JohnnyRevs

Very limited for space on pedestal in fender, might have an inch in all directions.  The AGM batteries charge faster and can sit and hold  full charge much longer.
 
More expensive to buy, but lots of cars like Lexus shipped from factory with them now. I installed one in fatherin laws car that was having battery issues, 2 years ago.  Same size battery physically, but noticeably better performance so far.  Costco sells them.

Important to not just swap fuse if blown. Alternator could have grounded out and taken out fuse. Use meter to test alternator is not grounded out with a multi meter. Not common failure, but possible. Alternator might even smell burnt.

You mentioned mega fuse.  Most cars have a 150 ish amp main fuse right at positive terminal,  or sometimes in main fuse panel. Check it for continuity, not easy to buy fuse.  
 
Battery light coming on meant ecm saw less than 12 volts. If main fuse blew or alternator stopped charging this would occur.
 
Try charging battery for a few hours if not showing 12.3-12.7. Yes small wire on solenoid at starter will only get 12 power when the key is being held in start position. Big wire carrying start power. always has 12 volts.

So, I've had my Journey for about a year. And after much much searching about the factory Bluetooth issues, I've come to the conclusion that Dodge pretty much middle fingered those who buy this awesome car wannabe. It's a great car. Really. A little sluggish off the line sometimes, but overall, a great car. The radio SUCKS! With a capital S! The canbus lighting system SUCKS! Also with a capitol S.  Fine. Being that person who takes things a little too far sometimes....  Here's my fix...  
 
Raspberry Pi 4b - The Brain
Galaxy Note8 - The Android
10.5 inch screen - Replace that horrible 8 incher
Several Arduinos - The operations.
Lots of relays and my own pwm modules
My own onboard hotspot
A lot of my own programming in Python and Bash
 
So pretty much the electronics went in the useless floorboard storage compartment that they advertise could be a cooler. (Has anyone actually tried to use that as a cooler? Another joke).
 
USB cables to Hard Drives with music and video. The Note8 has a cracked screen, but makes a great permanent Android auto piece instead of using my normal daily driver phone. OpenAuto also has screen mirroring, so it works really well for my purposes. Bluetooth to my daily phone. Kicker Key 200.4 amplifier to the factory speakers. Swapped the 8 inch screen for the smaller 4.3 inch screen to maintain A/C controls and settings. Using a Metra kit to interface the factory harness to the 4.3 inch screen. ( Tried at first to just use the 4.3 instead of the 8 inch screen. Didn't quite work out the way I thought it would).
 
Anyways... A lot of work in progress. Added an Invertor for 110 volts. A lot of Neopixel LEDs swapped out like in the gear selector, the cup holders, recessed in the vents. 
 
Soon to follow, replace turn signals with sequence turn signals on both front and rear. (Insert Arduinos and relays). 
 
So far almost a year in the making and lots more to go. I'll keep posting pics and a maybe a final walk through video...
 
 
 
 

You need to take it back to a Dodge dealer.  The plastic shroud over the intake has no real function, but he should have put it back.  What kind dealer just replaces “the computer” without diagnostics?  Exactly what computer did they replace? There are several.  When it broke down a couple miles from the dealer you should have had it taken right back there.  Oh well, shoulda, woulda, coulda.
First bit of advice. The first mechanic does not seem to have an accurate grasp as to what is going on.  Get the engine shroud from him, say thank you for trying, and run away. Next,  Tow the car back to the dealer and pay for an EXACT diagnosis of what is wrong.  Get it in writing. You a either pay them or someone else, but it’s going to take some more $ to get it running.  Could be as simple as a connector left disconnected by the first guy.  Third, if you left the car sitting for 3years and didn’t properly store it (remove/treat fuel system, change oil, etc) you can’t blame the car. Look in the mirror and blame them.  Sorry, but that’s the sad truth...
 
I truly  hope your luck turns around and things get better for you right away!

Start with the easy stuff. If you are getting voltage all over the place i am going to guess bad connection. Get into that wheel well, disconnect everything and inspect the positive/negative cables, connectors, and posts. clean it up real nice and connect up everything nice and snug, including the strap that holds the battery down.

Agreed, but further postings led me to think there was more going on than that and what I had started out with. Spark Plugs are actually EASIER to do than the battery maint on the 2.4 motor, and just as important. Without specific answers to my questions, it's hard to give real help and not just conjecture. 
     I hope people like this don't treat their family doctors with giving health concern/symptoms  info to get good  health treatment in return.
       NOTE: This last statement is not meant directly to the OP.....there are a lot of "members" that post similarly.

You don’t have a forgotten blue tooth obd11 scanner plugged into under dash outlet?
 
For real parasitic load you need to wait a minute or two with doors closed and everything turned off. There is a go to sleep type function that needs to kick in.  I think around 100 milli amps is the most you should see for digital clocks etc on most cars.
 
Glove box and trunk lights are common hidden battery killer. No after market remote starts or dash cams ad ons ? Good luck.
 
 

@cbeja    I know you must be pretty "frazzled" with life and fighting a vehicle problem. But please respond with how things worked out and what was the problem and fix....for the benefit of the many fellow Journey owners here.   

Like the above post's story...Check the engine oil level for overfull reading(coolant in the crankcase). IF OK then refill the res.and see if it drains away or leaks out somewhere. Take off the top motor "dress up" cover to look for leaks on top of the motor. Yes when overheated air doe get entrapped in the cooling system, let it set with cap off for at least 1/2 hr and recheck the res. level  and top off accordingly. You STILL need to find out WHY it overheated and fix that, as I posted of the many possibilities of parts/components that can cause overheating.   Good Luck!

First thing to offer is some other places to check for possibly where the coolant went to find a possible cause of the overheating.
Check the engine oil, both on the dipstick AND on the fill cap. You are looking for brown "milkshake" residues and high (overfull) dipstick reading. Next look inside the coolant reservoir and see if there is red oil in it. These will determine if a major problem in the engine or transmission has happened.
 
You didn't state mileage of the vehicle, and so there are a number of reasons overheating can happen, from minor to major expenses, like a bad rad. cap or thermostat to engine oil cooler failure to blown head gasket or bad radiator. If you are not a DIY'er, Have it TOWED(by FLAT BED due to being an AWD vehicle) to a reputable repair shop for a good diagnosis  and proceed from there.    Good Luck.
   
 

It's been a month since this thread was started with NO response back from the OP. Stated NO code,NO turnover, NO sound. From his picture of the gear position, would lead me to think bad battery or cable connections(ground or positive). I've seen this a few times with Dodge family minivans.

Well, if its turning over, try to narrow down the issue - you need spark, fuel and air.
 
Have u plugged in a diagnostic scan tool?
 
 

If the battery is good, the engine should at least try to start - if the voltage is over 12, it will usually turnover.   If the starter is stuck you could try tapping the solenoid with a hammer - might be enough to free it (worked for me recently).
 
IIRC, there is also a switch on the transmission that tells the ecu that its in Park and ok to start.  
 
Suggestions only I'm afraid as I do not have an auto.
 
Good luck with it.

Great you got it done. Wish we had Journey diesels over here.
 
I think the pricing issue is the double mark up. VW sells part and marks it up, then Dodge resells it and marks it up again.
 
We have car companies here that put their names on Korean cars that have the same parts pricing problem.
Ford has used Yamaha engines on a few occasions, engine parts are almost double if you own one of these vehicles.
Good engines, very pricy parts.

Just completed a big overhaul on my 2010 Dodge Journey CRD SXT with around 120,000 miles on the clock.  I'm posting this thread WRT the injectors & wiring loom in case that it helps someone in a similar position.
 
After replacing the clutch, flywheel and refurbishing the turbo, I got the car back together and up-and-running only to find diesel escaping from the inlet manifold at the front of the engine. 
 
Only place this could come from was the injectors, so I whipped these out and sent them for repair.  I probably could have done this myself - these are Bosch injectors that, as I found out, are generally very durable and all that goes wrong is the failure of the seals.  This cost me only €168 for all 4 injectors and done by a professional here in Dublin, Ireland.  Very reasonable.  Got a quote for new injectors from Fiat-Chrysler of €1300+.
 
On removal of the injectors, I inspected the wiring loom only to discover several cracks in the casing of the wires.  The loom is encased in the top of the engine, under the cam-cover so subject to hot oil sloshing around which degrades it over time.  It made sense to replace this whilst I was there in order to stave off future problems.  On going to FCA for a replacement, I was quoted a staggering €950 + VAT.  Car is only worth around €3K at this stage so I looked for an alternative.  Happily, I found what looked to be the exact same part, albeit with a different part-no, for around €130 incl' VAT & shipping (£112 GBP) !  It was a calculated risk but worth it.  So if you have this issue, check out this part here:- https://www.vag247.com/en_US/p/Injector-wiring-loom-with-glow-plug-connections-2.0-TDI/1133. Note, the VW designation for this engine is BKD.  Fitment is exactly the same.
 
For the record, the original VW part no fitted to my engine is 03G971826A.  The replacement part no is 03G971033L (as shown in the link above).   
 
I could also have sourced this part from Skoda (which is part of VAG) for €154 incl' VAT, so what are FCA playing at with their pricing?
 
I'm happy to report that the car is now back to normal and running very well.  I'm pleased I was able to complete the work at reasonable cost :-)
 
Pic attached showing the top of the engine, injectors in the middle of the pic & loom just below

If the battery is good, the engine should at least try to start - if the voltage is over 12, it will usually turnover.   If the starter is stuck you could try tapping the solenoid with a hammer - might be enough to free it (worked for me recently).
 
IIRC, there is also a switch on the transmission that tells the ecu that its in Park and ok to start.  
 
Suggestions only I'm afraid as I do not have an auto.
 
Good luck with it.

Yeah I'm going to skip on replacing that filter at the moment. It would seem suspicious if they both broke at once but this engine has been extremely neglected. I pulled the valve cover off and it's very scary to see what was underneath. I'm sure that has a part in all these issues.
 
lol, I warned the owner to do maintenance and keep it up to date..

dam.... that looks scary

At that point, it looks like the best bet would be to remove the cylinder head and take it to a machine shop for a thorough cleaning and hot tank it. I don't see any normal everyday stuff removing that gunk.
 
waiting on the intake and exhaust VVT solenoids, will be replacing shortly and then hopefully that check engine will go away but after seeing the condition of the cylinder head I'm not so sure now lol.

great that you can do all that yourself - I had to change a front-top shock mount and bearing - not an especially tough job in itself but my problem was undoing the 18mm nut on the drop links for the sway bar.  It's worth giving these a thorough clean-up and lube before undoing. Also found that a narrow 18mm open-end spanner would have helped (if I had one) to hold the balljoint on the drop-link in place - I wasn't comfortable using the torx bit as I thought it would spin out. It held out for me in the end.  Took me over half-a-day to do this job because of that darned balljoint.
 
Found this video on Youtube to be helpful in outlining the procedure... 
 

First I educated myself with these videos
 
 
 

Then I bought a tool like this

 
After that all went easily :-)

Hi again!
 
I found the 2009-2010 Dodge Journey Service Manual (2.4L - 41TE & 3.5L - MPS6) in this thread:
I downloaded the file Dodge_Journey_2009-2010_1767.rar and in it I found these files:
In the file "frame and bumpers.pdf" I found this instruction:




 
So I seem to need to find the tabs and separate them :-)

Hello all! I am a new Journey owner. I purchased my 2010 Dodge Journey R/T, black in color, about a month ago. I am very happy with the SUV but I would like to upgrade the fron grill to the newer style. Anyone know if the black grill from a 2013 Journey would fit my 2010? I called my local dealer and they could not tell me. Thanks for the assistance!