bfurth

You couldn't pay me enough to put E85 in an engine (designed for its use). It gets 20-30% lower fuel economy than gasoline, is highly corrosive, and is the result of growing to much corn for the sole purpose of burning it in engines. It's a great concept, but it fails in practice.
Gasoline has more energy by mass than ethanol - the mpg ratings are proof of that. For that fact alone, I'll use gasoline.
Here's an Edmund's test with E85 for comparison: http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html

Pop the hood and look (get an assistant to run the washer). If you can hear the pump and the rear washer works, then it's most likely a problem with the lines in the front (clogged or cracked) - unless there are two pumps (I don't know). Running the pump while the hood is open will tell you where the problem is if it's cracked (it will be before any potential split in the line to feed both sides, otherwise you'd only have a problem with one of them).

Pop the hood and look (get an assistant to run the washer). If you can hear the pump and the rear washer works, then it's most likely a problem with the lines in the front (clogged or cracked) - unless there are two pumps (I don't know). Running the pump while the hood is open will tell you where the problem is if it's cracked (it will be before any potential split in the line to feed both sides, otherwise you'd only have a problem with one of them).

Okay, So here goes:

This is the location view of the wiring diagram for a 2015 Journey, you can follow the wire between the two yellow circles I made that run from the HVAC Control module in the center of the dash board to the sun sensor. The diagram for 2015 clearly shows the wire running on the passenger side where 2014 and before models had the wire running on the driver side. Pulling the glove box out may allow you to see if the wire is floating around in there somewhere.

This is to just give you an idea of what is going on inside that sun sensor.

This is how they say to remove the defrost cover. It just pops up. If you sit in the driver seat and look at the dash you can push down on the dash and get an idea of where the seam for the defrost cover is. The directions say to remove the A-Pillar covers first, which I found was unnecassary. Honestly I used a Torx head screw driver to get it started prying up (I had it in my hand from adjusting some headlights) and then just used my finger tips after that. however a small flathead screw driver would probably help avoid possible damage and best case scenario you would actually have a trim tool.

Once the defrost cover is off, you can see how easy it should be to slide that plug out and pop a new sun sensor in. The manual shows to use that trim stick again, however you can get it out with your fingers, I think a trim stick is over kill for this step. There is an indexing bump on the sun sensor so it will only go in one way, spin it, it will drop in.
In all you are looking at $50 for the proper headlight switch, $15 for a sun sensor, and it cost me $60 to have the dealership open the STAR case and flash the computer.
So once you verify that you have the necassary wiring you should probably coordinate with a dealership to have them add the LMG sales code to your VIN. I ran into a problem to start with becuase the dealership didn't want to flash the code becuase they didn't install the components and didn't want to be on the hook if the sales code didn't make it all work. Once I begged them to take my money we got the ball rolling.

The strap should prevent the seat from latching if it gets stuck vertically behind the seat (the latch is right below the strap, so if it's pointed down, it should latch). If it goes off to the side, just get a smooth dowel to pull the strap back up from either side of the latch. There are always many methods to fix a problem.
Glad you got it loose.

My wife's 2010 Chrysler Town and Country Touring sits in the driveway. My garage has too many cases to count of outgrown children's clothing, a chest with the power tools that don't fit inside the house, and a half-finished coffee/train table that I've been "working" on since last fall. Oh, and don't forget the pieces of lumber that will eventually become the base boards to the pantry (that takes up space that used to be in the living room) I still haven't primed and painted the drywall for (another project I started last fall).
But my Journey gets a bath every week!
I'm a lucky man - my wife hasn't killed me yet!

OK, finally had the time to create a quick playlist... IT WORKS!! Created one via Windows Media Player, copied it to the SD card and it showed up in the list when I hit the "playlists" button. I think this is going to work out fine as I can put multiple playlists on the same card.... will have my choice then, all depending on what I'm in the mood for.
And, Dave, some of the songs had the cd front cover show up with the song. Not sure if I want to go thru and add the jacket to ALL the songs, but it might be interesting to find out how it's done.

It changed for 2014 and newer Penstar 3.6 motors. The filter from 11,12.13 would fit a 2014 and most people don't realize the difference until they have no oil pressure and have issues cause they used the wrong filter. Basiclly just a tab added to the bottom of the filter

They redesigned the 3.6L filter in 2012(? - it might have been '13, I forget exactly when the change was made). The new engines have a bigger filter. In the old days (and with the 2.4L), you could just make a bigger filter that still fit the threads and didn't affect ground clearance. The 3.6L has a drop in filter (instead of the old canister style) and requires a new casting for that component, making the new one wholly incompatible with the old one.
Always double check your part numbers! Do not trust Amazon, Advance Auto, AutoZone, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, or anyone else. Go to the manufacturer of the part and check the vehicle compatibility from them. For example, Amazon shows that the L10241 (Purolator Classic) filter fits my '10 T&C (Chrysler 3.8L engine) but the PL10241 (Purolator ONE filter), identical in everything (except filter media to the L10241 and the ONE model has the rubberized coating on the can to make it easier to install) does not fit. Purolator says both fit (no kidding - it's basically the same part).
Always compare the old part to the new one before installation (and before removing anything that prevents return, if at all possible). If they don't match (and you don't know why they don't), don't install it.

Back to the topic at hand:
Hey, another Marylander! I bought my Journey to replace an '03 Malibu (and I also have 3 little ones - the third was just born 3 weeks ago!) Depending on their size/age, and the presence of a Mrs. (or Mr. - you never know in Maryland...) DodgeMD, the Journey might not be the best choice for you. It's not an off-road vehicle, even with the AWD drivetrain. If you are the father of a family of 5 (including spouse), and you have more than 2 kids in car seats, you lose a good portion of the cargo area. If it's just you and three kids, and at least one of them is 12 or older, then you've got plenty of seating and decent enough cargo space.
If you can bring yourself to do it, look at the Grand Caravan/Town and Country (you have 3 kids, you're not cool ). Uses the Pentastar engine (GREAT engine for that vehicle) and the same transmission as the Journey, but brings HUGE cargo space, lots of comfort, etc.
Either will make a very good family hauler, but the Journey is obviously MUCH more fun. It's a VERY competitively priced crossover (thousands less than Ford/Toyota/Honda/etc. equivalents with better basic equipment) and I've been very happy with mine for the 3 months I've had it (bad drivers hitting me repeatedly aside).

They redesigned the 3.6L filter in 2012(? - it might have been '13, I forget exactly when the change was made). The new engines have a bigger filter. In the old days (and with the 2.4L), you could just make a bigger filter that still fit the threads and didn't affect ground clearance. The 3.6L has a drop in filter (instead of the old canister style) and requires a new casting for that component, making the new one wholly incompatible with the old one.
Always double check your part numbers! Do not trust Amazon, Advance Auto, AutoZone, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, or anyone else. Go to the manufacturer of the part and check the vehicle compatibility from them. For example, Amazon shows that the L10241 (Purolator Classic) filter fits my '10 T&C (Chrysler 3.8L engine) but the PL10241 (Purolator ONE filter), identical in everything (except filter media to the L10241 and the ONE model has the rubberized coating on the can to make it easier to install) does not fit. Purolator says both fit (no kidding - it's basically the same part).
Always compare the old part to the new one before installation (and before removing anything that prevents return, if at all possible). If they don't match (and you don't know why they don't), don't install it.

The Powertrain Warranty covers everything from the back side of the throttle body (but not the throttle body itself) to the outboard CV joints on each axle shaft and everything in between (except hoses and the PCV valve, and probably spark plugs, but I don't remember off hand if they are covered items or not). All internal seals, mechanical components, etc. are covered for the length of the Powertrain Warranty. Wheel bearings are NOT part of the powertrain (even though it is the last component between the axle and the wheel).
If it moves, it's "consumable," it's just a question of how long it takes for it to break down. The headliner is not a "consumable" part, nor is your carpet. Wheel bearings can last quite a long time (my mother had an '07 Saturn Vue that still had the original wheel bearings on it when the rest of the suspension went up at 180,000 miles). They can fail at 100,000 miles (see my sister's (my old) '05 Cavalier). You might never have to replace them. It's a grease-lubricated ball bearing moving wheels with a rotational speed at the outer edge of 70+ mph for tens or hundreds of thousands of miles. Eventually it will wear out.
The good news is modern wheel bearings are a fairly easy DIY job (if you have the right tools). Most of the time, there is a single nut that holds the axle to the wheel bearing (and you need a BIG breaker bar to get it off if you don't have air tools). Once it's broken loose, the hub is probably only held in by 4 bolts (and there's a wheel speed sensor that needs to be disconnected as well). The worst part is taking the brakes apart to get to it - but since they're disc brakes, it's a relatively easy job. I changed out the driver side wheel bearing on that Cavalier in about 2 hours - having never done the job before in my life. The construction of my '10 Town and Country is similar (just differs in bolt pattern and torque specs, but that's what an extra 1,500 pounds of steel gets you), and the T&C/GC shares a LOT of components with the Journey.
If you are mechanically inclined, find a service manual (try Mitchell's or any of the other online options), get the appropriate tools (most auto parts stores loan them out for a refundable deposit), and get to it! If you can change brakes, you can change a wheel bearing.
As for what the dealer charged you for the bearing replacement, that sounds about right (1.5 hours in labor at $100-$120/hour, plus another $220 for the part, plus shop fees and taxes).

Right? 3 radiators in 4 years? Stop putting tap water in the overflow bottle. Distilled water and exact same coolant as originally filled only. HOAT and OAT do not react well with each other, and even worse with "universal" type coolants. And for heaven's sake, stay away from DEX-cool.
Also, can someone explain what a "caliper pad" is? I know what brake pads are, and I know what calipers are. I've never heard of a "caliper pad." Probably has something to do with headlight fluid.

Hey bfurth wait until you see my "racing air" in my tires.
Terry

I was going to say...
What would be the point of having an exposed cone filter to replace the existing air box? It's already sucking in air from outside the engine bay. It CAN'T get any colder than that (unless you put an AC evaporator in front of it). I really like the position of the stock design - high up, forward facing, with a large "filter" (the piece of rubber moulding) in front of it to prevent road debris from getting in. Why would you change it? Unless you're changing the overall path, but since the intake manifold is shaped as oddly as it is, what benefit is there?

Welcome to the forum.
We all know what you're talking about with regards to the intake ,
however the existing design of the DJ air intake path is "cold air
lead edge high pressure".
Admittedly it could be less restrictive in its path and flow volume
but with these highly computerized engine management systems
what you're really talking here is about "looking good" hot air under
the hood intake.

Enjoy your Chrysler 62te transmission. It's a feature. Happens in other vehicles with the same transmission.

Seconded on the flashlight not causing a battery drain. My T&C has one, and the Mrs. is knocking it out of the charger all the time (not that it works in the first place - we bought the van used and the flashlight has never worked reliably). It wouldn't cause any battery issues (unless you did something stupid to the charge receptacle on the vehicle). 5 year old vehicle with the original battery is getting close to borrowed time. A faulty cable will accelerate things.

Buy a multimeter (if you don't already have one). Set it to the 20V range. Attach positive leed to positive jump terminal (no need to get back to the battery just yet) and negative leed to negative terminal. Read the voltage - a good battery will be in the 12.5V neighborhood with the vehicle off. Get someone else to start the vehicle. Read the voltage again with NO electrical load (all accessories and lights turned off) - it should read in the 14-14.5V range. Have your assistant turn on the headlights - you should notice an immediate 1-1.5V drop, and then it should come right back up. If the battery voltage is too low to begin with (and you just replaced it), there is a good chance it's the alternator.
Also, the "battery" warning light is not a battery warning light. It's "charging system" (read: alternator) warning light that happens to be shaped like a battery. I have a 2010 T&C that had a P0562 (system under voltage) engine code when the battery died (5+ year old battery in the middle of single digit Fahrenheit weather, I'm not surprised it gave up). The only light that came on for the battery was the MIL (check engine).

If he's got a 3.5l engine (which the 2010 was the last year that was available), it uses 10w-30. It's an underbored version of the 4.0l of the same time frame. Chrysler eliminated the 3.3/3.8 and 3.5/4.0 when they released the 3.6l Pentastar in 2011.
Check the bottom of your engine oil pan - is it wet with oil? How about the valve cover seals? Head gasket? How does your oil look (frothy/milky?) Is there oil in your coolant?
If you are under the powertrain warranty (mileage is good, it depends on the in-service date, and with a 2010, you're pushing it). Call Dodge customer service and give them your VIN to check warranty status. If you are under warranty, you can take it to a dealer and have them check for leaks. At 1 quart/2,500 miles, they probably won't do any significant work (my experience with a 3.8l engine was the cutoff being at 1qt/1,000 miles). If you are out of warranty, the places for oil consumption I would look (besides the obvious exterior leaking seals) would be a leak down test and a coolant pressure test. If both of those pass, and your PCV valve is ok (just replace it, it's not much more than $10), then it's probably valve seals (parts are cheap, labor is not). If the leak down test fails, it's piston rings (have fun with that). If a coolant pressure test fails, you have a leaking head (and you will also have milky/frothy oil). In that case, get a new engine.
*I am not a mechanic. I only put out that which I have experienced. Take all of this with a grain of salt.

Chrysler cut quite a few corners across all vehicles up through the 2010 model year. Vehicles manufactured after 2011 (or had mid-generation refresh in 2011 or later) have been of MUCH higher quality. Compare the inside of a 2009/2010 Journey with a 2015. Compare the engine offerings for the Grand Caravan/Town and Country from 2008-2010 with 2011 and later.
Fiat, and the lead up to the takeover, has been VERY good for Chrysler. It should have happened without the cash of the US federal government, but that's a discussion for another day.

Chrysler cut quite a few corners across all vehicles up through the 2010 model year. Vehicles manufactured after 2011 (or had mid-generation refresh in 2011 or later) have been of MUCH higher quality. Compare the inside of a 2009/2010 Journey with a 2015. Compare the engine offerings for the Grand Caravan/Town and Country from 2008-2010 with 2011 and later.
Fiat, and the lead up to the takeover, has been VERY good for Chrysler. It should have happened without the cash of the US federal government, but that's a discussion for another day.

If he's got a 3.5l engine (which the 2010 was the last year that was available), it uses 10w-30. It's an underbored version of the 4.0l of the same time frame. Chrysler eliminated the 3.3/3.8 and 3.5/4.0 when they released the 3.6l Pentastar in 2011.
Check the bottom of your engine oil pan - is it wet with oil? How about the valve cover seals? Head gasket? How does your oil look (frothy/milky?) Is there oil in your coolant?
If you are under the powertrain warranty (mileage is good, it depends on the in-service date, and with a 2010, you're pushing it). Call Dodge customer service and give them your VIN to check warranty status. If you are under warranty, you can take it to a dealer and have them check for leaks. At 1 quart/2,500 miles, they probably won't do any significant work (my experience with a 3.8l engine was the cutoff being at 1qt/1,000 miles). If you are out of warranty, the places for oil consumption I would look (besides the obvious exterior leaking seals) would be a leak down test and a coolant pressure test. If both of those pass, and your PCV valve is ok (just replace it, it's not much more than $10), then it's probably valve seals (parts are cheap, labor is not). If the leak down test fails, it's piston rings (have fun with that). If a coolant pressure test fails, you have a leaking head (and you will also have milky/frothy oil). In that case, get a new engine.
*I am not a mechanic. I only put out that which I have experienced. Take all of this with a grain of salt.

I've found that the only way to get good service is to do it myself. I've found that the only way to get good service from a dealer for a reasonable price is to go in armed with knowledge of your precise warranty coverage and a good idea of what is wrong with your vehicle before walking in.
Doing your own maintenance is well within your rights under US consumer protection laws. Just make sure you keep records for the duration of your warranty/service contract coverage (and make sure that any contract you have is not voided by DIY). Doing the basic maintenance yourself will teach you about your vehicle, encourage you to learn more, and you will know what's wrong with it before the computers tell you. This is assuming you have space, time, and curiosity. The tools will pay for themselves.

P0452 is the fuel tank pressure - as the shop told you. I replaced oone on my last car (03 Malibu) when I put a new fuel pump on it. This was replaced because the labor to replace the pump was only 5 more minutes than the sensor alone. I don't know what the Journey fuel tank pressure sensor or fuel pump look like, but the basic procedure (if the parts are similar) is to relieve fuel pressure, drop the tank, remove the pump, and reinstall everything.
I would go the route of repairing/replacing the specifically indicated failed component before I replaced the catalytic converter.