rolly

So I've got nearly 1000 miles with the new filter and it's holding 24-26 mpg. I'm pretty happy with the results. I just tooknow a 500 mile round trip and got 26 down and 25 back. 500 miles on a single tank.

I just took got back from a marathon trip of 500 miles. The journey got 26 mpg and went 500 miles on a single tank. I don't know about you but I'm impressed.

It still has full coverage ! Then what's the issue... the fact that they have not yet diagnosed the problem themselves ? Then make the time to get it in there and then also submit the the receipts for the previously purchased hoses. Unfortunately your time to change parts yourself was on you but maybe get a receipt from that shop to compensate the use of the shop equipment etc... Most dealers have a ride program that will take you home / work then pick you up again once work is done. Pain in the ass maybe but if your DJ has full coverage no cash out of your pocket only time.  Money is tigh...been there but no working vehicle makes money even tighter.Good Luck.

I have noticed this same thing.  I always try to keep a clean filter in my vehicles.  I have a 91 dakota that not only gets better mileage but idles smoother with a new clean air filter.  I change the filter every 6 months in my DJ.  Still runs like the day I brought it home.  I usually get 19-21 in town.  I live at almost 7000ft elevation so I think a dirty filter affects performance slightly more here.  Not sure.  
 
Peace.

So, I recently picked up this 2016 Journey Crossroads AWD v6 and fairly new to this forum.  I drive on average about 400 miles per week between my commute to work and misc trips in the evening.  My previous SUV was a Chevy Equinox v6 awd.  My mileage in that averaged 23 miles per gallon.  The DJ is rated for 24 mpg I think highway but I was only seeing 20-21mpg driving the same speed, same roads.  I've read the complaints about the DJ before buying and seems like alot of people complain about the mpg not being so go.  I too was seeing this and figured its was par for the coarse.  Still really like driving the DJ so mileage is what the mileage is.  Since the SUV has almost 12k mileage on it, I figured I'd swap out the air filter. I personally like to swap them around 10k or clean them at that point if I have one that can be cleaned. I thought I'd try AEM Dry filter (28-20470) in the DJ and see if it helps/hurts/stays the same.  Over the years, I've used performance filters in almost all my cars and mostly used K&N drop in's but since they're oiled, I've been using dry filters that are cleanable.  I have the AEM dry filter in my SRT and saw really no noticeable difference mileage or performance but peace of mind for me that I can clean it and really never have to buy another one.  I pulled the original filter out, and it was dirty, but true be told, I've seen worse.  I installed the new AEM filter, I fueled up and off to work I go.  Instantly I'm seeing 24 mpg running 73-75mph.  So.. fast forward 3 days of travel and a couple local trips and my average is reporting 23.5 mpg!!! Same speed, same road, same trips.  Obviously I'm going to continue to watch it for a while but first impression shows a solid 1-2 mpg improvement.  
 
I'll keep you posted if anyone cares and report back my findings after a couple weeks and fill ups.

Modern wheel bearings are not terribly difficult to replace (assuming you have the right tools), but you do want to diagnose the issue properly first.
 
The first step is identify that the noise changes with vehicle speed.  You've done that.  The next step is to see if there is a pitch change when turning left or right.  When turning, the outside wheel spins faster and you should be able to notice an increase in pitch or volume.  If a left turn increases the noise, replace the right wheel bearing.  If a right turn increases it, change the left.
 
The replacement itself is fairly straightforward (I don't have torque values, you'll have to research those yourself).  Correct steps (confirmed with factory service manual) are:
Raise and support vehicle Remove wheel from the affected side Disconnect ABS cable from wheel bearing/hub assembly and isolate cable from the steering knuckle (if present and attached to wheel hub) Loosen hub nut from axle shaft (do not completely remove yet) with an impact wrench (alternatively, put the compact spare back on the hub, lower the vehicle back down, and get a breaker bar to break it loose). If you have an impact wrench, have an assistant hold the brake pedal down while you break it loose Remove the brake caliper adapter bracket, brake dust shield, and rotor. Keep them as removed from debris as you can during the rest of the job. Support the caliper from the springs so that it won't fall off or stress the brake hose Bring the axle nut to the end of the threads on the axle shaft and strike it once with a moderate hammer - the goal is to loosen the axle from the splines on the inside of the wheel bearing, not remove it completely; excessive force can cause damage Once the axle shaft is free, remove the (typically) four bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle that are on each corner of the hub/bearing assembly (you may need torx sockets, you might need allen sockets, I don't know specifically - check a proper manual, or take a look at it before removing them and have a spare vehicle to go back and forth to get tools you don't already have Once those bolts are out, the only thing holding the wheel hub/bearing in the steering knuckle is friction and rust.  Get a mallet (preferably rubber) and hit the axle shaft until it backs out of the hub (it won't go all the way, but you'll know when it's loose) , then get a chisel and a hammer and start working the wheel bearing off of the knuckle.  This is the most physically demanding and time consuming part of the job.  Work evenly around the bearing until it comes out.  The goal is to push the wheel hub away from the steering knuckle, so aim for the seam between them, and try not to cut too much of the steering knuckle. Get to work cleaning the corroded material off of the mating surface inside the now much larger hole and on the face of the knuckle (die grinder with a wire wheel, Dremel, whatever works for you - just don't gouge the steering knuckle) Coat the mating surface with a thin layer of anti-seize Install the new hub/bearing into the knuckle and guide the axle shaft into the splines Install the four mounting bolts and torque to spec (35 ft. lbs.) - apply torque in a cross pattern for even pressure Re-install brake rotor, dust shield, and caliper bracket (bracket bolt torque = 125 ft. lbs.) Torque the NEW hub nut to spec (97 ft. lbs.) (again, have an assistant hold the brakes while you tighten it) Re-attach the ABS wires (see previous step - I hope you took photos of everything...) Re-install the wheel and torque lug nuts to spec (100 ft. lbs.) I've done this job on two different vehicles (2005 Chevy Cavalier, 2010 Chrysler Town and Country).  It's about a 1 1/2 to 2 hour job if you have all the parts and tools on hand.  You can rent axle nut sockets from Advance Auto or AutoZone (whatever is convenient to you).  All other tools are nothing special.  You can source parts from Amazon for anywhere from $40 - $200.
 
Edit: Added a few steps and found the torque specs for the parts that get removed.
 
The wheel speed sensor attaches to the steering knuckle.  It may be a safe plan to remove it while doing the rest of the work (it's a small hex head bolt, probably about 10mm), but my resource is not showing me that removal is necessary.

It also depends on which finger you use!

My 2013 Journey has 80,00 kilometres (50,000 miles) and virtually trouble free. Had the radio replaced once and only replaced the tires in that time. I bought the extended warranty for the reasons that others have stated. I make sure to do the regular maintenance- oil changes, tire rotations and alignments as required. It's the best vehicle I've ever owned and we are a 3 Journey family with similar experience.

He has a CVP with manual seats and the new ones are power (he didn't say whether the passenger one is or not).  Are the connectors the same?  Is there power for the seats (and what of power heat) - because he has the base model the harness might be different.

No matter what, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILE DOING THE WORK.

my 2011 journey had about 70k and no real problems traded for my 2014 crossroad and i bought the max lifetime miles and yrs (if i had bought it on my 2011 would have kept it) about 53 k on this one and had to use the extended warranty at about 45k for the oil sensor going bad while on vacation only cost me 100. for the deductible and just put on new tires ( 19 inch) at about 47k, love it and plan on driving the wheels off it hench the warranty.....

Your dealer is just trying to get your service money.  Your 5/60 warranty is good as long as you have receipts for regular maintenance items (oil changes, etc) and you do the required items when they are due.

My 2013 Crew has almost 80000 miles and aside from the Nav being replaced numerous times nothing else except the battery was dead this morning so a replacement is in order

Our 2013 Journey Crew has been very reliable for us. Like many others, we had to have the radio replaced. The unit functioned perfectly fine other than a corrupted navigation map which required the replacement of the radio to correct. We have 67,000 miles on the car and that is really the only problem we've had with it. No warning lights, no ominous noises, and it runs smooth and straight.
 
It is worth noting that this car was in a major collision at 30,000 miles which required the nose of the car to be replaced and some welding of the driver's side frame rail (yes it's unit body but it's the structural component to which the engine and some of the suspension it bolted to). Even with that kind of damage, the car came back to us in perfectly good working order, and we've more than doubled the mileage on it since that work was done with no issues.
 
I am a dealer service manager, and I still purchased a Mopar Maximum Care lifetime service contract despite the fact that I receive discounted parts as a dealer employee. Some of these components are very expensive as was mentioned in an earlier thread - like the aforementioned radio - and you can recover the cost of your contract in as little as one major repair. Plus, if anything should happen to me, all my wife has to do is pay a $100.00 deductible on any covered repair (and Maximum Care excludes very few items) for as long as she owns the car.
 
We've had very good experiences with our Chryslers. My daily driver is a 2000 300M with 309,800 miles, my 18 year old son drives a 1999 300M with 142,000 miles. Both run perfectly with no warning lights or odd noises. The Journey has been fine so far as I said. You do NOT have to purchase your service contract from your selling dealer. You are free to shop around as bramfrank suggested. Your dealer told you what they did in an attempt to keep your business in-house. A Mopar Vehicle Protection Plan is good at ANY FCA dealership.

My 2013 Journey has 80,00 kilometres (50,000 miles) and virtually trouble free. Had the radio replaced once and only replaced the tires in that time. I bought the extended warranty for the reasons that others have stated. I make sure to do the regular maintenance- oil changes, tire rotations and alignments as required. It's the best vehicle I've ever owned and we are a 3 Journey family with similar experience.

Start off by looking up the Magnuson Moss warranty act and then find an honest dealer.

The Journey (in fact every modern vehicle) is filled with expensive electronics and dealers are by and large poor diagnosticians, so if you plan to hang on to the vehicle it is more than possible you'll make money with an extended warranty, especially if you can score one at a discount - and that means shopping  . . . . also noting that if you buy online from out of state you will save any sales taxes that may have otherwise been applicable.

Buy or extended warranty from an online FCA vendor and ONLY buy the OEM one - they are available in different durations and to cover different total mileage - and both without deductibles and with a deductible that applies per claim.  Price-wise the trick is to solicit a quote from one of the online dealers and then follow through - they'll send you a follow-up every so often and you'll save a further couple of hundred dollars.  Note that depending on the age and mileage of your vehicle when you buy te plan Chrysler may require a inspection and the cost could be higher . . . . . .

Love my 2013. Approaching 60,000 miles. Only thing we've had done is front struts replaced under warranty and new tires. Still on original brakes. No problems. 

I have a 2011 and it has been a solid vehicle.  It is not my daily driver so I cannot comment on the daily grind sorts of wear and tear, but it still runs like the day I brought it home with 60,000+ miles on it.  I think one simple rule to avoiding a lot of problems is to let the DJ idle down to below 1000rpm before shifting or driving.  It takes 20-30 seconds.  Definitely get the extended warranty to cover any problems, especially electronics.  
 
Peace.

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Dodge-Journey-Key-Fob-Battery-Replacement-Guide/

I have to agree with larryl. I have the factory GPS and I would not to do it again as it costs extra for the updates. I bought my son a Garmin with life time updates for less than $200.00 Canadian.

Welcome!

There is a small 'emergency' access panel on the inside of the liftgate trim, at the bottom center below the light. Pry it open with a small flat screwdriver. Inside is what looks like a large plastic screwhead that can be turned with a phillips or large flathead screwdriver to open the hatch.
 

 

I could get +20 mpg if I drove like an old lady everywhere I went. I love those people who are so worried about their mpg they hold up traffic, do exactly the speed limit (or under) in the left lane, and just putt along oblivious to everything around them.  I really DONT CARE what my mpg is.  I go from place to place, moving with traffic,not holding anyone else or myself up.  I have a V6 for a reason.  When I step on the gas i wanna MOVE, not putt along taking 3 city blocks to hit 30 mph. I dont lead foot it everywhere, my tires dont squeel and I get 16-18 mpg.  I dont expect more nor do I care if I get less.  I use my remote start both in summer (ac) and winter (heat). Sometimes I get 13 mpg!  So what.  It doesn't mean I drive like an ass.  Haven't gotten pulled over or a Ticket in over 15 years so I would say I drive average.  I understand where gwin99 is coming from and enjoyed his posts, but there is ALWAYS going to be somebody who knows better.  GWIN99 continue to post your updates.
 
Just my 2 cents.....

Thank you Ray!! Same to you and yours. Getting ready to head to NY in a few days. Last time we went, got hit by a major snow storm. Hoping to avoid that this year!!  

Have a great, and safe trip, to and fro!  
 

Safe travels to all!  Happy Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas!