larryl

Probably not,sorry it happened to you

I should probably update this so anyone experiencing this can find the solution.
The simplest way of fixing this was just... Pulling the fuse.
We've been fine for 2 winters and have no more issues.
 
So... Yeah... The Bluetooth module killed like 4 batteries and cost us a couple grand in the process, stumping a large Dodge dealer and is for years.
Cool beans.

My fix for the phantom draw is a 6a/1a charger maintainer mounted on top of the motor by the jump points. Hooked into the block heater cord and the two chargeing clamps onto the jump points. Starts consistantly now.

That switch is very finicky as it does more than just brakes lights, it also works the shifter lock{what you are probably hearing} and also ties in with the push to start button.
Recheck connections on the switch and may have to adjust {somehow} the plunger throw for all to work. I've not had to deal with that switch on any of the 3 DJ's I've got, so good luck to you and keep us here informed to how things go.

You can put 17 or 18 on from a dodge caravan or other Journeys of the same year  just as long as they fit the hubs with the bigger dual caliper brakes

Second owner, 2016 DJ 126k miles. 3.6 engine, 62te automatic transmission. 
 
1)The battery is located down in front of the drivers side tire.
 
2) The biggest issue here, is that the battery cable terminal connections have no covers on them.
 
3) The next issue is, that rain water from the fender and hood drains on to the battery. I do have a fix for this problem.
 
I will do a separate post on that. 
 
The fix is to grease the entire positive terminal connection with dielectric grease. To seal out moisture. Then cover it. 
 
Use plenty of grease, it's cheap protection for your battery. To prevent arcing and shorting out. From water dripping on it. 
 
Go to Amazon buy this cover. You will use the red one on the positive terminal. This one is a perfect fit for the positive cable. 
 
https://a.co/d/5EsIjBj
 
 
The negative battery terminal. Has the IBS battery sensor on it. Clean and grease connections. 
 
I found this cover from Amazon. It works great. You have to trim it some to fit. Then use zip ties to secure it. Paint black for correct negative connection identification. 
 
https://a.co/d/hr9tqzU
 
 
I do have pictures.  But, I am unable to access them on my phone.
 
DR 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    

Sounds like you need a new battery. 

Same background here, I have friends yet that have their own shops and spend some time with them to keep up on things as best as able. I've even helped them out on some "perplexing" problems they've had come in.
Yes info/ DISinfo can be hard to find and put to use. Time is one "luxury"{?} I have to be able to spend on the web looking up stuff.
The TIPM/fuse panel is not easily bypassed for wiring circuitry and when multiple glitches show up, it's almost always best to find a replacement unit., the printed circuit board inside them loves to go bad with breaks or lost solder connections.

Your lucky if it works at all...
https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/search/?&q=Cannot unlock maps&sortby=relevancy

I assume that you're talking about the 3.6 engine.  I've done rockers myself a couple of times on different vehicles with this same engine.  I maintain my vehicles too, regular oil changes, etc... so it's a frustrating issue that seems unavoidable in some cases.  It's not a terribly tough job if you're mechanically-inclined.  The big reason for the expensive quotes is that the service manual, and associated hours for the job in the service manual include the removal of the camshafts.  It is absolutely possible to replace all the rockers WITHOUT removing the camshafts if the camshafts are not damaged by the faulty rocker(s).  There are some YouTube videos that show how to do this.  I'm not a professional mechanic, and I can replace all 12 rockers in a single cylinder head in about 2 hours myself.  If you don't want to do this yourself, then I'd search for a mechanic who knows how to do the job without removing the camshafts.

looks like a cover for an air vent from the underside of your car ,crawl under where you found it and look around should be easy to find where it goes back also you could take it to your local dodge dealership and they would be able to tell you where it goes or any auto body shop should or could tell you as well if they want to help.please report back on what you find out    I have never seen one on a dodge journey BUT pickup trucks usually  have one located on the rear wall near the floor of the cabin to let air out of the truck cabins so the ac/heat work properly 

Get the code read and you might find out why. 

Blend door malfunction. 

contact the company and let them know about your problems with this car, instead call them and let them inspect in front of you.

English please. 

Time to replace the rear license plate.  10 minute job, right?  Ah.... No.
(2014 DJ - plates last replaced 10 years ago-ish.)
 
I was unable to remove the bolts that hold the plate on.  Both fastening devices attached to the tailgate for the bolts just spin, and spin, and spin.
(They are not the plastic square nut type.)
On researching further, this is a common problem across multiple manufacturers.
 
To jump to the middle of the project, below is what the fastening devices look like AFTER the license plate was brutally removed.  They are a type of soft metal, not plastic, internally threaded to accept the bolt.
The license plate bolt corroded inside of these, locked tight, and these would just spin (instead of the bolt coming out).  Temperatures were in the mid 30f's, which probably didn't help.
The (red) body panel these are inserted in is fiberglass (not plastic nor metal).  Multiple attempts to grip these and/or stop them from spinning failed.  I needed to hold these from the backside to get the bolts out.
 
 
 
 
 
After removing the inside tailgate panel,  there is not direct access to them.  I was able to snake my fingers to one of them through an access hole, but not able to grip it with pliers or vise grips.
Luckily the inside panel covering the devices is fiberglass or plastic, is easily identified, and easy to cut with a dremel tool.
Below is picture of the access holes cut.  I then clamped on vise grips and was able to turn the bolts out.  Even then, the bolts did not want to easily release and turn. 
They definitely were corroded in tight.
With the vise grip still on, from the outside I then drilled off the device.
 
 

 
To replace the hardware, now with access to both side, there are options.  Simplest would be to use a standard nut, bolt, & washers.  Granted if/when the license plate would be to be changed again, it would require removing the inside tailgate panel again.  Another option would be to reverse the orientation of the bolt and nut so it becomes a stud.  The license plate would then be fastened on with a nut/acorn nut.  I went with option 3, those rubber expanding gizmo's from the hardware store (below).
The holes had to be enlarged slightly to access these, but again, its a fiberglass panel (easy to drill out).  The hardware store also had the plastic square nuts that snap in place, but I passed on this option as I was unsure about the thickness of the fiberglass and if the plastic nut would securely snap in.
 
 

 
For grins, I gooped on some adhesive caulk I had lying around and bolted up the plate.  The rubber expanded as expected when the bolts were tightened and gripped firmly.
 
 

 
 
When researching solutions, there are several postings in this forum mentioning incorrect license plate screws, screw that fell out, screws that would just pull out, etc...
This explains why.  The PO or used car dealer may have had a similar experience.
 
Merry Christmas!
 
 
 
 

Pretty easy. There may be a plastic cover that hides the nut holding the wiper on the stem. This will pry off easily with a small flat-head screwdriver.
Next, remove the nuts. If the wipers won't pull off, strike the wiper arm directly on the joint. This may take a few good strikes. Use a hammer and a block of wood if need be.
Remove the wiper arms from the stem totally. Try to line up the wiper blade where you think it should be on the windshield and push the wiper arm back down onto the stem. The reason you want to try to position the blade first is because the stem has ribs that the hole of the wiper arm lock into when you press the arm onto the stem. Some windshields will have little black hash marks where the wiper blades should be when not in use.
When you think you have the wipers lined up, tighten the nuts back onto the stem. Spray the windshield with glass cleaner and run the wipers at high speed. Testing the wipers while the windshield is wet ensures that the wipers won't slap the cowl or A pillar, because they actually travel a little further while running fast across a wet windshield. It also reduces the likelihood of scratching the glass.
If everything looks good, ensure the bits are properly tightened and snap the covers back into the base of the wiper arms.

And the same MERRY CHRISTMAS greetings back to you! yes he is in his third year with WNYPA, and they share track time on a lot of their runs with the railroad {freight} out of Buffalo around the "Southern Tier" of NY.
The company has had a substantial turnover in employees since he's been there. most didn't like the working hours. After what he got himself into buying a house, he's happy to work the long hours for now!

My cousin worked for several different railroads over the years as they went Thru there consolidations and ended up being CSX, he started out a reg worker then got laid off and then called back as a mechanic trainee, and then laid off again then called back as a engineer trainee, and finally got enough time in to not be laid off, and then he went into salary there and ended up becoming the yard manager for CSX and they transferred him all over the country every few yrs and then he finally retired and man he is well off with a fancy home in florida and they just built a big home on a golf course in Tn

Trains don't stop for holidays..these wheels must turn lol
Almost 36 yrs with CN I knew it well
Tell him to stay safe  and Merry Christmas to you and yours

Very well liked by executives and co workers as a matter of fact. Loved trains since a baby ! He has collections of toy and model trains that overflow his old bedroom. On his job interview he even corrected "bosses" about types of cars and terms!
We found out today that he is coming back home a day early {Thurs}, but has to work his normal shift Friday. He's going to be one tired puppy for the Christmas weekend! He's still waiting to find out if he has to do a run Christmas Day afternoon !

At least he's not being punished by the "Big Boys" I thought maybe Altoona or something glad he enjoys his work
No shortlines when I hired on LOL

I posted previously about a whining noise that I could not get fixed. It ended up being the alternator decoupler or clutch. I don't know why in the workd anybody would want to install an extra part on an alternator but I swapped it out the wine is gone. A good tip on a 2013 journey se. It's so much easier if you just remove the alternator then the pulley no special tool needed hex bit and air impact. All I ended up using.  I just wanted to share, thanks guys.

TPM module  NOT the TIPM module    two totally different  modules  and    NO they are not GOOD ,,,,,,,  the tpms module is remembering the last position and giving false readings, I just went Thru what you are experiencing  6 months ago on my 2014 crossroad   was about to give up on it and not bother to fix it and the wife wasn't happy with that,  so I went to my tire shop and they messed with it a while and then said well the batteries are going bad and I had them replaced cost me around $300 parts and labor for 4 new sensors if I remember correctly,,,, and THAT fixed my problem,,,the TPM module is in your rear left wheel well above the top of the tire well

Maybe it is oil?