Journey_SeXT

If I ever do this job I'll post the step by step pics but I'm still a whiles away from replacing them...I'm looking forward to do this job as I'm sure the cost savings and challenge will be rewarding.

Here is probably the best video you are going to get on a spark plug replacement for a 3.6L engine --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3SqhKgoRcc

Let me know if there is anything else you need instructions on.

1979 Camaro
1989 Hyundai Sonata
1990 Acura Integra
1996 Honda Civic
1999 Honda CR-v
1999 GMC Savanna
2008 Chevrolet Aveo
2011 Dodge Journey
2014 Hyundai Accent

Ignore him. His mother dropped him on his head when he was a baby and he's never been right since . . . . .
So, just cruising along and shutdown? The weird part is that it restarted by itself . . . . I'd have expected it to have required a manual restart.

This is not an easy one to diagnose . . . . when it restarted was the check engine light on? If it was, then if you'd been able to read the code you may have gotten a clue. Code readers can be bought in the orient for little money and if the light was on it might prove to be a good investment.

I had a similar instance with my Jeep Commander, except that the engine did not go off/on. It may have been an electronic hiccup with the TIPM. Try disconnecting the negative terminal on your battery for a half hour or so to reset the entire system. Something needing to be reset in the transmission would not cause the engine to shut down and then come back on by itself.
Your English is fine.

I agree with dhh3 - I can't hurt to reset the vehicle with a battery disconnect - but I personally have my doubts that the transmission controller (rather than the transmission itself) caused the problem, though, being a computer it probably locked up with the power glitch, which is why it worked after the restart.

A neighbour of mine who had the 2010 Journey had to get rid of it due to his coolant leaking and then absorbed into that rubbery material. He claims there was nothing they could do to get rid of the smell. I hope your situation turns out better than my his.

I agree with RTM and go with the better quality brakes instead!!
Personally, IDK if I would even bother doing an upgrade in a bigger brake on my 2011....I think I'm at the point of upgrading the vehicle instead. I just recently changed my rotors and pads with the Wagners. It's no big deal for me keeping the original brake setup even though they need replacing a little sooner than the bigger brakes found on the later models. Personally, I love doing brake work so having it done a little sooner is a real treat for me and for my kids who are learning how to do brakes. From now until my next brake change I just purchase brake parts bit by bit when they go on special and by the time I'm ready for my next change in a few years i'll have all the parts needed & purchased at a great price.

In late 2012 FCA started using bigger rotors and calipers on the Journey. This was a response to complaints that the brakes were too small and would warp - interesting enough the factory brakes on my 2011 Journey were still good when I traded it at 54,000 miles - so it is likely partially a driver thing and the luck of the draw.

Note that you would need to change the rotors, calipers and brakes to upgrade. If you have 16 inch wheels you will also need to change them and the tires that are on them.

There is a post somewhere on the board, complete with photos of the conversion.

EBC rotors & pads. You'll be set after that.
Peace.

Welcome to the forum. If you just got it, can't you take it back to the dealer?

The
I would definitely go the Monroe quick strut route without the hassle of compressing the coil springs but to answer your question on finding the nearest place to compress.....http://www.ebay.com/bhp/strut-spring-compressor-tool

CV joints click when they begin to fail. Check the boots for tears. If torn, the oil/grease will leak out, and the CV joint will fail.

should still be under factory warranty take it to the dealer if so.good luck

Struts, loose lug nuts, CV joints, could be anything.

Check the lugs on both front tires, maybe you get some loose.

Still plenty of vehicles use the standard type oil filter.

to be honest i've seen some places that charge more for their oil filter than what the dodge dealer charges for it. but either way shouldn't be more than $12. max also be careful about which oil filter they use, the 3.6 uses different filters depending on which year vehicle you have. quick change or small oil change places MAY not know this... check with your dodge dealership and they will show you the difference in them... my 2014 3.6 takes a different one than my 2011 3.6 did......

well you might be right on an experienced mechanic could change it out faster than most people BUT when your 300 miles from home and no tools or even wanting to try and change it out. at least it is covered for my peace of mind for as long as i own it by using the dodge dealership . I was just putting some info out there for the other readers to hear as he said also that he has seen a few of these sender switches go bad. plus the switch at auto zone was about $30-40 so of course the dealers price would be more. and as for the lights maybe i did buy a cheap set as you say they are but they are on and looks like they are throwing more light then my org. ones.i didnt bother to check the cutoff as you are saying,but drove them down the road and no one was flashing me so i would assume there is no problem there... thanks for your input no matter on how negative you always seem to be.....I also was pointing out that this was a covered part on the extended unlimited yrs. and miles warranty..

Welcome to the forum. Since you bought it it used, it is "used" to the previous driver's habits. Have the Dealer recalibrate it for you. Then, drive it normal for you. It will "learn" your driving habits and adjust for you.
I bought mine new. I rarely feel it shift.

So they're doing something like this?

...
just teasing, of course.

Found this Service Bulletin....dunno if this helps anyone.
Front strut.pdf

Return it- sounds like the oil isn't making to the top and play them the video you have used on here its not right

I suspect a timing chain guide issue, or cam phaser on the head that was replaced. The guides are sensitive to re-installation and must be done just so. It is not a normal noise; return it and have it corrected.