OhareFred

Along with the good information from jkeaton, I'll add that the DJ doesn't have the engine cooling or transmission cooling capacity required for any serious towing. The DJ's towing is aimed at a bicycle rack in the hitch or a small, open landscaping trailer. Before you rush out and buy an RV (travel trailer), even one within your DJ's weight limit, look up the frontal area restriction for your DJ. Regardless of the weight of the trailer, you will also find a "frontal area maximum" that is allowed. Frontal area and weight are the two biggest limiters for trailers. The ability to pull a large flat wall through the air at highway speeds demands much more from an engine / drive train, than does a smaller frontal area as found on popup RVs or utility trailers and boats. I've been RVing for quite a few years and the DJ is not a vehicle I would choose to pull an RV trailer.

Ok, since noone could really answer my question, I dove head first into it! You do not have to remove the entire hub to replace the studs. Plenty of room on the fronts.
Remove the tire, brakes, rotor and its simple. Just spin the broken stud to the front of the car and hammer it out. To put the new stud in clean the stud hole out ( I used a round wire brush). Insert the new stud. I put the rotor on with 3 lug nuts, then took a bunch of washers, placed them on the new stud with a matching nut (dont use the wheel lug nut, you'll damage it!). Tap in with a hammer until it wont spin. With a 1/2 inch drive ratchet tighten the nut on the washers. When it gets tight, check the lug nuts, snug them up again, and repeat. Look at the lug seat, when its flush on the hub you are done. Reassemble and hit the road! Remember, use a torque wrench on those lug nuts so you dont warp your rotors! Not a bad job at all....

Hey all! OK, maybe Costco didnt break it, but it broke when they were fixing my tire. 😄 In any event I have to fix it. I just replaced my front pads & rotors yesterday and used a torque wrench set to 105 ftlbs and had no issue, but stuff happens.
My main question is do I HAVE to take the wheel hub off or can I just punch the old one out and push the new one in??
Oh yea, 2009 R/T FWD.
Thanks in advance!

https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm
Someone posted this awhile ago and i saved it, not sure if it still works but it did....

Just to clarify, we are all Journey OWNERS, not necessarly LOVERS. Lol

Just to clarify, we are all Journey OWNERS, not necessarly LOVERS. Lol

Got mine taken care of about a month ago. Had a bad starter issue and while it was there they did the recall. I had also called the dealer and was told no parts, but what my dealer told me was they are replacing on cars having startuping issues first, then will get the rest when parts are more plentyful. Never had any issue with the old fobs. Dont hang ten tons of keys with you fob, youll be fine.

Since my last post, my Journey has required:
- Rear axle seal replaced (again)
- Transmission cooler lines replaced due to failure at crimp joint (NOT under warranty)
- Fog lamp assembly replaced because you can't just by a bulb
- Cracks appearing on both faces of the speedometer and tachometer
- License plate mounting bolts rusted into mounting rivnuts in rear hatch, resulting in rivnuts being torqued out of the fiberglass during removal and needing to be drilled out and replaced with well nuts
It has now been sold and replaced with a 2015 Subaru Outback. For those of you who have good luck with and continue to enjoy good success with Chrysler products - good for you - I was hoping to be one of you. Your experience however, does not negate my ownership experience. If I had been well treated by the service departments of the dealerships I visited regarding my vehicle problems, it would have ended up being an overall neutral experience. The fact I was continually trying to be upsold with unnecessary services, but fighting to have the broken things fixed has left me with a bad taste in my mouth and I will never buy another Chrysler product. As I said before, no vehicle brand is perfect, but I'm going back to what I've had the best luck with so far.

there is a recall on the ignition keys and switches in progress now. Perhaps yours is included? Your dealer would have to check, but not sure recalls count where you are. Good luck.....

Get the code read. Your car is telling you what's wrong. Post the code here if you need help.

https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm
Someone posted this awhile ago and i saved it, not sure if it still works but it did....

https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm
Someone posted this awhile ago and i saved it, not sure if it still works but it did....

Not entirely accurate... The PWM (pulse width modulation) signal can cause flickering even with a relay. The reason that they flicker is that the signal to close the relay isn't always 12v (to be specific, I think that most relays need a minimum of 9v to activate). PWM creates peaks and valleys in the voltage signal sent to the headlight harness; if that signal dips below the threshold of that particular relay it will open the relay and cause the light to shut off. Since this happens quickly it can cause flicker.
That being said, I don't believe this is an issue with the DJ. Perhaps the PWM signal is tighter and never dips below that threshold?

no kiddin...

no kiddin...

On a DJ? This isn't an off road vehicle. Stick with a Jeep

Possibly the belt tensioning idler pulley is failing.
The World Engine (1.8-2.0-2.4L) also used in the Caliber models has a much posted failure of the overrunning clutch on the alternators, starts low and ends up noisy like a diesel.

I agree. Look into the clock spring recall. There was also a recal for a wire loom, but I think that's was to the drivers door. If you try to fix it yourself, be careful of the airbag! Good luck!

There was a recall for the clock spring on some models. When you buy used, you take your chances. Could have been in a wreck....

I agree. Look into the clock spring recall. There was also a recal for a wire loom, but I think that's was to the drivers door. If you try to fix it yourself, be careful of the airbag! Good luck!

There was a recall for the clock spring on some models. When you buy used, you take your chances. Could have been in a wreck....

Try disconnecting the negative cable for 30 mins, maybe it will reset...

Bad brake rotors, loose tire, out of balance tires, worn ball joints, bad tie rod. If you can be a little more specific we can too! When do you have the problem? All the time, when braking, highway speeds, etc....

Bad brake rotors, loose tire, out of balance tires, worn ball joints, bad tie rod. If you can be a little more specific we can too! When do you have the problem? All the time, when braking, highway speeds, etc....

It shouldn't have any added costs. This is a software bug - a flaw left over from programmers who either didn't notice it, didn't think about it, didn't have enough time to test it completely, or lacked the imagination to attempt hacking into a car through a cellular network and attempt to take over the major vehicle systems through an open port accessible to the radio. Software code maintenance should be expected whenever you release an operating system (and let's be realistic here - UConnect is an operating system). If for no other reason than to allow continued compatibility with new phone software, UConnect should be getting periodic updates.
The hackers in question did not do this with malicious intent. This is not their first hacked car, and it won't be their last. I'd rather the flaws be identified and the manufacturer notified quietly so they have time to develop a patch to fix the flaw than to find out it's possible as the result of a deadly wreck.
The lesson learned by vehicle owners is that we are driving mobile computers. You patch them when updated software comes out - the manufacturer doesn't do things just because they feel like it. This is only slightly different than Microsoft or Apple releasing a patch regarding known flaws in their own software that would allow for the theft of personal data (name, Social Security numbers, date of birth, etc.) - and only different in the potential for immediate effect.
The lesson that should be learned by EVERY vehicle manufacturer is to pay external consultants to attempt break into your stuff. If they can, they need to provide full documentation as to how they did it, and they get put under a non-disclosure agreement until the patch has been out for at least a few weeks (to allow time for current owners to update their own vehicles).