redtomatoman Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 To all the brake gurus out there, here is my question. . . With all the comments and threads that this subject has generated, what really is the problem with the 2011 and early 2012 Journey brakes? Is the caliper size the problem? Is it poor quality OEM brake pads? Is it poor quality rotors? Is it something else? Is it a combination? I have had no problems with my 2011 brakes so far. I know for certain that the service manager at my dealership has the techs specifically look for brake problems or rotor warping when I'm in for an oil change. I realize that I drive only about 20% in town and the rest is highway. I may begin having problems with the brakes. If that occurs, just wondering what is the actual weakness of the pre-2012 brakes. Peace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) I would say that they are under sized for the weight of the Journey combined with less than stellar brake parts. Edited February 20, 2015 by Journey_SeXT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bramfrank Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 The brake issue goes back to the initial release of the vehicle, and as noted was mitigated in the late 2012 model year when they put in bigger disks (and by extension needed to put in bigger calipers). If you needed to change your disks anyway, you might decide to go with new, later version calipers and pads. But you can still warp your brakes and smoke your pads by driving like a hooligan. I had no issues over the 55,000 km I ran my '11 - and there was lots of pad left when I traded it in. Given the salty, sandy environment we drive in here for a quarter of the year you'd think that this would be one of the places where the problem would present most often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 The rotors are not big enough, which in turn means that the calipers are not big enough. The larger contact area of the newer brakes is what makes the biggest difference. Also, the quality of the pads and rotors are not quite where they should be. You could easily upgrade to heavy duty parts and keep the same brake component sizes and be just fine, but the bigger brakes do improve the performance significantly. ChopRod 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecrazyfoo4u Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Count yourself lucky if you haven't had any problems on your 2011! Our 2012 rotors were warped easily within the first few months of owning it. I just put on my own set of callahan brand (cheapo I know), and it's done steller for 40k miles now! The oem stuff is crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 (edited) My 2011 gets new rotors once a year.... I switched to 500℉ rated dot4 brake fluid which handles heat better. Semi-metalic pads also draw more heat from the rotors than ceramic pads. The pads take the heat instead of the rotors. Lately I've had no problems. Also it helps to slowly break in new rotors by avoiding hard stops for the first few hundred miles. 11JB you must be doing your own brake work if you are replacing rotors every year. Are you using the "good stuff" or just going with cheapies. My rotors will probably not last long either as I don't buy the high end stuff but I don't care once they warp I replace them with a new pair....no big deal. I always buy in advance when they go on special...I already have a set of brakes stored at home for the next time the brakes need to be replaced. Edited February 21, 2015 by Journey_SeXT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 11JB you must be doing your own brake work if you are replacing rotors every year. Are you using the "good stuff" or just going with cheapies. My rotors will probably not last long either as I don't buy the high end stuff but I don't care once they warp I replace them with a new pair....no big deal. I always buy in advance when they go on special...I already have a set of brakes stored at home for the next time the brakes need to be replaced. LOL i bought front and rear pads for my 2011 and did the rears but had planned on doing the fronts later on when they needed it and then ended up trading in on my 2014 and now i have some wagner thermoquiet pads that i got a rebate on and dont know if advance would do a return on them.........oh well thats what i get for planning ahead maybe they will take them back have to ask.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bramfrank Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Interesting . . . I did the same with a set of rear pads and a set of hardware . . . I thought I'd need to replace the rear (less pad left compared with the front for some reason) then got my '14. What DO you do with that sort of thing? Anyone in the Montreal area need a set of rear pads and hardware and want to buy them for a reasonable price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 I had a whack of maintenance items (and still do) from my Aveo. Spark plugs, wires, coil pack, oil filters and so on....everything that was close out prices at Rockauto. Well, the car got totaled a week after I installed the brand new drums, pads and exhaust and now I can't get rid of them. Even tried ebay with no success....I'm just gonna unload all of it on the next Aveo I see in a parking lot somewhere.....I know i might creep someone out but It's some good stuff I hate to see go to waste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bramfrank Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Nice of you to offer the parts on a pay it forward basis, but I have a suggestion: People may well be creeped out if you leave it on the car itself and it may well piss them off. If you leave it on the ground they could miss it. If I was looking to do what you are I'd write up a nice cover letter with an explanation and an inventory of what I have, put it into an envelope addressed "to you, the owner of an Aveo" and tell them that the parts are available for the asking at no cost on a first come, first serve basis - I'd have a few of these handy in my vehicle and simply place it under the windshield wipers, like a ticket. Do not use an inkjet printer for the letter or envelope - the inks are not quite as soft as they used to be, but many are still water soluble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChopRod Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Hi redtomatoman- I upgraded my R/T to drilled & slotted rotors from drilledrotors.com. No problems whatsoever the past year. Keeping the stock sizing is fine- just be sure to use quality parts. Many will choose to differ with me on the choice of rotors and you may do likewise. drilledrotors machine their own product in the USA. They also have a coating on them to keep the rust away. So far it has worked here in the salt belt. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 I put good aftermarket rotors and ceramic pads on my 09. First brake job was at 11,000 miles. OEM parts by dealer. Second brake job at 24,000 miles, this time all 4 wheels. This is when I put the aftermarket pads and rotors on. Now have 63,000 miles, haven't touched the brakes and they have a TON of pad left. If you use good aftermarket stuff, you'll be fine. At least I am! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtomatoman Posted March 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Hi redtomatoman- I upgraded my R/T to drilled & slotted rotors from drilledrotors.com. No problems whatsoever the past year. Keeping the stock sizing is fine- just be sure to use quality parts. Many will choose to differ with me on the choice of rotors and you may do likewise. drilledrotors machine their own product in the USA. They also have a coating on them to keep the rust away. So far it has worked here in the salt belt. Good luck. So far my brakes have been fine. Thanks for the tip. Visited the web site. They look good. Peace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfurth Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 LOL i bought front and rear pads for my 2011 and did the rears but had planned on doing the fronts later on when they needed it and then ended up trading in on my 2014 and now i have some wagner thermoquiet pads that i got a rebate on and dont know if advance would do a return on them.........oh well thats what i get for planning ahead maybe they will take them back have to ask.. If they are the 1326/1327 pad part numbers (semi-metallic or ceramic), they will also work on the same model year for Grand Caravan/Town & Country. If you still have them, it will increase your prospective buyer pool. I happen to have a 2010 T&C, but I just changed out the pads, rotors, and all four calipers!!! in January. I also bought my stuff through Amazon and only paid $70 total for the pads (Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic front and back). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyboy Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 Use the gears to slow the car instead of relying on just the brakes especially down hill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtomatoman Posted March 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 Use the gears to slow the car instead of relying on just the brakes especially down hill. Right! I do this. Really saves brakes. I can't get count the number of times I have smelled the strong odor of burning brakes from other cars on a long descent. I usually barely touch my brakes when I gear down slightly. Some may say this harms the engine/tranny, but if done easily it does not. Peace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journeyman425 Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Right! I do this. Really saves brakes. I can't get count the number of times I have smelled the strong odor of burning brakes from other cars on a long descent. I usually barely touch my brakes when I gear down slightly. Some may say this harms the engine/tranny, but if done easily it does not. Peace. You are right - it does not harm the engine and tranny to use the Autostick feature to slow the car if used properly. I use it all the time on my 300M; the car is on the verge of 300,000 miles on the original engine and transmission, and my brakes last longer, too. To mirror what some of the others have said, the problem with the earlier brakes was their size. The rotors, calipers and pads were undersized for the weight of the car. Minivans, too. There was a warranty extension on rotors and pads on 2008-2010 minivans and 2009-2010 Journeys due to overwhelming complaints (justifiably so) about premature wear and vibration. It wasn't until model year 2013, though, that the larger rotor/caliper/pad combination was put into production on both the minivans and Journeys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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