Armando G

Been a while since I've been on here, but I did get everything done. I have a good friend that owns a Mercedes shop and he did all of the rockers, a couple of camshafts, and a few other items under there for under $3k. I do have the 3.6 and it truly took about 8 hours to do it all over 2 days. I was also able to see the car when it was taken apart, and he showed me the 2 broken rockers and the camshafts. I decided to change 2 of the of the camshafts, even though he gave me the option to keep one of them. The other two were smooth and in great condition. After some more conversations with the dealer, the average price to do this whole job (without the $400 camshafts) would have been $4,600. The car is running great and I have an 18 month warranty if anything goes wrong. I've been on a couple long trips since the work and no issues so far. My DJ is still going strong with no issues. Oh, and believe it or not, I've always used high quality full synthetic up with every change. The issue was the lower quality rockers used in the original construction. 

Been a while since I've been on here, but I did get everything done. I have a good friend that owns a Mercedes shop and he did all of the rockers, a couple of camshafts, and a few other items under there for under $3k. I do have the 3.6 and it truly took about 8 hours to do it all over 2 days. I was also able to see the car when it was taken apart, and he showed me the 2 broken rockers and the camshafts. I decided to change 2 of the of the camshafts, even though he gave me the option to keep one of them. The other two were smooth and in great condition. After some more conversations with the dealer, the average price to do this whole job (without the $400 camshafts) would have been $4,600. The car is running great and I have an 18 month warranty if anything goes wrong. I've been on a couple long trips since the work and no issues so far. My DJ is still going strong with no issues. Oh, and believe it or not, I've always used high quality full synthetic up with every change. The issue was the lower quality rockers used in the original construction. 

After 7 years and 61000 miles. The outside of the rotors and pads looked good. But the back of the rotors were ugly.
 

2015 v6 fwd has 110k with orig brakes. The rear brakes are about done, another 10k guess? 

I assume that you're talking about the 3.6 engine.  I've done rockers myself a couple of times on different vehicles with this same engine.  I maintain my vehicles too, regular oil changes, etc... so it's a frustrating issue that seems unavoidable in some cases.  It's not a terribly tough job if you're mechanically-inclined.  The big reason for the expensive quotes is that the service manual, and associated hours for the job in the service manual include the removal of the camshafts.  It is absolutely possible to replace all the rockers WITHOUT removing the camshafts if the camshafts are not damaged by the faulty rocker(s).  There are some YouTube videos that show how to do this.  I'm not a professional mechanic, and I can replace all 12 rockers in a single cylinder head in about 2 hours myself.  If you don't want to do this yourself, then I'd search for a mechanic who knows how to do the job without removing the camshafts.

The last post has to be some kind of AI robot crap. It completely ignores the mention of $2k + expensive rattling top  end engine problem. There is no testament to good maint and reliability  bla bla bla.  I’m sure owner is not happy at all at only 100k mikes for this type of expense. 
To actually answer his question, which johanbrandon clearly didn’t. There are a few docuemented cases of this with the 3.6 engine, on this site, but it is not a commmon issue at all, especially at your low milage.  I would try switching to a Mopar filter and new top grade oil immediately, see if sound changes.  Maybe even high milage 5W30 oil considering your location. They don’t usually just start loud ticking. Top end wear slowly increases and sound level follows.
 

I did a 500 mile trip this past week to Central Oregon with about 200 miles of frozen roads. I went from nice clear weather in CA to snowy, freezing weather in Oregon. This was the first time I drove my DJ in 20 degree weather with frozen roads, and it did not disappoint. I kept up with all of the big tire studded trucks and all wheel cars that were out there with me (I have the FWD model). Felt in full control the whole time and used the Autoshift option to control my speed and stops. I also dealt with 3 feet of snow fall on the 4th day with no issues at all. I was surprised that OR does not salt their roads like what I'm used to in CA - they use a gravel/sand looking stuff that doesn't really do much. Anyways, just wanted to give the '15 DJ a positive review and state yet again how happy I am with this thing. 
 
If you're wondering, I was helping my daughter buy a house and wanted my tools and car to help with the move in and install of her things (we closed last Wednesday). She's amazing and I'm very proud of her. 

Well, my 2015 DJ hit 90k on the clock this past week and I am still as happy with it as the day I bought it. She's carried my 4 kids on long trips, pulled a trailer when I moved my daughter, driven in the snow and ice, handled 120 degree weather, and been my 'get away' spot when I needed to just take off. She got a new transmission under warranty at around 30k miles and I just replaced the thermostat. Other than that I'm still on the original battery, original brake pads and rotors, and everything still works as expected. I do perform regular maintenance as advised, and don't abuse her (too much). My DJ has been a great SUV for me and even when I look at other cars to buy, I end up sticking with my DJ. 

I'm at 80k on my 2015, with approximately 65-70% of brake life left. Shocks me every time I get a service and am told... but thankful as well. No squeaking or vibration. Keep thinking my pads are going to outlast my rotors. 

Well, hit the big one and my rockers seem to be 'ticking' now. Dodge quoted $2400 to inspect, then they'll give me a final price...ugh. Anyone else replace their rockers (or lifters)? I got another quote for no more than $2000 with all lifters and rockets replaced. 

Well, it finally happened - I hit the 100k mark on my girl. After 8 years of ownership and many long trips, I am still happy with my DJ. She gets me where I need to be and runs as smooth as the day I brought her home. Other than a sensor going out at the 90k mark, I've just had to do regular maintenance. I have also completed the 100k mile service, which was a bit pricey but well worth it. Here's to another 100k with no major issues...?

Well, it finally happened - I hit the 100k mark on my girl. After 8 years of ownership and many long trips, I am still happy with my DJ. She gets me where I need to be and runs as smooth as the day I brought her home. Other than a sensor going out at the 90k mark, I've just had to do regular maintenance. I have also completed the 100k mile service, which was a bit pricey but well worth it. Here's to another 100k with no major issues...?

Well, it finally happened - I hit the 100k mark on my girl. After 8 years of ownership and many long trips, I am still happy with my DJ. She gets me where I need to be and runs as smooth as the day I brought her home. Other than a sensor going out at the 90k mark, I've just had to do regular maintenance. I have also completed the 100k mile service, which was a bit pricey but well worth it. Here's to another 100k with no major issues...?

If you want your car specifically, you can put your phone down, turn on the video and drive slowly over it. Don't run it over (feel like I have to say that). Then you can run the video and pause as needed. Not sure what you are looking for specifically. 
Or invest in a selfie stick. 
 
Otherwise, here is one...
 
 

Anyone can. All you need is a new key fob with the remote start button. A hood switch or 1k ohm resistor. As well as Alfaobd. I used no parts from the wrecked journey for this. All our Journey's have the ability with a hood switch and key fob.
 
Program new key to the vehicle. I purchased the key from amazon for $35. Install a new battery in the remote before starting this step. Mine came with a weak battery and would not reliably work at first. I could not get it to program. With a new battery it programmed on the first try.
 
Install the hood switch or resistor. The wiring is already there. Just taped up in cloth like tape behind the right headlight. I bent a resistor so it would slid into the existing connector and wrapped it in electrical tape for now.
 
Activate remote start and hood switch present with alfaobd. There is a setting for the resistor as well. It defaulted to 1k ohm. I checked it but did not need to change it. I then reset the rfhub using alfaobd. It does not change anything. it just forces the rfhub to check for any new settings or hardware and implement them if present.
 
Drive around for 10 minutes. I let the car sit for 15 minutes and it would not work. After a short drive it worked.
 
That is all there was to it. Only new parts are the remote and hood switch.
 
The oem kit includes a new rfhub and remote start antenna. I ass-u-me it gives better range but the remote start on our journey works fine from inside the house.

Remote start now works. I purchased a key fob from amazon with the remote start button ($35) and a 1k ohm resistor for the hood ajar switch ($0.10). Activated the new remote with Alfa. Be warned. It came with a dead battery. I could not get the learn process to work. I thought I was doing something wrong.  After failing several times I installed a new battery in the new remote. It worked on the first try. Enabled the hood ajar switch and remote start in Alfa. Reset the RF Hub. Drove around for 10 minutes and we now have remote start!
 
I cannot understand the whole oem remote start kit. It is not necessary. Just a waste of your money and parts/resources. I assume Chrysler knows people will be mad paying.. what.. $600 for a remote start and finding out you only need a key and hood ajar switch. Then 10 minutes to program everything. I would have been even madder knowing I spent that and only needed the software enabled and a new key. I guess the antenna may increase range but for our situation the remote works fine from the house.
 
I still need to get the wiring for the temp sensor and sun sensor installed. Hook up the 110 volt inverter and I think I am finished upgrading for now.

Ouch... an aftermarket harness would have cost $50 plus about 20 minutes. I got quoted $270 when I was adding my hitch, so went with an aftermarket. At least it's done. 

Apologize didn’t see that. I will keep my adventures with my Journey posted in here and also my TikTok @ghost.3_6 

http://5EFC7023-9D4D-4645-BFAD-F1C849B3035E_1_201_a.heicHello everyone! Still alive and kicking! Here's my 2013 Journey, now 10 years old with 166.000 miles. Had our first round of trouble where a valve cover gasket leaked, oil ran into the starter motor and shorted it out. Replaced the gasket, starter, battery, replaced the plugs with the intake out and changed the oil and filter. Three days later something sliced the passenger side rear tire on the Cross Bronx Expressway (shocker) but I was able to get the temporary spare on to get us home. New tire this weekend, and she runs and rides perfectly once again. This car has held up exceptionally well and still looks really good doing it. (I thought the photo would be attached but it's just a link to it, sorry)
 
 
5EFC7023-9D4D-4645-BFAD-F1C849B3035E_1_201_a.heic

well i went ahead and had the oil cooler unit fixed at the dealership as it seemed to be leaking a bit more  and I  didnt want to wait till i was on a trip and it goes out completely,new unit and gaskets and the threw in a free oil change as well and was covered under my max warranty with a $100 ded. no mention of the hours to replace it on the bill and also no mention of price on the parts but i would assume at least a $ 5-600 bill at least,,,,BAD thing is the said they have NO update on my abs unit that is on backorder oh well wait and see, i guess

Nice, huge win figuring out the camera without having to replace everything. That's always a great feeling. 

Nice, huge win figuring out the camera without having to replace everything. That's always a great feeling. 

This internet thing always brings us to the worst case solution. Cars, health, relationships. Doesn't matter. It is doomed.....Whatever the problem. It's terminal. Throw it away and start over!
 
Then after that terrified phase passes we realize it's usually the simple things. But Doom drives us to post about the impending doom. Then we assume the only logical outcome is the worst possible outcome.
 
Usually when the guy finds some cleaner and 10 minutes fixes it he disappears into the bowels of the interwebs. Never to be seen again in the doom post leaving others to assume it was even worse then first thought.
 
I am happy it worked out. And even happier you took the time to let others know that the dynamite was not really the best option... This time.

So last week I got in my DJ, drove off, and within a block it stalled and idled really roughly. The CEL came on as well as the traction control light so I immediately made a u-turn (as it died 3 times while doing it) and headed back home at a high speed of 20 MPH since it would not go any faster. After the typical reaction of SOB!!!!, I grabbed my reader and hooked it up to the car. Reader showed the following codes - P0345, P0390, P0339, P0365, P0365p/d - and all I could see was money signs flying away from me. Like your typical DIY'er I got on the computer and started looking it all up and it pointed to the Camshaft Position Sensor 1 & 2. Look up the part and it is a very affordable part...NICE!!! Unfortunately, to actually replace that cheap little sensor (X2) you have to dismantle the car and remove the intake manifold...DAMN. Well, I figured I am at 91K miles so might as well do the spark plugs, coils, and anything else that is called for in the 100K mile service AND I wanted the dealer to do it since I have not had any issues in the 7+ years I have owned the car. So I make a call to the local Dodge dealer and almost had a heart attack (Esther, I'm coming!!! for you older guys). The quote to get it all done was $2092 that also included a visual inspection of the brakes, hoses, belts, and fluids. Told them to remove that stuff I can do that myself - price dropped to $1982. They also mentioned that it would take some time to get the parts, about a week. 
 
Fast forward to the next day after I calmed down - I got on the internet to see how much parts would be if I did it all myself using instructions from this forum and YouTube, considering I have rebuilt cars in the past. I have no warranty issues to worry about and feel very comfortable doing this type of work. Here is the 'Holy Sh!&' moment. As I was searching the parts, there was an article on another Doge car that stated, "Make sure the connections are clean and tight on the sensor before doing anything else. You are able to reach the connectors without removing anything else". Hmmmm...I have nothing to lose so lets take a look. Headed to the car, started it up just in case it magically fixed itself and still got all of the codes. The car was idling rough and would not make it down the street without dying. So popped the hood, found the sensors, and cleaned them up really good. There was a bunch of dirt and some other crap on the connectors, so I made sure everything was off of them. Plugged them back in, got my code reader ready, and started her up. No CEL and no traction control light. I put her in Drive and she ran as smoth as the first day (or at least two days ago). Drove it a couple of miles jsut waiting for things to go bad, and NOTHING. Came back home, hooked up my reader and no coeds at all. It's now been 5 days of driving the DJ as I would normally and there has not been a single issue.
 
I am writing this because I always tell people to start with the basics before assuming. Sensors can be affected by a dying battery or a bad connection, which one of my mechanic friends reminded me of a couple of days later. I jumped to a very expensive conclusion and almost dropped the car off, if it wasn't for a delay in getting the parts in to the dealer. I am so thankful it worked out this way and I am still really glad I bought my DJ. Now I am starting to buy all of the parts for the 100k service and planning on doing it myslef this summer. 
 

@Dodgems I get a feeling you're kind of enjoying this project, and it's freaking amazing. Hope the wife is really happy with the results so far and the end result eventually. This is a great read... FOLLOWING!!!