5rebel9

After restoring power, I can just hear{very low volume} voice prompts. BUT now the voice command only states to press the phone button to make a call....which I can not do until the wife comes home Sat. I moved the module off to the left kickboard area {loose} and it won't harm anything there. I reassembled the brake pedal assy., all is good there and I may be able to "play" with trying another module without so much disassembly under the dash! IF pairing a phone works like it does in her RT and mic and volumes are good, then I may just let it go with this module, as radio functions are easy enough with the wheel controls. I REALLY don't want to pull another unit out from another of my friend's parts cars!!!!

WELL... NO JOY with voice command. Going to disconnect power at the TIPM and wait a bit and then hook power back up and try, but i'm not confidant it will "do the trick". Next xtep will be putting things back together as I posted. Winter firewood is more important right now!

John, you are not mistaken at all about under dash work! I'm so sore that last night I slept seated in my comfy chair and was still wakened every 2 hours from back pain! I re read the tests that USA puts each module thru and saw about voice command FM change. I was trying to change from AM to a FM station, going out in a bit to try a FM to FM change. As I said before, I don't have a "smart" cell phone or even a "dumb" one{just a traditional LANDLINE}, the wife has one but is away till Sat. afternoon to try hers on this sxt. for pairing and function.Her '13RT's bluetooth and phone work perfectly and the volume of voice command and such come thru louder than a radio station playing volume, not so with this used module in this sxt. There is a lot of work in swapping this module and I've got to get the brake pedal bracket back together to move the car soon so my annual firewood deliveries can begin! I'm going to try and put it back together and leave the module to the left side of the bracket for now and see if I can still get to the connectors for a later module work/change. I also have a matching color driver door to replace, but have to take the inner panel off to swap the key cylinder and then put that back together too!

At that info, I doubt oil sludging to the OCS. BUT was there any noticeable sludge on the cam sensors when you changed them??? Most all the regulars here swear to doing oil changes at the 5k mile interval whether it be the 2.4 or 3.6 I would take a good hard look at the wire ends inside the plastic connector for the exhaust cam sensor.

Yes they are a decent ride for many things. At one time I had 4 at the same time. There are MANY different option configurations for these cars though and can make it confusing to get help if all pertinent info is not offered "up front" in a posting. Case in point of my own is my wife has a'13 RT with 8.4 screen audio and Alpine with bluetooth/phone. The '13sxt I'm working on has 4.3 with bluetooth/phone. the other 2 did NOT have bluetooth/phone. I'm out of my element trying to figure out the quirks with the bluetooth phone on the sxt to figure out why the volume of the "nice lady voice in the module" is barely hearable. BUT so goes life.......LOL

You originally posted of also changing the oil, how many miles are on the car and quite possible the oil control solenoid for the exhaust cam phaser/ gear may be sticking after your driving a while. This is just "spitballing" on my part, as I can't see the car or know of it's overall condition. HANG IN THERE, somehow hopefully this forum can help you lick this problem!

Sorry to hijack this thread BUT..... The "bluetooth/phone" phone module was DEAD on my project '13 4.3 screen audio system.Today I got a used one and phone settings now work{I don't have a phone to pair it to}, but voice command works but is BARELY hearable and does not respond to me requesting a radio station change. Could this still be a faulty module??? I have NOT yet remounted the module in it's location. OR is there some kind of volume adjust screen on the touchscreen that I have not found???? ANY help is greatly appreciated before I crawl back under the dash and put everything back together!!!!

SORRY, but that one I can not answer as I did not go that route to know. You know how to take that fuse out, shouldn't be too hard to put back in and try it.

Deep down inside me, I knew it would work...... I'm beginning to wonder if besides text that before,during fix and after pic's and videos are needed to be taken seriously of how to take care of a concern.....LOL

Thank you and may many blessings be bestowed on you for doing this one!!!!! Also of note: I bent the contacts in the dials for firmer contact to the circuit board.

EXACTLY as I've been trying to explain!!!!!

I wish I was personal computer savvy enough to post links or pictures....BUT I AM NOT! Yes that is exactly what I had done and have been trying to explain about our '11 DJ, the only one now that has rear HVAC our other 2 just have front dual zone.

11:15am Sat. Just finished getting rear total to to 0, COLD morning so late start! Jacked up one side and made small adj to toe bolt{30* at eccentric} measured and had come down to 1/4" toe out. Repeated for the other side and did the same amount of adjand final came out good. I just can't tell if individual tires are each on spec as I had no reference as to where each tire was actually pointing. Both tires were equally BADLY worn into the steel belts on the inside edge. Should be good enough for the 25 mile drive to get it aligned when I put it on the road. Next task is a pair of 17" Mastercraft winter trex snows to match the like new fronts and a new sensor for the current right rear rim. The rear tires are so bad I would not run 10 miles on them!!!!!

YUP the wife's 13 RT has those rims, just not as "scar free" as the pic! Thanks NY winters!!!!!

When making a rim swap from even another Dodge product, just remember to have the offset of the rim match up or be VERY close. My friend is in a position much like member rick2292. He recently tried a set of19' rims from a later year Grand Caravan and the big brake calipers on the receiving 2015 DJ scraped on the spokes of the very nice looking rims. Turned out to be a rather large difference in rim offset due to spoke design. ALWAYS test fit when swapping rims around before just "bolting on" and running.

POSSIBLY, BUT read member Locosiete's most recent posting as to what happened to him after having run for a week with the rear roof controller unplugged and then disconnecting the battery for other work. Hence my last treply on this thread.

I had read a lot of posts here when I first joined about this "mysterious" concern when I had similar front unsyncing and fan coming off and back on. Then I found a youtube video of same problem and the guy removed the rear controller and opened it up to adjust the 3 dials contact arms to the circuit board and tighten the screws that were too loose for each dial that was allowing the dials to "wobble" and also contact arms to not come off the circuit board. There have been NO MORE instances of this "mystery" since I did that fix. I surmise with the can/bus electrical layout that these cars have that the rear controller is integrated to the front unit. So folks get brave and take the unit out and repair it or replace the REAR CONTROL ROOF MOUNTED PANEL.

WELL>>>>>>> Today I go back underneath the rear of my project '13sxt and adjust the rear toe of the tires. Even though the bolts are in the OE. positions, it still has 1/2" toe out. I just want to get it close so I can put new tires on and get it to the alignment shop without scrubbing up new tires. I spent 2 days during the week replacing the rear and then front brakes and rotors. Each corner had 1 seized caliper pin to "contend" with along with LOTS of wire brushing and filing pad slide surfaces of the brackets to get the NY RUST gone for smooth pad movement.

With the additional sensors for auto temp systems, I had to ask as they do have some "quirks" of their own. But yes if not used will operate as traditional A/C system. I don't have a schematic handy to track out, but I believe the fuse for rear system only cuts power to the rear blower, not the control panel. Good luck and let us know how the monitoring goes!🙂

Well... the code is for the exhaust camshaft sensor, and you stated that you replaced the Intake camshaft sensor..... Both these sensors AND the crankshaft sensor work together to provide the needed timing info to the computer. The crankshaft sensor is the more common part failure of the 3, IF yours is over 100k miles, I'd consider doing all 3 as on the 2.4 not that hard to do. Also be sure to use oem or NTK brand parts, these motors are pretty picky on part quality. AND you may need to do a "relearn procedure or automatically with a high end scanner.

To each their own on how they proceed on effecting a repair. But please specify which unit is being done , I was under the impression you were doing the REAR as was being discussed through our postings. ALSO is yout DJ equipped with the auto temp FRONT control panel{it has off and auto on the center dial} or manual {just an off on the center dial}????

It has been too long ago to remember ALL the specific "quiks" mine gave before my repair. But 2 other members posted of no more problems even with the front afterwards. One unplugged the rear control panel and the other bought and installed a replacement unit{although a used one}. I took my rear panel apart and "retensiond" and tightened the 3 dials and reassembled and reinstalled the panel.

Like myself, YOU seem to have a good size "stable" of vehicles to care for!!!! My current is 2 DJ's A Grand Caravan wheel chair van and a Buick Lucerne. I could partially count my son's DJ as anything more than wiper blades and solvent.... he comes to me!

Don't bother with the fuses, it won't stop the problem. IF you drop the rear control from the roof, you can just unplug the wiring connector to it and then re mount the unit... IF you don't use rear control for passengers very often.

No blades last forever, I just get cheapest Walmart blades when needed. More important for good wiping action is for good wiper arm tension to hold the blade to the glass. I tend to give my OLDER DJ's a little bend of the wiper arms, as with age the spring in the arm does loose some of its strength. A good subject topic you post of all the same! ☺️