Armando G

There could be so many reasons, but every one would be a guess. From what others have done, they might of pulled a 3500lb trailer with the car and burnt it out. Pan might of been hit/cracked while they were out using it like a 4x4 truck. Do the 18's have a transmission dipstick? I know some years do and some don't. Be interesting to hear what you find out when it arrives.

Well here we are at day 6 of my DJ being at the dealer. They say the transmission is gone and every code was from the transmission. They now need to take it apart and take pictures to send in for warranty approval, but have 4 other cars in front of me. Today I was told they should get approval by next Monday (REALLY!!!???). In the meantime I have no car and can't get a loaner/rental until the work is approved. FCA says they approve the work according to what is submitted by the dealer, but they told me to go ahead and rent a car... they may approve a reimbursement after the work is done. I can't afford a 'maybe' approval. So my question is... the dealership states it is my transmission that is under the powertrain warranty, but the dealership has to submit the work for approval, and FCA approves it depending on what the dealer is submitting, why do I have to wait? The dealer already stated it was the transmission that is covered under warranty. It was their product that crapped out on me, yet I have no car and they don't seem to be in any hurry. This dealership has always done the work on my car, so they have records of everything done to it. Car has been maintained and well taken care of. Anyway, had to vent a little since it seems like Dodge is very nonchalant about the whole thing. I didn't buy the car at this dealer so I am trying to be patient, but it gets frustrating when no one seems to really have any urgency and I'm the one suffering.

First of all, nice job getting the job done add a 'chick' (not that that should make a difference-I teach my daughters to do stuff like this all the time). I would love to see some pics of before and after, if you have them (you deserve to show off a little). From all my reading on that subject, I think infotainment had the best, easiest till to get that done. Take a look at the link. Not the cheapest, but avoid having to go to the dealer to get reprogrammed. Nice job getting it done and doing the research yourself. https://www.infotainment.com/products/obd-genie-chrysler-dodge-jeep-rear-view-camera-programmer-c-rvc?variant=22067424967

If you replace the battery with a good quality battery you should only have to deal with it 2-3 times during your ownership. Not worth the trouble.

Personally, I'm curious why this is in the 'Hauling and Towing' section? Were you pulling something when it happened? At 60k miles you're still under the 70k powertrain warranty.

More info. Are you getting a code? Are you talking about the sensor? What's going on with the car? I see a lot of help on the sensor, but that's it.

I guess I'm not as patient as some people. If a dealership is unwilling to find a solution to their products problem, I get on the phone with the manufacturer themselves. I explain the situation and ask them to find a solution and note my complain. I've had to do this with my Fords twice and they helped get my problem resolved. Ironically I had to drive to the furthest of the 3 dealers in my area (about an hour away), but ended up getting the best service I ever experienced. I'm experienced enough to know that clearing a code is not fixing the problem, and those codes usually pop up for a reason. My DJ is currently at the dealership getting transmission work done, but they have been amazing with any work they've done on my car so far. Take your car, along with the invoices from the times you brought it in, and take it to another dealer before the mileage gets to high.

Well, here we go. On my way home today, driving at a normal street speed of about 25 mph, I noticed my RPM's at around 5000 and the car starting to slow down. My 2015 sxt 6 cyl, was acting like it was in neutral and I was reving the engine (my foot was off the gas pedal). The car slowed to about 10 mph and all of a sudden it caught and everything seemed to be OK. My drive home is about 4 miles, so I continued with everything now seeming to be OK. About a half a mile from home, I tried to take off from a red light and nothing. The car just reved up and I went no where. Hazard lights on and my arm waving everyone around me (dirty looks and honking...yeah thanks). I turned the car off, sat there for about 20 seconds, and restarted it (I just wanted to get close to my house)...it went like normal. About a half a block further, it started reving up and it felt like neutral again. Check engine light came on and I coasted to a legal stop in a parking spot this time. Sat for another couple of minutes (called the wife to let her know I'm NOT out screwing around...very important you know), and gave it another go since I was now only 5 or 6 blocks away. Started up and drove like normal again...made it to the corner of my house and she started acting up again. This time I parked it and turned it off to walk the rest of the way. I pulled out my little trusty scanner and got 10 codes on the reader...what the heck?!?!? I immediately called my local dealership and scheduled an appointment for tomorrow morning. Planning on getting it towed to the dealership (thank you AAA) and am hoping it is all covered by the 5yr/100k mile powetrain warranty. The positive, I just got back from a 400 mile trip down to Disneyland in southern CA (I'm in northern CA). If this happened a few days ago I would of been screwed. Anyway, I have not had a single major issue with this car and my dealership has been amazing with any minor issue or recalls I have gone in for. I will update the post with what happens and hopefully it will all be good news. Irony here...I just had my other car (Ford Focus) at the dealership for over a week with a transmission job that was covered under warranty. The car is 7 years old with 68k miles and the first two dealerships told me it would cost me almost $6000 - no warranty. I called Ford directly and they got me set up with another dealership that was further away, but who fixed it all under warranty and gave me a loaner for the entire time the car was in there. Turns out the powertrain warranty for that car was extended to 10yrs/70k miles...I just made it. Hopefully I'll have just as good of an experience with Dodge...fingers crossed.

Yeah, but he says..."one of the FOB's". I assume that means there are two.

Use your warranty and make them fix it. But if you want to try something yourself first, try reprogramming your FOB to see if that helps. Plenty of videos online on how to do it.

Welcome aboard, hope it's as good to you as mine had been to me.

Thanks for the update. Was it pricey? Did it break under stress?

Still waiting for his McDonald's order???

Make sure it says "will fit" as opposed to "should fit"...CYA.

Taking a guess here, but if you convert from LED to incandescent I believe you need to use a converter to get more power, or do some rewiring for more current (or vice versa) . That was one of the requirements when I added my trailer wiring harness and if you do a search on "Tail light converting LED to incandescent" it showed its not just a plug in type of change. Looks like more work than I'd be willing to take on. Plus LED's should last longer. I personally hate electrical work so converting would not be an option for me.

Take the time to go somewhere (semi) local to you and get it figured out right there and then. My feeling, brakes are a pretty important part and I want to make sure I get the right quality part that I need. Like you said, you've already spent over 10 hours trying to figure out the wrong part, you've spent more money on your time than you should. Good luck.

Welcome aboard... no longer just a lurker.

First of all... don't know why my first post came up twice. As far as warranty, register on the Dodge site and you'll see an option for warranties. Otherwise, ask Mr. Google.

Welcome. Do the regular maintenance and most cars will do well for you OR buy an extended warranty and not worry about it... peace of mind and good choices out there.

Welcome. Do the regular maintenance and most cars will do well for you OR buy an extended warranty and not worry about it... peace of mind and good choices out there.

Are you referring to the thumping sound when you roll your back windows down a bit? And not trying to be mean, but did you really go back to the dealer for this? Here's a full explanation of that deafening sound if you're interested. It's all physics... https://jalopnik.com/why-do-slightly-opened-car-windows-make-that-awful-soun-1447498738

Head gasket problems in the past and some additive added to try to fix. Now a bigger issue at a higher expense... if it's even worth it. Good luck and let us know the findings.

Have you tried calling uconnect directly? When I had a couple of issues they walked me through a couple of steps that fixed my problem. I assume they have part numbers too if needed. They were great. https://www.driveuconnect.com/contact-us.html

Did you use an additive at some point? Like a stop leak fluid? Those usually have a metal look to them and it gets everywhere (I used it before). Otherwise you could have a broken part that is going through the cooling system. First suspect would be the thermostat. I would start with a full flush and take a look at the thermostat... and probably replace. Then get it up to normal temp, turn the car off and try to listen for a hiss. If it still overheats, run your other tests or get it tested before (hopefully) the engine has major problems. When this happened to my beamer, it was a warped head... when it happened to my Ford, it was a metal T connector that was literally falling apart. One was an $11 fix, the other an $1100 fix.

I am going to assume that was installed(?). How much was the part itself?