Armando G

That light function is incorporated into the door latch assembly, not a separate switch. I would start by checking for a broken wire in the rubber boot between the door and the main body of the car.

Side note... remove the 2nd ground and check that the main ground isn't only tight, but making a good, clean connection at the opposite end - preferably metal to metal, not metal to paint. Clean out that connection as well as you can and reconnect. 
Just had to do that with my Ford that was having a very similar issue. 

Side note... remove the 2nd ground and check that the main ground isn't only tight, but making a good, clean connection at the opposite end - preferably metal to metal, not metal to paint. Clean out that connection as well as you can and reconnect. 
Just had to do that with my Ford that was having a very similar issue. 

have you tried putting it into neutral and then try starting it,also could be a intermittent key switch problem,so many different possibilities...good luck

rock auto looks like they have your NUTS check them out.......
009 DODGE JOURNEY 3.5L V6 Wheel : Lug Nut     Related Parts         PTC 98138 Info Steel Wheels; Wheel Nut M12-1.50 Flattop     Do you need a Torque Wrench or Lug Nut Wrench?     $1.39 $1.39

Out of curiosity, what codes did you get? Have you looked at any of the basics? Something as simple as needing a new air filter could cause the idle RPM to rise. I could give you a list of suggestions, but prefer to start with what have you already done? Anything at this point would be a shot in the dark. 

@Yogitech1 uhhh, here's your chance to drive wherever your heart desires and trade it in with lower mileage (I know someone in here unclipped that speedometer cable way back when). 
Just saying...

@Yogitech1 uhhh, here's your chance to drive wherever your heart desires and trade it in with lower mileage (I know someone in here unclipped that speedometer cable way back when). 
Just saying...

@Yogitech1, looks like you just bought this car and have a lot of miscellaneous issues. Did you get the car checked before you bought it? Did you do a good check yourself before buying? Did you get a "good" deal on it? Do you have any maintenance records for the car? It is a 12+ year old car, so I assume there are going to be a lot of 'age' issues coming up with the car. 

211,000 miles. Second string now so the climb is slower. No major repairs. Evaporator is leaking. I’ll probably replace the heater core too while the dash is off. Been a good car. 

2009 Dodge Journey SXT 234,406 miles
 
No major mechanical issues that I recall off the top of my head (when I get the chance I will look through my service records to double check), most of my major repairs have been collision/accident damage-related. The biggest repair headache was a leaking sunroof after it was replaced due to damage from a hailstorm. But the repair shop finally got it fixed right (even sending a tow truck over 100 miles to my house to pick it up and drop off a rental).
 
I bought it in 2011 so it is definitely the longest I have ever owned the same vehicle. I'm very pleased with how long, and how well, it has lasted. I'm not the gentlest driver and I definitely put on the miles so for it to still be running so well amazes me to be honest, lol

2011 AWD Mainstreet, now showing 203,450 on the clock. Only current glitch is that I need to replace the heater core( have the part, just too darned cold out to do in my driveway)
LOVE this car.

Throwing parts at it getting expensive and not working. Write down what has been done and bring to a recommended tec with your list.
 
I bought a used Jeep that had rich condition and O2 sensors changed more than once. Signal from upstream sensor was not getting to ECM computer. Two feet of wire harness replaced. ECM had 60 pins and one of them wasn't getting a 1 volt signal. No melted wires or obvious signs of problem. Some issues can be tricky to nail down .

@danyboy are you just asking out of curiosity or are you having an issue with the new battery? Personally, I wouldn't use shims on a new battery. I would get the right size to start with. I've used a shim in the past for an old battery with corroded terminals in order to save money, but ultimately became more of an issue than a fix. 

OEM are best

With the age of the vehicle, driver door wiring is a known common problem on almost all makes of vehicles. The drivers door gets used the most and the wiring between the door and body in the rubber boot break. Easy enough to visually check it out. ALSO if CEL is on and computer IS STORING codes, the remote start IS DISABLED by design.

Check engine light on. Have you had it scanned for codes? What are the codes? Probably the answer to your question lies there.

@danyboy are you just asking out of curiosity or are you having an issue with the new battery? Personally, I wouldn't use shims on a new battery. I would get the right size to start with. I've used a shim in the past for an old battery with corroded terminals in order to save money, but ultimately became more of an issue than a fix. 

@danyboy are you just asking out of curiosity or are you having an issue with the new battery? Personally, I wouldn't use shims on a new battery. I would get the right size to start with. I've used a shim in the past for an old battery with corroded terminals in order to save money, but ultimately became more of an issue than a fix. 

Are you asking what brand or what type? Google gives you a ton of choices but if recommend name brand plugs and coils. Stick to OEM and you should be good. 

120 Kilometers per Hour =
74.564543........ well you could reinforce it BUT i doubt that is the problem, most of the time when i noticed plastic parts making a noise it is more of a loud banging noise, I personally havent experienced the noise you are talking about,,, BUT i have also wondered about all the plastic fender well panels in all 4 areas being attached with just filmise push buttons, seems like they could make a lot of road noise while traveling down the road.

well i finally broke down and replaced the rotors and pads this morning i am at around 129 k and i had previously replaced the oem pads with wagners and didnt like how much dust they were throwing so i had the old rotors turned ( really didnt like how they turned the rotors as they could only do 1 turn on them due to them be thin) and put on my old oem pads that almost looked new did this around 120 k ,,,wasnt having no real problems with this being done BUT just decided to do them right so bought some  Raybestos 780964 Advanced Technology Disc Brake Rotor amazon for $60 each and some new  Akebono ACT1589 Proact Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad kit , GREY around $74.  the old pads still looked like over half to three quarter pad left so i saved them in case of an emerg along with the old rotors as my father always said to do ....LOL  took it for a test drive, smooth as silk and stopping on a dime so i guess i am ready for the next 130k or more.

yrs ago at around 70 k i ordered front and rear pads for my 2014 well when i went to replace them they didnt even look half wore out ( i should have stopped there) but thought well go ahead and replace them with the Wager thermoquiet pads i had bought, and as always i saved the old pads just in case as my father always said to do in case of a problem, well fast forward to around 120 k i wasnt happy with my brakes throwing so must dust and such so was going to replace them again and t i was surprised on how worn the Wagners were wore down, so i removed the rotors and had them turned and they were just about at the point of not being able to turn them according to the shop but they turned out okay, and i just replaced the front pads with my old OEM pads that i had saved, Man  a lot less dust and better braking as well.... WAGNER pads sure have went down hill as they use to be the gold standards, i only use Akabano pads now on my daughter's rural  mail vehicle as they are the ones that make the OEM pads as well and buying them off amazon is a GREAT deal compared to the local part stores.

LOL     !   Hardly a "team up" as I started my "journey" with the Journey model in 2020. and still have that 2011 for my son's use. And just bought the 2014 for the wife. Member 2late4u started out in 2011 by membership join date. My big buying point for  the model was their durability(when properly cared for) and the PRICE to aquire them, a total of around 10 grand for BOTH cars is not a bad investment!