jkeaton

English please. 

Pretty easy. There may be a plastic cover that hides the nut holding the wiper on the stem. This will pry off easily with a small flat-head screwdriver.
Next, remove the nuts. If the wipers won't pull off, strike the wiper arm directly on the joint. This may take a few good strikes. Use a hammer and a block of wood if need be.
Remove the wiper arms from the stem totally. Try to line up the wiper blade where you think it should be on the windshield and push the wiper arm back down onto the stem. The reason you want to try to position the blade first is because the stem has ribs that the hole of the wiper arm lock into when you press the arm onto the stem. Some windshields will have little black hash marks where the wiper blades should be when not in use.
When you think you have the wipers lined up, tighten the nuts back onto the stem. Spray the windshield with glass cleaner and run the wipers at high speed. Testing the wipers while the windshield is wet ensures that the wipers won't slap the cowl or A pillar, because they actually travel a little further while running fast across a wet windshield. It also reduces the likelihood of scratching the glass.
If everything looks good, ensure the bits are properly tightened and snap the covers back into the base of the wiper arms.

check out YouTube for videos on how to remove and replace a wiper for more great info as well.please report back on your repair and insights for others to learn from

Time to replace the rear license plate.  10 minute job, right?  Ah.... No.
(2014 DJ - plates last replaced 10 years ago-ish.)
 
I was unable to remove the bolts that hold the plate on.  Both fastening devices attached to the tailgate for the bolts just spin, and spin, and spin.
(They are not the plastic square nut type.)
On researching further, this is a common problem across multiple manufacturers.
 
To jump to the middle of the project, below is what the fastening devices look like AFTER the license plate was brutally removed.  They are a type of soft metal, not plastic, internally threaded to accept the bolt.
The license plate bolt corroded inside of these, locked tight, and these would just spin (instead of the bolt coming out).  Temperatures were in the mid 30f's, which probably didn't help.
The (red) body panel these are inserted in is fiberglass (not plastic nor metal).  Multiple attempts to grip these and/or stop them from spinning failed.  I needed to hold these from the backside to get the bolts out.
 
 
 
 
 
After removing the inside tailgate panel,  there is not direct access to them.  I was able to snake my fingers to one of them through an access hole, but not able to grip it with pliers or vise grips.
Luckily the inside panel covering the devices is fiberglass or plastic, is easily identified, and easy to cut with a dremel tool.
Below is picture of the access holes cut.  I then clamped on vise grips and was able to turn the bolts out.  Even then, the bolts did not want to easily release and turn. 
They definitely were corroded in tight.
With the vise grip still on, from the outside I then drilled off the device.
 
 

 
To replace the hardware, now with access to both side, there are options.  Simplest would be to use a standard nut, bolt, & washers.  Granted if/when the license plate would be to be changed again, it would require removing the inside tailgate panel again.  Another option would be to reverse the orientation of the bolt and nut so it becomes a stud.  The license plate would then be fastened on with a nut/acorn nut.  I went with option 3, those rubber expanding gizmo's from the hardware store (below).
The holes had to be enlarged slightly to access these, but again, its a fiberglass panel (easy to drill out).  The hardware store also had the plastic square nuts that snap in place, but I passed on this option as I was unsure about the thickness of the fiberglass and if the plastic nut would securely snap in.
 
 

 
For grins, I gooped on some adhesive caulk I had lying around and bolted up the plate.  The rubber expanded as expected when the bolts were tightened and gripped firmly.
 
 

 
 
When researching solutions, there are several postings in this forum mentioning incorrect license plate screws, screw that fell out, screws that would just pull out, etc...
This explains why.  The PO or used car dealer may have had a similar experience.
 
Merry Christmas!
 
 
 
 

Pretty easy. There may be a plastic cover that hides the nut holding the wiper on the stem. This will pry off easily with a small flat-head screwdriver.
Next, remove the nuts. If the wipers won't pull off, strike the wiper arm directly on the joint. This may take a few good strikes. Use a hammer and a block of wood if need be.
Remove the wiper arms from the stem totally. Try to line up the wiper blade where you think it should be on the windshield and push the wiper arm back down onto the stem. The reason you want to try to position the blade first is because the stem has ribs that the hole of the wiper arm lock into when you press the arm onto the stem. Some windshields will have little black hash marks where the wiper blades should be when not in use.
When you think you have the wipers lined up, tighten the nuts back onto the stem. Spray the windshield with glass cleaner and run the wipers at high speed. Testing the wipers while the windshield is wet ensures that the wipers won't slap the cowl or A pillar, because they actually travel a little further while running fast across a wet windshield. It also reduces the likelihood of scratching the glass.
If everything looks good, ensure the bits are properly tightened and snap the covers back into the base of the wiper arms.

Use a piece of cardboard. 

Stay with OEM copper core plugs. The plug number is located on the under-hood sticker. Change every 30k miles. 

Orileys auto parts,,,,,,,,,,,,,NGK V-Power Nickel Plug Number ZFR5F-11 Spark Plug - 2262
Part #   2262   Line:   NGK 4.7 out of 5 stars. Read reviews for average rating value is 4.7 of 5. Read 16 Reviews Same page link. 4.7   (16) Write a review Ask a question Fits 2014 JourneySee Application Details Change Vehicle
$4.69

this is so true my daughter had a jeep with the 2.4 eng and I always changed her plugs every 30 k and then one time amazon sent me the  iridium plugs instead of the normal OEM ones and I installed them and they were the correct number  plug as well but in less than a week she was saying dad the patriot is hesitating and not acting right, so I remembered about the plugs and went to the local part store and bought another set of the correct ones,installed them  and hey no more problems

This. A lot of people try to run platinum or iridium plugs in the 2.4 and it causes nothing but trouble. 

also only used the oem plugs that are the copper ones they are cheap and easy to change on the 2.4 ,,,about $5, each

Plugs need to be replaced every 30,000 miles on the 2.4. Verify that has been done. All we can do is guess until more information is provided as requested. 

looks like 16 mpg in city and 21 interstate    depends on how you drive not to far off i get around 18- 20 in city and 23=26 interstate   which engine and how it is being driven?  and have you changed the spark plugs? 165 k =103 k in miles 3.6 change at 100 k and 2,4 eng every 30 k also you are due for the transmission service as well

Hey it gets cold here. Just the other morning it was 63° outside lol
Ya there was a mixup and I was banned by accident. I finally got around to asking why and it was discovered I was removed in error. 
Otherwise how you been. Miss anything fun.

You will need to get the battery and charging system checked. 

You will need to get the battery and charging system checked. 

Dodge Journey Cargo Net Clip Trunk Hook OEM FAST SHIPPER PAIR | eBay
 
Welcome to the forum!

Dodge Journey Cargo Net Clip Trunk Hook OEM FAST SHIPPER PAIR | eBay
 
Welcome to the forum!

Dodge Journey Cargo Net Clip Trunk Hook OEM FAST SHIPPER PAIR | eBay
 
Welcome to the forum!

This ^^. Had an older Chrysler Sebring convertible once that kept burning brakes on the left rear. Found the hose had collapsed inside the hose (could not see it, nothing seemed amiss from outside). It was acting as a check valve. Pressure in, but no pressure out. 

This ^^. Had an older Chrysler Sebring convertible once that kept burning brakes on the left rear. Found the hose had collapsed inside the hose (could not see it, nothing seemed amiss from outside). It was acting as a check valve. Pressure in, but no pressure out. 

The rubber brake lines can collapse from the inside on these vehicles and can go unnoticed 

My read says an AWD but thinks only the FWD is working. May be the rear differential/viscous coupling having a major problem. 
AND to the OP if your username is as impes....SEMPER FI to you GRUNT from a long past AIRDALE A-4 Skyhawk powerplant tech!

is it front wheel or all wheel drive? 

Well if you're ever bored and sitting in your warmed up journey, feel free to give it a couple revs and let me know <3 ❤️ lol