JohnnyRevs

Downside is that they don't like being in a discharged state for any length of time - e.g. if you have a battery drain, as I found out to my cost - my EXIDE AGM battery lasted little more than a year. And that battery was rated at 800CCA ! (I'm investigating whether the warranty will cover).

Hi guys, 'satisfying to watch - deep clean of a disgusting Dodge Journey - just shows what can be done if you put your mind to it! Well done Mr Geek!

Hi guys, 'satisfying to watch - deep clean of a disgusting Dodge Journey - just shows what can be done if you put your mind to it! Well done Mr Geek!

Thanks for those - I'll try Locosiete's suggestion first and if I get nowhere I proceed with 2Late4U's. Pretty sure there's no tracker on it but I have also heard of dealers doing that too. I had the car since new and it was mostly fine since then. It's just the last while that it's been acting up. I'll come back when I have some news (hopefully). Cheers guys :-)

Thanks for all your replies and suggestions. There are no bluetooth or other modules plugged into the OBD port. Also, I waited a good hour before doing the draw test. I checked the glovebox light using my phone to video record and it appears to work correctly (thanks Locosiete). The trunk light is visible from outside the car and turns off after the usual delay Incidentally, when I pulled fuse M20 as mentioned, the load dropped by nearly 2.5 Amps, however, when I replaced the fuse, the load did not return until I restarted the car (and then does not shut off). Oddly, I sometimes see a flickering light coming from under the driver's side dash (right-hand drive car). This only occurs when driving and I can't see anything obvious when stationary. I've no idea what this is - it seems to be too low down to be from the cluster. I guess I could do an aggressive wiggle-test with the wires up there but it's hard to get to. The only way I can think of narrowing it down is to start pulling bulbs or modules out from inside the car and see if anything presents itself. Any other suggestions much appreciated...

Hi guys, I'm also experiencing a drain on the battery - I ran the parasitic draw test and found that fuse M20 is drawing around 2.5 Amps. This supplies the EVIC, interior light & steering wheels controls. No interior lights are on that I can see. I know the EVIC does display "Hood" on the cluster when the hood is open but only if the door is open at the same time AFAIK? Surely, it wouldn't draw that kind of current in that case?? Also, found the following fuses drawing current:- M13, Cabin Compartment Node & Multifunction Switch / Siren Module, appears to be drawing 0.05 Amps (50 milliAmps). Is this normal? M12, Radio Amplifier, draws 0.12 Ams (120 milliAmps). Again, is this normal (it does host clock etc) ? Any thoughts on above and what specific components to look at ? Many thanks

Well, if its turning over, try to narrow down the issue - you need spark, fuel and air. Have u plugged in a diagnostic scan tool?

Check out https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/ as they have parts diagrams - very handy! They supply also though I haven't used them as I'm a wee bit far away and shipping would cost an arm and a leg! Good luck with the fix.

If the battery is good, the engine should at least try to start - if the voltage is over 12, it will usually turnover. If the starter is stuck you could try tapping the solenoid with a hammer - might be enough to free it (worked for me recently). IIRC, there is also a switch on the transmission that tells the ecu that its in Park and ok to start. Suggestions only I'm afraid as I do not have an auto. Good luck with it.

+1 Holy cow Batman. Another example of saving cash short term costing more long term :-( Good luck with it - worth doing an engine clean if you can get it done. Not sure what the best home-remedy is for that tho - needs some research I think.

Just completed a big overhaul on my 2010 Dodge Journey CRD SXT with around 120,000 miles on the clock. I'm posting this thread WRT the injectors & wiring loom in case that it helps someone in a similar position. After replacing the clutch, flywheel and refurbishing the turbo, I got the car back together and up-and-running only to find diesel escaping from the inlet manifold at the front of the engine. Only place this could come from was the injectors, so I whipped these out and sent them for repair. I probably could have done this myself - these are Bosch injectors that, as I found out, are generally very durable and all that goes wrong is the failure of the seals. This cost me only €168 for all 4 injectors and done by a professional here in Dublin, Ireland. Very reasonable. Got a quote for new injectors from Fiat-Chrysler of €1300+. On removal of the injectors, I inspected the wiring loom only to discover several cracks in the casing of the wires. The loom is encased in the top of the engine, under the cam-cover so subject to hot oil sloshing around which degrades it over time. It made sense to replace this whilst I was there in order to stave off future problems. On going to FCA for a replacement, I was quoted a staggering €950 + VAT. Car is only worth around €3K at this stage so I looked for an alternative. Happily, I found what looked to be the exact same part, albeit with a different part-no, for around €130 incl' VAT & shipping (£112 GBP) ! It was a calculated risk but worth it. So if you have this issue, check out this part here:- https://www.vag247.com/en_US/p/Injector-wiring-loom-with-glow-plug-connections-2.0-TDI/1133. Note, the VW designation for this engine is BKD. Fitment is exactly the same. For the record, the original VW part no fitted to my engine is 03G971826A. The replacement part no is 03G971033L (as shown in the link above). I could also have sourced this part from Skoda (which is part of VAG) for €154 incl' VAT, so what are FCA playing at with their pricing? I'm happy to report that the car is now back to normal and running very well. I'm pleased I was able to complete the work at reasonable cost :-) Pic attached showing the top of the engine, injectors in the middle of the pic & loom just below

Ok, good advice I think. I was uncertain to buy from eBay for the reasons you outlined. With no idea of the quality, probably best to get the oem parts. I can afford them but didn't necessarily want to if avoidable. Many thanks- you helped me to decide.

Does anyone have any opinions / observations on the quality of the Motor Mounts as listed here:- https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Quality-Engine-Trans-Mount-3PCS-Set-for-2009-2010-Dodge-Journey-FWD-2-4-3-5L/163052920565 They state "good quality" but I could also claim to be descended from Kings - just cos I state it doesn't make it true! I need to replace all 3 motor mounts as shown in the link - they're very good value compared to my local dealer prices - I was quoted nearly €450 for these, compared to around $120 for the eBay parts (inc shipping & import)! Also, the part nos are not an exact match but very close, and the pics look identical - any observations on that? My Journey is Diesel powered so fairly high torque - is this a reason for different part numbers, even though they all look the same ? Any advice much appreciated. Thanks & regards

If its just your slide pins at fault, then I think that should be inspected / serviced under a normal standard service. If the same dealer has previously serviced the car and neglected this, then they may be covering their own ass by passing it back to you. I'm distrustful of dealers at the best of times! FYI, I've had to replace 2 calipers in 8 years of ownership (since new), 1 after 5 yrs & the other just last month. IMO, I don't think that's too bad. I now do my own servicing & maintenance, so I've just myself to blame. Not necessarily a good thing! ;-) Overall, though, I like the car & its given me good service over the years. If I could buy a new one, I would (NLA in Ireland). Good luck

As you're new to the DJ, the link below may be of some use...though you may be better to go to your local dealer... https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1614595&ukey_make=1062&ukey_model=15496&modelYear=2017&ukey_category=20301&ukey_driveLine=10053&ukey_trimLevel=25160

Never mind, telepathic post simultaneously (almost) on the Exterior & Body sub-forum, replied by J Keaton . Thanks J & Brent G ! :-) BTW, think it would be worth combining those 2 sub-forums into just 1 !

Out of interest, do you know if the 2011 onward (or later still) grills will swap on to a 2010 car? 'Was thinking of getting a blacked out one similar to the new crossover models but I've not heard (or seen) of anyone doing that The overall shape & size of the new grill looks very like the old one(?) .... Murkies!

As an FYI, for diesel owners in Europe or elsewhere, there is an additional fuel filter at the rear of the engine bay, adjacent to the ABS distribution unit (see pic attached). It is a cylindrical type, secured by a T30 Torx bolt - the hex-head bolt just stops it rattling but the torx-bolt holds the clamp in place & is hidden behind one of the pipes shown in the first picture. If your engine is running a bit rough, then the first thing that should be done is to change the fuel filter, especially if not done for some time. Dodge recommended interval is 36,000 Km. That was the last time I swapped mine. However, based on my experience, I'd shorten that to every 24,000 km. Its amazing the difference it can make - now feels more powerful and much smoother than before. When I emptied the old filter, I was surprised at the blackness of the fuel that came out. One thing to note is that its very easy with this type of filter to leave a leak - the o-ring that is situated at the top of the filter tends to get caught is the securing "tang" that holds the main fitting in place. I found the best way to fit without a leak was to remove the joining unit for the 2 pipes (pic2) and fit this off the car. Hope this helps someone.

To keep costs down, perhaps some of the components you could get from a breakers e.g. foglight housings / grills etc (as per JKeaton) ? But, I'm not familiar with your warranty terms - must be 5 year I'm guessing ? Warranty may not even cover those components so it might be worth re-reading it.

Apologies, I'm a bit late on this thread so you may have the problem fixed by now. If not.... There are 4 things here that could go wrong - 1. the switch for the window 2. the window regulator - this is the mechanical unit that slides the glass up and down. 3. the window motor - this is the motor that powers the regulator up and down. 4. Body control module (BCM) - this is the ecu that governs and monitors the various body-related systems such as doors & windows However, if you can hear clicking, noises etc, it means... - the switch appears to be working - the motor is trying to power the window - the BCM seems to be functioning normally So, IMO, that means either the motor is not functioning correctly or the mechanism (regulator) to slide the window up and down is jammed. If you have the time and inclination, you can remove the inner door lining (easy when you've done it once), and after re-attaching the electrical connections, press the switch to see what's happening. If there is clicking occurring, it could be that the regulator is jammed and cannot move the glass. It could also be broken teeth or something similar on the motor itself. You won't know unless the door lining is removed and you take a look at the components. BTW, you can use the following website to get an idea of the components involved. I've narrowed it down to 2013 MY door components. The website also gives you an idea on parts-cost. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1117260&ukey_make=1062&ukey_model=15496&modelYear=2013&ukey_category=20305 HTH!

if you're heading to the UK, you could check some breakers yards for parts for the Dodge Journey that Chrysler stopped selling in the UK in 2010. Its possible they'll fit (design looks very similar IIRC) but you could probably drive in there and check the compatibility before handing over cash? Try http://www.chryslerbreakers.co.uk/ for example. You could also take a look at the http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/ to see if the catalog contains similar references to the Fiat website? Not sure if helpful or not... Alternatively, and temporarily, you can buy stick-on beam deflectors that will allow you to drive the car in the UK - same as every tourist fits to their car when they cross the English Channel. I doubt you have to register / test the car immediately upon arrival in UK (but I could be wrong!) No need to panic just yet, I think..

Could be the pistons seizing up in the caliper -it can happen if the boot gets damaged and water / rust gets in so the piston doesn't slide easily anymore. Happened on one of my rears where the boot was damaged. I just put on a new caliper for around €50 (fitted myself) - was cheaper than replacing a set of tyres! If its recurring, I suggest new caliper or, you can probably get a kit to service your existing caliper if you want to save cash and have time to spare - this will mean removing the caliper and disassembling and cleaning the piston. They usually come with new boots too. It takes an hour or 2 but is quite satisfying when it all works afterwards. I wouldn't ignore it too long however - you'll end up having to get towed and paying through the nose to have it done urgently, not to mention the cost of a replacement car while its off the road.

Here you go. Was just posted recently on another thread...

I too used to hear a creaking noise on one side that sounded like grease was needed somewhere on the front suspension. I had it checked out at the time but nothing was found to be amiss. In the end, I got so used to it that I stopped hearing it. I only noticed it again when the noise disappeared, which happened after I had replaced a front control arm due to a worn bushing. However, I'm sure I read on this forum about applying lubricant to the lower front control arm bushings to dispel the noise. You could give that a try to see if it helps?

great that you can do all that yourself - I had to change a front-top shock mount and bearing - not an especially tough job in itself but my problem was undoing the 18mm nut on the drop links for the sway bar. It's worth giving these a thorough clean-up and lube before undoing. Also found that a narrow 18mm open-end spanner would have helped (if I had one) to hold the balljoint on the drop-link in place - I wasn't comfortable using the torx bit as I thought it would spin out. It held out for me in the end. Took me over half-a-day to do this job because of that darned balljoint. Found this video on Youtube to be helpful in outlining the procedure...