Summer Solstice

It's times like these when it may be beneficial to have the problem diagnosed by a trusted garage. Even though the fee is usually around $100.00, you have already spent that in time, materials, and frustration. You don't have to have the repairs done there. As far as fuel rich and chugging, there are so many different things that can throw the balance off. You may have a gasket leak, a spark issue, a sensor problem, or an impeded or leaking exhaust. You've already hit the easy stuff that I would have suggested first. I say cut your losses and have a shop give it a first hand look.

Also note that there is more than one actuator. Typically there is 1 on each side, under the dash, for right and left. There is a 3rd, on the right, same general area as the other one on the right. This one controls the overall mix of air from the outside. They are often all 3 the same part. You have to identify which one is failing.

The grinding noise may be a wheel bearing which the sensor is part of. You need to investigate it closer to be sure. Bad wheel bearings tend to be louder with speed or at certain speeds.

Welcome aboard! ^^ I'm the one in the middle of the group picture above waving.

Ditto.

Your reset experience is normal for the Journey. I've had more than 1 flat tire to test that out.

Your symptoms with a dead battery is the same that I had. The vehicle was new enough that it was still under dealer warranty otherwise I would have replaced it with a DECA. I have had excellent results with them also. In fact, I have one sitting in an unheated garage that still has a charge after 3 years. Time to put it on the trickle charger. Good luck and thanks for the write up.

Best to check with a body shop or the dealership. They can cross reference it.

^^^^ That is good to know.

Welcome aboard! This is the way others see us Dodge Journey drivers This is the way we see ourselves.

Apparently, it is a feature on the Durango. Mopar video below shows how to shut it off at end of video. There are also aftermarket plug-ins for the OBDII port to reprogram this. No experience with that.

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I posted the above comment almost 1 year ago. I'm still happy with mine.

I just did the left rear brake two weeks ago, with the other 3 coming up. I used the inexpensive tool made for turning the calipers in. This one turned in fine. I did not bottom it out but watched the seal as a guide. At that I still had to hand ratchet the parking brake a number of times to work the gap out of the pad to rotor. Once it was close, it adjusted in during the first daily commute. Before changing the pads and rotor, there was no question that they were in contact prior to disassembly.

Thanks for the update. Hope all continues to run well and the problem is solved.

I've often noticed the oil pressure around 90 when the vehicle is cold and during idle. As it warms up it begins to come down. It drops during acceleration and rises during idle. Once warm, it stays in the 40's range. It's been that way for the 3.5 years I've had the Journey. The dealer always does the oil change and uses the specified oil. Hope the repair is done and everything works out.

Agree with 2late4u. You don't mention that the battery was load tested or whether you attempted to jump start it. Unlike the cars of yesteryear, the Journey is very finicky about the battery. The lights will work even when the battery can not supply enough amps to crank it over. I had much the same symptoms as you do on a two year old battery. It was a lesson learned. Rule this out before going further.

Sounds like a plan. A spare belt is never a bad idea.

Might have gotten a brake pad just a little cocked and wedged and it did not slide freely. It happens. Hope that is it.

from Michigan

As you have said, start with the battery. The age, and the symptoms, are consistent. Once the battery drops just enough, everything works except starting. That is normal for these vehicles. You air distribution problems may be blend door related.

The point about a "quick learn" on the transmission is a valid one on the Journey. I bought mine used and it was a little while before the vehicle adjusted to my driving style. That said, your problems seem extreme. Unhook your battery to allow for a "reset" and see if it makes a difference. A diagnostic tool would also be helpful. Depending on your skill level, it may be worth a fee for a shop diagnostic. You would at least have conformation that the trans or torque converter is good or bad. The cost of the diagnostic may save you a considerable amount of your time.

There is a fuse block under the hood that some have found to have corrosion problems. Have you reset the check engine light only to have it come back? If so, what is the code?