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5rebel9

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Everything posted by 5rebel9

  1. 5rebel9
    Is the 2015 an AWD also? YES it will bolt up IF it has the correct side plate that the AWD power take off uses. IF NOT that plate can be unbolted from each and swapped I have NOT done one myself to say with confidence, but what I was shown and told by MY personal friend who has an Independent auto shop and did a trans for our '11 3.6 AWD using a FWD '14 62te.
  2. 5rebel9
    That many different ellectrical problems on a 5 year old car... I'd be wondering about flood damage or "critters" getting into the vehicle and chewing up wiring. Unfortunately the OP does not give any background info.
  3. 5rebel9
    Did this "stalling" start happening AFTER cleaning and re oiling the air filter??? PERHAPS too much oil in it and choking off air passage??? How many 100Kms on the odometer????
  4. 5rebel9
    The 2.4 is a rather finicky motor.... particularly for SPARK PLUGS if they have not been replaced for at least 30k MILES {not sure the KM conversion}. This will lead to stalling when under additional engine load or at low speeds {like coming to a stop}. There are MANY posts on this forum about similar concern as you post.
  5. 5rebel9
    Well yes I had that spring problem on the right rear caliper, BUT the LR was also RUSTED solid piston to caliper body behind the piston seal/dust boot. Western NY is NOT KIND on any vehicle for corrosion.
  6. 5rebel9
    I remove the NUTS {10mm socket} and then used both hands to hold the module and the other to work the connector off, YES a bit snug thanke to dirt/heat in that area. with the module unfastened there is more working room, especially with my huge mitts!
  7. 5rebel9
    YES ! I wanted to do this with our 2011 mainstreet, but costs of keeping up 3 DJ's AND a Buick Lucerne are killing me. Just finished putting in rear Monroe struts at $330. and found out that BOTH rear calipers need to be replaced @ $315. with pads. Gonna do those Saturday! And those are Parts with sales tax, NOT labor {that I'm doing} This is on the '11 mainstreet That I'm tempted to KEEP but will have to probably SELL. I also have new front rotors and pads that I've had for some time now to install.
  8. 5rebel9
    I just bent the top of the liner arch down and worked it down toward the front of the wheel arch until I could SEE and work with the 2 6mm /10mm socket nuts and unplug the connector. My son has NOT REPORTED any more "glitches", BUT he has a LOT GOING ON and LONG work hours.
  9. 5rebel9
    I may be wrong, but a quick dealer parts look up shows it in the L rear corner of the interior. Good luck
  10. 5rebel9
    Either way is a PITA! But I would say less things involved to pull the trans if it is a FWD. Even if an AWD I'd still go for trans, but a lot more work. By YEARS, you are due for a timing belt replacement, and it's a lot easier to do with the ENGINE out. Most folks try and get away without doing the belt and waterpump....then cry when the belt snaps or sheds cog teeth and ruins the guts of the INTERFERENCE MOTOR. YOU have some decisions to make...GOOD LUCK and keep us here posted on how you go.
  11. 5rebel9
    I just found this old subject thread: I recently had this code show up on our '14 62te equipped DJ. I knew it was a torque converter going bad and had my friend seek {give his advice} and he said solenoid and fluid/filter change to see if it would fix. Was against my preference, but as the trans has to be removed for a torque converter {a rather pricey job}, we tried his way first....NO LUCK! So at my reasonable charges , had him pull out the trans and install a new torque converter for a total cost of $1,100. Then to finish things off, another $100 for rear upper control arms. There are plenty of youtube videos about this code and what to do. ALL working FINE now and not chewing off inner tread of rear tires
  12. 5rebel9
    CORRECTION: ABS is the primary reason for the others coming on also. I don't like autocorrect on my computer!
  13. 5rebel9
    Not sure if this helps any from what was posted for codes, BUT..... The AS is the primary reason for the others going out. Front wheel speed sensors are separate from the front hub bearings, BUT the "tone ring" they get their signal from is part of the hub bearing. and those are known to fail with age. Only fix is to replace the hub bearing assembly{not a real bad job}.there are many youtube videos on how to do it.
  14. 5rebel9
    Oh my gosh! I forgot about this posting....time to bring it to an end result! My friend gave me the pair of horns from a DJ he was scrapping out. Popped the top of the grill away {not total removal} and within 10 minutes the switch was done and back together and working FINE. NY motor vehicles law says passenger cars are decibel limited/ no air horns.
  15. 5rebel9
    It has only been a day, but SO FAR SO GOOD ! Four drives and 100 miles total driven.
  16. 5rebel9
    YES please do that. As you have now read on the forum, there are multiple ways any system can malfunction. I now have a wheel sensor scanner just like tire shops use, so I know the wheel sensors ARE working....so on to the next possibility and so forth till the cause is found and fixed. They don't call it a diagnostic tree for following for the heck of print space. {when PRINTED shop manuals were the norm}.
  17. 5rebel9
    My vehicle in question is mainly driven now by my son which he took to work today,{ I have 3 DJ's} He will report how TPMS functioned tomorrow when he gets home. But yes the metal wire connectors inside the plastic plug and module body can tarnish and not allow the electrical signal thru on one or more of the 4{?} wires. and that WILL throw codes or "drop out" tire readings. I put Di-electric contact grease into the female connectors of the harness plug and with the combination of recent unplu/replugs must have cleaned up the connections to have things work properly. NOT terribly hard work to do, so all I can say is try putting your original back on likewise and also have a tire shop check your sensor with the scanners they have that one just points closely at the wheel SENSOR to see if they all are indeed SENDING signal to the module. The module is the RECIEVER that sends the info to the dash.
  18. 5rebel9
    Hey there, I was pretty tired out when responding last eve. I re read your posting and YES it sounds like a control {FAN SPEED} problem is yours the big screen audio screen and controls for fan failing from the screen or when you say turn off by the manual knob control?
  19. 5rebel9
    Yes they are the OE supplier. But there are other aftermarket suppliers that can be used. The tool/scanner I was "gifted" can determine brand and test all of them, along with programing them when new install. It can even give the part number and serial number of the sensor being "tested" while mounted.
  20. 5rebel9
    You MAY want to look up the "running"{current} thread topic ... TPMS failure. Myself and a few other active members have been discussing our same concerns and the possible cause/repair needed. There can be multiple reasons WHY a system may malfunction.
  21. 5rebel9
    It is NOT a totally sealed trans! There is a tube to check and fill the trans., just not a dipstick it has a twist off cap instead. Why not look at the MANY youtube videos that are available on how to check trans oil for the 62te trans that yours and ALL 3.6 engine equipped FCA cars have. Checking fluid level {and properly done} is the FIRST step in diagnosing your concern.
  22. 5rebel9
    A further point of observation when I reinstalled the orig. module ...... The metal pins of the module and corresponding metal connectors in the harness are extremely small, almost like electronic "gadget" size. Sitting where it does in the LR wheel arch and although protected by the plastic arch liner, there is still much that can affect the harness connection. I noticed a fair amount of dirt/dust accumulation on the parts and the possibility of "greenhouse" humidity/ temp issues being tucked up into the wheel arch as it is. BUT that is just a THEORY on my part.
  23. 5rebel9
    I'm not strongly knowledged with A/C diagnosis. BUT I believe your year is equipped with the "new" high pressure refrigerant system, not the good old R-134a. Perhaps you could confirm by looking at the underhood A/C info sticker? And has any A/C ventilation work ever been done to yours? I know that by year, yours would be considered relatively "new".
  24. 5rebel9
    Rear is kind of a separate unit controlwise from front. Are you running in recirculation or / and does this have auto temp controls or the standard split front controls? IF you are using recirc mode, try your A/C on outside air and report what happens. GOOD LUCK!
  25. 5rebel9
    Hot today for western NY 82f ! Just got done reinstalling the original TPM module and went on another "auto learn" drive cycle. ALL wheels are reading and NO EVIC message or warning lite. I put Di- electric grease into the harness plug connectors when putting back together. I'll find out how things do in the morning! On a side note, my friend GAVE me a sensor tester/programmer scanner as he now has 4 of them. I did an afternoon of "learning" how it works. Found all 4 wheel sensors are OE brand Schrader sensors and they ALL test good. just don't know if they are original or replacements
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