bramfrank

Yes, the Crew is an enhanced SXT, though you can add all the bits and have a Crew that has the same accessories.
The obvious question to ask is 'why'?

That noise is how the wear indicators work.

Yeah, some of the dealers (maybe a majority of them) seem to have their heads up their butts or are simply very greedy. I'm lucky in that the dealer that sold me my last 2 Journeys is a listener and is willing to help. While he is a big proponent of upselling, I am immune to his sales pitches on that score.
But here on the forum we do have a friendly service manager or two here that can help you out. They can update the database with the sales code and then you simply have a local dealer REFRESH the vehicle, and if he wants to charge for that you may be able to convince him not to.

The first one is a possibility if it works. The second one is not. The price for the one from the Journey is, to my mind below the threshold of pain, so even if it doesn't work you can always go back to eBay and buy another and still have hundreds of dollars left in your pocket - and once you figure out how to access it the first time it becomes a much quicker, less daunting task - I can swap out my radio in less than 3 minutes now - the first time it took 15 because I was concerned about breaking things because I didn't quite know what to expect.
There seem to be a few of the modules on the site if you search with the part number and leave out the suffix letters, but that Journey one is the cheapest.
The possible donor vehicles are the 300, the Charger and the Journey - (I now know more about this stuff than I care to).

Again - and not to try to contradict what DodgeCACares and dhh3 wrote, if your vehicle is equipped with the 8" screen already and has the ability to receive SiriusXM then the navigation upgrade is as simple as it gets - about 10 minutes and it involves a torx screwdriver and a trim tool (you can use a screwdriver or knife with a cloth over it).
And since I've done both the nav upgrade and installed the OEM backup camera I know what's involved from personal experience.
If your configuration differs, then adding the OEM navigation becomes more involved. You can add the backup camera to either 8" radio (RE2 or RB5) - it is just a matter of spending a bit of time and a couple of dollars thrown at the dealer to turn the feature on after it is installed.
I've posted a link in another thread in the infotainment forum describing where I located a navigation radio on eBay for US$500 plus shipping - your dealer would want thousands for that module.

Complex electronics can have issues. I bought an RB5 nav radio and added the backup camera, like the OP wanted to do. I paid about $500 for the radio module, and if it should die, I can probably replace it for the same money, though so far all is good for me.
Yes, if you take the vehicle to the dealer and pay their asking price for a non-warranty replacement you will be out a LOT of money, but there are services 'out there' that repair these things and, of course for a non-trivial, but much lower amount than the dealer would charge you could just buy another.
If I used an iPhone as my navigator and it died, an unsubsidised replacement phone is likewise not cheap. That and I'd probably be chewing up data.

But I have commented in the past that given it's large assortment of very expensive electronic modules, an extended warranty is almost a necessity for the modern automobile that is beyond the factory warranty yerm - not just the Journey, but virtually everything on the street these days.

I've never seen the Bluetooth module on eBay. I have not seen references to it either. Your best bet probably involves identifying it and finding one at a scrap yard.

Or, just pay for your active libido and get a Grand Caravan - those things are rolling bowling alleys - they are specifically designed with the larger family in mind. You are going to need one for shuttle service soon enough anyway . . . and they're cheap. For offroading pick up a used CJ or a fleet of dirt bikes for what you've saved.

Wanna bet you have a bad head gasket or cracked block?
Don't do your own work, this problem started while the vehicle was under warranty and clearly was not properly repaired, so go back to the dealer and have them fix it right.
The good news is that you had *them* change the water pump, so you can point the finger their way.

Your new vehicle may have the premium sound package, though my 'base' audio system certainly can shake my guts.

My 2014 also sometimes thinks the FOB is in the vehicle even after I've walked away - at least it lets me know with those annoying horn blasts and I can press the lock button. I'd like to get that fixed because it never happened with my 2011 and it is extremely annoying.
However for the topic at hand, the OP's dealer needs a lesson on common sense, since logically both FOBS can't go bad at the same. It can only be something common to the two remotes - and that would be the vehicle's FOB receiver, which is located above the headliner in the left rear corner of the vehicle, or it's associated wiring.
And, since a receiver replacement necessitates replacing the FOBs as well (you can't reprogram the FOBs once they are mated to a receiver), if you don't already have it, and considering that it is a function of the receiver that they are about to change in any case you just might want to ask how much extra they might charge to put in the remote start version of the receiver (the function is implemented in that module) and enable it with the appropriate sales code. After all it is very cold this year up here in Canada and having remote start might be a good thing to have.

Lastly, if you plan to hang on to the vehicle you might also want to consider buying an extended warranty from Chrysler (DO NOT BUY AFTERMARKET), since, as you have been experiencing, troubleshooting these electronic problems can be hit or miss, with the dealers having a less than stellar record of hits and they expect YOU to pay for the misses.

Done it.
If you have an 8.4 with SiriusXM you already have the GPS antenna.
You will need a new radio module, which as dhh said, resides behind the air conditioning controls - the swap takes about 3 minutes.
The radio can be purchased used online at prices that are typically in the range of $800 to $1500 or more - and you will not have a warranty from Chrysler (though it may be possible to make a 'backroom deal' with your dealer should you have problems).
Radios manufactured before 2013 usually do not need to be unlocked (if they've been updated with newer firmware a code may be required). Later ones do. PM me for details on unlocking - it can be done for free and only requires the serial number of the radio (on a sticker, or visible from the dealer menu, which is accessible even if the radio is locked) and the VIN of the vehicle that you are installing it in.
With the exception of the channel presets, all of the features (heated seat control, backup camera and so on) are enabled in the body controller, so the radio doesn't play a part in making those features work - you will need to call SiriusXM to move your subscription (if you have one) to the new radio once you have it installed. The radio ID is found on Sirius channel 0.

If people would simply not load up their key rings with large chunks of metal and hang them from the fob it wouldn't have been an issue at all.

OK, I stumbled across this while Googling something else:
As it happens, the BT module is a separate device - it is connected to the radio on one of the two USB connectors on the back of the radio (one is for the BT module and the other for the USB connection in the console - not sure which of the two goes to which application) and is held in place with a plastic lock. Apparently there is a second connector between the radio and the BT module which also has a locking pin.
If either of these connectors that go to the BT module (or the one in the actual module itself - and I don't know where that is) becomes disconnected or if the BT module itself stops working the radio will think you don't have Bluetooth . . . . if the lock is broken, possibly because someone with Gorilla hands forced the connector apart without properly depressing the release, the connector can work its way out and break the connection.
So, if you've had any work done behind the dash that required pulling the radio or may have disturbed the wiring behind the dash, the connector may have been 'hanging by a hair . . . you can pull the radio module (it is behind the air conditioning controls) and check that out.
Good luck

What your insurance company didn't tell you is that they'll cover the repair for as long as you keep them as your insurance company . . . . . so you are handcuffed to them until you change the vehicle. Make sure that you get a WRITTEN commitment that their sub-par repair is covered by them in perpetuity, whether or not you insure through them.
And I suspect that they aren't the least expensive game in town, so you've probably got incentive to change.

He's in Canada - we get ripped off on extended warranties and there is no lifetime available (which is why I suggested the 7/160 - it is the longest one they offer).

OK, I stumbled across this while Googling something else:
As it happens, the BT module is a separate device - it is connected to the radio on one of the two USB connectors on the back of the radio (one is for the BT module and the other for the USB connection in the console - not sure which of the two goes to which application) and is held in place with a plastic lock. Apparently there is a second connector between the radio and the BT module which also has a locking pin.
If either of these connectors that go to the BT module (or the one in the actual module itself - and I don't know where that is) becomes disconnected or if the BT module itself stops working the radio will think you don't have Bluetooth . . . . if the lock is broken, possibly because someone with Gorilla hands forced the connector apart without properly depressing the release, the connector can work its way out and break the connection.
So, if you've had any work done behind the dash that required pulling the radio or may have disturbed the wiring behind the dash, the connector may have been 'hanging by a hair . . . you can pull the radio module (it is behind the air conditioning controls) and check that out.
Good luck

That was truly a great return . . . . . big belly laugh when I read that!!

It's not that stupid a question if you take the thought a bit further . . . . if the switch on the brake pedal was intermittent you would not be able to start the car, assuming everything else was working. This is likely the first thing your dealer should have checked if he was on the ball.
So when you pressed the button did the accessory circuit come on? Or was the car completely non-responsive?

All Journeys starting with the 2011 model have the keyless entry and start system.
It is not for the dealer to explain the entire vehicle, including troubleshooting techniques to the buyer but rather just to show them the highlights. The buyer is directed to read the manual in order to get acquainted with the fine details of how things are operated, what maintenance to perform, what the various values are for such things like tire pressure and what to do when something out of the ordinary happens . . . . you'd think that this would be obvious, especially considering that a vehicle is the most, or second most expensive acquisition of their lives for the vast majority of owners,
When I ran the tech support group for a high tech manufacturer the most-often-reported problem was realated to RTFM - Read The F*cking Manual - calls from people too lazy to read their manuals. I could have reduced my call centre staffing by 60 or so people based on that alone - the load dropped significantly when we started taking credit card authorisations at the start of a call and explained that the call would be free of charge if the issue wasn't covered in the manual, but that it would be billable based on time expended if it was. Cisco does that too these days.

So how did you get home?
You should have started by reading the manual.
In it you'll read that if the fob doesn't work, there is a passive component inside that is detected when you use the plastic end of the fob to push the starter pushbutton . . . . if that doesn't work, then you are calling for roadside assistance.
From the manual:

I'm not about to get out the manual, but from what you've quoted it seems clear enough to me;
At 64K you check the fluid for level and color. At 120K you drain, flush, replace filters and refill.
Same story for coolant; check at 80K, flush and fill at 5 years or 104K miles.
Of course nothing prevents you from doing these maintenance procedures more often - a clean engine is a happy engine.

E85 isn't a panacea anyway . . . sure, it costs less, but you also get to go a lot fewer miles per tank.
Mixing ethanol and gasoline has always been about pumping up the demand for corn.

E85 isn't a panacea anyway . . . sure, it costs less, but you also get to go a lot fewer miles per tank.
Mixing ethanol and gasoline has always been about pumping up the demand for corn.

E85 isn't a panacea anyway . . . sure, it costs less, but you also get to go a lot fewer miles per tank.
Mixing ethanol and gasoline has always been about pumping up the demand for corn.