Journeyman425

The remote starter will only run the car for 15 minutes, then time out. It can be re-started remotely one more time and will run again for a maximum of 15 minutes, then time out if the start button on the dash is not pressed within that time. The car will not allow any additional remote starts until the dash button is cycled, which then resets the system. Trust me, it did not run for nine hours.That can only happen if you start it by pressing the start button on the dash. The O2 sensor voltage low is an unrelated issue. You could run the car at idle all day without affectiing the O2 sensor. Think of all the police/fire/emergency vehicles that are left running for hours on end - these sensors are designed for continuous operation. Now that the engine light is on, the remote start feature will be disabled - unless you cleared it with your code reader. Take it to your dealer for serv ice - unless you've gone over 36K miles, an O2 sensor issue is covered by the basic warranty.

Looks great! My pop-up is smaller and lighter than yours, but I used to tow it with my older 300M and was very much aware of it behind me. With the Journey I hardly know it is there.

Thanks for covering for me there, DF72! Turned my device off on Thursday and didn't turn it back on until Monday night - short but sweet indeed!

I ran your VIN - and interestingly enough, in the Options section of your build sheet there is already a sales code present for DRL. However, sales code LMK for DRL was also available for me to add as a Dealer option which is what we have been doing to enable them. Now, if you take your Journey to the dealer and have them perform a restoration, or reconfiguration, they *should* now work with your touch screen. Remember, they come on once you enable them in the touch screen and then shift into Drive or Reverse. They will not come on simply at idle in park. And when a turn signal is in use, the corresponding DRL turns off so the signal can be clearly seen by oncoming traffic.

Hi all - See you all next week - taking a little R&R with my family. Unplugging from the world for a little while! DJ will be parked and collecting pollen!

It's all good. Believe me, I'm only interested in helping out. Solving problems is my job. Creating new ones does not do anyone any good. You and I are in the business and we hear the horror stories all the time from other stores that are indifferent to customers' needs, or are incompetent, or worse, both - and I truly hate that. If it sounded like I was pointing fingers, then I apologize. What I read initially from the customer was that they took the car in and your WiTech system and/or DealerConnect would not connect at all. My offer was to add the sales codes so that all they had to do was bring it back and just have you restore it. So many places have no idea how to do this (which amazes me), but reading your posts now I see that there is a greater issue at hand. Thank you for clarifying.

I did, in fact, do just that - this is lifted from my previous post, above: "Anyway, I checked your sales codes and all the proper ones have been added by the dealership. The lights should work after a restoration."

Glad that it is being resolved. Smitty, thank you for coming to the forum to clarify and present your side. I read your screenshot. Is it possible that WiTech would not connect or initiate a restoration due to battery voltage @ 12.28? You and I have read the flash instructions which warn to prevent voltage from going under 13.2 and not over 13.5 although I've seen plenty of them fly under 13.0. The only thing I can think of regarding VIN validation is that the Crossroad trim level is brand new; has your system been updated since its release? Curious to know what resolves this issue.

You are correct in that the trailer tow harness will not have power to it until a reconfiguration is done after adding the correct sales code, which they have done. It is possible that their WiTech system was down while you were there - ours has gone offline from time to time - but it affects all cars which use the system, not a particular body style. Anyway, I checked your sales codes and all the proper ones have been added by the dealership. The lights should work after a restoration. There is also a fuse located under the passenger side of the dash - I believe it is a 20 amp yellow fuse but not positive - that protects the trailer tow harness. That was the first thing I looked at when my lights failed to work the first time I tried them. This was before I knew that the sales code still had to be added to my VIN despite the car coming from the factory with trailer tow prep. You might just check the fuse and a) make sure it's physically there, and b) make sure it's not blown. I'm sure it's fine and the issue is on the configuration side but it never hurts to check the basics. Interior Fuses The interior fuse panel is located on the passenger side under the instrument panel. Cavity Cartridge Fuse Mini-Fuse Description F100 30 Amp Pink 110V AC Inverter – If Equipped F101 10 Amp Red Interior Lights F102 20 Amp Yellow Cigar Lighter in Instrument Panel/Left Rear Power Outlet F103 20 Amp Yellow Power Outlet in Console Bin/Power Outlet in Rear of Console F105 20 Amp Yellow Heated Seats – If Equipped F106 20 Amp Yellow Rear Power Outlet F107 10 Amp Red Rear Camera – If Equipped F108 15 Amp Blue Instrument Panel F109 10 Amp Red Climate Control/HVAC F110 10 Amp Red Occupant Restraint Controller F112 10 Amp Red Spare F114 20 Amp Yellow Rear HVAC Blower/Motor F115 20 Amp Yellow Rear Wiper Motor F116 30 Amp Pink Rear Defroster (EBL) F117 10 Amp Red Heated Mirrors F118 10 Amp Red Occupant Restraint Controller F119 10 Amp Red Steering Column Control Module F120 10 Amp Red All Wheel Drive – If Equipped F121 15 Amp Blue Wireless Ignition Node F122 25 Amp Natural Driver Door Module F123 25 Amp Natural Passenger Door Module F124 10 Amp Red Mirrors F125 10 Amp Red Steering Column Control Module F126 10 Amp Red Audio Amplifier F127 20 Amp Yellow Trailer Tow – If Equipped F128 15 Amp Blue Radio F129 15 Amp Blue Video/DVD – If Equipped F130 15 Amp Blue Climate Control/Instrument Panel F131 10 Amp Red Passenger Assistance/Hands Free System – If Equipped F132 10 Amp Red Tire Pressure Module F133 10 Amp Red Spare Parent topic: FUSES

I need two more digits - they are actually two letters which precede the numbers you posted - beginning with "e"

Today marks one year that we've had our 2013 Crew. I have to say that I love this car even more now than the day we got it. 18,600 miles later, it goes down the road just as smooth, straight and silently as when new. And with the exception of a couple of stone chips here and there (which get touched up as soon as they are discovered) I could put the sticker back in the window and put it on the lot and one may not know it was used until they looked at the odometer. Here's to wishing all of you here on this forum a similar experience!

Not exactly looking down, but it gives you an idea:

Stories like this just kill me. Here's how we're going to try and help you: Please post or PM the last eight digits of your VIN number with your approximate mileage. I work for a dealer and will try to add the appropriate sales code to your build sheet options so that when you return to the dealership, all they will have to do is reconfigure your vehicle on their computer so the new sales code is picked up. That will enable power to the trailer tow wiring harness. A reconfiguration, or restoration, is much like restarting your home PC after a major update. The updates don't take effect until the computer is restarted. Same general idea here. A restoration takes about 10 minutes to do, and your selling dealer really should do it for you at no charge since they could not/would not do it for you the first time and now you have been inconvenienced by having to return a second time. Three hours to install the trailer tow harness? As you saw, it is one connection and then attaching it to the inside of the rear fascia. No big deal. Like yourself, I was surprised at the content of the Trailer Tow Prep Group. When I ordered my car, I immediately became suspicious of the content when I saw the price of the package. So, I knew to order a hitch as well. And like yourself, even though mine was built with the tow package, we still had to reconfigure the car to make the lights work! I'll never be able to figure the logic out on that one!

I don't find any more diagrams than what I posted above, but did find this descriptive if it helps you at all: 08 - Electrical/8A - Audio/Video/Entertainment/Connectivity/CABLE, Antenna, Satellite/Description The satellite coaxial antenna cables run from the radio to the roof mounted antenna. There are two coaxial cables that run in series. The first cable runs from the back of the radio through the instrument panel harness to the yellow fakra connector in the right cowl area. The second coaxial runs from the right cowl area up the right A-Pillar into the headliner and goes to the antenna yellow fakra connector at right rear center of the headliner.

2014 Journey: Antenna base, cable and bracket part #5064793AB Mast part #5091100AA Module - FM Splitter which mounts to the back of the radio - part #5091095AA

The omission of the LMK sales code is what I have been trying to figure out all along, and no one at Chrysler has yet to provide me with a factual answer. From a mechanical and engineering standpoint, the Journey for 2014 is identical to its 2013 brethren. The only changes are in color/trim availability, the addition of the Crossroad model (just a trim package) and a name change on one model from Crew to Limited - nothing more than a badge. I have run the VIN on several 2014 models trying to add LMK to the build sheet so that when the vehicle is reconfigured, the code is picked up and would then allow the DRL to be enabled via the touchscreen. The process involves logging into a vehicle options update section on Chrysler's TechConnect site. In this area, you type in the VIN and a drop-down menu appears with all the available add-on sales codes for that particular VIN. For 2014, LMK is simply not there. I ran a VIN for a Canadian 2014 and sure enough, LMK is present in the standard features section of his build sheet - logically so, as we all know that DRL are mandated in Canada. I simply do not know what happened to LMK for US 2014s. When you open a window in TechConnect to factory order a 2014, you are asked to select options that you want. DRL appears as optional for a nominal fee. So, my guess is that LMK has become proprietary to Chrysler at the point of ordering and is no longer allowed to be added at the dealer end. It is the only thing that I can rationally surmise, since LMK is still used to enable DRL in Canada. I would like to run a VIN on a US model 2014 that has DRL enabled to add credibility to my theory. Interestingly enough, as I mentioned in my previous post, I could have selected DRL as an extra-cost option when I ordered my 2013 Crew. My guess is that they (Chrysler) figured at the time that either they would charge for it up front or the dealer would charge the customer to enable it. Perhaps they've now figured that they could better profit by simply charging for it when the car is ordered and built rather than have someone like myself adding sales codes for our Journey-owning friends all over the country for free!

As per my last post, the GPS system shares the rooftop antenna.

I've been wondering where the pictures are...

I contacted the STAR (Service Technical Assistance Resource) center last month and asked how to enable the DRL on my friend's 2014 R/T if the sales code was not present in his database. I received a short and very cryptic response saying that if the code was not there, then it was not possible to activate them. I intend to follow up with them again and ask for a more detailed explanation, as none was offered. It's entirely possible that US models have to now be ordered with them. DRL does appear as an option when you order a 2014, but it also appeared as an option on my 2013. I did not order it, yet I was able to turn them on with the addition of the LMK sales code. That's all I have for now.

The roof antenna serves the GPS and all radio bands as outlined below. The remote start/keyless entry antenna is built into the Radio Frequency Hub (RF Hub), also as outlined below. I don't recognize the box next to your rearview mirror. It looks aftermarket to me but I don't know - my 2013 does not have that module, but is equipped with Nav, Satellite and Remote Start. 08 - Electrical/8A - Audio/Video/Entertainment/Connectivity/ANTENNA, Satellite, Audio/Description DESCRIPTION If the vehicle is equipped with satellite audio, a combined antenna for AM/FM and satellite and navigation is used. For AM/FM only, the antenna looks similar and is mounted in the same location. For more information (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8A - Audio and Video/ANTENNA, Satellite - Removal) . 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub)/Description DESCRIPTION The RF Hub (2) is located above the headliner at the tailgate opening (1). The Remote Start Antenna (if equipped) is connected directly to it. The electronic functions of the Radio Frequency Hub (RF-Hub) supports or controls the following: Immobilizer - Kills the engine when there is an unauthorized attempt to steal the vehicle. Remote Keyless Entry - This feature allows the FOBIK to lock, unlock or activate the Panic alert. If the vehicle is equipped with the Remote Start feature the operating distance is approximately 91.5 meters (300 feet). If it is not equipped with Remote Start the operating distance is approximately 20 meters (66 ft.). Keyless Go - With an authorized FOBIK in the vehicle this allows the operator to start and run the vehicle by pressing the Start/Stop Button (SSB) on the Keyless Ignition Node (KIN). Passive Entry - The Passive Entry feature of the RF-Hub allows the operator, with an authorized FOBIK in their possession, to open a locked front door or liftgate by simply lifting the handle. The FOBIK must be within approximately 1.5 meters (5 ft.) of the door/liftgate. Once all the doors and the liftgate are closed, the operator can lock the vehicle by pressing the lock switch on the door handle. Electronic Steering Column Lock - The ELV/ESCL is only used on some export vehicles. When there is an authorized FOBIK in the front seat area, the Steering Column Lock will unlock the column when the Start/Stop button on the KIN is pressed to the Run position and will lock the column when the button is pressed to the Stop position. Keyless Ignition Node (KIN) dimming control - The RF-Hub controls the illumination to the Keyless Ignition Node (KIN). Remote Start - This feature allows the operator to start or stop the engine from outside the vehicle. The FOBIK cannot be farther from the vehicle than approximately 91.5 meters (300 ft.).

You may have a short in the tailgate wiring harness. One of my customers had an issue with her reverse lights and rear wiper in her '09 Journey R/T. Both reverse lights work normally if the transmission were shifted into reverse with the ignition in the run position but the engine not running. If the engine is running and then shifted into reverse, one reverse light woudl go off and the rear wiper would come on. As soon as the gearshift lever was moved to drive, the wiper would stop. We located a short in the tailgate wiring under the tailgate panel and repaired it.

Check both inside front door lock butttons and make sure nothing has spilled on them or otherwise causing them to become stuck down. Operate both the door lock buttons on the front doors a couple of times and see if they work normally. Do you have any kind of aftermarket (non-factory) alarm or remote start added to the car? If not and If the problem persists, definitely contact your dealer for a warranty repair for this problem. If there is an aftermarket remote/alarm, try putting it into what is called the "valet mode" which bypasses that system and see if that changes anything.