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Posts posted by Lobitz68
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They really do need to add it to the drop-down list on their universal kits. Calling wasn't an option since they were out of the office for the holiday weekend, and I was taking advantage of the 25% off discount code.
That's what I did... I called Monday.
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What exactly was missing from the harness? I also ordered the canbus as it was the only option.
The Mopar harness is different from the canbus. It has a capacitor in it to absorb the PWM from the headlight wiring in order to keep the relay closed when the supply voltage drops. The Mopar harness does NOT have the canbus portion as that does not work for the Dodge vehicles. When I ordered my kit a year+ ago, I called them and said I wanted the Mopar harness and they sent me a special invoice. Not sure why they don't just have it as an option on the site.
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I believe it will turn off after you address it the first time, but I'm sure someone else will chime in with a more positive answer.
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I have AWD, but I do agree that it handles the snow quite well. This year I bought snow tires for the first time in my life and so far the ground is still bare. Go figure...
- jkeaton, dhh3 and 2011DodgeRamJourney
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Its an intermittent thing, every couple of weeks it leaves me stranded. When it happens , it won't start in park or neutral. Again , if the battery was weak , wouldn't the headlights dim when attempting to start ? My lights are very bright and do not dim . ! Makes me believe that power is not going to the starter at all . have read that people have had this problem and changed batteries or starters because dodge technicians told them and it did not fix the problem.
Sorry, I understood that your issue was intermittent, I was asking about the transmission interlock issue.
What larryl is getting at with his post is that the vehicle may not believe it is in Park or Neutral and is therefore not starting. I thought that when the interlock was bad it wouldn't shift at all, but thought I may be wrong. I was trying to clarify exactly what larryl was getting at.
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These newer Dodges are super finicky with the power supply. At 6+ years old, I would replace the battery, but if you don't want to do that I would at least load test it as mentioned. The battery doesn't have to be toast for it to not play nice with the car. Long gone are the days of the simple vehicles; all of the electronics present nowadays bring a new factor to the equation. One dead cell could wreak havoc.
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Lobitz, now that you have winter tires, go get some used alloys for them! Then you don't have to change the rubber on the dipped wheels. I counted 24 alloys in the Twin Cities area on car-part.com. P.S. never believe the price they post. Everything at a wrecker is negotiable.
I was thinking about getting new summer wheels. I will decide in the spring.
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The fact that it is clicking means it is trying to start, so I am leaning away from the fob. This (one click) is usually a tell tale sign that the starter is not getting full voltage from the battery (i.e., a bad battery). You say that you know the battery is good; can you expand on how you know this to be true? There are many reasons why a battery may appear to be fine when in fact it is not...
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Ha! All I have done is my wheels and anything not black on the front end... and it was right after I bought it 2 years ago. I figured I'd have to touch it up quite a bit (pun INTENDED ), but not yet
- 11journeybama, jkeaton and dhh3
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Mine are sometimes hard to move. Check for obstructions.
Both sides of mine have been hard to slide from day one. One day, if I get ambitious enough, I'll spray a little WD40 on the tracks.
Both sides of my DJ have rear seats thatwont slide forward or backward. UNLESS someone is sitting in the seat. For some reason the weight and pressure allows the handle to come all the way up so it can slide. Otherwise the handle won't move. The tracks have enough lube to make a porn film. Lol
Sissies...
- 11journeybama and dhh3
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I'll be using the standard Gatling Guns with my MH1 7.0 low beams. They finally came in on Friday, though the harnesses I got aren't what I was expecting. Couldn't order the Mopar harness with the MH1 stage 3, so I ordered canbus 9006 and got canbus eliminators with no HD relay harness... working with TRS to figure out exactly what it is I'll need for it to work the first time.
You could have ordered the correct harness, you just needed to call them. Bummer that you have to deal with it now...
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What shrouds did everyone go with?
I went with the square Apollo 1.0's...
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If they move the tire to a different hub and the fault follows
then it's the wheel unit either faulty or wrong frequency (MHz).
If it shows the fault for the same wheel hub then it would be
indicative of a faulty receiver.
that's what I was gonna say... more or less. move the tire and see if the situation follows suit or not.
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I have the Curt receiver that hangs below the bumper. It doesn't look bad at all. I wouldn't bother with some clown cutting my bumper and using the less robust receiver just to avoid seeing it. You wouldn't even notice mine if you weren't looking for it (and that's with the 2" receiver tube).
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It won't let me text and drive for some reason it's against the law .
I've tried but I just get the this feature is not available while in motion message.
I wonder if this is a change in 2015??? Are you using the voice command to try and send the text? You can't reply on the screen in motion but you can most definitely use voice commands in my 2014 to send the canned responses... I doubt it is a law thing. Texting while driving is illegal everywhere I think; it is definitely illegal in MN and mine works (via voice commands).
Sound on Sat, but AM/FM is dead
in Audio, Infotainment Navigation, MyGig, UConnect, etc.
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They will do this.