Shawn855

My erratic shifts are only upshifts. Downshifts are perfect. Theory: maybe I need to remove battery posts for an hour to reset the tcm learning since I now have fresh transmission fluid set at the correct level? (Vehicle was 20mm overfilled when i got it). 

Lol ya i tore right into mine. That little spring does NOT want to stay in place, so I threw it away. Still opens and closes perfectly. Just takes forever for it to open now, as there is no spring action lol

about 6 months ago mine made a funny noise as it was closing BUT it still works if when closing it i push it back closed, gently  i wasnt sure what happened but as long as it will close i didnt want to tear into it as i have a poor track record on fixing things like this....LOl

My 2016 sxt with 120k kms just started doing this 2 days ago. Goes to shift into 6th and slips a little then catches itself. Doesn't always do it but I can feel it when it does. Almost like a loss of power thing. 
 
Seeing as how I never changed my transmission fluid and filter on it yet, I figure this is a good time to do so lol. Ordered the parts. Will update on if it helped or not. Not too worried. This transmission has always had weird little hesitation / stutter issues since getting it at 50k kms. Worst case if it gets worse, I go to the dealer and trade it in lol

Well if you're ever bored and sitting in your warmed up journey, feel free to give it a couple revs and let me know <3 ❤️ lol 

Guess we will never know as posters are usually only concerned about their own problem and NEVER report back as to what fixed their problem, which is a shame as that is what does not help others that might encounter the same problem,,,, that said i have a 2014 in alabama and upon start up yes i do hear the power steering whine for a while, guess i have just got use io it the slight kocks i hear when going over a small bump or dip bothers  me more than anything else, but it is what it is

Front suspension:
DESCRIPTION
N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. COMMENT Brake Shield 10 7 89 Crossmember Mounting Bolts 135 100 — Crossmember Reinforcement Bracket Mounting
Screws 50 37 — Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts 48 35 — Hub Nut 160 118 — Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut 95 70 — Lower Control Arm Front Pivot Bolt 175 129 — Lower Control Arm Rear Pivot Bolt Nut 145 107 — Stabilizer Bar Cushion Retainer Screws 60 44 — Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts 48 35 — Strut Clevis-to-Knuckle Nuts 140 103 — Strut Rod Nut 60 44 — Strut-to-Tower Nuts 55 41 — Tie Rod Adjuster Jam Nut 75 55 — Tie Rod End Knuckle Nut 85 63 — Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 135 100  
Rear Suspension:
 
DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. COMMENT Brake Tube Bracket Knuckle Mounting Screw 21 15 — Brake Flex Hose Trailing Link Mounting Screw 20 15 — Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts 60 44 — Hub Nut 245 181 — Do not
reuse these
fasteners.
If removed,
a new
fastener
must be
installed
and
tightened to
specifications. Lower Control Arm Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Lower Control Arm Crossmember Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Lower Control Arm Crossmember Bracket to Body 61 45 — Shock Assembly Lower Mounting Bolt Nut 100 74 — Shock Assembly Upper Mounting Nuts 45 33 — Shock Rod Nut 30 22 — Stabilizer Bar Retainer Screws 25 18 — Stabilizer Link Mounting Nuts 100 74 — Toe Link Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Toe Link Cam Bolt Nut 95 70 — Trailing Link Body Mounting Bolts 110 81 — Trailing Link Knuckle Mounting Bolts 80 59 — Upper Control Arm Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Upper Control Arm Crossmember Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 —  

Hey everyone,
 
I obtained the service manual for the dodge journey and now have access to the following torque specs so feel free to post in here if you need them: 
 
-Body 
-Brakes front + back
-Cooling system
-Engine system
-Exhaust system
-Fluids chart
-Front axle shaft
-Front engine mounts
-Front suspension system
-Rear axle shaft
-Rear suspension system
-Restraints system
-Steering column
-Steering system
 
 

So I was having this issue last summer. And I ended up having unrelated battery parasitic draw issues this past winter which required me to pull some fuses until I figured out the issue. 
 
Regardless, one of the fuses I ended up pulling was for the HVAC. Front and rear. This wasn't the issue, however I noticed since pulling and reseating those fuses, my climate stopped randomly turning on. Could be a coincidence but just posting it here in case it helps.

Same thing happening to my journey as well. Started this summer. Made sure rear climate is off. When it kicks back on by itself, it's only the front climate. I'll sit there and turn it off and watch the screen and it will turn back on sometimes within seconds. 

Call it personal preference on my part to torque my wheels with weight off the tires. I would rightly assume that with the weight on the wheels, you'll probably hit an accurate 100 ft-lbs on the top nut(s), but when torquing the bottom nut(s) the weight on the tire won't get you an accurate torque. Think about it, you're applying pressure to the nuts with the tire weighted down on the ground. But hey it's all personal preference. There's tons of debates on this subject and each person will choose their own respective way. 
 
As for the manual stating the tire should be on the ground , I'm thinking they mean lower the tire just enough so it gets traction on the ground so you can torque the nuts without the tire spinning. Which is what I do. I lower the tires to the ground just enough to prevent them from spinning , while still having 90% of the weight off them, so that each lug nut gets an even amount of torque applied to it. 
 
Again that's my preference, I'm not here to debate which way is best. I simply know what works best for me after trial and error. 
 
 

I'll chyme back in to try and help out. My issue ended up being my wheels being torqued too tight. My torque wrench was off by 20 ft-lbs so instead of torquing to 100, it was actually torquing to 120. Once I acquired a new torque wrench, and followed the correct procedure of torquing (and retorquing after 80kms) with the weight of the vehicle off the wheels, my vibration went down 90% and rarely happens at all. 

2010 Dodge journey lower balljoint nut torque spec is 70 ft-lbs. confirmed. 

So I was having this issue last summer. And I ended up having unrelated battery parasitic draw issues this past winter which required me to pull some fuses until I figured out the issue. 
 
Regardless, one of the fuses I ended up pulling was for the HVAC. Front and rear. This wasn't the issue, however I noticed since pulling and reseating those fuses, my climate stopped randomly turning on. Could be a coincidence but just posting it here in case it helps.

Yes. I'm hoping it's this fuse causing grief. However could still be alternator. Voltage Was 12.72v then decided to take it for a 10 minute drive. Got home, waited an hour and checked voltage and it's only at 12.68? But when idling its charging fine at 14.50. So either the alternator isn't pumping out enough juice while actually driving (I had two seat warmers on, HVAC front and HVAC rear on as well) , or my battery drained quite a bit in the hour it sat. Currently reading another topic about a user who experienced this exact same thing. Unfortunately he never posted a solution. 
 
One thing at a time though. First I want to see which fuse is problematic. Then once I figure out that gremlin, I'll move on to the charging issue by connecting my obd2 scanner and monitor the voltage while actually driving to see if it dips.

Yes. I'm hoping it's this fuse causing grief. However could still be alternator. Voltage Was 12.72v then decided to take it for a 10 minute drive. Got home, waited an hour and checked voltage and it's only at 12.68? But when idling its charging fine at 14.50. So either the alternator isn't pumping out enough juice while actually driving (I had two seat warmers on, HVAC front and HVAC rear on as well) , or my battery drained quite a bit in the hour it sat. Currently reading another topic about a user who experienced this exact same thing. Unfortunately he never posted a solution. 
 
One thing at a time though. First I want to see which fuse is problematic. Then once I figure out that gremlin, I'll move on to the charging issue by connecting my obd2 scanner and monitor the voltage while actually driving to see if it dips.

On my 09 my original battery lasted 5 years, the replacement lasted 4.  The original was fine until it just up and died overnight, the replacement just got weaker, sometimes having to turn the key twice to get the car to crank.  Your voltages don’t look that bad, but why chance it.  If you have someplace warm to swap batteries, might be a good idea.  If not, maybe a trickle charger of carry a booster with you until you can swap the batteries. ?

What? I never said the battery was 14.5v......i said it was at 14.7 while vehicle was running, when checking the alternator charging output...
 
These tests are all done with the vehicle off and parked, except for the alternator AC voltage test with vehicle on. 

Do you have the "big screen" audio with nav/bluetooth/ and all that stuff?   I've heard many cases of such not shutting down properly and killing batteries in short (2-3 days). Also you really should have the batteries properly load tested with meter that shops and parts stores use to properly determine battery health. Most will do this for FREE.

i would try an AGM battery if thats the case. they should be preforming better in cold with better CCAs too. havent done it myself but if you are buying a new battery again (current batteries not under warranty) thats maybe where i would start if you feel confident on your diagnosis (seems about right to me). with the ON cold snap (especially down here in SW-ON) ive already had to help a random fellow 2.4 journey owner with bumping their car this winter.

Front suspension:
DESCRIPTION
N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. COMMENT Brake Shield 10 7 89 Crossmember Mounting Bolts 135 100 — Crossmember Reinforcement Bracket Mounting
Screws 50 37 — Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts 48 35 — Hub Nut 160 118 — Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut 95 70 — Lower Control Arm Front Pivot Bolt 175 129 — Lower Control Arm Rear Pivot Bolt Nut 145 107 — Stabilizer Bar Cushion Retainer Screws 60 44 — Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts 48 35 — Strut Clevis-to-Knuckle Nuts 140 103 — Strut Rod Nut 60 44 — Strut-to-Tower Nuts 55 41 — Tie Rod Adjuster Jam Nut 75 55 — Tie Rod End Knuckle Nut 85 63 — Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 135 100  
Rear Suspension:
 
DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. COMMENT Brake Tube Bracket Knuckle Mounting Screw 21 15 — Brake Flex Hose Trailing Link Mounting Screw 20 15 — Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts 60 44 — Hub Nut 245 181 — Do not
reuse these
fasteners.
If removed,
a new
fastener
must be
installed
and
tightened to
specifications. Lower Control Arm Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Lower Control Arm Crossmember Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Lower Control Arm Crossmember Bracket to Body 61 45 — Shock Assembly Lower Mounting Bolt Nut 100 74 — Shock Assembly Upper Mounting Nuts 45 33 — Shock Rod Nut 30 22 — Stabilizer Bar Retainer Screws 25 18 — Stabilizer Link Mounting Nuts 100 74 — Toe Link Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Toe Link Cam Bolt Nut 95 70 — Trailing Link Body Mounting Bolts 110 81 — Trailing Link Knuckle Mounting Bolts 80 59 — Upper Control Arm Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Upper Control Arm Crossmember Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 —  

Yeah I saw the mention about the brake pedal switch. If it were that, wouldn't the brake lights be on while the vehicle is turned off? 
 
That fuse draw circuit tester looks like a great tool to test with, but since I already know that pulling that specific fuse reduces the draw, I'd say that using that tool would be redundant in my case. I'll probably still end up buying one however lol. 

From my very limited knowledge in this area, what I can recall is that the TIPM controls what electronics go to sleep when the vehicle is turned off. If I pull that abs fuse, and the draw goes down, but then reinsert the fuse, the draw stays down. If I restart the draw test, the fuse is back to drawing 500 milliamps. 
 
My buddy is a mechanic at a local shop and said he changed a lot of TIPM, as well as PCM and when I did the research, there's another board with over 100 posts about the issue I'm facing. Some were narrowed down to the Bluetooth module, and some to the radio, while others was the PCM and others the TIPM.  
 
Edit: acronym mistakes, because it's 7:50am

From my very limited knowledge in this area, what I can recall is that the TIPM controls what electronics go to sleep when the vehicle is turned off. If I pull that abs fuse, and the draw goes down, but then reinsert the fuse, the draw stays down. If I restart the draw test, the fuse is back to drawing 500 milliamps. 
 
My buddy is a mechanic at a local shop and said he changed a lot of TIPM, as well as PCM and when I did the research, there's another board with over 100 posts about the issue I'm facing. Some were narrowed down to the Bluetooth module, and some to the radio, while others was the PCM and others the TIPM.  
 
Edit: acronym mistakes, because it's 7:50am

Most likely a parasitic draw on the battery that drains it. Here is an excellent how to video if you would like to find what the culprit is on your own: