Josh Feller Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 I'm new to this site but I have a 2010 journey sxt awd 3.5 v6 and when I increase speed I'm getting a weird noise coming from the front that gets louder the faster I go and even at take on I get a lower deeper sound coming from the car? Any ideas would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 By your info sounds like it could be a wheel bearing OhareFred 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty256 Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 wheel bearings OhareFred 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Feller Posted January 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Are they hard to replace yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 never had to replace on my journey but did replace 1 on my daughters 2007 caravan pretty easy check out u tube for videos on it they will be your best bet on info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 1 hour ago, Josh Feller said: Are they hard to replace yourself? That all depends on your skill level and tool selection. It's a matter of unbolting stuff and bolting things back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 my daughters caravan also had a bearing on her alternator go bad it made a loud whine that got louder the faster you went, i forget the name of that bearing i believe that has been posted here check out u tube for info jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfurth Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) Modern wheel bearings are not terribly difficult to replace (assuming you have the right tools), but you do want to diagnose the issue properly first. The first step is identify that the noise changes with vehicle speed. You've done that. The next step is to see if there is a pitch change when turning left or right. When turning, the outside wheel spins faster and you should be able to notice an increase in pitch or volume. If a left turn increases the noise, replace the right wheel bearing. If a right turn increases it, change the left. The replacement itself is fairly straightforward (I don't have torque values, you'll have to research those yourself). Correct steps (confirmed with factory service manual) are: Raise and support vehicle Remove wheel from the affected side Disconnect ABS cable from wheel bearing/hub assembly and isolate cable from the steering knuckle (if present and attached to wheel hub) Loosen hub nut from axle shaft (do not completely remove yet) with an impact wrench (alternatively, put the compact spare back on the hub, lower the vehicle back down, and get a breaker bar to break it loose). If you have an impact wrench, have an assistant hold the brake pedal down while you break it loose Remove the brake caliper adapter bracket, brake dust shield, and rotor. Keep them as removed from debris as you can during the rest of the job. Support the caliper from the springs so that it won't fall off or stress the brake hose Bring the axle nut to the end of the threads on the axle shaft and strike it once with a moderate hammer - the goal is to loosen the axle from the splines on the inside of the wheel bearing, not remove it completely; excessive force can cause damage Once the axle shaft is free, remove the (typically) four bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle that are on each corner of the hub/bearing assembly (you may need torx sockets, you might need allen sockets, I don't know specifically - check a proper manual, or take a look at it before removing them and have a spare vehicle to go back and forth to get tools you don't already have Once those bolts are out, the only thing holding the wheel hub/bearing in the steering knuckle is friction and rust. Get a mallet (preferably rubber) and hit the axle shaft until it backs out of the hub (it won't go all the way, but you'll know when it's loose) , then get a chisel and a hammer and start working the wheel bearing off of the knuckle. This is the most physically demanding and time consuming part of the job. Work evenly around the bearing until it comes out. The goal is to push the wheel hub away from the steering knuckle, so aim for the seam between them, and try not to cut too much of the steering knuckle. Get to work cleaning the corroded material off of the mating surface inside the now much larger hole and on the face of the knuckle (die grinder with a wire wheel, Dremel, whatever works for you - just don't gouge the steering knuckle) Coat the mating surface with a thin layer of anti-seize Install the new hub/bearing into the knuckle and guide the axle shaft into the splines Install the four mounting bolts and torque to spec (35 ft. lbs.) - apply torque in a cross pattern for even pressure Re-install brake rotor, dust shield, and caliper bracket (bracket bolt torque = 125 ft. lbs.) Torque the NEW hub nut to spec (97 ft. lbs.) (again, have an assistant hold the brakes while you tighten it) Re-attach the ABS wires (see previous step - I hope you took photos of everything...) Re-install the wheel and torque lug nuts to spec (100 ft. lbs.) I've done this job on two different vehicles (2005 Chevy Cavalier, 2010 Chrysler Town and Country). It's about a 1 1/2 to 2 hour job if you have all the parts and tools on hand. You can rent axle nut sockets from Advance Auto or AutoZone (whatever is convenient to you). All other tools are nothing special. You can source parts from Amazon for anywhere from $40 - $200. Edit: Added a few steps and found the torque specs for the parts that get removed. The wheel speed sensor attaches to the steering knuckle. It may be a safe plan to remove it while doing the rest of the work (it's a small hex head bolt, probably about 10mm), but my resource is not showing me that removal is necessary. Edited February 1, 2017 by bfurth Additional information BlindSquirrel, rolly and jkeaton 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfurth Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 On 1/30/2017 at 8:33 PM, 2late4u said: my daughters caravan also had a bearing on her alternator go bad it made a loud whine that got louder the faster you went, i forget the name of that bearing i believe that has been posted here check out u tube for info That sound would change with engine speed, not vehicle speed. If the noise gets louder only with vehicle speed, it's most likely a wheel hub/bearing assembly. I just replaced the front passenger one in my T&C back in November. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecrazyfoo4u Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Great advice and steps from bfurth. The only thing I would change is replace the bearings in pairs. Depending on age and vehicle mileage, if one is going, might as well do the other side while you're at it. My 2012 has 115k miles and my bearings are definitely going bad. The make the winding noise as I drive faster...and get louder when I turn either direction at slow speeds. Another check is to raise your front end of the ground and do a wiggle test with the tires still on. See if there's any play side-to-side or up and down. There shouldn't be any play with good bearings. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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