Summer Solstice

^^^^ That is good to know.

Welcome aboard! This is the way others see us Dodge Journey drivers This is the way we see ourselves.

Apparently, it is a feature on the Durango. Mopar video below shows how to shut it off at end of video. There are also aftermarket plug-ins for the OBDII port to reprogram this. No experience with that.

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I posted the above comment almost 1 year ago. I'm still happy with mine.

I just did the left rear brake two weeks ago, with the other 3 coming up. I used the inexpensive tool made for turning the calipers in. This one turned in fine. I did not bottom it out but watched the seal as a guide. At that I still had to hand ratchet the parking brake a number of times to work the gap out of the pad to rotor. Once it was close, it adjusted in during the first daily commute. Before changing the pads and rotor, there was no question that they were in contact prior to disassembly.

Thanks for the update. Hope all continues to run well and the problem is solved.

I've often noticed the oil pressure around 90 when the vehicle is cold and during idle. As it warms up it begins to come down. It drops during acceleration and rises during idle. Once warm, it stays in the 40's range. It's been that way for the 3.5 years I've had the Journey. The dealer always does the oil change and uses the specified oil. Hope the repair is done and everything works out.

Agree with 2late4u. You don't mention that the battery was load tested or whether you attempted to jump start it. Unlike the cars of yesteryear, the Journey is very finicky about the battery. The lights will work even when the battery can not supply enough amps to crank it over. I had much the same symptoms as you do on a two year old battery. It was a lesson learned. Rule this out before going further.

Sounds like a plan. A spare belt is never a bad idea.

Might have gotten a brake pad just a little cocked and wedged and it did not slide freely. It happens. Hope that is it.

from Michigan

As you have said, start with the battery. The age, and the symptoms, are consistent. Once the battery drops just enough, everything works except starting. That is normal for these vehicles. You air distribution problems may be blend door related.

The point about a "quick learn" on the transmission is a valid one on the Journey. I bought mine used and it was a little while before the vehicle adjusted to my driving style. That said, your problems seem extreme. Unhook your battery to allow for a "reset" and see if it makes a difference. A diagnostic tool would also be helpful. Depending on your skill level, it may be worth a fee for a shop diagnostic. You would at least have conformation that the trans or torque converter is good or bad. The cost of the diagnostic may save you a considerable amount of your time.

There is a fuse block under the hood that some have found to have corrosion problems. Have you reset the check engine light only to have it come back? If so, what is the code?

Why did you replace the original trans and were the symptoms different or the same? Is this new one from a reputable place with a warranty of any kind? When someone more knowledgeable steps in, that is something they will ask.

It would make me very uncomfortable that the seller can find nothing and return it to you with nothing done. What kind of warranty are they giving you and will they cover this if it returns in 1 week? Is this a legitimate dealer or an attempt to run the clock out on a new sale? Take this into consideration when deciding if keeping the vehicle is worth the gamble.

^^ What he said. I've had personal experience of a bad cell in a 2 year old battery in the Journey. It had a charge but not enough to start the vehicle. Lots of weird lights and codes. Definitely a learning experience. Modern cars are not the vehicles of the past.

Back to the dealer it goes. No point in speculations until you know how the dealer will stand behind this. They are as much on trial here as the vehicle. Being able to trust the dealer inproves your chances of enjoying the vehicle considerably.

A few dollars now for a shop diagnostic to firmly identify the problem can save you a considerable amount of time and money later. You can still fix it yourself, if you are so inclined, but you will likely spend more in trail and error. Pay for the answer if not cure. Sometimes it's much cheaper in the long run.

^^^ What he said !!

Very nice!