John/Horace

Not toe rods, they are called tie rods….dudes and dudettes.

https://www.thedrive.com/news/fuel-shipping-company-charged-with-selling-waste-gas-to-stations

Blend door will sometimes free itself up and keep working. It’s a tiny servo motor with plastic teeth that can start to bind. If it sticks closed you get no fresh air in and windows will often start fogging up. Awkward part to change even though only two screws. If outside temp not too cold running the a/c will help clear the humidity. Extreme cold disables a/c.

All cars I have owned opening the front door handles on the inside unlocks doors., even if already locked. Except rear doors with child over ride locks , if vehicle has the option. If seat belts not being used, airbags not designed to fire. Too dangerous. So BCM wouldn’t trigger to unlock doors. Still have to be able to get out of vehicle. Hatch can’t be opened from inside, no handle or release. Front car doors working like they should. Auto locks activate around 25 ish kms to lock all doors.

Here is a company that rebuilds TIPM modules. The 2009-10 is different model than the later Journey models, which rarely have problems. One of pics shows the actual part number. The reman units are listed as plug and play, interesting. https://xemodex.com/us/product/dodge-totally-integrated-power-module-tipm-repair-service/

Battery going dead could have been bad diode in alternator. You may solved that problem, with alt swap. Some people have been lucky with a plug and play TIPM fix with a used unit. Most Journey have push button start , except 2009-10 like yours with the key ignition and win switch set up. There are a few places selling rebuilt TIPM units for a lot less than dealership. Need to confirm you have a compatible used TIPM.

Safety issue not to open. In a crash or accident going into water, you need to be able to get out, even if ignition is on and maybe car running. If your wearing seat belt, open door not really a hazard imo? The rear doors locks each have a small manual switch for child safety over ride. If manually activated the inside rear doors can’t be opened from inside. One slide switch close to latch on each rear door.

When you jump the separate starter relay, it bypasses all the safety’s built in, so a good test. Park neutral, key security, I think TIPM as well. When problem started did car die while driving or just not turning over with key.? Most TIPM failures 2009-10 is random fuel pump power cutting off (relay on TIPM circuit board) , random horn beeping. Power door locks acting up. Im curious if you have accessory on with key, will bumping starter relay allow car to run; fuel pump would have to come on with key engagement of course. Plug coils powered up.

Thank god Canuckistan models don’t have this headrest. Not the first post about them. I love e6000 adhesive, one of the better all purpose automotive products imo. Auto recycler for another head rest with good bracket is another option. In an accident it has a theoretical restraint purpose; I think.

The post algorithm should have seen 2009-10 first version with the 3.5 V6 also had available awd and the tow rating would have reflected that. AWD adds around 200 ish pounds to both the 3.6 and 3.6 drive line. Both use the 62TE six speed automatic. Way more power with the new design 3.6 engine in the 2011 plus models. But towing isn’t just about engine power. The 2009-10 models years generally had worse brakes. Larger rotors and sometimes dual piston calipers on 2011 plus models. The GVWR on both 7 passenger vehicles in awd is about 150 pounds apart, with the 3.6 being heavier. Although post 2016 journeys jumped a bit more even. Maximum tow weight ability would require trailer brakes, important detail.

No robo-Johan, read Navallacross post above. FCA at the time did not want to pay for testing to meet new DOT towing capacity compliance. Real world testing needed post 2010 to keep the higher weight rating. There already was awd available on the higher rated 2009-10 models. Awd not new for 3.6 engine.

When you lock the locks it should trigger the car to shut all power off. The radio on most cars have a delayed off function to allow person to listen for a bit with engine off. Is dash going completely dark after doors are locked? Try switching radio off manually before shutting engine off, always. Is there blue tooth and is it still working on the vehicle. Blue tooth module staying on all the time is a common battery drain. Very expensive module, some people just pull fuse.

Fuse Configuration Various Makes and Models • Due to some configurations and dealer installed options, please verify the fuse configuration of the replacement TIPM matches the configuration of the TIPM you are removing. Aftermarket Electronics • To prevent damage to the TIPM or factory wiring harness, all aftermarket electronics accessories such as Audio equipment, lighting, plows, winches, etc., must not be directly wired into the TIPM. When installing aftermarket accessories, a proper size fuse and relay must be used. For vehicles equipped with Push Button Start • For the first start after installing the TIPM, the key must be used to put the ignition switch in the run position. If the push-button start is used, the vehicle configuration may not load correctly, an error may display on the instrument cluster, or the vehicle may not start. The push-button must be removed from the ignition switch and the key inserted. TIPM Configuration • The Cabin Control Node, Powertrain Control Module, and Instrument Cluster must be connected to the vehicle and functioning correctly before a replacement TIPM can be installed. • After installing the replacement TIPM, the module will try to pull build configuration and VIN from the above-mentioned modules. • Insert the Ignition Key (see above for push-button start vehicles), turn it to the run position (do not attempt to start the vehicle), and wait 120 seconds. • After waiting for 120 seconds, turn the key to the off position and back to run. • Clear any stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes before starting the vehicle. • Start the vehicle and ensure all electrical features are working properly. • If the vehicle does not start or some electrical features are not working properly, use a factory approved scan tool to verify proper build configuration and VIN are stored on the TIPM. If they are incorrect, they must be properly configured using a scan tool before attempting to start the vehicle.

Always start with scanning for fault codes. Should be several transmission codes stored if that’s problem.

If a car sits for long periods of time, the AGM battery is worth the extra $’s. New Lexus and other high end cars ship from factory with them. Discharge when sitting for regular lead acid by 30 days is enough for a no start sometimes. Some owners manuals state you have to charge battery at this interval or lose battery warranty. AGM rated for almost ten times less daily power loss. Recharge time also many multiples times better. Around a $120 more AGM versus regular lead acid. Base warranty slightly better. They take vibration so well all recreational vehicles, atv, snowmobile, jet skis, use them. AGM on father in laws sitting car was a huge help during Covid. Collector car, or vehicles with crazy ass high powered sound systems would benefit too. I put a smart charger on the battery of my two vehicles(not AGM) around twice a year, to make sure they can still get up to a full charge. Battery tender can also help a lot. Most importantly to this thread. Great for relocation, no vent and can be mounted on their side.

Without using test equipment we would be guessing. If it was a remanufactured alternator 3-4 years ago, I would think it’s probably the cause. Charge up battery first and load test it. Then run car and see what alternator does. Measure voltage loaded and unloaded etc. There is a huge fuse that protects electrical system from bad alternator doing any damage. Even batteries seem to last shorter than a few years ago. Lots of load with all the power options, most cars have 160 amp alternators now. Typical car in the 1980s was probably 80amps.

If you don’t mind Xmas tree like lights on the dash, the alt should be able to be forced to charge car. Small plug on back, exciter wire is positive, needs a fused positive feed from battery. Small negative also probably needs its own direct ground. Use power that cycles with key switch; and an inline fuse to protect new alt. Alt I think would just put out full charge at all times. This time of year not a big deal, imo. Volt regulator is internal to alt. Unplugging battery current sensor on negative battery terminal might reduce dash warning lights. Sensor has a small plug that sends ecm signal feed back. This sensor failing could even be your charging problem. Code scan might show that. Pricy part even aftermarket, good car wrecker purchase. Alarm theft system not likely shutting off engine. A low battery warning on cluster will shut down car to protect from overheating engine (cooling fans have to be functional). I’m hoping it’s current sensor on battery neg terminal that gives that signal.

Dorman aftermarket $250:from RockAuto , who I don’t work for. Just general info for visual. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical,power+supply+module+(tipm),13581 P

I agree with 5rebel9 about bypassing alarm system. Almost impossible for most shops. I believe a few years ago (couldn’t find it with search function) there was somebody in your situation with similar symptoms. It was a car someone inherited from his sister, 2010 Journey with random horn honking and non start issues. They ended up buying a used auto recycler TIPM relay and swapping it removed the multiple weird problems with car. This is the kind of problem a dealer is very capable of diagnosing. But a new TIPM module will probably make your wallet bleed. So would programming two new fobs for security system, another possibility. Free advice is worth everything you pay for it. Cheers.

There are posts on this site about alarm issues in 2009-10 yrs with the keyed ignition. The fob locking the locks, arms the system. So play around to clear alarm; then don’t arm it again with fob. Manually lock driver door lock for now, can open with fob shouldn’t affect anything. Losing battery voltage may have temporarily scrambled things. May need reprogramming . TIPM module was big issue 2009-10; read up on it. Not sure if it’s tied into alarm system triggering.

Turn off the ignition and remove the key from the ignition switch. Lock all the doors using the key or remote key fob, and then close all the doors. Wait for about a minute before unlocking the driver's side door using the key or remote key fob. This should disarm the alarm system.

Wow, this sounds frustrating. I would start with having a fully charged battery in the car, low voltage can cause a lot of weird stuff to happen on these cars. It sounds like the original alternator may actually have been ok; unless the second alternator ( was it new or remanufactured) is also a dud. The oem unit is Nippodensa , one of the best manufacturers or electrical parts, imo. The bms systems in cars are pretty involved. They are tied into the battery ground current sensor on battery ground clamp and ecm. Lots of codes like low battery level etc can turn up in obd system. What codes are showing up right now? The alarm system I think is bigger problem. Do you have a second fob or key to start car. Cycling drivers door lock with key I think twice should clear alarm on most dodge vehicles.

And I quote … “Ensure the chosen vehicle aligns with everyone’s satisfaction.” Although technically proper english, almost no one normally speaks like this. But the ChatGPT or Chatbot what ever, is getting better. Robo-Johan has almost the same reputation rating as me. I wonder if I should even bother posting anymore. ? And the chatbot apps unlike the rest of us…are getting paid, some how, hilarious.

https://www.autocodes.com/p06dd_dodge.html There is a dealer ecm flash update for 2015-2017 Journey for nuisance oil pressure codes mentioned. The poster from United Arab Emirates might have a issue getting update done. Even if pressure is ok, the codes might still trigger limp mode type issues. Pressure sensor harness is underneath intake manifold between the cylinder heads on the oil cooler assembly. Lots of heat there, oil if it seeps a bit. Horrible place for access and wire trouble shooting.

https://www.autocodes.com/p06dd_dodge.html