Lobitz68

looks like these are all 2010's... I don't have any suggestions beyond disconnecting the battery to reset the computers and checking the wiring for damage or loose connections.

I converted the stock HI Beams to HIDs in my Freemont. I use a driving light relay harness to power the modules and the stock harness to provide the signal to the relay. Results are that the HID's flash once when firing up and then build up steadily with no flickering.

The road laws in OZ states that "using HID's in the main beam (dipped, or low) the headlights must have self leveling and washers. In the HI beam (driving) there are no restrictions as you should dip your light in oncoming traffic.

That's why hi beams only, low beams require all the extra's to stay legal, not to mention as above the low beams setups are very specific to the light globes fitted and the optics of the reflectors are not set up for HID's.

I would think that unless you were away from traffic and had them on for a while, HIDs would be fairly useless in the high beam. As you stated, there is a warm up time, so constantly turning them off and on would seem to mean that they are rarely producing full lumens... Probably shorten their life too.

Andbbeing made be eagle eyes means??

I think he likes the brand... based on other posts.

Lots of info on the good ol web.

http://carsintrend.com/2016-dodge-journey-review-and-release-date/

Ha! That was painful to read... couldn't make it past the second paragraph without giving up.

It only applies if you have the remote start from what I can tell. I say that because while my vehicle has the OEM alarm, it doesn't have remote start and on mine the windows can't be closed from the FOB.

That was what I was thinking... I have remote start, but no the OEM system.

Glad I live where don't have to worry about winter tires

Why would a tire cause you worry? I live in a very snowy climate and have never worried about winter tires... I am trying some out for the first time this season, but I'm not worried about them one bit!

I think he is saying that if you use the switchback module on the inside light it MAY work as a brake light. BUT, if you use it as a brake light you cannot use it as a turn signal.

Basically it would receive the stock signal until the brakes were applied and would then switch to that. Still not so sure that the brightness of the light would change.

Also, I cannot agree to disagree!! Now I'm going to have to take time out of my weekend to take pics of the damn meter with the running lights on and the brake lights on... I NEED to be right.

Nice job, thanks for posting. I'm sure people will need this at some point.

...I know the 2011 and later does have the feature of using the fob

lock button 2x and hold to open front windows.

Oh yeah?? On every model?

I wonder if the insurance co will replace all the extra you have done to your Journey. am I seeing L.E.D halo lights on your journey or is that custom work on those head lights? if so man that will suck cause your have to redo all that ! Anyways at least everyone was ok and that def is good !

He has retrofitted projector headlights with halo's... Luckily, he did all the work himself, so he is only out a fraction of the cost of a purchased set.

Wish ours were that way. Even with the tool, I find it quite annoying and it makes the brake job take that much longer. Oh well...

Bummer... At least everyone is alright though. Material possessions can always be fixed/replaced. That sweet retro is hanging in pieces!!

A year later.....

Hahaha!!

Brakes get hot and the brakes on the pre-2012 models are undersized, so some heat is definitely possible. You should be able to touch your rim without burning your hand. Do you have any pulsating feel when braking, or any other signs that they are getting overly hot?

The Journey's rear calipers need the piston to turn in order to compress it? That's a first. I've never seen an American car need that.... only Volvos. Was it designed in Sweden or something?

All of them I have done have been that way, including a couple Japanese cars too...

yeah, I may end up just using plasti dip. If I dont like it, Ill at least be able to remove it easily enough. I dipped my wheels on my altima a few years ago and it looked and held up pretty well.

Mine have been done for more than a year and have held to Minnesota winters as well as a couple of very aggressive car washes (bristle wheel cleaners). They look like they did the day I did them. I did use the UV rated dip and put a shit ton (metric) of glossifier on them though.

There should be 0 volts to the brake lights, unless the brake pedal is pressed. As I already stated, I tied into the 12v tail light wire for my rear fog lights. They get 12v, and their brightness is between the intensity of the LED tail and brake lights. I wish that it was 6v as stated: they would be dimmer - maybe the same intensity of the LED tail lamps.

Not if your headlights are on... that is when there is a 6 volt signal.

From the service manual it self: "The water pump draws coolant from the radiator and delivers it to the engine block. The coolant travels through the engine block into the cylinder head. Coolant exits the engine at the thermostat. If the coolant temperature is

less than 87°C (189°F) the thermostat directs all of the coolant back to the water pump. If the coolant temperature is between 87°C (189°F) and 102°C (216°F) the thermostat is in the mix mode and directs the coolant to the radiator and the water pump. If the coolant is greater than 102°C (216°F), the thermostat directs all of the coolant to the radiator."

Also a good indication of high temps is excessive use of the fan on high speed frequently, starting and stopping...

RADIATOR FAN OPERATION - 3.5L ENGINE

Radiator Fan Control A/C Pressure

A/C Off Low High

Fan On: 102°C (215°F) 104°C (219°F)

Fan Off: 98°C (208°F) 100°C (212°F)

A/C On Low High Low High

Fan On: 102°C (215°F) 104°C (219°F) 1,526 Kpa (221 psi) 1,932 Kpa (280 psi)

Fan Off: 98°C (208°F) 100°C (212°F) 1,246 Kpa (180 psi) 1,666 Kpa (224 psi)

if your indication is at the middle is normally and also you could say that close to 100 degrees Celsius is normal. to monitor this value very close you would need to plug one of those OBD2 to monitor. But as DodgeCares above says if you have any doubts take it to a dealer especially if it is under warranty.

He has a 2013... I'm pretty sure you can monitor most, if not all, of the important temperatures from the EVIC display in the dash...

I sent an email to diodedynamics to see if they make a gizmo so that the inside LEDs can be a brake light too. They are not open on the weekends. I'm going to leave the signal amber

Also, need recommendations for a brighter back up bulb. Type and bulb # would be great so I know what I'm looking for. Thank you.

They won't have anything like that and won't offer suggestions without having a DJ to look at (I have spoken to them already). I'm still guessing that there just isn't anything connected to that 3rd pin inside the housing. It's not worth cracking it open to find out though, so I will just stick with my LED ring as the brake and turn. Still looks 100X better than the amber light.

Enjoy the new ride.

If you plan to hang on to it for a while I suggest you may want to have it rustproofed - it will stop any new rust from developing where the application reaches and it will help to limit the impact of corrosion on the electric wiring and connectors - it also will dampen any loose bits that may cause chassis rattles - all in all a reasonable result for a $75 investment.

You pimp this rustproofing quite a bit...what brand did you use? Obviously you feel it is a worthwhile investment, have anything specific to share about it?

Do the brakes and get a good set of pads and rotors ...

Agreed. Anything that isn't bottom of the line will be better than the factory brakes. Personally, I have had success with EBC brakes and rotors as well as most of your typical aftermarket brands. If you can do the work yourself (brakes are a great starter project because they are easy), then you can get new rotors and pads for a VERY reasonable price. Much less than what you would get charged to have them installed at a shop...

Now I think what can I do with that grill now that I know how to pull that bad boy out. Oh man my mind is in over gear ! Maybe I will spray paint the black inside part of the chrome grill that is black a chrome color or buy some paint that matches my paint and paint it then clear coat it.. I think the black plastic look inside the chrome is cheap. It needs to either be painted or chromed. I think black paint with clear coat would look nice.

I like the black cross bars... I would paint the chrome to match the paint.

A lot of cars have the option to use another button or combination of buttons on a non-remote start fob...is this a possibility for the DJ?

My dealer installed an aftermarket starter with a 3000' range and audible feedback, so I have an extra fob slightly larger than a quarter attached to my oem fob...

You may have to slightly roughen the surface, with a fine grit sandpaper, to get the paint to "bite" into the surface of the aluminum, to keep it from chipping. I do not believe that the Crossroad wheels cost $500 ea: $250 seems more reasonable to me.

I used that stuff once trying to "smoke" a chrome appearance strip on my Dakota front bumper. The stuff looked like crap. I prepped the surface appropriately as well. Ended up having to buy another trim piece because it messed it up so bad.

I watched the video on this product and you are NOT supposed to scuff the paint because it is translucent. I definitely would not prep beyond the instructions. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but it won't look like smoked chrome because your wheels are nowhere near as shiny. Maybe buy a cheap wrecked wheel to try it on before going for it on your own ride...

well got back yesterday had a great time.had a bad run of poker results but that's life i guess,the trip round trip was 4450 miles and used 157 gal of gas avg out to 28.34 mpg not bad considering 2 adults and luggage and a 3 wheel scooter tossed in the back got caught in 2 bad hail storms on the way home thought the windows were going to bust out was surprised to find only one small ding on the roof and if you look real hard you can see several other real small ones nothing bad though. while we were in vegas the car was saying only getting about 13mpg with all the stop and go driving and the red light waiting.so with out that tank of gas mpg would have been a lot higher.the traffic out there in vegas was really terrible they drive like idiots and you really have to drive defensively or you will be in an accident for sure. the journey drove great with only one hiccup and that was on the way back it said i was headed n/w and i knew i was going east so i checked the settings and went to the compass and did the relearning thing by driving in a full circle after pushing the button and that fixed it right away had to laugh on that one. almost got 30k on it and only had it about 1yr and 5 months. glad i bought the unlimited yrs and unlimited mile warranty, plan on getting my moneys worth out of it....

Yeah, I am at like 36K on mine right now and bought it in late Feb 2014... Thank God for the unlimited bumper to bumper!! Sounds like you had a good time.