Armando G

OK, I'll ask... what are you planning on towing??? I know I'm not the only one wondering ?

Every time an airbag post comes up, all I can think of is the wiener dog... <<<trying to get it out of my head>>>

Now here's an interesting topic... Knew someone with this issue a long time ago and after trying a few things, they swore by peppermint oil. Make sure you clean as much as possible first and try not to park in the same spot every day. Side note, acorns could have popped in there from everyday driving. Depending on where you're finding them.

Anything is possible. With that said, you would probably be the first and it would take some work. You either need to do a custom front fender to latch on to the frame or you could get a "hitch winch mount" to use your existing tow hitch connection. Most winches are installed to get you out of trouble or to help someone else out of trouble and the front is the ideal location, so curious why you want to get one installed on a DJ?

I would recommend a DJ, at least a 3.6 for sure. So here is what you do... if you are getting a good deal and they have 40 units on the lot, you negotiate a lifetime warranty with the purchase. This should give you peace of mind and at the price you mention, it's still a good deal. Go get'em!!!

You don't mention doing anything, or what you have already done - other than the reader. So when you get it started, head to a trusted shop or auto supply shop and have them do a full battery test. If your battery is weak your DJ will have a hard time starting and throw out false codes (sometimes). That's the most basic thing you should do that should not cost you anything, but will probably lead you in the right direction.

More info would help, but if you are hearing a 'click' sound when trying to start it, it's usually the starter going bad. You can check the connections to the starter and also take it in to get tested. What year is your mum's DJ?

This seems fitting to this discussion... https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.cnbc.com/amp/2021/03/04/monthly-auto-loan-payments-surge-to-record-highs-experian-says.html

I wonder the same damn thing... and why?

Well, my journey with my Journey 'payments' comes to an end. Today I made my final payment on my DJ, and it felt great. From not knowing these vehicles whatsoever, to spotting one while shopping for a car 5 years ago, it's been a great decision overall. We're just a touch over 70k and the DJ has been great for the family. Moving away from a minivan and still having the third row option at this price point was a big reason I went with this car. Five years later the kids (4) are almost all driving their own cars and not joining us in our long trips as much. The last time I used that third row was over a year ago, but I still see all the kids in the rearview mirror every once in a while. Anyway, other than a warranty trannie issue this thing has been great. Regular maintenance and tires have been the only expense and it is still running strong. I ponder getting another car (Jeep, Durango, or Colorado) every once in a while, but I still enjoy driving my DJ. I've enjoyed this forum and can't believe I've been on here for 5 years. Here's to another 5 years - with no issues!!!

@OhareFred that's some great determination and great research. Amazing job getting this fixed and thanks for the updates.

If you have done your research and found a warranty satisfactory to you, canceling the dealer sold warranty should be as easy as a call to them requesting they email you the cancelation form. Email it back so you have proof when it was submitted (make sure it's within 30 days of purchase). Make sure it shows exactly how much they charged you for it and send a copy to the finance company (to reduce your loan). My exact steps when I bought my DJ and canceled the extended warranty.

It is great that they did what they did and everything worked out, but a gamble nonetheless. Glad it all worked out. Thanks for the share.

Thanks for the update. If I'm reading correctly, you changed the sensor and it fixed the CEL?

You're correct. I was more focused on the advertised warranty. @SashaP how they work out out for you. Look into the extended warranty... you do have 30 days to cancel this. Unless you got a good prove on it.

Two things... Since the car was advertised as 100k drivetrain warranty call Chrysler directly and tell them what is happening. I did when my transmission went out and got it done at my local dealer with a rental car added at no cost and no further problems. As far as the warranty, I guarantee you there is a clause somewhere in there that states there is a 30 day period before work is performed or for you to be able to cancel the warranty with no penalty. There should be a separate price for that warranty that would come off the total price of you cancel it... my guess would be $2-$3K charge worked into the price. The original warranty is 85k, but you bought the one advertised as 100k, at the Chrysler dealer at that. If they screwed up what they advertised, well it's not your problem. You'd be surprised how helpful they become if you speak to the corporate office directly. I had to contact both Chrysler and Ford when I had issues with my cars. Don't back down and good luck. Keep us posted.

Seen someone with this one on Facebook. Works well and completely compatible... https://www.ebay.com/itm/264980879374

It seems odd that you mention it still unlocks and locks your doors but will not start it. I know there's a lot backend stuff going on in that little thing, but needing to buy a new one is frustrating. Not sure if you have tried this one, but my mechanic buddy suggested this one. Says it helps on Chrysler cars. While in the car with the doors shut, hit unlock, then lock, then unlock and lock again, and see if it starts. There was a lot more conversation as to why, but it supposedly re-established the connection to the FOB. Hopefully it turns out to be something simple (and cheap), but let us know. Good luck...

I always like to stay with the simplest thing and go from there... - Did you buy a quality battery for the FOB? I bought a cheap battery from CVS, and had issues a week later. Replaced it with a Duracell, one year with no issues? - Did they check the ground connection when they replaced the battery? You get corrosion on the terminals (focusing on the ground) and cars act weird. - Did you get a quality battery for the car? These cars are temperamental, and don't like cheap batteries. If you have someone that can lend you a good battery charger, you can get that tested along with the alternator. - Try disconnecting the battery, then reconnect and jump. If this works, then yes you might have internal issues. I'm sure there are other suggestions coming, but always stay with the basics of you haven't already done so.

Congrats, they had it waiting for you. Welcome to the group... enjoy the DJ.

Uh...I read most of the manual. You'd be surprised what they put on there. Very informative and nice when you are sitting in the car waiting for the wife or kids. Would avoid a lot of those "Where is the fuse box?" Or "What's this light mean?" type of questions.

So was the problem in the contacts of the switch itself? I had a key FOB that wasn't working and a new one was over $100. I bought a new pad for $3 and boom it worked. The contacts were not connecting anymore. Makes me wonder if there was some corrosion in your switch that made for a bad contact. In any case, glad it worked out and was a cheap fix. Thanks for keeping us posted. ?

CORRECTION (can't edit)... "Around the same subject..."

I'm waiting for the restyled Journey... it's coming right? Seriously though, I went car viewing over the holidays (Jeep, Kia, Tahow) and scared the heck out of myself thinking about having a car payment again. If I did buy another vehicle, I'm buying a Range Rover for the wife (yeah, I know all the comments). With about 50% down, the payment will be just under $700...ewe.