2late4u

Keep your foot on the brake.

a man of FEW words... lol

Mine ticked over 45000 km yesterday - I have the original pads and disks and no pulsation - about 30% wear left on the pads all around. I do about 50/50 city/highway driving and while I'm not a leadfoot, I don't drive like a grandmother either. My kids certainly don't take it easy on the vehicle.
It sounds to me like wear is directly tied to how hard you work the vehicle and the conditions you use them in - Gritty, dirty environments likely contribute to increased break wear (clean those calipers and sliders); Frequent, hard stops likewise. If you carry heavy loads . . and so on.
Edit: It occurs to me to mention that back when the kids were young and before I got divorced my ex would get between 4K and 8K out of a set of brakes on the various vans she had (We used to buy GM vehicles) - she complained bitterly to the dealer (and to me) about how crappy the brakes were in the sense that she was always having to change them.
Well, our process was that she would always get the new vehicle and I would get her old one (since all I ever did with a car on weekdays was to drive from a garage at home to a garage at my office) noting that rush hour driving is especially hard on vehicles.
Something very interesting would always happen when I took over the vehicle;
1. Brakes started lasting
2. Fuel economy was vastly improved
Now, when I was with her she wouldn't drive like a cowboy, but clearly she wasn't driving the same way with me than she did when she wasn't.

i would go to the general manager of that dealership and would let him know what you were wanting and what was said to you by whom i suppose was the parts part and then i would tell him that when you did buy a new car it would not be at his dealership that had workers that talked liked that to custermers like that.. he might give you a great deal on the replacement fob to make up for his rude worker......

are you sure you dont want them to give you free gas also ? sorry not trying to be a smartass but how long do you expect them to give you free brake jobs. true the brakes are not the best as ive had problems also and they gave me a goodwill gesture brake job which ive went at least an other 37k ,miles on and havent had any problems from the rotors but when i do ill do my own brake job as i have had other cars where the front pads wear out after about 40k miles. brakes do wear out and rotors do warped at different times for different drivers.. that said good luck and live life to its fullest......

Doesn't it make for a great thread when they don't post any info of what the problem was?

why not buy wagner rotors they are warrented for life against warping and around $52. for the fronts from advance auto and if you go to retailmenot.com and get coupon code for $40 off for any purchase over $110 just order from advance auto and they will ship them free or if in stock go down and pick them up at the store. they also have the thermoquite brake pads right now with a rebate of $15 per set pads are about $62. make 2 different orders and you would get 20 +40 off plus the rebate of $15. and if you buy from advance auto when the thermoquites wear out they will replace them one time for free most other auto part stores dont give thermos warrenty on their pads.so for about $175. minus $75 discounts and rebate new rotors and pads for about$100.00... cant beat that ANY WHERE....

why not buy wagner rotors they are warrented for life against warping and around $52. for the fronts from advance auto and if you go to retailmenot.com and get coupon code for $40 off for any purchase over $110 just order from advance auto and they will ship them free or if in stock go down and pick them up at the store. they also have the thermoquite brake pads right now with a rebate of $15 per set pads are about $62. make 2 different orders and you would get 20 +40 off plus the rebate of $15. and if you buy from advance auto when the thermoquites wear out they will replace them one time for free most other auto part stores dont give thermos warrenty on their pads.so for about $175. minus $75 discounts and rebate new rotors and pads for about$100.00... cant beat that ANY WHERE....

Take it back to the dealer as you should get 1 year free and maybe there was somthing they did when they activated your subscription. I am like the rest I didn't renew after the first year. I get letters all the time offering half off and or 2 weeks free, but when i called they could never get it set up for the free 2 weeks. So now all letters from them go straight to the round file box....

The trim level is buried in the vin. The last 6 digits are used to identify a specific (your) vehicle within the broader year/make/model class. It's like a serial number. Specific to YOUR vehicle.
No dealer is going to give you $2000 more than it's worth just because you added some stuff to it. Put yourself in a buyers shoes. Would you pay more for it if you were in the market knowing it did not come from the factory that way but the previous owner added the stuff himself and commanded a higher price just because it "looks" like and SE?
Owner added mods dont add to the vehicles value for the investment involved. For example, I had a 2005 Dodge Dakota, Laramie package, 4.7L, 4x4, crew cab. I modded the h3ll out of that truck, tuned engine, e-fan, lifted, bigger tires, cat back exhaust, etc. Even so far as to debadge and add R/T emblems to make it look like an R/T model (even though there was no R/T model offered in 05, still looked cool though : ) In the end, it was still a Dodge Dakota, Laramie package, 4.7L 4X4. The (literally thousands of dollars) in mods I made to it meant nothing to the buyer who bought her.
Now, if you do make the changes and then sell it yourself, you may convince some uneducated buyer that it is indeed and SE instead of an AVP, but thats up to you.
All I'm trying to say is, you can add the SE trim level things to it, but your still stuck with the AVP.

Hey bigtsr, how did the Wipe New fare over the winter? Canadian tire has it for $19.99 in this week's flier.

i have a 2011 mainstreet 3.6 and my gas mileage can be as low as 18mpg in my small town with some country driving but on the avg i get around 20 to 21 mpg. now on trips to the beach in gulf shores al. i will avg 22-25 on the interstate driving at 75- 80 mph. gas mileage always dependends on your speed, stops, and elavation of the road. going out to vegas i got 22-25 going out against the wind and going up with elavations of new mexico but coming back i was getting 30-31mpg elavation going down so that makes a huge difference. overall i love my 2011 and i am happy with the mpg for such a big suv. only problems i had with mine were the front brake rotors and the dealer changed them and put on new pads at 28k and i have 64k on it now with no more problems with the front rotors.i am putting rear pads on the next week so 64k on them and about 36k on the front pads and they look great. hope you decided on what to buy and will be happy with it.. p.s. most drivers use the mpg reading that the car tells you as you are driving down the road but that is NOT a true reading of what you get most of the time. i always check my gallons of gas used aginst the miles i have drove and that is the most relible way to get your true mpg.

Welcome to the forum. The option probably has to be "turned on" at the dealer via a starscan tool. Probably cost you an hours labor to have it done. New vehicles these days usually come pre-wired for every option available, but not activated if the option is not part of the trim package. Basically they have to go in to the computer and "flip the switch" to turn the option on.

try putting a new battery in the key fob you can buy them from walmart.

You have 3/36000 bumper to bumper, 5/100000 powertrain. Alternator is not covered by powertrain. Most shops will charge a "diagnostic" fee just to look at your car, which is normally an hour of labor. $150 for an hour of labor is kind of excessive, IMO. Are there any other shops you can go to? Our 09 alternator started making a noise, I was able to isolate using an automotive stethoscope. Took it in and sure enough, it needed a new alternator. I could have replaced it myself, but they are over $300 for a rebuilt one. We purchased an extended bumper to bumper when we bought it so the warranty covered the alternator replacement (minus a $100 deductible).

well the wife said our car wouldnt start,so went out and jumped it with my truck car started up and had the engine light on so took it down to advance auto and they said it was real low but read good to recharge but they rec. for me to change it, which i was wondering how much longer it was going to last as all my dodge vech. battery seam to die after 3yrs. so i went home jacked it up and removed the left tire and removed the plastic rivits with a screwdriver and pliers no problem then started (cussing dodge out)oh well then you loosen the battery tie down and then the pos. battery cable not to bad to get to,then the neg you have a elctric wire snap to undo and tuck out of the way, then the neg bolt to loosen is not the one you think it is, it is actual the little silver nut that is angling off to the right side of the connection, then tuck all your wires out of your way and i used a small flat bar to lift the battery up and out of the tray then pulled it out. then went inside my houseand to the computer and went to retailmenot.com and clicked on advance auto web site and got a $40. off code the went to advance auto web site and got their best batt $144.99 so tax and all about $110. paid for it then went and picked it up and put back into the car. one other note is the connection on the neg cable make sure you connect back up the connetor before tighting down you neg cable as it will turn tight agaisnt the battery box . also i noticed when i loosened the nuts on my cables they really almost loose and their was a little rust on the postive cable connector so as usual do i cleaned both the post and connectors real good and bought the corrension felt tabs that go on the battery post.also the engine light was gone after i started the car up. Maybe could have got away from changing tha battery after noticing the not real tight connetion but after this far decided to relpace the battery anyway.Not to bad on replacement of battery like any thing else kind of hard the first time 2nd time would be a breeze. sorry about no pics. as i i dont have a smart phone...good luck to others..........

well the wife said our car wouldnt start,so went out and jumped it with my truck car started up and had the engine light on so took it down to advance auto and they said it was real low but read good to recharge but they rec. for me to change it, which i was wondering how much longer it was going to last as all my dodge vech. battery seam to die after 3yrs. so i went home jacked it up and removed the left tire and removed the plastic rivits with a screwdriver and pliers no problem then started (cussing dodge out)oh well then you loosen the battery tie down and then the pos. battery cable not to bad to get to,then the neg you have a elctric wire snap to undo and tuck out of the way, then the neg bolt to loosen is not the one you think it is, it is actual the little silver nut that is angling off to the right side of the connection, then tuck all your wires out of your way and i used a small flat bar to lift the battery up and out of the tray then pulled it out. then went inside my houseand to the computer and went to retailmenot.com and clicked on advance auto web site and got a $40. off code the went to advance auto web site and got their best batt $144.99 so tax and all about $110. paid for it then went and picked it up and put back into the car. one other note is the connection on the neg cable make sure you connect back up the connetor before tighting down you neg cable as it will turn tight agaisnt the battery box . also i noticed when i loosened the nuts on my cables they really almost loose and their was a little rust on the postive cable connector so as usual do i cleaned both the post and connectors real good and bought the corrension felt tabs that go on the battery post.also the engine light was gone after i started the car up. Maybe could have got away from changing tha battery after noticing the not real tight connetion but after this far decided to relpace the battery anyway.Not to bad on replacement of battery like any thing else kind of hard the first time 2nd time would be a breeze. sorry about no pics. as i i dont have a smart phone...good luck to others..........

08 - Electrical / 8I - Ignition Control / SENSOR, Camshaft Position/Removal 3.6L Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure Primary
LOP Related
LOP Description Skill Level Skill Category 081579P2 - Sensor, Cam position 3.6 Liter engine Right side 2 - Skilled 8 081579P3 - Sensor, Cam position 3.6 Liter engine- Left side 2 - Skilled 8 08157910 - Sensor, Cam position All other engines 2 - Skilled 8

CAUTION: The magnetic timing wheels (1) must not come in contact with magnets (pickup tools, trays, etc.) or any other strong magnetic field. This will destroy the timing wheels ability to correctly relay camshaft position to the camshaft position sensor.

The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensors are located at the rear of the cylinder head covers and are bolted to the cylinder head.
Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner body (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal) .
If removing the LH CMP sensor, first remove the upper intake manifold (2) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal) .



NOTE: The RH CMP sensor is shown, the LH CMP sensor is similar. If removing both RH and LH CMP sensors, mark the sensors so they can be installed in their original locations.

Disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the CMP sensor.
Loosen the sensor mounting bolt (2).


Pull the sensor and mounting bolt from the cylinder head cover.
The O-ring seal (1) can be reused if not damaged.

Wow, that comment is sure to get a lot of help from Journey lovers!

i would not turn any rotor that you have been having problems wit warpage or shudder, you would only be wasting your time and money by making a bad rotor even thinner. that said had my first brake problem at about 10 k and the dealer turned them and then about 28k started having more shuddering so was able to talk dealer into replaceing fronts pads and rotors as a goodwill gesture. now about 30 k later( 63k usa) not having no shudder or any problems with my brakes also i dont do much in town driving i am thinking i will do my rears pads and fronts again in about march or april waiting on wagner to run their rebate offer about this time of year. since not having any problems front or rear with shudder or any rotor problems will just replace the pads. i know most people say you should turn the rotors when doing a brake job but have done this many times before with no problems.also if you use ceramic pads they WILL cause more heat and makes the rotors heat up alot more and i will not use them i always stick with wagner thermo-quite pads and they last forever for me.

This has been asked before with no answer. No diesels here in the US. Hopefully someone from across the pond will chime in. Do you not have a owners manual? Can you call your locsall dealer and ask?
I did find a pic of the oil filter housing here >> http://www.mopar.com/part/68103969AA?s=353095&i=2234199&b=dodge
Might just have to pull the plastic engine cover off and start looking. It is an internal filter accessible by a cap somewhere.

why do people post problems and or questions and never post back what happened or if they got it fixed? guess its easier to complain about something than share what they did to fix their problem or what they found out and how to resolve the problem......

take it to auto zone or advance auto for a free scan

take it to auto zone or advance auto for a free scan

better check the aligment on your town and country if they are wearing on the outside edges faster the the middle...