NavalLacrosse

1 week, and no issues. I suspect the root cause of the issue remains- but as I've not had any issues yet, I'll continue to live in a fool's bliss.

Fob transmits at a great range still... but I'll replace the battery anyway soon. I read in some outside forum that this was an indicator of a greater problem in the computer. I've not been able to dig up that forum post since reading it the first time.
 
I read the manual, and now obvious to me in retrospect, the red light is simply the security arming. Thanks for the reassurance anyway!

1 week, and no issues. I suspect the root cause of the issue remains- but as I've not had any issues yet, I'll continue to live in a fool's bliss.

Fob transmits at a great range still... but I'll replace the battery anyway soon. I read in some outside forum that this was an indicator of a greater problem in the computer. I've not been able to dig up that forum post since reading it the first time.
 
I read the manual, and now obvious to me in retrospect, the red light is simply the security arming. Thanks for the reassurance anyway!

Add: 
The [any number] mm socket. It's the tool you assumed your 52pc ratched set had.... But seemingly didn't include. 

I’ve always gotten a kick out of this. 

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. 

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--!' 

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. 

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. 

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. 

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. 

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.  

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.  

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. 

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. 

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. 

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. 

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-ltin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. 

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. 

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. 

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.  

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.  

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.  

SON-OF-A-BITCH TOOL: (A personal favorite!!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a BITCH!' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

Just thought I would update everyone. I went ahead and replaced the battery temp sensor which was my suspicion. That was the problem she's running great. 

Update! 
Disconnected the ground (from under the hood). 
Waited 30 minutes
Problem solved! 

SO, final follow-up. I ended up with a C200-type camera. Picked it up for $36. Suction mounted. Works well- other than the G sensor 50% of the time thinking me leaving my car is a 'mild collision' and recording a 30 second burst.
 
Here's the link-  This is the dash cam for people, who like me,  care about the 3 dollar price difference between one model, and the next.... and nothing else.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2R7M67/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I Like mine, but I would recommend anyone else to really consider the 'Flush Mount' type cameras, as they don't obstruct the forward view as much.

The console lid will also stand vertical. Open it all the way and look at the other lever inside.It will then slide so that the back is close to the hump in between the second row floorboard.if you know what I mean.

Here is my new-to-me, 2011 Dodge Journey CREW.
 
33,340 miles, 
 
looking forward to posting more about my ownership adventures.

My wife and I during the Xmas-eve snowstorm this year... also my DJ, for some reason, running without the fog lights on... My name's Tim

Annnnd... now we can add a '16 Dodge Grand Caravan Crew Plus to the list... SWMBO got tired of single handedly raising the stock price of the big oil companies and wanted to get rid of the Nitro. 
 
 

Those rubber hangers actually serve a useful purpose (vibration dampening/noise reduction).  Now if only there were a way to install one with a clamp instead of a Freudian effort...
Some variation of this:

i was doing 90 the other day and the damn car is so smooth i didnt realize it.  id say i was doing 90 for about 1 mile or so LOL.  i had my giggles........dropped back down to 75.

Thanks, It's really low low on the list. I'll never miss what  I never had.
 

TLDR: Be mindful of the demo start date. The warranty clock and mileage starts when the dealer puts it in service.
 
Do you use REDDIT? If so, check out the section called "R/AskCarSales" It's a pretty busy subreddit full of bored and honest salesman who help you a pretty good amount... They get this question probably a dozen times per day. I'd give it a shot... they really helped me alot, running free carfax, vin reports, and warranty reports just because i was chatty with them. just makes sure you say you're Canadian, they're sticklers about location. 
 
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Biggest thing to note is that the warranty has already begun. Say, if the FCA Bumper to bumper warranty is 30k miles, and there's 1.4k mi (2k km(?)) then know that's mileage you'll not get back...  also, the clock is ticking on the warranty as well. If it's been in their demo fleet for a year, then you can know that you've got one less year of warranty. You should be able to determine this from the Carfax, or by taking the dealers word for it.

When I worked at a Chevy dealer, we tried to keep the Demo/rental units below 2000-3000 miles.  To my understanding, sales will reduce the cost a proportional amount for the miles. In my opinion, Demos, even the rental ones, are not that badly beat on. If one's beat on, at least it was only for it's first thousand miles. Test drive it, and if it smells good (Not like weed), and you enjoy the drive (thinking nothing about the demo's history) I'd say keep it on your short list if the price is right.

Agree, no difference at all in regular driving. However, on FWD models they do still have the traction and anti-skid defenses. In the scenario you mentioned the car would apply the brakes to try and regain traction on any wheel that is sliding or skidding, so regardless of how you are holding the wheel the braking system will more than likely end up slowing you down or could even lock the wheels while trying to pass. In AWD models it will do the same thing, but it is able to regulate power to the rear wheels and detect if there is slippage on either of the rear wheels and determine how much power to send to each wheel. Not to say FWD isn't good in snow, but an AWD system won't make you lose control because the front wheels are slipping. In FWD if you were to pass a car on the highway with slush your only wheels with power are where all the weight is as well as steering so if there is a loss in traction for both front wheels hopefully you hit a dry patch of road really quick. The rear tires on FWD could also slide out on even though they don't have power, but without the AWD system they have to rely on hitting that dry patch of pavement. 

After reading a few other recent posts, I'll apologize if I sound dick-ish about the heat. I was referring to people who in the fall/autumn were basically complaining about their heat not being as good as they hoped- 

If your heat is/coolant/oil is giving trouble, I hope that you're able to diagnose and resolve those issues in a quick and inexpensive way. -Thanks

It's really tempting to respond with jokes, but It's honestly i'm sure most suggestions will sounds that way. My recommendation: get ready for the over use / miss use of the word 'cubby'
 
First and foremost, it's probably between the seat and console, or some god awful derivative of that: like inside the shroud of the seat hinge, or in the gap between the upper and lower. Its a right fit, and I've dropped my Samsung NOTE (big phone) down there and had a hard time locating it.

-Note: The passenger seat has an amplifier (or whatever else that box is) under it. This provides an ideal hiding spot for keys.
 
The cubby in the overhead (the one with the dome mirror)
The really deep door pockets, front and back,
The in-floor cubbys in the mid-row
The passenger's seat cubby. (Rear included.)
That pesky net on the base of the console, below the shiftly-stick
 
don't forget the back cubby in the trunk, or the third row (If you suspect it to be there)
 
Just shooting high-pressure air around the seats can often dislodge items you've long since forgotten. (with the added benefit of cleaning the car) If you're not feeling up to it, take it to a Detailer, and tell them the predicament. You'll not only get your key back, with a clean car, but you'll also be supporting a true-to-goodness local business. 

I hope this thread gets featured on the front page! hahaha
 

This will be the dumbest troubleshooting post ever, just forewarning.
I like to through the term 'Love Tap' around... It's really a fix-all for all accessories affiliated with Dodge, at least for my Journey and my previous 04 Caravan.
Ever since having to do this three times during august, I've not had to do it since. For what it;s worth, i'll write a post about it! :
 
So I've had my 2011 Crew for a few months, and I notice that every so often the cruise control button wont turn on the cruise control. It's only occasionally doing it. I suspect it is loose wire, vibration, and temperature related (I like the AC vents to blow on my hands during the summer). Regardless of the cause of the problem, I was able to temporally 'fix it with a band-aid'...
 
For people having similar issues, try the following advanced troubleshooting procedure:
----------------------------
1) Try a swift-yet-solid right handed palm 'slap' at the 3 o'clock, from the outside of the rim towards the center while holding wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock. (Not too much force, but just enough to make the wheel go 'ka-jug'.)
 
2) Normally push the cruise control on-off button. If cruise does not return to full functionality, repeat the troubleshooting procedures while applying slightly more force during step 1.
 
3) Explain to your passenger, that you're not attempting to crash the car, and are merely preforming the FCA standard operating procedure for initializing the cruise controls.
 
---------------------------
If it doesn't work, obviously there's something else wrong... good luck

@Ariel I can't find what I was reading the other day, but it was a post featuring some videos of an install in spanish. ignoring that the video was spanish, the gist was:

There are two parts, the upper and lower face plate. The upper is what you upgrade from the 4.3 to the 8" Screen/supporting hardware, and the lower is the 8 buttons/thermostat controls/and CD drive.

From what I got out the the article was the someone solved this issue. It was that they needed to upgrade their lower panel to have the 'Auto' temperature option on the center button. apparently some versions of the car only have the 'off' button. Mine has the Off/Auto. This 'Auto' option apparently has the right connectors to send data back to the 8.4" screen to display the temp. ... I'll look a little more for the Thread. If I find it I'll post here. 
 
Sorry I can't be of more help.

Just installed the trailer hitch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMF1HCW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my new-to-me dodge journey.
 
Install took me, and my Dad, and about 2 hours of actual hands-on work. It would have taken less if there wasn't a mountain of sand in hollow frame that I needed to clear away.
 
All in all, I'm impressed. It was inexpensive, and fairly east to install, even with just a floor jack, and basic tools.

Appearance-wise, It doesn't stick out farther than the rear bumper, and is above the mufflers, meaning it's discrete, but also not totally hidden. I'd recommend this to anyone.

Just installed the trailer hitch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMF1HCW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my new-to-me dodge journey.
 
Install took me, and my Dad, and about 2 hours of actual hands-on work. It would have taken less if there wasn't a mountain of sand in hollow frame that I needed to clear away.
 
All in all, I'm impressed. It was inexpensive, and fairly east to install, even with just a floor jack, and basic tools.

Appearance-wise, It doesn't stick out farther than the rear bumper, and is above the mufflers, meaning it's discrete, but also not totally hidden. I'd recommend this to anyone.

I don't think I'll black them out, but if I don't wash it every weekend the brake dust pretty much makes the wheels black. Haha.
 
I'm thinking that I should paint the calipers though. Either black or red.
 
 

Here is my new-to-me, 2011 Dodge Journey CREW.
 
33,340 miles, 
 
looking forward to posting more about my ownership adventures.