2013R/T

Sick ride!... NM!
the wife wants White on White.... But i like the 19" stockers...

Probably take all day, as COWs are super slow!! But if ya spank em in the behind, theyll move out fast kind like my wife lol jk.

Probably take all day, as COWs are super slow!! But if ya spank em in the behind, theyll move out fast kind like my wife lol jk.

Probably take all day, as COWs are super slow!! But if ya spank em in the behind, theyll move out fast kind like my wife lol jk.

Never thought of that, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Red Green would be envious lol.

You could do that, however, remember, the engine is tuned for a certain air flow into the engine, just by increasing said airflow into the engine will not make a noticable difference as the computer will compensate. You need to make air intake PLUS intake manifold PLUS exhaust modifications to get more air in/more air out, then a custom tune on top of that. Cold air intakes on new cars really don't do much but make a lot of sound.

I like the gold color myself. Looks good!

Not a huge fan of the gold, but I LOVE the anthracite... I am boring and did mine black.

I use the Mother's California Gold 3 step system. Basically, bottle 1 is a cleaner wax, bottle 2 is a sealer and polish, and bottle 3 is pure carnuba wax. It's a fair bit of work since you basically have to wax the car 3 times, but worth it.
Just did it today and this is the result:

Subscribed!!

Subscribed!!

Just about anything would go good with white... I think you're options will be plenty.

They arrived a few days ago, just gotta find a minute to get em in!
Here's a pre-install photo:

Hmmm, look nice and all but dayum thats a lot of bread $$$. Glad the aftermarket for DJ's is growing

Searched high and low to get this figured out as I am sure many have. Here is what we installed on our DJ:
Front 20x9 (+35mm offset) 255/45 20
Rear 20x10 (+50 offest with a 6mm spacer) 285/40 20
We had to use a 6MM spacer to get the clearance in the rear. It does not rub UNLESS you are getting a lot of articulation out of the suspension (pulling in sideways on a steep driveway - the angle of my driveway in the pic is not enough to do it).
We found these wheels for sale in the local classifieds off a 2008 Jeep SRT 8.

Sick ride!... NM!
the wife wants White on White.... But i like the 19" stockers...

Paint them yourself. I've painted many calipers and can have it done in under 2-3 hours. Not down for a whole day.....remove calipers, tape off/mask what you dont want to get paint on, clean, prime, paint. For examplel I just painted the calipers on my Eclipse last Saturday. Painted them body color.

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That is all great, in theory, and that's how things are supposed to work. It's also great for marketing. But in practice, things are not always as they seem.
Did you ever have the plenum off your 3.8 with 200,000+ miles on it? The problem isn't seen on the TB, though a clean butterfly valve may suggest less of an issue.
People put them on their 5.7s because there is so much oil in the vapor that even from regular use, after a couple years there is so much oil build up in the intake manifold that it's hard to believe that somebody didn't just pour a quart of it into there directly. If you Google "hemi oil intake manifold" in Google images, you'll see plenty of examples as to why you need one in a 5.7. It took a few years of use after they started production before these issues were found out. It's around the same amount of time that the 3.6 has now been in use. That being said, I'm curious if we'll start seeing these same types of issues in the 3.6. You won't "see" a problem unless you pull the plenum. Eventually (with the 5.7) the problem becomes more obvious when you start seeing blue smoke on startup, and poor performance due to gummed up valves.
Time will tell on the 3.6. I'm not installing one yet, but I will be watching my oil levels closely. If it's down more than "slightly" between changes, it's throwing it into the intake, which means I'll be installing a catch can.
If you don't plan on keeping your vehicle more than a couple years, it won't matter to you. I'm not planning on changing either of my vehicles (and both have a 3.6) any time in the next 8+ years. If I start seeing oil issues, a catch can is going onto both of them. It could greatly extend the life of the engine.

Just google it. Depends on how much you want to protect your car. It aint cheap.

The first pic here is with the halogens the sdc is a front shot with the hids and then final shot of looking from behind thw passenger door

Unless you are going to have your high beams on for a decent amount of time, installing HIDs in the high beams may not be such a good idea. The constant on-off short cycles will 1-shorten the life of the hid bulb and 2-the bulbs take a few seconds to come up to full brightness. If its cold, you may lose any advantage of having HID because they take so long to brighten up. You might need those few seconds. You might be better served with something else. Just something to think about.

I had 268,000 miles on my 3.8 liter V6 in a 1996 Grand Caravan. No catch can and the throttle body was spotless. If you run the right type of oil, keep it changed and keep your PCV cleaned, the amount of vapor will do nothing to improve the performance or driveability of the modern engine. The amount of fluid in the catch can can look very deceptive; ugh! that is going in my engine. The truth of the matter is that it comes from a mist that, under most circumstances also contains gas blow-by and the mixture is actually flammable and the cooling effect of that mist in the intake system is taken into account in the design of the intake system as a whole. Taking the mist out of the system will provide no increase in performance or savings in fuel mileage to the domestic automobile engine so there has been no "uptake" in catch can installations in the domestic market. Racing yes; soccer mom no.
I have no problem with catch cans... I used to build race cars and they were part and parcel of the "package" for the track. At high rpms, the engines on the track throw out huge amounts of mist and racing engines are expensive...expensive to the point that worn rings (increases blow by) exacerbate the problem and the catch can is a really good way to keep those engines in their best racing form for the longest amount of time between tear downs. I, IMHO, do feel that it is just one more maintenance point that isn't necessary in today's street cars and given the number of people that are going to extended change systems on their oils, it is a maintenance point that is likely to be ignored and if you think sucking oil mist may not be "cool", then imagine the engine that sucks down raw oil from a catch can that's been ignored... A PCV is cheap to produce and easy to clean and just as effective in the domestic street engines.
Again, if you want to run a catch can, by all means do. They are another solution to crankcase vapors and a good one at that. However, in the average lifespan of the domestic automobile engines and the way that they are used and maintained, there is absolutely no reason to have one of those instead of a PCV system in proper repair and a PCV is much easier (it is customary; how many folks, if they bought your 300C would even know what a catch can is, let alone that they had to do anything with it...) for shops to handle. They are all mounted in pretty much the same place and all work the same. A PCV will also let you know it has gone bad by the way the engine behaves, not so a neglected catch can.
When things are "different" or unusual, they cause problems. I had an Austin Healey with dual side draft SU carbs. Those carburetors had oil pans; one in each and each carburetor had a dipstick. Do you know how many people cussed at their British cars and the way they ran when all they needed to do was top up the oil in the carbs? Just an odd ball system that you wouldn't find on any other cars and would never even think about. Even British repair shops overlooked them frequently as the carb (SU) wasn't used on all models in any given year.
If you want one, install one. Make sure you inspect it regularly (at least every oil change) and keep it clean. I'll keep my "inspect or replace PCV every 100,000 miles" system. One less thing to worry about. I've put, literally, hundreds of thousands of miles on engines with the PCV system with no detrimenal impact to the engine or the engine's performance.

I don't know of a lot of people, whether they own a DJ or any other type of car, that bother to install catch cans. They are just one more point of maintenance and would perform little if any advantage to the normally aspirated engines found in most domestic automobiles. Even domestic turbos are not so fast that enough mist is generated or the taking out of the same would provide any hp or torque advantages.
For general information: an oil catch can is used to condense oil mist (vapor) created by rapidly spinning components in high performance engines; turbo driven race cars or normally aspirated race cars that run at high rpms for long periods. Under those conditions, the engines create enough oil mist that if a regular PCV was installed instead, the oil mist would substantially reduce the flash point of the air-fuel mixture in the pistons. A PCV unit, installed in all cars, recycles that "mist" (what little there is in normal use) through the intake system where it is burned with a very negligible impact on ignition. If you vented the vapor hose into atmosphere (against the law), you wouldn't be able to tell the difference aside from adding to air pollution. A catch can condenses it into, you guessed it, a can that must be emptied periodically to get rid of the residue.
That's a simplified explanation, but, unless you are racing your DJ and run at near red-line for hours on end, I find no reason for "most people" to ever even consider one, let alone install one. With today's modern transmissions designed to keep the engine in the <2k rpm range at cruise, a catch can isn't needed.