TexMarc Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 I apologize in advance for the length of this post...but I feel that there is LOTS of information that you need to know to be able to render an opinion. I thank you in advance for your patience. OK, so.... This morning I had a trailer hitch attached to my 2015 Dodge Journey Crossroad, with the 6 cyl engine. It was from etrailers dot com. Plenty of power in the Journey to pull the trailer I purchased. They get it all hooked up and I drive home to get my trailer. Once I get everything to hook up, I find that I can only get my flashers to work on the trailer. No tail-lights, no blinkers, no break lights...only the flashers would work. I call up the people where I purchased the trailer, they tell me that everything should be working. It is a used trailer (2012) but they've literally gone through and replaced everything except the frame. No reason it shouldn't be working. So I take it to the shop where they installed the trailer hitch. The guy scratches his head when he sees that only the flashers are working. So he gets his tester out and plugs it into the 7 pin/blade receiver that they installed. I run through the gamut of signals and lights...and his tester shows that everything is working! So it must be something the Trailer sales place messed up. Right? I go to the Trailer sales place and they say, no...it can't be. We literally changed everything. They get out their tester...same results as the hitch shop. Everything works with the tester, but not with the trailer. So the owner gets under there and starts checking things and for an hour he can't find anything wrong. He replaces wiring, connectors, the ground...everything you can imagine...but it won't work...except for the flashers! So I leave the trailer with him and before I even get home (15 min ride to my place) he calls me and says that he hooked up the trailer to HIS truck (newer and very nice) and everything works great! He just now called again and said they hooked it up to one of his employee's vehicles which is an older Tahoe and everything is working great! All of the fuses are good, there are 3 different ground points on the trailer now, so that's not it. None of this makes any sense at all! Is it possible that the 2015 Dodge Journeys might have some kind of an amp draw blockage? Some kind of switch that might have gotten flipped before I purchased the vehicle last year? Maybe a reset button somewhere? I am at my wit's end...and I need to have this trailer ready to go in a short amount of time because we are using it to move some of our stuff to TN from TX. I thank you for taking the time to read this...and hopefully, someone has an answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 Did you have the Dodge computer flashed for towing? That’s the only thing I can think of. Even though the tester works, the fact that everything on the trailer works properly with other cars leads me to think the bulb draw is too much and the Dodge is reading the increased draw as an issue. I know if you want to use the factory trailer wiring the car needs to be flashed, might be the same here....let us know what you find out. TexMarc and larryl 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 CURT 56330 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness for Select Dodge Journey..................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexMarc Posted February 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 3 hours ago, OhareFred said: Did you have the Dodge computer flashed for towing? That’s the only thing I can think of. Even though the tester works, the fact that everything on the trailer works properly with other cars leads me to think the bulb draw is too much and the Dodge is reading the increased draw as an issue. I know if you want to use the factory trailer wiring the car needs to be flashed, might be the same here....let us know what you find out. OhareFred: Thank you for your comment. With regard to the "bulb draw" ... everything is LED lights, so that shouldn't even be an issue...right? It seems to me like this has to be a grounding issue. And because of that, I am beginning to wonder if it has to do with my trailer ball. When I initially picked up the trailer, I had my Dodge Dakota...and I had that same exact problem. Flashers were fine, nothing else would light up. I sold that truck the day after I brought the trailer home and then used my Journey....and I was using the same trailer ball...which, while not a new ball, it still has most of its chrome on it. I have another one that I'll try out tomorrow that is substantially older and might give it a better connection for a ground. Thank you again for your comments, and I will definitely keep the flashing part in mind. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 (edited) Ground shouldn’t be an issue, one of the wires in the 7 pin connector will be ground. I believe led need a special wire harness for trailer lights to tie in car. It’s a small black box inline in the harness like what is showing in the link below. Regular vehicles just tie right in without it. Look at your new wiring to see if there is a converter box in line. You can add a diode by itself as well if you known what you are doing, but led converter module easier. New Ford F150s requires flashing ecm for trailer wiring, but that is mainly for the trailer brake controller that is built Into dash. One pic shows led harness the other is the regular lights harness. These are diy pig tail hook ups, no cutting wires or splicing or heat shrink connections. Is there a Uhaul trailer place near by? They are usually pretty good for trailer hook ups, around a long time. Good luck on your big move. Edited February 13, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 (edited) I said diode, I meant adding a resistor. You can also install an LED bulb load resistor on the tow vehicle. One resistor is required for each LED turn signal. ... Since the incandescent lights have a higher draw, it is possible for the LED lights to burn out if they wired in line with incandescent lights. Replacing Incandescent with LED lights on your Trailer - CMI Edited February 13, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexMarc Posted February 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 7 hours ago, John/Horace said: I said diode, I meant adding a resistor. You can also install an LED bulb load resistor on the tow vehicle. One resistor is required for each LED turn signal. ... Since the incandescent lights have a higher draw, it is possible for the LED lights to burn out if they wired in line with incandescent lights. Replacing Incandescent with LED lights on your Trailer - CMI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexMarc Posted February 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 John/Horace - thank you for your input. I'll check into the flashing and the wiring harness you suggested. All of the trailer lights are LEDs, my brake lights are LEDs, but I do believe my headlights are regular incandescent bulbs. Not sure if that matters. As for U-Haul, yes, lots of those around here. If the folks who installed my hitch and wiring can't get it figured out, I may have to go to U-Haul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 If your vehicle didn't come with the tow package I agree you probably need a flash from a dealer to activate the BCM On my 13 I needed to get it flashed even with the tow package 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexMarc Posted February 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 5 hours ago, larryl said: If your vehicle didn't come with the tow package I agree you probably need a flash from a dealer to activate the BCM On my 13 I needed to get it flashed even with the tow package Thanks for the response, larryl. After calling at least 15 different Dodge dealers in my area, I finally got one of them to actually talk to me about my issues. From what he said, basically, if your vehicle didn't leave the factory with the towing package installed...then you must have the ECM flashed to get it to recognize that the vehicle is going to be towing stuff. What he actually said sounded much smarter...but I'm old and don't remember things word for word anymore. Fortunately, I have a mechanic right down the road who can do the flashing for me, without having to go to the dealer and wait for 2 hours. larryl, you also stated that the flash would activate the BCM which I'm guessing is the brake control module? My intention was to get one of these https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Dodge/Journey/2015/C51180.html?vehicleid=2015201583062 . I know the old way of installing the BCM was running wires all the way to the front of the vehicle and plugging it in to the slot under the dash where the plug in the test monitors to read error codes. This one that I linked to will let me do all of the adjustments via an app on my phone. I'm confused now as to which one of those I would need. Y'all's input has been invaluable. The photo below shows the set up I am running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 first off the bcm IS NOT the brake control module, it is called a Body control modules ,,also i would likely not to believe a reg mechanic can flash this for you instead of the dealership, of course i could be wrong since iv been married 3 times....the link you are showing IS not what you need, hate to say you are in way over your head you need to go to a good garage that knows what they are doing with hitches and the wiring or go to the dealership to get it down correctly, but that will cost you a bit extra jkeaton and larryl 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexMarc Posted February 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 30 minutes ago, 2late4u said: first off the bcm IS NOT the brake control module, it is called a Body control modules ,,also i would likely not to believe a reg mechanic can flash this for you instead of the dealership, of course i could be wrong since iv been married 3 times....the link you are showing IS not what you need, hate to say you are in way over your head you need to go to a good garage that knows what they are doing with hitches and the wiring or go to the dealership to get it down correctly, but that will cost you a bit extra I asked the question about the BCM with the ? at the end of it, because I wasn't sure if that was the correct name. Thank you for telling me the proper terminology for it. As for the local mechanic being able to flash the ECM, I was guided by a dealer to do so. The link I showed is exactly what I need and 3 different shops have agreed with me. That unit alleviates the need to run wiring all the way up to the front of the vehicle, and also makes it to where I don't have to have the brake controller plugged into the OBD. I've already been to a good garage that knows what they're doing. It is safe to say that this is the first time they have worked on my particular vehicle, but that doesn't mean they don't know what they're doing. Thanks for playing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 (edited) that sure is an expensive way to solve your problem then, as a simple led light kit and run the power wire to the battery sure would be a lot cheaper. your welcome,, love to play....i have to ask,,, your question was why the trailer lights are not working but you end up going to buy a brake controller as a fix for your problem???????????????????????????????They get it all hooked up and I drive home to get my trailer. Once I get everything to hook up, I find that I can only get my flashers to work on the trailer. No tail-lights, no blinkers, no break lights...only the flashers would work. I call up the people where I purchased the trailer, they tell me that everything should be working. It is a used trailer (2012) but they've literally gone through and replaced everything except the frame. No reason it shouldn't be working. So I take it to the shop where they installed the trailer hitch. The guy scratches his head when he sees that only the flashers are working. So he gets his tester out and plugs it into the 7 pin/blade receiver that they installed. I run through the gamut of signals and lights...and his tester shows that everything is working! So it must be something the Trailer sales place messed up. Right? I go to the Trailer sales place and they say, no...it can't be. We literally changed everything. They get out their tester...same results as the hitch shop. Everything works with the tester, but not with the trailer. So the owner gets under there and starts checking things and for an hour he can't find anything wrong. He replaces wiring, connectors, the ground...everything you can imagine...but it won't work...except for the flashers! Edited February 13, 2020 by 2late4u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexMarc Posted February 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 21 hours ago, OhareFred said: Did you have the Dodge computer flashed for towing? That’s the only thing I can think of. Even though the tester works, the fact that everything on the trailer works properly with other cars leads me to think the bulb draw is too much and the Dodge is reading the increased draw as an issue. I know if you want to use the factory trailer wiring the car needs to be flashed, might be the same here....let us know what you find out. OhareFred - I am working on getting the computer flashed as per what a local Dodge dealer told me to do. Hopefully, that takes care of the rest of it and maybe even gives me some updates on other things my rig might need! I'll let you know. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 The ECM is not the BCM E stands for engine....B stands for body nothing to do with your engine at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armando G Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 I'm reading all the suggestions, but I don't see anywhere how the electrical is hooked up. Did whomever hooked up your hitch and wiring use the factory connection or did they use an OEM connector directly to your tail lights? In either case there seems an extra step was missed. Call whomever installed it to find out if necessary. If connected to the factory hookup, it needs to get reflashed (your choice where to go). From what I read, if they didn't use the correct connection (there are a couple), out may not work regardless. If OEM connector, you need to make sure they used the proper wiring harness with the resister AND it had its own power source directly to the battery. If you want to check yourself, follow the wiring harness and see if it ends up by the spare or by your left tail lights (usually). Spare tire is factory, left tail light is OEM. When I installed mine I was told I did not need the resistor, but with the LED lights you do need the resister. Figure out which connection you have and you can solve the issue. If you don't do one of those things, the brake lights will not work. OhareFred, John/Horace and 2late4u 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexMarc Posted February 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2020 On 2/12/2020 at 4:44 PM, TexMarc said: I apologize in advance for the length of this post...but I feel that there is LOTS of information that you need to know to be able to render an opinion. I thank you in advance for your patience. OK, so.... This morning I had a trailer hitch attached to my 2015 Dodge Journey Crossroad, with the 6 cyl engine. It was from etrailers dot com. Plenty of power in the Journey to pull the trailer I purchased. They get it all hooked up and I drive home to get my trailer. Once I get everything to hook up, I find that I can only get my flashers to work on the trailer. No tail-lights, no blinkers, no break lights...only the flashers would work. I call up the people where I purchased the trailer, they tell me that everything should be working. It is a used trailer (2012) but they've literally gone through and replaced everything except the frame. No reason it shouldn't be working. So I take it to the shop where they installed the trailer hitch. The guy scratches his head when he sees that only the flashers are working. So he gets his tester out and plugs it into the 7 pin/blade receiver that they installed. I run through the gamut of signals and lights...and his tester shows that everything is working! So it must be something the Trailer sales place messed up. Right? I go to the Trailer sales place and they say, no...it can't be. We literally changed everything. They get out their tester...same results as the hitch shop. Everything works with the tester, but not with the trailer. So the owner gets under there and starts checking things and for an hour he can't find anything wrong. He replaces wiring, connectors, the ground...everything you can imagine...but it won't work...except for the flashers! So I leave the trailer with him and before I even get home (15 min ride to my place) he calls me and says that he hooked up the trailer to HIS truck (newer and very nice) and everything works great! He just now called again and said they hooked it up to one of his employee's vehicles which is an older Tahoe and everything is working great! All of the fuses are good, there are 3 different ground points on the trailer now, so that's not it. None of this makes any sense at all! Is it possible that the 2015 Dodge Journeys might have some kind of an amp draw blockage? Some kind of switch that might have gotten flipped before I purchased the vehicle last year? Maybe a reset button somewhere? I am at my wit's end...and I need to have this trailer ready to go in a short amount of time because we are using it to move some of our stuff to TN from TX. I thank you for taking the time to read this...and hopefully, someone has an answer. Just as a final statement on this matter.... After everything was said and done, the problem with the brakes is that the hitch installers didn't do it correctly. However, after a few tries, they finally got it right. Part of the issue was that the brake lights line was initially attached to the line that controls the brakes. Which explains why they were almost locking up on me if I even tapped them. But, all of that is fixed now. The other issue...and frankly I think it was the MAIN issue all along, was that they had to install new wiring that also came with a converter that told the vehicle that the trailer was there...or something like that. All I know is that it now works and I'm happy. A big thank you goes out to those who actually tried to help...without turning into condescending ass clowns. jkeaton, larryl and OhareFred 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armando G Posted February 25, 2020 Report Share Posted February 25, 2020 Your welcome!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 Did they have to flash (programm) the ecm to enable trailer harness wiring to function on vehicle? Usually dealer needed. Glad you got it sorted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexMarc Posted February 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 I attempted to have the flashing done, because that's what the Service Desk at a Dodge dealership told me had to be done. However, when the guy hooked up his computer he said he couldn't do it because there was no 'trailer control module' on the vehicle. Thankfully I didn't get charged for that. The only thing that fixed it was putting the converter on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 But it was never flashed by the trailer wiring guys, interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 If they used a converter I doubt they used the factory trailer wire harness. Likely tapped in to left and right side taillights. Wouldn’t need a flash then.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge hualing Posted July 7, 2021 Report Share Posted July 7, 2021 I know I’m late to this conversation but some really good comments here and I also just got a hitch installed on my 2019 Dodge Journey crossroad witch has led tail light and for the regulator 4 prong wiring harness i had to get one that brings in additional power because the leds don’t bring in the 12 volts or the amarage because they are all running off modules now so they can running lower amounts of power further more brings me to my questions because dealer ships can’t seem to answer my question so I’m forced the bring it here due to they want $500 to set up a brake controller. Now bring back my statement about using modules to just send enough voltage for signals I’m having a hard time trying to wire my brake controller in due to not enough voltage at the switch by the brake pedal. Also further more in to testing and finding out that the switch down by the pedal n longer runs the brake lights where do I find I need to wire this in to because my next step is to just run a wire from where the brake light wire is in the back of my car and run it to a relay then to my brake controller so it works. And on the note that anyone says using a relay to control a brake controller doesn’t think it will work i;ve tested it and it does work. Also I’m a big rid tech so automotive is slightly out of my domain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexMarc Posted July 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2021 My issue was finally solved by having a 7 pin (with a side 4 pin on the side as well) that was all one piece. Once they were able to run part of the wiring up to the rear LEDs, all of the lights worked, and everything else was perfect. I decided to use an ECHO Smart Brake Controller which gave me the ability to adjust the brake pressure to whatever size load I'm hauling. Best of luck to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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