5rebel9

OK.... Done for a while, but now start planning for the air horn update since you have the air supply readily available. LOL Looks great with all that "equipment" packed in that location ! Just have to ask though, are the side trim panels able to go back in for the "finished" factory appearance?

Well, I figured out something that helps low beam night driving. On all the many cars I've had over the years{and there are MANY}, I had always had the dash illumination turned up pretty high. I tried turning dash lights down quite a lot on the '14 and '13 and WOW what a difference in being able to see the road on low beam setting without the fog lights also on! My son, I found out has his dash lighting turned almost off on the '11 and says it helps him. BUT still would like better low beams or fogs installed. The '11 has the old long width lower grill,and fog housing trim panels are different than the other later year Journeys I have. Also I finished up his "Christmas" present and got the aftermarket remote start fob activated and working with my alphaobd program today! He was VERY HAPPY and EXCITED to have that working, and says now it does not seem like just an old car anymore...it has a MODERN common feature now! .... LOL

That's quite the installation! Looks great I get what you're after with the "CADDY" and the Journey now. Just be content with it not being "lightning fast", as you may get "air sickness" from "playing" with sudden fast height changes! ....LOL

WELLLL For being a Journey forum... Pic's of the "CADDY" look GREAT! But for what you're taking out of the "CADDY" to put into the Journey, what's going to go back into the "CADDY"?

The OP is talking about the big nut for the CV joint, I doubt it would snap the "lug". BUT you are very correct about a good long helper pipe, I've done that many a time to compensate for my bad back and crusty CV joint nuts, even when using a 2.5' 3/4 "drive breaker bar! To Mando Mayer...... If as bad as you say, you may think about getting a new nut and use a hammer & chisel to split the nut that's so stuck. Only need to do this on one flat midway of it's length. This would loosen things up nicely for removal, but you WILL NEED A NEW axle nut on reassembly.

They are lefty loosey righty tighty! An 09 model, they have not probably been off in ages {if ever} and will have siezed up on the threads, try soaking the stub shaft with a good penetrating oil like liquid wrench.

Well time for a brief update on the '14 Since getting another torque converter, I've put almost 600 miles on the car. Trans is working fine with NO odd noises and pulling a respectable for our area 22 mpg The rear toe links and "rube goldberg" rear toe setting seems to have worked out well. We did get some significant snow after Thanksgiving and it handled so much better than previous seasons and tire wear is nonexistent so far{I know, only 600 miles}. Now just to keep me putting it on the "bad list" one of the front fog lights burned out. The previous owner had installed BLUE colored bulbs, and try as I might I can not find similar bulbs. So I need to buy a PAIR of bulbs. Those bulbs are NOT CHEAP even for basic bulbs and not readily available at most of my area's parts stores or even Walmarts. I can almost buy complete units for the price of a pair of just bulbs! I also want to "upgrade the low beams as with doing more "dark time" driving due to the time of year. without the fog lights the low beams are woefully inadequate for me. High beams seem very good. My son says the '11 seems the same and either wants fogs installed or low beam "upgrading" also' Wife is fine with the '13 with working fogs. Oh yes, and there is still the need to replace the RF TPMS in that wheel! We made it thru Christmas financially, but just got our annual County/town tax bill due by end of Jan, I guess I'd better leave things alone on these minor needs until the bank account recovers enough in FEBRUARY! And hope that nothing else goes wrong with any of our vehicles till then !

Over the summer I replaced the rear struts on our '11 with 3 row seating. I had seen this video and a few others and decided to try it on one side for cutting the panel. I was NOT IMPRESSED and decided to go the right way and found a lot of seat removal work was NOT needed. YES it's a pain for window trim removal and replacing when done, but once you get to the actual struts things go quite easily. On vehicles with rear heat/a/c on the right side {most all 3 row models}, there is an air duct that needs to be removed{easy to do} that covers over the upper strut nuts. I found also that the left{drivers side} lower panel did not need to come completely out, just needed some pretty long ratchet extensions to reach over the height of the panel being pulled away. IF I have to do the '13 or '14, I will do it the right way{with some shortcuts}. The '13 RT should be easy as it's 2 row and no rear HVAC to contend with.

Translated to English, the OP is looking for step by step assembly instructions for the 2.7 engine of 2011 vintage. Definitely a Europeans offer model.

hahaha Self editing now? I like the change! I've notice on ours that while the chrome is a nice "touch" for looks, the GLARE off from it in bright sunlight is very distracting. Are you sure that with doing all these "upgrades" to your Journey and Caddy that this is not your source for income{JOB}? You look quite good at doing such! Have a Happy and safe New Year!

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to say this but without any background history of any recent problems/repairs. It is hard to come up with a pinpoint solution for you. my best GUESS would be a relay on the TIPM/fuse panel on the drivers side under the hood. The 08 - 10 are getting old now and were noted for TIPM/Fuse panel troubles.

FROM { and for} RUSSIA WITH LOVE!...Forgive me James Bond! Yup @John/Horace, pretty comical, but where in the WWW do you find such articles? Your cars must be pretty well maintained and reliable to have the time to find and post such automotive gems! Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

Bet you never thought somebody would EXAMINE your pictures so closely to notice such .....AND to make joking comment of a little "detail" in it! Have a very MERRY CHRISTMAS and I hope you keep your nice warm weather! COLD NIGHTS here and Day temps of 30 - 40*, but Christmas day calling for a heat wave of 52* here.....and I'll gladly have it!

Sandals with exposed toes verses SNOW BOOTS like up here for me???? Yes the bezel looks very nice, and then to put the rest of the dash back together!

So, yea indeed they all have the rear deck lock/unlock button. and they all work both ways on our 3. BUT much to a HOPE I had .... NO it will NOT unlock if fob is inside the front of the car, should someone inadvertently lock the fob in the car. Since I have 2 fobs for the '14, I tried it and found the disheartening result. :{

And the same MERRY CHRISTMAS greetings back to you! yes he is in his third year with WNYPA, and they share track time on a lot of their runs with the railroad {freight} out of Buffalo around the "Southern Tier" of NY. The company has had a substantial turnover in employees since he's been there. most didn't like the working hours. After what he got himself into buying a house, he's happy to work the long hours for now!

The so called "mechanic" needs to reinstall whatever he took out and then see if being able to shift{I GUESS you mean won't come out of PARK} returns. A VERY COMMON battery drain problem with your daughters year is from a misaligned glove box light switch. There are many posts of this found in the forum here. IF you open the glove box and manually with a finger can turn the light off, that does NOT mean the glove box door is able to do the same and not moving the switch enough to turn off the light. IF that is not the problem, then yes member jkeaton is correct and probably best done by a competent auto tech as sight unseen to the forum here that there are SO MANY POSSIBILITIES that we could only guess to the actual problem.

Very well liked by executives and co workers as a matter of fact. Loved trains since a baby ! He has collections of toy and model trains that overflow his old bedroom. On his job interview he even corrected "bosses" about types of cars and terms! We found out today that he is coming back home a day early {Thurs}, but has to work his normal shift Friday. He's going to be one tired puppy for the Christmas weekend! He's still waiting to find out if he has to do a run Christmas Day afternoon !

Sorry to say this , but you are now out of my league in understanding on how it would all "wire up" and work. I actually like the radio reception and clarity of the 2 4.3 screen radios over the '13 RT's big screen and supposed amplified premium radio. To me, if it works......don't mess with it!

A 4.3" bezel? Without looking up your media pic's you are still using factory screen? Our '11 and '14 have the 4.3 screens and find the cubby hole underneath rather unnecessary, nice idea of your further updating!

YES He's a train engineer for a short line freight RR that has 2 hubs. His "home base" is in Olean,NY and is covering for vacation time Engineer in Meadville, Pa. Meadville is a smaller operation. He says he likes the work hours better{day shift}/shorter there than the usual 12 hours thru late afternoon into the wee early morning hours of his "home base".Of course the pay is is better at his home base due to hours worked.

UPDATE about the '11 Mainstreet...... My son came home for the weekend from temp posting of his job in Pa. SO Wife and I went over to his home to "visit" Sunday early afternoon and I took my tablet with Alphaobd and hood switch and new fob to try again and program for use AND remote start. Things did not go "smoothly", but I managed to finally program in the fob to the car, Unfortunately by the time I got that done the battery had discharged enough to not start the car and had to jump it off the '14 we had driven over in.By then it was getting well into the first quarter of the BILLS/ cowboys game so we decided to wait for another day to try for the remote start function. GO BILLS!!!!! OLD TIMER that I am and finding that navigating a tablet is a bit different than my PC and keyboard did not help along with learning just where and how to find the pages of Alphaobd to work with this more base model and year Journey to do what I want had me rather stressed and disappointed. I'm not big into "computer/programming" type stuff and am much more comfortable with "hands on" mechanical things {as my wearing out body will allow}. As I type this , my son is already on his way back to his train duties in Pa., a 2.5 hour drive.

I believe if you look in the owners book and underhood sticker you will find the call for Copper core plugs. No I don't think it to be coils. Another area to investigate due to such mileage is for worn out engine/ trans mounts. You can find many youtube videos about them with a Google search, just don't be model year specific as the mounts are the same for all years with the 2.4 motor. As far as throwing fault codes NO unless you are getting actual misfires. EDIT: We have some very good members that have the 2.4 engined DJ's. , and I gladly defer to their recommendations as to plugs . Mine are all the 3.6and have different spec recommendations. Still try a can of Seafoam in the tank and run it and see how it does.

If this has only RECENTLY started happening, then I doubt it is in computer programming. What type plugs were put in? Many report problems when using other than recommended Copper Core plugs.

how many miles on the vehicle and when were the spark plugs last replaced? both idle and third gear are engine load times that worn spark plugs can show this condition. also try running a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank.