mechanical-idiot

Maybe try cleaning the throttle body. Or run a can of lucas fuel injector cleaner. 

what engine do you have, and how many miles, could be a plug problem

If you are going to change the TPS I would do the plugs also....and the tranny fluid

Are you experiencing driveability issues? If you just had the battery replaced, clear the codes and see if they come back. 

As jkeaton said, it might be time for a tune up.  If over 100,000 miles, get your spark plugs changed (if they have not been changed before).  If it is a 6 cylinder, go with the iridium plugs, preferably mopar plugs.  And - take the advice from the boys above and check the brakes.
 
Best of luck.
 
mechanical-idiot

We have our car rust checked every year, so we don't have to worry about the battery shelf, since it is coated for us.  If we didn't get it done, I would buy a can of Rust Check and coat the damn thing myself.  I have a can of it that I spray on the hinges etc.  Love that stuff.
 
mechanical-idiot

As jkeaton said, it might be time for a tune up.  If over 100,000 miles, get your spark plugs changed (if they have not been changed before).  If it is a 6 cylinder, go with the iridium plugs, preferably mopar plugs.  And - take the advice from the boys above and check the brakes.
 
Best of luck.
 
mechanical-idiot

As jkeaton said, it might be time for a tune up.  If over 100,000 miles, get your spark plugs changed (if they have not been changed before).  If it is a 6 cylinder, go with the iridium plugs, preferably mopar plugs.  And - take the advice from the boys above and check the brakes.
 
Best of luck.
 
mechanical-idiot

go with option b ,probally more expensive but you wont burn your engine by accident

How many miles? Ever had a tune up?

Check your brakes also. The dealership here does not check the brakes as part of a routine oil change without tire rotation. They mark off the blue (N/A) spot on the inspection sheet.
 
You may have a slight drag on a brake. The front should make the car pull to one side, even slightly. The rear will not show in driving if very light but it will wear the pads and rotors noticeably and drop gas mileage considerably.

Was the vibration there before you had the work done?
 
What was mentioned above is good advice. I had two new tires and some front end work done on a different vehicle. Both the front end work and one of the new tires went bad. The tire had a bubble that caused vibration and was replaced. Once the vehicle was returned from the shop a second time, the vehicle had enormous torque steer that they told me was normal. It had 250.000 miles on it and had never done it before. Short story is I found that the 35lb max tire was inflated to 60lbs and I drove it like that for 2 months never thinking to check for that.
 
Take it back to the shop and have them check their work. Check the tire pressures your self.

This ^^
 
Check the wires inside the loom going from the body to the tailgate. 

There is no separate fuse for the lift gate listed in the owner's manual. There is, however, a known and common issue with the wiring harness as it passes from the body to the lift gate. Perhaps there is a single wire issue there effecting your locks on the lift gate.

If they vibrate on the back, then it is a broken belt or an imbalanced rim/tire.
 
mechanical-idiot

probally a bad tire,quick way to check that is rotate the front to the rear if the problem is gone then its the new tire, if i remember right if its pulling to the left it is prob the right side tire that might have a broken belt, could also be a bad rim.good luck

You could run it thru the firewall into the dash and hook up a toggle switch there.  Or, you could get it fixed correctly.  I would choose option B.
 
Good luck
 
mechanical-idiot

You could run it thru the firewall into the dash and hook up a toggle switch there.  Or, you could get it fixed correctly.  I would choose option B.
 
Good luck
 
mechanical-idiot

AT LEAST HE ISNT YELLING ANYMORE. 

This is what it supposedly means...
 
The 3 overlapped cars is the status of the XM traffic subscription. If it is green, the sub. is active; if it turns orange/red it is not active or didn't receive the signal.

The traffic service overlays the red,yellow,green lines on the roads to indicate traffic speeds and the incident screen will tell you what is going on where.
 
Cute way of showing your signal strength.

Hi, 2L4U.
It doesnt bother me at all, but the wifie does.  they wanna know everything you know ;-)
even the Chrysler guys don't know what it is. and there is nothing in the manuals about this.     Gonna sue them. hahaha.
thanks for your response.

If the code for the BCM is coming up, it is likely trying to tell you that it should be replaced.  Check a salvage yard for a used one.
 
mechanical-idiot

Your HFM module (blue tooth) could be draining it.  Common problem.  Pull fuse 131 under the dash on the passenger side.  Charge it.  If it does not go dead, then that is your problem.
 
mechanical-idiot

iv seen a car  will start when in neutral but then when you put in drive it will die, so i believe it is the battery temp sensor, not surer if there is a way to test it.. good luck  google on the battery temp sensor might be some info on you tube