Armando G

Welcome to the group.

I GIVE UP... how many?!?!

Big thumbs up for the positive review. I feel most people that are happy and are having minimal issues, are probably not joining forums too often. Great review and good for you... keep enjoying the DJ!!!

Asking the same subject...I go an hour out of my way to go to a dealership or of my area for my Ford cars. They aren't as busy (or they're very organized), and they treat everyone very well. Good point made here ?

Have you tried just cleaning the connections? If they work intermittently, it may just be a bad connection.

Pictures, take lots of pictures. That will be helpful in your documenting everything. And it will be well appreciated. Good luck ?

Copy and paste it to work... or type it in. Pretty good page.

Welcome aboard... enjoy the site, lots of good stuff in here.

Don't think so, but here is a great result to your question (good site to "search" on, btw).

Welcome to the group.

With some members already celebrating Christmas and some of us almost there... just wanted to wish you all a Merry Christmas. Hopefully your DJ is running smoothly and everyone can focus on some family time. We're almost through this crazy 2020. Enjoy everyone...???

I know the battery was just replaced, but just to check some of the basics, check the grounding connection. You may want to make sure you have a good connection at the ground (not the battery end) with no corrosion or crud. My old truck went through this and after cleaning it really well, it started with no issues.

Well, from what you describe you should start with your battery. Those all seem like signs that it is dying and is putting out very low voltage. The clicking is from your vent doors probably struggling to move and the no start is most likely from the battery being to low to start the car. Get it jumped and go to a parts store that will test the battery AND alternator. I would guess you need a new battery which will take care of those two issues. Assuming you meant 'front' tire... that sounds like your wheel hub needs to be replaced. You can search that in the forum for more info.

Most likely not related. If you get your oil changed, they will most likely have a reader and read the codes for you. If you are more of a DIY type of person and do your own oil change, I would suggest buying a reader.

@Bignosedog, yeah that is a good feeling... you're a top dog when you get the Family car fixed. Little grease under the finger nails and maybe a scratch here and there (I digress). Anyway, glad it all worked out and you did it right. Now go enjoy your DJ!!!

Agreed. I would suggest not getting a junkyard trannie. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

I can honestly say that my third row helped me in a few situations. Plus I hate the price difference compared to the other options out there.

Hopefully it's not the same as my situation, but I had the same symptoms back in October of last year and ended up having to replace the transmission (i was still under warranty). I received that code and a couple others after limping home twice at about 30MPH and it took the dealership about 2 weeks to make the determination. It was a bit of an ugly fight. From what I understood, the transmission was failing and causing that code, and after they changed the sensor it actually got worse. If you are not happy with them, see if a local transmission shop will take a look. Good luck

Welcome aboard... nice looking DJ. Still love driving mine around after 5 years.

I believe it's coincidence. Try resetting the radio with one of the methods on YouTube (not sure which radio you have). If not, call uconnect's help number. They helped me with an issue before.

I'll start by saying... I'm not trying to be rude or mean to the OP, just making a statement. It's funny how nowadays getting your music to play in your car is a 'major issue to a cars performance. Way back, if our radio stopped working, we would grab our boom box (big ass radio) and stick it in between us to listen to music. We carried extra 'D' size batteries as backup and turned it up as high as possible. We either had whatever the radio station was playing or whatever we recorded on our cassette tapes (legally of course). I know some of you will probably have no idea what I am talking about, but damn, our major issues back then were really a lot worse. On the flip side, I do believe this stuff should work on these futuristic cars... lol. ?

Bottom line... if you are going to do this, do it the right way. If you go from the top, there is more to remove than just the fuse box. This might cause more damage and time then jacking the car up and breaking a $0.05 plastic clip. You should probably clean both terminals if you believe that is the cause (tender not really needed). Before putting the tire back, try jumping it and if it doesn't work, you are ready to replace the battery. If it does work, don't put it back completely and run to get the battery and alternator tested. If they say it's the battery, well now you are familiar on how to switch it. I've tried enough shortcuts to know its better to do it the right way. Totally up to you though.

Will that take into account figuring out where to move it to and moving it there? You're getting rid of it anyways... it's been real, good luck on your square wheel thing. Not sure if your only reason to joining the forum was to complain, but that's a bigger waste of time than replacing your battery. Moving on to real posts...

Plenty of posts concerning this and with only having to change your battery every 4-5 years, it's not that big of a deal. Unless you buy the cheapest battery you can get your hands on. My Chevy has it in the trunk (replaced once in 7 years) , my MG had it in the backseat space (2 of them to be specific) , my Ford has it so far back under the hood (replaced one in 4 years) , it hurts when you're pulling it out. I actually think it's an ingenious use of space.

Very cool and very creative. I like the last one... no helmet or goggles. Post some pics when they are on. ?