Armando G

Well, here we go. On my way home today, driving at a normal street speed of about 25 mph, I noticed my RPM's at around 5000 and the car starting to slow down. My 2015 sxt 6 cyl, was acting like it was in neutral and I was reving the engine (my foot was off the gas pedal). The car slowed to about 10 mph and all of a sudden it caught and everything seemed to be OK. My drive home is about 4 miles, so I continued with everything now seeming to be OK. About a half a mile from home, I tried to take off from a red light and nothing. The car just reved up and I went no where. Hazard lights on and my arm waving everyone around me (dirty looks and honking...yeah thanks). I turned the car off, sat there for about 20 seconds, and restarted it (I just wanted to get close to my house)...it went like normal. About a half a block further, it started reving up and it felt like neutral again. Check engine light came on and I coasted to a legal stop in a parking spot this time. Sat for another couple of minutes (called the wife to let her know I'm NOT out screwing around...very important you know), and gave it another go since I was now only 5 or 6 blocks away. Started up and drove like normal again...made it to the corner of my house and she started acting up again. This time I parked it and turned it off to walk the rest of the way. I pulled out my little trusty scanner and got 10 codes on the reader...what the heck?!?!? I immediately called my local dealership and scheduled an appointment for tomorrow morning. Planning on getting it towed to the dealership (thank you AAA) and am hoping it is all covered by the 5yr/100k mile powetrain warranty. The positive, I just got back from a 400 mile trip down to Disneyland in southern CA (I'm in northern CA). If this happened a few days ago I would of been screwed. Anyway, I have not had a single major issue with this car and my dealership has been amazing with any minor issue or recalls I have gone in for. I will update the post with what happens and hopefully it will all be good news. Irony here...I just had my other car (Ford Focus) at the dealership for over a week with a transmission job that was covered under warranty. The car is 7 years old with 68k miles and the first two dealerships told me it would cost me almost $6000 - no warranty. I called Ford directly and they got me set up with another dealership that was further away, but who fixed it all under warranty and gave me a loaner for the entire time the car was in there. Turns out the powertrain warranty for that car was extended to 10yrs/70k miles...I just made it. Hopefully I'll have just as good of an experience with Dodge...fingers crossed.

Yeah, but he says..."one of the FOB's". I assume that means there are two.

Use your warranty and make them fix it. But if you want to try something yourself first, try reprogramming your FOB to see if that helps. Plenty of videos online on how to do it.

Welcome aboard, hope it's as good to you as mine had been to me.

Thanks for the update. Was it pricey? Did it break under stress?

Still waiting for his McDonald's order???

Make sure it says "will fit" as opposed to "should fit"...CYA.

Taking a guess here, but if you convert from LED to incandescent I believe you need to use a converter to get more power, or do some rewiring for more current (or vice versa) . That was one of the requirements when I added my trailer wiring harness and if you do a search on "Tail light converting LED to incandescent" it showed its not just a plug in type of change. Looks like more work than I'd be willing to take on. Plus LED's should last longer. I personally hate electrical work so converting would not be an option for me.

Take the time to go somewhere (semi) local to you and get it figured out right there and then. My feeling, brakes are a pretty important part and I want to make sure I get the right quality part that I need. Like you said, you've already spent over 10 hours trying to figure out the wrong part, you've spent more money on your time than you should. Good luck.

Welcome aboard... no longer just a lurker.

First of all... don't know why my first post came up twice. As far as warranty, register on the Dodge site and you'll see an option for warranties. Otherwise, ask Mr. Google.

Welcome. Do the regular maintenance and most cars will do well for you OR buy an extended warranty and not worry about it... peace of mind and good choices out there.

Welcome. Do the regular maintenance and most cars will do well for you OR buy an extended warranty and not worry about it... peace of mind and good choices out there.

Are you referring to the thumping sound when you roll your back windows down a bit? And not trying to be mean, but did you really go back to the dealer for this? Here's a full explanation of that deafening sound if you're interested. It's all physics... https://jalopnik.com/why-do-slightly-opened-car-windows-make-that-awful-soun-1447498738

Head gasket problems in the past and some additive added to try to fix. Now a bigger issue at a higher expense... if it's even worth it. Good luck and let us know the findings.

Have you tried calling uconnect directly? When I had a couple of issues they walked me through a couple of steps that fixed my problem. I assume they have part numbers too if needed. They were great. https://www.driveuconnect.com/contact-us.html

Did you use an additive at some point? Like a stop leak fluid? Those usually have a metal look to them and it gets everywhere (I used it before). Otherwise you could have a broken part that is going through the cooling system. First suspect would be the thermostat. I would start with a full flush and take a look at the thermostat... and probably replace. Then get it up to normal temp, turn the car off and try to listen for a hiss. If it still overheats, run your other tests or get it tested before (hopefully) the engine has major problems. When this happened to my beamer, it was a warped head... when it happened to my Ford, it was a metal T connector that was literally falling apart. One was an $11 fix, the other an $1100 fix.

I am going to assume that was installed(?). How much was the part itself?

Are you talking about center caps? Or something else? Do you have a picture? Center caps are sold separately... https://www.ebay.com/p/New-in-Package-Dodge-Charger-Challenger-Journey-Center-Caps-Set-4-OEM-1SK35TRMAA/1130531786?iid=192951490495&rt=nc

Agreed...3 years ago when I bought mine, I didn't even know about these cars and definitely didn't see any in my area (Bay Area, CA). This past weekend my daughter noticed a lot of "twins" driving around. Even one around the corner from my place. I tend to stare at the driver wondering if it's one of you guys (sorry if you notice a guy staring at you)

Lots of work and probably expense, but definitey a feature I really (really) do like. My last van did not have this and that last row always got too hot, or just muggy from the AC barely reaching the rear. If you are curious, I found a video on how to just get to the blower motor. I assume they are all there...hope mine never goes out.

I'm at 63K and am having such a hard time not going in for a full tune up, or a brake change. Considering my last car was a '98 that required a yearly tune up and brakes (felt like it was yearly), I'm not used to letting certain things go to such a high mileage myself. But I do, do all of the regular maintenance stuff...and it runs great (2015 sxt btw).

What a shame. I was hoping to pass my 15 down to my kid and get a new model next year...NOT if it's a 2.4. Had a dream of a 3.6 AWD with 19" in wheels and a 8.4 screen w/bluetooth. So freakin' disappointed, my DJ has been great for us. Might have to become an EXPLORER on this next Journey (see what I did there).

Here is the general answer to you overflow from the reserve tank - an answer I wish I would of listened to on one of my last cars... The coolant in the engine has the job of removing heat from the engine and releasing the heat by way of the radiator. The coolant is circulated by the coolant pump. If there is a pressure created internally other than the coolant system creates, it can prevent this flow. If coolant is coming out of the overflow it is overheating. Coolant system failure can be a slow process until the signs are hard to ignore. Running the coolant fans are just masking the problem. Antifreeze has a time limit before it needs replacing, five years is the maximum time allow. If the vehicle has been overheated to a damaging point it can crack the engine’s cylinder heads causing a pressure to enter the coolant system. This will stop or slow the flow rate of the coolant pump which will cause a overheating condition. There are tests that can be preformed to confirm this. This is one of your first signs that something is wrong...or you just way over-filled your radiator. If you drive it and the temp goes to over half (definitely 3/4), turn your heater on to high as a simple test.

That's what I was going to say... but I got 2.69%