mechanical-idiot

Just picked one up at the salvage yard for 75 bucks.  Came off a 2013.  Accident damaged vehicle with 43000 km on it.
 
Thanks 2late4u, I forgot about the old junkyard ploy!  You just saved me a few bucks!
 
The MIL light has not come back, but if it does, I will be prepared.
 
mechanical-idiot

The Journey (any year and all models) can take 17" and larger wheels.  Older Journeys (the ones with the smaller brakes) can also take 16" wheels.

The tire size is obviously impacted, because for any wheel size, the width and circumference of the tires needs to conform to what the vehicle can handle.

So, like many among us I have 17" steel wheels with my 225/65/17 snow tires mounted on them and the original 19" wheels with (in my case) a set of 225/55/19 Bridgestone ECOPIA H/L 422 PLUS installed.

Those sizes are what FCA delivers with the vehicles.

They diameter of the tires is close enough that there is minimal impact on speedometer and odometer accuracy.  Ride height is pretty much the same, too.
 

well i think you need to find a good mechanic as i know there has to be one around you somewhere. other than that the starters you are using that keep getting broken ,where are you getting them from? most after market parts are not always up to snuff. they will cost you more, but dodge dealership parts are built to a better standard than aftermarket parts,good luck on what ever you decide but give the thought of finding a mech you can trust as you are just spinning your wheels right know and i know its frustrating but cars are a lot more complicated these days then they use to be yrs ago. hell i dont even want to change my own plugs  anymore.

Check out this thread.  I am not sure if this is what you replaced on yours, but it was not a cheap fix.
It sounds like your problem might have been the same as mine.
 
I hope this thread is of some assistance to you.
 
mechanical-idiot
 
 
 
 
 

I would buy an OEM one just to be on the safe side. If anything were to happen with the accelerator while you were driving you'd be screaming expletives because you bought one from somewhere else! If anything does go wrong again with the OEM one, the good news is that it will be covered under warranty. That's the main benefit for going with the dealership, once you replace a part that part is under warranty for I believe 2 years (may want to double check that). How many miles do you have on your DJ? 6 years isn't very old

might want to check the salvage yards for a used one also

You could talk to the people who initially repaired this item.  They may come to you to check it out, so you won''t have to move it.  They might even put another one on the vehicle for you.
 
I have a neighbor who is very mechanical.  He says that 2late4u is correct in his evaluation of your starter.  
 
You could replace it yourself.  Check on youtube.  It is easy to do.  Almost all vehicles are the same and the starter is in the same position.  Just a few bolts and wires.
 
You probably get a core refund for the old starter, so ask when you purchase one.  If you buy one at the dealer, chances are it is brand new and thus the expensive purchase price.  If you purchase one at a parts store, chances are it is refurbished.  That is why they take your old one back and give you a refund.  They send them off to be refurbished.  That is why they sometimes crap out after you get one put on.  It should have a 90 day warranty or something like that.  I hope you saved your old receipts!
 
Anywho......... DO NOT TOW THE VEHICLE YOURSELF!  You can screw up the rear end on an AWD by towing it.   Then you will be paying a couple of thousand bucks to get it fixed.
 
Good luck, and please let us know how you get along.
 
mechanical-idiot
 

Not only does the life of your brakes depend on your driving style, but it also depends on the maintenance/upkeep of your car. I am impressed on the how long and well my brakes on my 2015 have lasted and how much more life they seem to have left (currently at 48K miles). When I started hearing that well known creaking noise somewhere on my front axle I thought it would affect the life of my brakes, but so far so good.
My old 91 Explorer had great brakes that lasted and performed very well. When my daughter took the car over, she got less than half the life on the brakes. She had also not told me that she heard a clunk every once in a while when she hit the brakes. There were some bushings in the suspension that were causing the brakes to wear very quickly. Anyway, after the bushings were changed, next set of pads lasted much longer (I averaged 50-60K on each set of pads...had the car to about 290K miles). Lesson here kids, maintain your car  

Yawn. . .    I agree, Dodge did it right name.  I no have issue in my vehicle.  
 
I think you forgot to mentions any of your issues.  People on this forum are here to help.   What are your issues, exactly?
 
Peace.

Correction:
tighten the hub nut  to 160 N·m (118 ft. lbs.)
 
everything you need to know including diagrams is right here on our very own site:
 
 
 
mechanical-idiot
 

Just had the same problem on our front passenger side.  jkeaton is correct - it was a bad strut mount.  Clunking noise on bumps.  Drove us crazy until we got it fixed.
 
mechanical-idiot

well you say the solenoid  is good, but if the starter is spinning but the car inst starting then the solenoid is not doing its job to pop out the gear to engage the flywheel, i would be checking the that out again and or any other electrical part that would involve the solenoid. i had a truck yrs ago doing the same thing ( it would start one day or couple of days then wouldn't start)the dealership replaced the starter and said it was fixed  couple days later it happened again took it back they changed out the starter and solenoid again and kept it for a few days saying they were checking it out at different times during the day and was working fine told me come get it, I went to start it and it wouldn't start ended up being a small black box on top of the eng (have no idea what it was) charged me another $10. and i never had another problem with the truck starting....

well try a different dealership even if it means a further trip down the road, I havent had any problems , more info would be nice like is it awd or fwd, mileage on it, do you feel the vibration while under power and or  just coasting, any an all info is needed for someone to maybe help you, no problem with the venting as it sucks to have a new car and the dealership is no help. maybe the dodge adviser on here could get involved and help you out??????/

Everyone has this issue. Dealers first option is sway bar bushings. That won't fix it and you'll end up taking it back. Force their hand. Replace the strut mounts  

Rear wiper is likely not working because the wire in the wiring harness on the back liftgate is broken.  Mine did the same thing.  It is a common problem with them.  You need to pull the rubber housing off of it and check it.  A neighbor of mine fixed mine for me.  Mine would work once in a while.  Then it started working when we put it into reverse.  Both the backup light wire and the rear wiper motor wires were damaged and they were touching each other, causing the rear wiper to work when we put it in reverse.
 
Your nozzles on your engine hood could be plugged or frozen.  They are cheap to replace from ebay or amazon.  Another common problem with Dodge vehicles in general.
 
I have no idea about the radio.
 
youtube has some great videos on fixing the above problems.
 
I don't know much about mechanics, but I hope my reply is helpful to you.
 
mechanical-idiot

Correction:
tighten the hub nut  to 160 N·m (118 ft. lbs.)
 
everything you need to know including diagrams is right here on our very own site:
 
 
 
mechanical-idiot
 

Make sure you get everything they say in regards to the car in writing. Sure it is possible, but like @jkeaton said it is going to cost a lot more than just buying some seats. The entire rear of the vehicle has different trim pieces, cargo area, and floor loading level. You should have looked it up before buying, I make a habit of looking stuff up at the dealer before making a decision. Sales people can be tricky little boogers. 

Be also aware that the RF hub is included with the OEM remote starter kit - and that kit comes with 2 key fobs. It still needs to be learned into the vehicle, but if you didn't have remote start you will now - you can usually find the kits on Ebay for about $265 . . . . interesting enough I don't see any there now . . . . .

Thanks.  I really appreciate the time you took to give me this advice.
 
I just called Mopar before reading your post, and you are absolutely correct.
 
https://www.mopar.com/en-us/store/product-details.html?partId=82215575AB
1-888-528-4364
 
They told me the same information that you just did.  It has to be programmed and a used one will not just plug and play, even if you get the FOBs that worked with the used one.  They recommend a new unit be installed.  Installing a used unit could cause other "problems" they said.  I did not ask for an elaboration.
 
So, off to the dealer to spend a pile more money.  This vehicle is killing us slowly.
 
One thing I did learn from the above video is the FCC ID.  If you are purchasing a new FOB from a site on the net (not the dealer), you need the FCC ID number from your RFHUB to purchase the proper FOBs.  That number is on the cover of the RFHUB.  So, all is not lost.  At least this info may help someone else.  When I called the dealer about 3 months ago asking them where I could find this number, nobody could tell me.  We were going to purchase an extra FOB, but ended up not doing it because we could not find our FCC ID number.
 
mechanical-idiot
 
 

Thanks.  I really appreciate the time you took to give me this advice.
 
I just called Mopar before reading your post, and you are absolutely correct.
 
https://www.mopar.com/en-us/store/product-details.html?partId=82215575AB
1-888-528-4364
 
They told me the same information that you just did.  It has to be programmed and a used one will not just plug and play, even if you get the FOBs that worked with the used one.  They recommend a new unit be installed.  Installing a used unit could cause other "problems" they said.  I did not ask for an elaboration.
 
So, off to the dealer to spend a pile more money.  This vehicle is killing us slowly.
 
One thing I did learn from the above video is the FCC ID.  If you are purchasing a new FOB from a site on the net (not the dealer), you need the FCC ID number from your RFHUB to purchase the proper FOBs.  That number is on the cover of the RFHUB.  So, all is not lost.  At least this info may help someone else.  When I called the dealer about 3 months ago asking them where I could find this number, nobody could tell me.  We were going to purchase an extra FOB, but ended up not doing it because we could not find our FCC ID number.
 
mechanical-idiot
 
 

Sorry to hear about what happened to your journey, but this is a completely unrelated problem. No automaker is going to take the hit for a something that occurs only once, especially something where they aren't able to confirm what happened. Every automaker comes across issues like these. 2005 Ford Explorers caught on fire when cruise control was turned on, 2014 GM cars would switch off on the highway while driving, Toyotas and Lexus cars accelerated on their own in 2009 are just a few instances. did you take it to the dealership to get it looked at and see if they could find a defect? Below is what the recall for RAM trucks is about. 
 
"Fiat Chrysler said the issue applies to shifters mounted to steering columns, not rotary-dial shifters or floor-mounted shifters. The issue arises when the brake pedal is pressed for a long stretch while the driver is idling in park mode, disabling the brake-transmission shift interlock and then allowing the shifter to move out of park mode."

A Journey is not a RAM truck. 
 
When this happened to you did you file a report with the NHTSA at www.safercar.gov?

It is never too late.

I can get under and reach with no problem, but for the $52 it costs for a full synthetic change maybe twice a year ($27 for a 6 pack of Mobil1 at COSTCO, $25 for a filter and they use my oil ) why get my hands dirty?  Then you have to capture the  waste oil and take it somewhere.
I guess I do use an oil extractor, the guy at the oil change place!  

first off syn at the dealership is really high, 2nd just do your first 4 free oil changes at 6 k not 3 k just wasting your free changes. and by oil extractor i am assuming you mean a tube down the oil stick tube it would work but probally wont get all the oil out and or any residue that would drain out by removing the drain plug.after looking at the oil extractor kind of pricey and had some bad reviews . think i ( 65 yr old fat man)would stay with the oil pan and remove the drain plug i mean its usually only once a yr or so...good luck 

So I found the problem! It was not in the wire bundle that passes threw the body up by the lift gate. It was a faulty module that controls the wiring for the trailer hook up. It's tied into the left break light assembly. It has a "T" style harness for the break light and the park light and then is spliced into the signal light. The module is tucked in behind the bumper just below the tail light assembly. I removed the "T" connector and cut the wire for the signal light that was jumpered from the car harness and went to the module. It didnt work right away, but not untill i cycled the car ignition to the on possotion without starting the engine. I'll post pictures when I go back in and clean the area up