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2014 Journey 2.4 with red lightning bolt and traction control light on


Thomas112

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Hello,

 

I have a 2014 Journey 2.4 with some issues. The red lightning bolt (throttle control) and traction control light came on. The red lightning bolt comes on briefly and the trac light stays on. This happens at various speeds, and now every time.  I checked for codes with a generic OBDII scanner, but has none. The Battery  and alternator seem to be working fine according to the parts store. Not sure if anyone can help, but would like to get some intel before just throwing parts at it. I recently did a transmission service, by replacing the filter and fluid. I used the required ATF+4 fluid and Lucas additive. Surely this would not affect it, but it does shift funny. I do not have a complete loss of power like I've read others post on line. It seems to go in a brief limp mode, but the traction light stays on when this happens.

 

Any ideas????

 

Thanks in advance,

Thomas

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Throttle body issue or gas pedal position sensor issue. Try this:

  • Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" position but do not start the engine
  • Wait for all the warning lights to go out. The check engine light may remain on.
  • Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
  • Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it is all the way back up at the rest position.
  • Turn the ignition key to "OFF" position.
  • Start the engine and test the throttle by see if the engine will throttle up

If that does not work, you may need to replace the tb or position sensor, or there may be a flash update required by the dealer. Hard to say if there is no code present. 

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  • 2 years later...

Ive got that same issue as well going on with my 2014 journey 2.4l engine.  Ive changed out throttle body with new part now i get a obdcode p2173(vaccum leak)in which ive check an non are present, now i get the traction light coming on too.   What could be the problem??? Help ASAP??

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Was a new gasket used when throttle body was replaced. Doesn’t matter if it still looked pretty and clean. They get compressed and stay that way,  contour or shape will match the old throttle body flange. It also could be the large intake gasket on the manifold. Changing throttle body involves unhooking lots of stuff, double check all connections from previous work. Easy to miss something.


A generic cheaper scanner won’t always pick up all the codes. Newer expensive scanner like shops or dealer have, can sometimes do more. Gas pedal potentiometer is another lightning bolt causing sensor failure. With associated codes.

Edited by John/Horace
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Not sure about traction control light. It’s often turned on by a wheel sensor acting up. But lightning symbol triggering limp biscuit mode can cause weird stuff sometimes.  Deal with vacuum leak first. You  could have more than one issue.

 

How is electrical plug after switching throttle body unit out. 

Some people have issues with lock mechanism on plug being big pia, end up mangling plug. 

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You can’t get to the whole gasket, but where flanges are exposed lightly spray around as much of perimeter as possible.

Look at pic of manifold assembly. Fluid will flow around connections, listen for idle to speed up, you have leak location when that happens. Mechanics use this method sometimes.

 

New throttle body shouldn’t be bad,  more room around it. Car on ramps for max clearance.

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I posted a pic from rockauto on your other thread of intake manifold and gasket.


With intake piping removed look in the intake with car running, have someone press gas and you will see see butterfly moving slightly open if the plug is properly connected. There will be a few codes probably triggered by doing this.


Just turning on ignition and pressing gas pedal with car off might also move butterfly, not sure.

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Ended up taking it to mechanic down the block,he placed smoketest to search for vacuum leak and said it didnt had none. So went on to diagnose the checkengine light n yes throttle was reprogram n they cleared the codes.  Drove back home good.  Next morning, same problem,check engine light is back, red lightning bolt blinking, n traction control light is on.   Im wondering if the throttle body could be defective,maybe?

Should i just change it again myself n see if the problem goes away? HELP??‍♂️

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Just the Traction light is on?? or is the ABS and Traction light on??  the traction control works thru the ABS.. if you have a bad ABS sensor then both lights will be on!!  this has happened to me, i pulled each sensor and cleaned them with windex, put them back and light when out after a short drive.. never came on again since then and that was 5 years ago now!!

Edited by wpginterceptor
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Was the original throttle body you removed doing same thing, lightning bolt and same code ?
 

Was the second one you put on, remanufactured, or a new unit?  Hitachi is the factory make, rockauto sells it brand new.

 

What is the code that is now turned on since you drove car?

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Yes ,i would get the same codes before changing out oem part , now that i installed the new part ,(which i bought off carparts.com) remaufacterd part it still having same code. [Checkenginelightcode2173,blinking red lightning bolt,tractioncontol off warning light on dash]

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

‘14 I have the same ETC light , traction control light, etc about a year ago went into limp mode I pulled into a shop , a mechanic came out and told me the sequence to reset it, said if there is a real problem it will come back in but it never did now a year later same circumstances humid heat indexes 110 plus then rain and BAM thru the light again and limp mode and I’ll be damn if I can’t find the sequence but it was a key on, press pedal 3 or 5 times quick, wait 10, press and hold for 7 , wait 

but can’t remember anyone have it? 
I am going to go to dealership also cuz I just hit 100,000 miles so my guess needs update but would rather not have lights on when I do  

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55 minutes ago, Lori b said:

‘14 I have the same ETC light , traction control light, etc about a year ago went into limp mode I pulled into a shop , a mechanic came out and told me the sequence to reset it, said if there is a real problem it will come back in but it never did now a year later same circumstances humid heat indexes 110 plus then rain and BAM thru the light again and limp mode and I’ll be damn if I can’t find the sequence but it was a key on, press pedal 3 or 5 times quick, wait 10, press and hold for 7 , wait 

but can’t remember anyone have it? 
I am going to go to dealership also cuz I just hit 100,000 miles so my guess needs update but would rather not have lights on when I do  

A '14 model year wit the 4 cyl. motor and at 100k miles? Have you ever had the spark plugs replaced or had the throttle body cleaned? 

  With ETC light on, yes it will trigger traction control and other lights also as you try and drive with the ETC light on and in "limp mode".

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  1. Resetting The Throttle Body Calibration (this step is ... - UpRev

    uprev.com/documentation/Resets-for-Nissan...

    ECU Accelerator Pedal Reset Procedure Note Timing is critical for this to work! 1. Turn the ignition switch to on. Dash gauges lit. Don t start the engine! 2. Wait 3 seconds. 3. Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal 5 times within 5 second. 4. Wait 7 to 10 seconds. 5. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for approximately 10 seconds.

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Just now, 2late4u said:
  1. Resetting The Throttle Body Calibration (this step is ... - UpRev

    uprev.com/documentation/Resets-for-Nissan...

    ECU Accelerator Pedal Reset Procedure Note Timing is critical for this to work! 1. Turn the ignition switch to on. Dash gauges lit. Don t start the engine! 2. Wait 3 seconds. 3. Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal 5 times within 5 second. 4. Wait 7 to 10 seconds. 5. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for approximately 10 seconds.

found this by googling........ press pedal 3 or 5 times quick, wait 10, press and hold for 7 , wait 

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21 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

found this by googling........ press pedal 3 or 5 times quick, wait 10, press and hold for 7 , wait 

 

Nice find, but it says for NISSAN. never heard of this for any of the Dodge/Chrysler products.and I've been around them and on forums for them for a long time. Would be nice to know if this is "legit" for our vehicles.

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Is this what your talking about?
ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization:


Late LX/LC Model (5.7LTR HEMI) Charger/Challenger Throttle calibration procedure. It basically does a zero/span characterization
for PCM on fly-by-wire throttle system. This procedure if followed correctly will hold until battery power is cycled again.

PCM Zero/SpanThrottle Calibration

Throttle calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard." Many people notice what appears
to be sluggish throttle response or a "dead area" at initial accelerator depression.

Throttle calibration can take care of these.

Procedure steps:

1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
(HOLD to the floor for about a three second count.)
(On some PCM versions, Engine Check light may start flashing here)
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.

Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this
procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming.

NOTE: You will likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.

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