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I would def try to tighten the alum ridges that clamp around the tubes just be carefully,as mentioned above the tubes are sensitive to any movement, I wouldn't try to replace the o rings as they should still be ok

as mentioned above make sure you have a strong battery and or replace it with the strongest one you can buy also replace your fob battery,since you recently purchased your journey... I would just replace your battery myself..................also check the battery cables connections to make sure they are clean and tight.................

looks like a cover for an air vent from the underside of your car ,crawl under where you found it and look around should be easy to find where it goes back also you could take it to your local dodge dealership and they would be able to tell you where it goes or any auto body shop should or could tell you as well if they want to help.please report back on what you find out I have never seen one on a dodge journey BUT pickup trucks usually have one located on the rear wall near the floor of the cabin to let air out of the truck cabins so the ac/heat work properly

thanks for reporting back on the fix ,,,,that is what makes a blog help other folks,,, Have sa great New Year

yes new parts can be bad, return it to o'rileys and they should replace it for you,, from your statement was it more than 1 senor? are you sure you replaced the right one? no problem driving with those lights that are on you just wont have abs braking just regular style brakes and also NO cruise control...I haven't been driving with those lights on for about a yr/and half while waiting on the dealership to get me a new abs module that are on backorder everywhere no one has replacement module,,,also you could have a bad wheel bearing as well causing your problem with that sensor showing bad but could be the wheel bearing...good luck

mine just done this but was stuck in the heat mode, drop the glove box door and then push the black fabric cover so you can see the blend doors there is one to the left side of the opening which controls the different levels ( defrost floor and regular vents) of the air is sent ,the one closest to it on the right, is the one causing your trouble if you move the passenger side temp up and down it should be moving I just tapped on mine and it then started working and haven't caused me no more trouble now there is another one on the right side of the air filter don't know what that controls............

LOL ya I was thinking lug nuts as i was just helping someone that had a lug nut that wouldn't budge. but it did meet its match,,, the cv axle nut is what he is talking about, and yes he could slit the nut and he might have to use a torch for some heat as well ,but then you run the risk of damaging the axle,,,,,,, its always a great idea to replace that nut after removing it even if it still looks good, he needs to find out the correct torque setting for it as well so he doesn't ruin the new bearing by over torquing it

Group:Journey Member Post Count:12 Reputation: 8 Joined:05/11/2016 Status:Offline Region:Canada Ontario Journey's Year:2013 Topic Starter Report post Posted January 23, 2020 Well thank you all for your great advice, the winner here is YYZ!! I pulled apart the recirculate motor and tested, (pain in the butt to get out with no stubby) that seemed to be working and not a stripped gear like some had suggested. When I was running all the vents I was almost sure that I saw the recirculate door not working. So anyway I put it all back together and to my amazement everything worked fine! so like YYZ stated the door must have been stuck and not bringing fresh air into the car. After a long test drive ZERO fogging in the car now! So we can add another fix to this repetitious problem. Thanks again for everyone's input, found this where I was telling you look remove your glove box door and also the black cardboard cover under there and you will see the three actuators the left side big one controls the direction on the air that is sent to your vents that one should move when you change the settings on the dash the center controls just the heat for the passenger side and I believe the right side one controls fresh air but not sure on that you should see the arms move on all of them when changing the dash controls good luck

check Thur the forum click on Climate Control there was a lot of discussion on this problem I believe there is a sensor (black box) behind your rear view mirror that controls that problem

geta 5 ft iron pipe for some additional leverage and or just snap off the lug whichever happens first,,, By the way welcome to the group just remember I believe your engine has the timing belt that needs to be changed

you could check with your local junk yard/salvage yard for a used one they usually give you a 30 day warranty on the parts

TAXES,, use to live in Michigan and property taxes up there are huge 2-4 k on a nice house and that was many many yrs ago,I would hate to see what they are now, taxes in Alabama are not bad mine would be around 600 but since I am over 65 we don't have to pay unless are income goes over the limit they have set which so far we haven't hit that until we have to do the RMD on my 401 k., I hope everyone has a Happy and a Safe New Year

I am NOT a mechanic but yes they can stretch a bit and sometimes enough to skip a tooth,maybe enough to cause the engine to quit running..since it didn't break you should be okay to replace the belt cheaper than replacing the engine that might not be bad,,,,take this for what its worth...good luck and please report back on what you do and what happens in the future

think they are referring to the wiper blade and not the arm for the rear

other than having a shop /mechanic take a look at it. I have never heard this one here before, what ever you find out to be the problem please report back here in case others have this happen to them ........ Welcome to the group as well take some time and read thur the forums for other great solutions to the wild side of owning a dodge journey

Glad I live in Alabama with my dodge journey, My 2014 doesn't have hardly a bit of rust underneath it,and you could eat your dinner off of my motor is you wanted to.with 152 k on it and being 10 yrs old it is still looking pretty good except for some of the hail spots we got right after we bought it while driving Thur Arizona and all the rock chips on the hood ...LOL oh well

check out YouTube for videos on how to remove and replace a wiper for more great info as well.please report back on your repair and insights for others to learn from

did you replace the thermostat and coolant? no mention of miles plugs will be due around 100 k as well the transmission service . hope everything turns out well for you

I believe that you can just remove the rear shaft going to the rear and then just have FWD,not the perfect solution but cheaper than junking a car or spending huge $$$.....my daughter had a jeep patriot which was making a huge racket and the mech disabled the rear shaft by unhooking it and then took it for a test drive but it still made the noise...thought it was the rear diff going bad ended up being a bad wheel bearing even tho the regular mechanic no the wheel bearings were good...OH well you never know, the dealership found the wheel bearing instead of the rear diff.

My cousin worked for several different railroads over the years as they went Thru there consolidations and ended up being CSX, he started out a reg worker then got laid off and then called back as a mechanic trainee, and then laid off again then called back as a engineer trainee, and finally got enough time in to not be laid off, and then he went into salary there and ended up becoming the yard manager for CSX and they transferred him all over the country every few yrs and then he finally retired and man he is well off with a fancy home in florida and they just built a big home on a golf course in Tn

also the blue tooth module has been a known parasitic draw as well,try disconnecting that as well

It should BUT you should check with your local dodge dealership parts for more complete info to be sure

my neighbor mentioned as I drove past him that my journey seemed to have a whine that he was hearing, it was real cold that morning and I had just started it and took off as well I had noticed it before but it goes away after a few minutes f warming up,,3.6 eng here with 152 k on the clock

why did you replace the coil packs,just a waste of $$$ unless you were having a problem with them,,they are either good or bad.....

I would buy a new set of pugs and install these before I would do anything else NGK V-Power Nickel Plug Number ZFR5F-11 Spark Plug - 2262 the electrode on these are thicker then on the extended range spark plugs but other makers they should be replaced every 30 k you will have problems with the more expensive plugs you can buy these at o'reillys for around $4.69 each or off Amazon for around 4 for $ 15.77...STICK with the NGK brand as well