the brake caliper parking brake mechanism internally. It was a rebuild caliper; all I could get at the time. Three yrs later spring still doing the job. Second vehicle it happened on I was able to get a brand new caliper assembly. Fixed, no sticking lever not returning fully. Dealer calipers are good but super pricey; new Raybestos unit did the trick, Parts Source.

Batteries don't last as long on cars, so many power options. Some go after 3 years even. Short trip driving in extreme temperatures also not good; cars need 15 mins plus to recharge the battery to normal state again. Transmissions have electronic solenoids, so a low battery can create weird shifting. Battery needs a load test, make sure it's holding charge, see if parasitic load draw. Alternator needs a charging test; needs to be strong enough to keep battery fully charged.

The crack is not the leak, not structural issue either. Polyurethane caulking if it makes you feel better is the best option. A body shop for fixing leaks can sometimes be better than a regular mechanic, imo. There was a few people with a driver's side leak. It turned out to be hard to trace the source. I think it was entering a missed welding joint under the hood, close to the hood hinge area. Try to dry out the carpet as soon as possible. Old towels and a hair dryer etc; need to avoid mold.

How many miles...which engine in behicle. Journey very finicky for weak battery; charging car fixing issues is not good. Always start with reading codes first. No start could be as simple as a cps sensor. Really a wear item at 100k plus on most cars; only a $30 ish dollar item. Doesn't always store a code though. Cleaning up all the grounds on the car especially struts towers can also help things, my 2cents.

Yeah very cool go pro Video. If you look right at base of sway bar link where you hold it with a wrench when tightening, it is clearly stillmoving with bumps. It should not move...at all. You could add a lock washer to stop that movement. End link is a ball and socket design; socket gets sloppy and that is usually where real rattle starts. Sway bar transfers weight to opposite wheel when cornering; to help handling. It is safe to unbolt both ends and drive car for 5mins. It is best way to help isolate noises. Lower ball joints and subframe mounts are common issues on Journey. Lots of salt being used in the nord this year, nasty winter.

My ram has a block heater, electric rack so no whinning hydraulic pump on start ups. Journey 3.6 pumps are burried and always noisy, it seems. Daughter in law's 2.4 is quiet and hi milage, but easy access, figures. I would suck out the atr+4 first, make sure reservoir bottom screen is clear, brake cleaner spray works well. My fluid has been changed multiple times. Pump slightly loud, but tolerable still. Try a flush or two.

Viscous coupling unit is a common maint issue. Need to watch for leaks, keep it topped up or fix leak. Did you add a block heater to the engine, or is in a garage over night, curious. Bad winter this year. Our 2014 is 280kms or 155k miles, alternator and oil cooler filter housing were only earlier than expected fixes.

Unfortunately it doesn't mean he can just use an 8 bolt unit. The holes won't be there. You would think diesel engine would have a stronger design. Unless the 6 bolts are larger diameter and of a higher grade. Transmission shops might know.

All the pics of flex plate for 62te transmission show 8 mounting bolts. Yours is showing only 6 bolts. Something to look into. Part on back order on a lot sites.

AI Overview Yes, traditional hydraulic power steering pumps do have an internal pressure relief valve , typically located within the pump body's outlet portion. This spring-loaded valve prevents excessive pressure—which could burst hoses or damage components—by allowing fluid to recirculate within the pump when steering hits full lock. Older hoses get stiffer over time; especially cheap quality ones. Even bad motor mounts can damage hoses. Crazy cold winter this year.

Unfortunately not an option. You would have to switch to a standard transmission to use a fly wheel. Not a plug and play thing. The flex plate shouldn't be seeing this torque, like 5rebel9 is saying. Great news no DCT tranny. Probably another flex plate with a new torque converter needed. Get other opinions.

Yeah the journey interior trim is above ave imo. Ours was used 4 yrs old when we got it, sales rep car so well looked after. Lots of scuffs but no tears yet, about 170k miles of use now, I'm over 200 pounds. The southern heat is harder on interiors than the northern cold; in my experience. UV light just bakes everything faster. But salt belt bodies are always a bigger problem. Our passenger seat is the flip up gun storage option. It would be easy to change if it ever got really bad. My lithium jumper battery is kept there, handy. The leather seats have had a few wipe downs of conditioner during our ownership. Was in a neighbors 2019 Subaru Legacy Outback the other day, drivers seat has several large holes and coming apart. Looked awful. Like your saying, some of the newer cars seats are being made cheaper. And fixing a seat is not easy to do.

Finally stopped snowing, pic of raised rear deck patio table. Some areas near by got 1.5' feet of snow. Light fluffy stuff, easy to snow blow. Like you said...the cold is worse than the snow this year. A US gallon of regular gas here lately is about $3.20 ish cdn. Much lower than last year, tax rules change helped. Diesel still slightly more than gas.

Wiki says the diesel with automatic is the Getrag mps6 or 6dct450 automatic. Not a conventional torque converter but a dual clutch transmission. Ford and Volvo often use this unit, with dual wet multi plate clutches. Known for much quicker uninterrupted shifts, improving fuel economy. If not maintained dirty fluid can cause harsh shifts and shuddering. These are direct quotes from Google. The flex plates shown are weaker than a std transmission fly wheel, could be getting twisted/cracked without a huge bang occurring. Diesel torque is much bigger than petrol/gas. DCT transmissions in general don't have a good reputation for reliability, Ford, Kia, VW have all had multiple recalls and problems. Efficiency sometimes has a price.

Was that the factory original HOAT coolant in the engine still ? Early 2013 vehicles had hoat which is not compatible with oat, the coolant still used today. Hoat is purplish when new, oat is closer to an orange color; kinda tricky for reliable assessment. Dexcool does make oat coolant, compatible with other orange oat extended life coolants. But mixing hoat and oat coolant can make jell over time that will probably plug up your dash heater core etc. To avoid any problems I would dump out all coolant and flush system with distilled water if possible. Then refill with a oat (organic acid technology) long life fluid; which will last vehicle life time. Google what I saying, this potential problem is out there. Heater core is not easy to change, even rad can have issues. I'm in my mid 60s, working on cars is not as easy as it was years ago. But information is more available. Cheers.

I have never had that much weight in a Journey. Good to know it can take it. A fulll passenger load in a 7 seater is quite a bit too; brakes/suspension has a bit of a safety factor I think. Towed a trailer a little over the limit once with a Journey, short distance watching tranny temp; luckily no issues. Picked up another can of super no ethanol for snow blower today. It's been getting used. Lake effect really bad lately, the big predicted storm to hit 30 states may also swing north they say. Weekend might get rough. As long as lights stay on, I'm ok. So I agree...we could use a few degree's of global warming right now. 🙄

I especially don't like the idea of running longer than you have to at a high psi with the plastic housing heat exchanger. I'm on my second one, no Dorman alumium option when first failed. It was in the middle of nasty January cold snap at around 102k miles 5yrs old. Filter cap always tightened with inch pound torque wrench, and always 5w20 synthetic oil. No crack found, base oring seals failure I think. Complete new oem...it was January.

My wife is also a big awd fan, and heated steering wheel/seats. And lady lead foot, so the 3.6 engine power...but avoids tickets so I can't say much. You have the skills to diagnose and the mechanic connections for really big jobs needing a hoist. Southern vehicles are so much better to work in as well. Get it on a set of ramps when it warms up a bit; fastest way to quickly evaluate I think. Could compromise and add on to winter driveability; remote start is simplest upgrade. Other items are just to much work/$'s. Problem with Durango is the 3.6 engine is the one to own used, maybe high milage. Between hemi tic cams from mds design and exhaust manifold studs breaking; and very tight engine compartment, 5.7 Durango is not something I would want to own. But the 3.6 would struggle with the bigger body to drag around. Adding to the journey fleet makes more sense imo. Cars have become crazy expensive, so I get closely analyzing this kind of decision. Fuel seems to be dropping rapidly so upgrading to 3.6 won't add up to much, vehicle probability even has the aluminum oil cooler by now.

My wife's iPhone 16e is working well with a 2014 journey RT right now, if that info is of any help. Lower model phone..probably same IOS. So 2013 shouldn't be a uconnect compatibility issue imo. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.

If you drop down the glove box door and pull the HVAC filter out, you can actually see what the actuator is doing. If it's stuck poking it will sometimes free it up again for a few more months. The plastic internal gears get worn and sticky, replacement is only long term fix, like you know. Super awkward to change, one of the journey design flaws. They wear out because it's used to vent car when parked, constantly cycles every drive cycle. I think subframe bushings are more likely your constant clunk 2lage4u; will be interesting to see what it is.

Have to agree with 5rebel9 fob battery critical. Once they drop to even 3.0 from 3.3 volts new, affects how they work. Cheapo dollar store brand are not a great idea, extreme hot/cold crushes battery life as well. Also clip from Google below... Yes, certain types of window tint film, particularly metallic tints, can interfere with key fob signals by blocking radio frequencies (RF), requiring you to be closer to your car for it to work. Non-metallic tints like ceramic or carbon are designed to minimize this interference, making them a better choice for maintaining keyless entry and remote start functionality.

Clear silicone won't stain fabric. Better for rubber, plastic, synthetic fibre than regular petroleum products or windex amonia. I think there are rollers you cant see that arent spinning right anymore, as well. This is an expensive silicone used on bikes and other outdoor equipment. No gravite content to stain clothes etc. Around double price of regular silicone, ebike store stock item. Auto recycler would sell belt assembly cheap, but the mounting bolts often crazy T55+ torx fastner; and really torqued down.

Yes 2.4 has dipstick, use funnel to add through that, ATF+4 only. My dealer sells by the quart, reasonable price. Shaft pops out from transmission with a pry bar fairly easily. Count on losing about one quart (0.95 of a litre) or less. Always put a film of tranny oil on shaft surface that slides through seal into transmission. If dry it can rip the seal. If it already has a drip, knocking in a new seal is a good idea. Around $20 for a new oem seal. Torque wrench for the cv axle nut is a good idea; it is considered a one time use nut. New shaft will probably have new nut. Three of my four cv shafts have reused nuts on them. Retorqued them a few times afterwards to check, but no issues. New nut is also around $20, your call...technically safer option if shaft reused.

Great news, hard to trouble shoot. My brothers kia van had the same item fail, took a while to figure it out. Until it’s really bad when it becomes more obvious. Dealer kept saying motor mounts. More of a high milage thing, although not always. Not crazy expensive part or labor really. Mechanics may want to change passenger cv shaft because it’s removed to do this repair. Factory shafts are very good quality and going back to change wheel bearing hub; might make more sense at that time. Unless boot damage and 300k on original c/v.

Milage ? Start with fluid and filter and reset codes, especially if never done. Solenoid pack can be done in place normally.