Journey_SeXT

Unless the oil has been in their for over a year 2500 miles is way too soon to change the oil especially if a synthetic was used. I would either reset or just go by mileage which is what I do but never pass the maximum allowed in the owners manual as you are under warranty.

I would start with a brake inspection before just going out and buying all new parts.

I know the brakes on these 2011's are not the greatest but warping within 3,000 miles is not a braking issue but a driver issue. You must be braking at high speeds for that warping to happen.

Save all your oil and filter receipts and keep track of what mileage you changed your oil at because if something does happen and you cannot prove that regular maintenance was performed on the vehicle your warranty will be void.

Welcome to the forum! If you want advice about how to fix your car, remember that you are the eyes and ears of your helpers. So, you need to be a good witness.

Here are some do’s and don’ts

Do record the year, transmission type, mileage and engine size of your vehicle, and any pertinent history of repairs.

Do provide as many details as you can about the problem.

Don’t ask, “does anybody know how to fix a Dodge?” don’t ask, “how do you fix brakes?” And most certainly don't put a vague 2 or 3 word sentence and expect to get any sort of meaningful responses. Vague questions/statements like that are a red flag that the person has no clue about auto repair, so don’t be surprised if you get simple and/or sarcastic answers back. If you show some evidence of your skill set, then those offering advice can better adjust the explanation to your knowledge level. And, there is less risk of walking somebody down a repair pathway that puts them in danger of causing more problems.

Don’t just say “ my car won’t start”. You need to be a better observer. Here’s an example.

I have a 2010 automatic transmission 3.5L with 50,000 miles that won’t start today. It’s never had any serious repair and it’s had no major maintenance before. Last night while I was driving the engine suddenly quit, so I coasted to a stop on the road, a block from my house. Dash lights and headlights stayed on until I turned the key off. That night I couldn’t restart it, so I walked home. This morning I stepped into the truck and I turned the key to on. Just after I turn the key to on, I hear the fuel pump motor come on for a couple of seconds. The lights on the dash come on, the headlights work normally. The fuel gauge reads 3/4 full. When I turn the key to start I hear the starter motor engage, and I hear and feel the crankshaft spin. I can see the serpentine belt moving when I try to start the vehicle. But it spins the motor at a faster than normal speed, with an unusually smooth whirring sound and no evidence of ignition.

The above history, presented in the kind of smooth and logical way that a mechanic would normally approach the problem, rings familiar bells and makes it much easier for others to help.

Unless you’re sure, don’t start the description with your diagnosis. For example, don’t start with the question “ how do I replace a thermostat” Rather, give the problem, the evidence, and only then discuss why you think you need a new thermostat. You might find that the white smoke out your exhaust that you didn’t mention is also related to the overheating radiator.

Do provide as many clues as you can. for example if the problem only happens in damp or cold weather, mention it.

Do consider making a video of the problem. Posting video on Youtube is free, easy, and fun. A short video of your problem can make a huge difference as to how much you’ll get out of your effort. And you’ll likely meet a lot of interesting friends along the way.

Finally, one more thing. Remember to keep your thread active, right to the point that the problem is solved and answered. Everybody who helps out on this forum wants to see how things ended up. If you ask a question on this forum, you owe those who try to help the courtesy of telling them what the solution was, even if you eventually had it fixed by a pro.

Good Luck!

LMAO! Really, wow I need to do a lot of research with all that information you gave! Can you check back in a year?

Lol, you think he's going to read all that jkeaton? He can barely post four words total!
On the flip side, can you make a requirement to read a post similar to yours before anyone new can post on the forum? That would be a way to force all the one post wonders to read something before being able to post their ridiculous rants or useless posts.

Sell it

That is still pretty sad mileage for brakes. I put on Callahan set from amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Callahan-Premium-Ceramic-Brake-CK002564/dp/B00E1SNKB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428339837&sr=8-1&keywords=dodge+journey+brakes), like several others on here have. It's been almost 2 years and 50k miles later. Just checked them and the pads are all probably half way worn. So you can count these as 100k mile brakes hopefully! No noticeable lip on the rotor edge. Been more than pleased with the set, no warping, no screeching. Nice, quiet brakes that wear nice and slow. I would highly recommend them!
Plus it's hard to beat the price at under $200 for all 4 corners!

Willy Wonka! Derp!

Have you started using fully synthetic power steering fluid?
Some owners that have similar winter temps state this resolved the blown hose problem.

The 3.6 has an inherent moaning-type sound upon cold start. Mine is particularly loud. My experience has been that the sound is louder in transverse applications like the Journey and the minivans. The Grand Cherokee, Durango and 300/Charger have a longitudinal engine orientation, and for some reason the moan is not as loud in those cars. It is not the same sound as the idler pulley in the TSB. That is a high-pitched screech or whistle-type sound which usually only lasts a few seconds; maybe more in extreme cold. Also, in extreme cold startups, the power steering pump does make a short-duration sound, similar to a low-fluid condition. The manual states that this sound is normal due to the high viscosity of the fluid at low temps. The moaning sound that I describe lasts a couple of minutes, then it is gone once the engine begins to warm up. I have been monitoring STAR cases and TSB's to identify the source but none have surfaced yet. Apparently it is not a mechanical issue since everything still works perfectly on my engine with 34,000 miles now. It has not gotten any worse, either.

Double post.

Here is the PDF file:
idler pulley noise.pdf

Would the idler pulley be part of the powertrain warranty? I do also have the extended warranty. I would like to get this done but I am not paying out of pocket for it.

Here is the PDF file:
idler pulley noise.pdf

Yes, that's what I noticed too RTM. The 3.6L for me has been impressive and what sold me on the Journey.

Hey, I don't mind how the new Cherokee's look. If the Journey goes that route for design I'd definitely be looking to upgrade. Unfortunately, compared to other vehicles in the same class I think our Journey's are starting to become a little dated & tiresome in design. Pretty much all others car makes have refreshed their vehicle designs like the Ford Escape, Hyundai Santa Fe, etc....sad to say but a change may be good.

264,082.8 miles...

425,000 kms...whats that, like 90,000 miles???

My 2000 Chrysler 300M hit a milestone yesterday:

If my Journey doesn't keep getting smashed every other week, it too might just make it to 300K!

Yes, that's what I noticed too RTM. The 3.6L for me has been impressive and what sold me on the Journey.

If I had someone like Journeyman425 at my dealership I'd get my DJ serviced their regularly and probably be a lifer at that dealership. Unfortunately, the 3 dealerships I've gone to I can't seem to bond with any of them so I do the maintenance work at home. At least I have a good relationship with the parts guys!

Is this suppose to be a white Journey in a snowstorm in the north pole pic?
Welcome to the forum Weav!!

Is this suppose to be a white Journey in a snowstorm in the north pole pic?
Welcome to the forum Weav!!