Journeyman425

No problems last year with stock Kumho's and FWD. Our terrain is flat. Not enough snow here to warrant the purchase of winter tires, but it is sound advice for those who live where the snow is frequent. You'll spend a lot less money on winter tires than on the trade-in difference between your current Crossroad and one with AWD. Keep your car.

Cylinder #'s 2,4 and 6 are all Left Cylinder Bank. You will likely need the head replaced. It's not that big of a deal - it is time-consuming but not exceedingly difficult. When your car was scanned for codes, the misfire code may have been erased...or, it may have already had two good trips where there were no misfires. Three good trips and the OBD system will turn the check engine light off on its own accord. That is common with this problem - they do not necessarily misfire all of the time. Keep your appointment and have the problem resolved. No worries.

There have been several topics in various threads on this Forum regarding Daytime Running Lamps. For 2011-2013 models, if they were not equipped or working, adding the sales code LMK and performing a Vehicle Restoration or Reconfiguration would enable the DRL. For 2014, DRL has become a stand-alone factory option and can no longer be added at the dealer level. Anyone reading this Forum and considering the purchase of a new Journey that wants DRL will have to find a vehicle with the feature already enabled from the factory or, if ordering a new Journey, will have to factory-order the feature.

The official response from Regina @ DodgeCares - Sales Code LMK is no longer available to add at the dealer level for 2014/2015 - DRL is now a factory-only option. Thank you Regina for obtaining this information for us.

Chrysler has actually had that feature for years. My 2000 300M incorporates something called "grade logic" on its cruise control system. It also downshifts to 3rd (it's a four speed automatic 42LE transmission) if the speed increases significantly beyond the set speed. One thing that it does that the Journey does not is that when ascending a hill, the transmission stays in overdrive and the torque converter remains locked, using only the engine's power to maintain speed as opposed to downshifting right away to maintain speed. That irritates me to no end and it is so unnecessary. The 3.6 has more than ample power to maintain speed on most hills. Only if the speed drops with nearly full throttle applied will the 300M open the torque converter, and as a last resort will drop to 3rd to keep the pace. I think I only saw that once while driving 75 MPH on the Interstates in New Hampshire. I cannot understand why this programming was not incorporated in the Journey's 62TE transmission. If I ever get hold of one of the engineers, that's one question I would love to have explained. Like you, this car is also the perfect fit for us - I can't imagine a more ideal size and configuration. We're always comfortable and there's always enough room for anything we need.

Transmission range sensors are common to the 2009-10 model year. If, like bigtsr suggests, it starts in neutral, the TRS is a pretty good bet. There is a STAR case that instructs the tech to add a redundant ground between the battery negative and the tranny bell housing:

I checked the TechConnect site for any additional information. There are no provisions in the underhood Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) or in the fuse panel behind the glovebox to switch the fuse orientation to keep the cargo area outlet hot with the key off. My 300M has that provision as B4ZINGA stated, but the Journey does not. My suggestion would be to purchase a 10' extension cord (available on Amazon for about $10.00) and power the cargo area fan off of the hot outlet at the back of the center console and use the other hot outlet in the console as you have been. As long as the amperage draw for both fans falls under the 20A load limit for that circuit, that should work.

I think the reason why this topic has morphed into what it has boils down to something very basic. The car shows a feature that can be enabled if the owner so desires. Nothing happens when the feature is enabled. The owner inquires at the dealership level as to why the feature does not work. No one at the dealership level can provide a factual answer because the parent company has failed to issue such an answer on the matter. That's when the sparks begin to fly. I've said this numerous times before - I *think* the sales code has been made into a factory-only sales option. All I'm asking of Dodge is to simply confirm it. If so, then yes - either the car has it or it does not and let's move on. But no one at Dodge has confirmed my theory so for now, I'm guessing. My customers don't come to me for guesses, they want facts. That is the issue that irks me the most and is the reason why I persist.

Heard back today from Regina @ DodgeCares. Yesterday, I re-sent an edited/updated version of my original message that I had sent out in early August to her and she replied right away. I suspect she never got my original. She is in turn waiting for a response from her tech contact. Like me, she got mixed information from her sources and is trying to come up with some factual answeres to our quandary. She hopes to have an answer next week. I'll share with you all as soon as I hear.

Sorry to say but same deal as 2014. Worth a shot, though - thanks for providing me with the info. This is very frustrating for me as well. No one has given me any clear, factual answer as to why sales code LMK has disappeared and yet the capability to toggle the DRL on and off remains on the radio screen. I'll keep after it on my end but even STAR gave me no more information than what they wrote back to your manager... and I've made two detailed inquiries and also sent a PM to DodgeCares here on the forum and have not yet heard back.

I've run a VIN or two with DRL listed as an option. As a manager, I have access to the order pages on our system, and I've "built" a couple of vehicles just for kicks (and deleted them before actually ordering them, of course!) and yes, DRL is a stand-alone option. Interestingly enough, it was a stand alone option when I ordered my 2013 Crew as well, but as most of us know now, all that was needed to make them work was code LMK. I concur with what you say about removing the option from the menu screen altogether. Either offer it or don't. Clear up the manual so that it does not lead people to believe that the vehicle has a feature when it really doesn't. What I am waiting for Dodge to confirm is my theory that sales code LMK has become proprietary to the factory and is no longer available at the dealer level, which all indications point to being true. They can add it but we can't. You are correct in that the cars are identical in every way to 2013 except for the addition of the Crossroad which is strictly trim items and some badge engineering, i.e. the change in the name from Crew to Limited.

I haven't tried a 2015 VIN yet - if you wish, post the last eight digits of the VIN with approx. mileage and I'll try it. No luck with any 2014's.

It is a stand-alone option that can be ordered from the factory. I think it is nothing more than the factory adding the sales code LMK and simply charging for it as opposed to us being able to add the code at the dealer level up unitl model year 2013.

Had it replaced yesterday and now all is well.

Wow, that looks really cool! Love seeing the Crossroad in my color! Tell me more about the rear fog lights - are they aftermarket or is that a new Mopar accessory that I'm not aware of? Off to my Mopar catalog now to look! How do they wire up and how difficult were they to connect to the existing wiring?

I concur as well - my 2013 Crew has the same opening. It appears to be for access like Webslave has indicated. If I come across any more info I'll pass it along.

My new radio awaits installation at my shop for the same issue.

I sent Regina from DodgeCares a PM on the 8th about the DRL issue, and am waiting for a reply. She may be on vacation.

Love cycling - given up a few wax jobs on the Journey to be on the bike!

Yet another Copper Pearl! Ya gotta love it! And yet another apology - no go on the DRL for yours, either - see my last post, above. Sorry guys.

Sorry to say that I have no magic I checked your VIN and verified what your dealer has told you. Despite the fact that the option remains on the screen to enable and disable the DRL, the sales code that is required for them to operate was not ordered by your dealer when the order for your Journey was placed. Up untl model year 2013, the sales code for DRL could be added to the car by the dealer, but that was changed for 2014. I would love to see some pictures of your Crossroad - I am partial to Copper Pearl, as you may be aware...

I've come across that occasionally. It's an impression from a barcode label that was affixed to the mirror by the mirror manufacturer. A couple of rounds of glass cleaner should eliminate it.

Correct - the upper intake manifold must be removed. Unless you have the correct tools and experience, this should be left to a technician whose skill level is commensurate with the job. Going by the Labor Operation number assigned to this job by Chrysler, I would have to delegate this job to one of my techs whose training level was second highest or highest (level 2 or 3) in order to submit a warranty claim in the event that we were doing this job under warranty. Here's an overview: 08 - Electrical/8I - Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition/Removal 3.6L Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 1 and 3 on the RH side of the engine, first remove the resonator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal) . If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 2, 4 or 6 on the LH side of the engine, first remove the upper intake manifold (2) and insulator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal) . NOTE: The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar. Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the ignition coil. Remove the ignition coil mounting bolt (3). Pull the ignition coil (2) from cylinder head cover opening with a slight twisting action. And now for the intake manifold removal: 09 - Engine, 3.6L / Manifolds / MANIFOLD, Intake/Removal UPPER Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the engine cover (1). Remove the resonator (1) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal) . Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7). Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (8) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness. Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3) vapor purge (6) brake booster (2) Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Disengage the wire harness retainer (3) from the studbolt (2). Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (2) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1). Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2). NOTE: The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold. NOTE: Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Remove seven manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2). Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1). Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine. If required, remove the insulator (2) from the LH cylinder head cover. As I stated earlier - my feeling is that your misfire is head-related. Yes, it could be a bad coil but usually that is accompanied by a dead miss and a flashing engine light, neither of which you stated are occurring. You also may have a bad injector as well. They often give the same symptom as a bad coil but sometimes not as severe. Have it diagnosed at a reputable dealer. If you end up needing a cylinder head, the head will be covered by the 10 year / 150K warranty extension which was recently issued by the factory.