jkeaton

I stumbled upon this "how to" guide as I was trying to find out exactly what the felt tubes purpose is in the air filter box. Anyhow, replacing the engine air filter is a pretty easy maintenance job for a DIY'r but for someone new to car maintenance who wants to try and save some cash this step by step link should help:
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Dodge-Journey-Pentastar-V6-Engine-Air-Filter-Replacement-Guide/
BTW we need a How To section!

I know,that is my car.I just simple asking opinion on the forum.The more opinion is always better to get proper conclusion.

Well then it wasn't stainless steel if it rusted.

It's your car. Do with it what you will. You don't need anyone's permission.

Actually, my Journey (brand new) didn't come with the owners manual but it did come with a quick reference guide and CD but not as detailed as the owners manual. That's why i provide the link for others so they know they are not SOL. People in their spare time should try to thumb through the pages as they would be amazed how much they will discover about the vehicle.

For any other questions about your vehicle you can also refer to your owners manual that I am posting in this link. http://www.autodealertools.com/quickQuote/manuals/2011/Journey.pdf

You're a poet and you didn't even know it.

If it were that easy, every manufacturer would include a CAI as stock; they are always looking for ways to boost HP without it costing them anything and a CAI is much cheaper to manufacture than the stock airbox, plumbing and resonators. Your 6-25 HP increases are statistically insignificant (numerically to a statistician) as "background noise" and well within the standard deviation of error based on friction at the wheels, humidity and temperature along with mechanical losses and gains of the dyno itself. Like I said, I used to build cars that developed far more HP and were much more sensitive to input changes. We went so far as to make sure each piston, wrist pin and crank weighed the same (balancing) and coated the piston walls with architectural dye (blue printing) to determine ring scrub...
If it were so simple (the CAI), Ford certainly wouldn't have invested the millions necessary to develop the Ecoboost turbo system. I'll quit; the CAI myth has been debunked by many ASE groups along with the above Myth Busters episode. It produces growl and that's about it. Most of the CAI units actually duct more engine compartment heat into the system (they are open and drafty as all get out on top) than the stock sealed unit that snorkles cold air from ahead of the radiator into the system that is predominately thin plastic (less of a heat transfer medium) than the heavy pipe (absorbs and holds engine bay heat) and thin stamped metal (a radiator of engine heat) that the box is made of in CAI systems. Do you honestly think that BMW, Mazda, Mercedes, etc. would pass up a means of adding 25 or more HP by leaving more expensive equipment off and substituting less expensive components?
End of my involvement...it's your money to spend any way you deem appropriate.

Yep, they are lying. But for $300 +, they sure do souond cool.

Hawaii,
The cold is the #1 killer of fuel mileage. That cold air your engine breathes in is much colder than the summer of course, which means the intake and combustion is different down to a molecular level. It's pretty interesting and enlightening if you ever felt like doing some research into it.
I like your handle, folks in Hawaii certainly don't have this problem lol. :shades:

I don't think it is the windshield being "loose"...if the seal was broken in an area, it would leak, but, wouldn't rattle. That laminated plate glass is very rigid and very heavy. Most likely you have a loose wiring harness or bracket under the headliner that, in very cold temperatures, shrinks a bit and allows a rattle. There are a lot of wires that travel all over the car under that headliner and can rattle in the right conditions. A good dealership can probably track it down, but, my WAG is something under the headliner and not the windshield, especially if it isn't leaking...
Keep us posted on what you find...

This isn't necessarily a bad thing. It could simply be an equalization of pressure in the AC system. If you are concerned take it to the dealer. If it's only 4 months old it's still under warranty.

Agree with you. Wish that we had the small diesel here.

Not here in the US. They don't offer the diesel here.

^^^ Wish they did....I'd be all over it!

ismir2k,
The extreme cold temperature in Quebec seem to be the cause here. Most cold weather noises are related to the thick oil in the cylinders which contributes to less effective lubrication until the engine warms and the oil thins out. I would suggest plugging your vehicle in so the block heater can be keep things warmer over night, even throughout the day if possible.
If this noise was present in all temperatures, I would suggest having your dealer look at it.

radame,
If a defect has been identified, the basic warranty (3/60 in Canada - 3/36 in USA) will certainly be applied to either the repair or replacement of these components.
You mentioned KMS so I'd assume you're in Canada, which means your coverage is up to 60,000 kms not 40,000kms. I would bring this to the attention of management at the dealer before you pay.
Keep us posted if any additional assistance is required.

I should also point out that there will probably be a certain degree of corrosion on the brackets that hold the pads due to the winter salt used in our colder climates. You should remove the stainless steel shims, clean the brackets with a file, then apply some antiseize to the area before reinstalling the shims. Also, lube the shims so the pads can slide easily. Proper lubrication of the moving parts will help to prevent the pads from sticking, causing premature break wear and reduced fuel economy.

Just remember, with any vehicle if it's idling fuel mileage = 0 mpg. Ain't no way of getting around it. And as with anything there are trade offs - if you let your vehicle idle a lot, don't expect good fuel mileage or anything approaching its fuel mileage rating.
I know you all in the Great White North have much colder temps than most of us in the US, but, in general, an engine will warm up faster if it's driven than if it's left idling. The engine creates warms up faster doing work than just idling doing little or no "work".
On a typical subfreezing morning, I have heat in my vehicles (Ram and Journey) by the time I've gone 2-3 miles. In subzero temps it takes a little longer, but not much.
Typically our Journey (3.5L V6) gets 19-20 mpg in local driving and 25-26 mpg on the highway.

What is an "AGR" valve?

^^ Yep, front pistons just push in, unlike the backs which need to be turned and pushed at the same time. Unbolt the calipers, remove the rotor, compress the piston, (remove the brake reservoir cap and check the level while compressing the piston as it could overflow), re-install. Dont forget to lube the caliper slides.

I had always meant to get this looked at and finally put an order (back order part of course) back in September/October when I had the brakes done. Due to some miscommunication, where they thought I was going to call back to schedule an appointment rather than them let me know when the part is in, we brought it up again last week when we lost two tires to potholes (we've been pretty damn unlucky with accidents with this car...4 accidents in less than two years and multiple tire hazards *sigh*) and had to get them replaced. Part came in end of the week and was installed today (dealership was extremely happy we didn't fill the tank up just before bringing it in..we were close to fumes). Anyway, went and filled up tonight; regular fill, stopped it when it clicked, and lo and behold, it shows a full tank for the first time . Part number is 5145614AB - Module-Fuel Pump Level Unit.
Cheers!
Steph S.

^^ Yep, front pistons just push in, unlike the backs which need to be turned and pushed at the same time. Unbolt the calipers, remove the rotor, compress the piston, (remove the brake reservoir cap and check the level while compressing the piston as it could overflow), re-install. Dont forget to lube the caliper slides.

It should be able to handle moderate mud and ruts with the right tires and driver technique, just know it's not a Ram and it's not a 4wd vehicle that is designed to go "off roading". Realize the vehicles capabilities before you get into a situation you or the vehicle is not prepared for.

Outstanding post