bramfrank

I have no clue what the point of your meme is.

You said you were looking to save money, yet were willing to spend what seemed to be $900 for a backup camera - the 2 concepts are pretty much mutually exclusive.  It isn't as if a backup camera is a necessity of life.

Dealers suck.  Yours seems to suck more than many.

Yes, you can add the OEM backup camera if you have the 8.4" screen.  Of course you can also add aftermarket ones of you find the OEM one to be too expensive.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

And just how do you get it to the dealer, since the new radio module needs to be learned in before it can be started.

I believe this is a dealer-install item at best.

And just how do you get it to the dealer, since the new radio module needs to be learned in before it can be started.

I believe this is a dealer-install item at best.

And just how do you get it to the dealer, since the new radio module needs to be learned in before it can be started.

I believe this is a dealer-install item at best.

IMO, if you are looking to conserve money then spending anything for a backup camera flies in the face of the concept.

One as nothing to do with the other.

Here charges whatever they want, but the manufacturers may, or may not be included in whatever sale there may be.

And the update for your radio is not the same as that for a GM product, for example, so there is no competition.

Either pay the price, learn how to do it yourself or simply live with old maps.

Hopefully you took the advice and called AAA or some other tow service and had the vehicle moved to your buddy's driveway.

AWD vehicles DO have a badge on the rear, so unless the vehicle's been repainted it is likely that it does not have the feature.  I hope your paperwork specifies AWD, because there is a premium associated with it.

If it does, then be aware that tires are changed in sets of four if you don't want to blow up the AWD.  Read your owner's manual.

That warranty is based on doing the minimum manufacturer's maintenance . . . . . if the belt skipped, causing damage and you can't prove a belt change they would almost certainly deny coverage.

Well, I won't use the dealer closest to me because they blew up the engine in my old LHS and tried to stick me with the bill - small claims court resolved that one . . . then there's the fact that they wanted $3K more than the dealer I have been using since I got my '11 when I purchased the present Crossroad - and they bravely tried to justify the price difference because 'we're the largest Chrysler dealer in Canada'.

Yeah, right.

So I purchased both of the DJs I've owned from this other dealer, and I live outside that dealer's local shuttle area, so it is always a question of going in and waiting, because they won't give me a loaner for a day job (which I understand) and they won't take me where I need to go.  The terms of my 7/115/zero deductible bumper to bumper extended factory warranty are that I get a loaner if the car needs to stay overnight - but they actually argue about that by saying they'll rent me a car on day two . . . .

Guys, why do I need to phone the customer support line to explain your business to you each and every time?

Last December, when my vehicle was approaching the 36 month point they tried to tell me to have certain work performed as it would 'no longer be covered by FCA'.  They explained that diagnostics and computer updates were no longer covered, so they wanted me to pay them for a once-over for my vehicle.  At the time I declined and phoned FCA Customer Service who told me that it was indeed covered, as long as any flashing wasn't frivolous and the problems they were diagnosing were for covered components.

And, yesterday the dealer did it again!!

My check engine light came on last week-end.  Solid on, so not all that serious, it seemed to me that the oil pressure gauge was way too high and I figured that the sender had gone again . . . but I've had this once before and the problem self-resolved.

Now, my dealer has a 'quick service' bay and I found myself driving by their place last Monday so I went in.  They wouldn't even pull the codes.  Not even if I waited however long. They DID give me an appointment for yesterday afternoon for which I showed up on time and with a laptop so I could work while they determined and repaired the fault as well as executing the cruise control recall.  I figured I'd be there for about 2 ad a half hours with the pressure sender change, so I settled in and started writing e-mails.

After about 90 minutes the service advisor came to tell me the vehicle was ready, so I went to collect my keys and they presented me with a bill for a half hour ($70 plus tax) of work.

I asked what this was for and they tried to tell me that the diagnostic and the repair (which apparently involved reflashing a module, presumably not the same one that was involved in the recall) were chargeable.

Really?  It sure doesn't say anything about paying for software updates, which are issued to correct issues in the previous versions, nor does it say I pay for diagnostics;  In act it says it extends the bumper to bumper factory warranty with certain exclusions (consumables, which are ALWAYS excluded and trim and paint).

I pointed out that if the vehicle turned on the check engine light that it either determined that there was a fault beyond any consumables or that the diagnostic system itself was defective, both of which are indeed covered by the warranty.  I told them to cancel the charge at which point they said they would 'remove the update' and that 'the check engine light will come back on'.

I told them to go ahead, because;
1. You cant roll back an update, as far as I know and
2. even if you can, I could take the vehicle to any other dealer and have the update re-applied

Need I say that the light is off?

I also pointed out that moving forward they'd not be selling me a 3rd vehicle nor performing any further service on the one I own now.

On the way home I called Customer Service who reconfirmed that diagnostics (when they determine a covered fault) and reflashing were indeed covered by my warranty and that the only time I'd be expected to pay is when they are dealing with non-covered items (brakes fluids, bulbs, wipers, tires and so on plus trim and paint).  They also referenced my call from last December, where I asked the same questions.

hey DID call the dealer; I wish I could have heard what was discussed; and when they came back said tat the dealer reported that he hadn't charged me anything, which is true, but the work order states that I refused the diagnostic service ad does not say what was wrong nor what they did to fix it.  I asked if I should bring the unit to another dealer and her answer was a very reasonable 'if the Check Engine Light' is off then they must have resolved the problem and so, not to bother.

The moral is simple;  Most dealers suck and they try to rip people off and upsell unnecessary services.  Know your rights and stand up for them.  They probably make a killing from uninformed clients.

Don't be among the suckers.
 

Well, I won't use the dealer closest to me because they blew up the engine in my old LHS and tried to stick me with the bill - small claims court resolved that one . . . then there's the fact that they wanted $3K more than the dealer I have been using since I got my '11 when I purchased the present Crossroad - and they bravely tried to justify the price difference because 'we're the largest Chrysler dealer in Canada'.

Yeah, right.

So I purchased both of the DJs I've owned from this other dealer, and I live outside that dealer's local shuttle area, so it is always a question of going in and waiting, because they won't give me a loaner for a day job (which I understand) and they won't take me where I need to go.  The terms of my 7/115/zero deductible bumper to bumper extended factory warranty are that I get a loaner if the car needs to stay overnight - but they actually argue about that by saying they'll rent me a car on day two . . . .

Guys, why do I need to phone the customer support line to explain your business to you each and every time?

Last December, when my vehicle was approaching the 36 month point they tried to tell me to have certain work performed as it would 'no longer be covered by FCA'.  They explained that diagnostics and computer updates were no longer covered, so they wanted me to pay them for a once-over for my vehicle.  At the time I declined and phoned FCA Customer Service who told me that it was indeed covered, as long as any flashing wasn't frivolous and the problems they were diagnosing were for covered components.

And, yesterday the dealer did it again!!

My check engine light came on last week-end.  Solid on, so not all that serious, it seemed to me that the oil pressure gauge was way too high and I figured that the sender had gone again . . . but I've had this once before and the problem self-resolved.

Now, my dealer has a 'quick service' bay and I found myself driving by their place last Monday so I went in.  They wouldn't even pull the codes.  Not even if I waited however long. They DID give me an appointment for yesterday afternoon for which I showed up on time and with a laptop so I could work while they determined and repaired the fault as well as executing the cruise control recall.  I figured I'd be there for about 2 ad a half hours with the pressure sender change, so I settled in and started writing e-mails.

After about 90 minutes the service advisor came to tell me the vehicle was ready, so I went to collect my keys and they presented me with a bill for a half hour ($70 plus tax) of work.

I asked what this was for and they tried to tell me that the diagnostic and the repair (which apparently involved reflashing a module, presumably not the same one that was involved in the recall) were chargeable.

Really?  It sure doesn't say anything about paying for software updates, which are issued to correct issues in the previous versions, nor does it say I pay for diagnostics;  In act it says it extends the bumper to bumper factory warranty with certain exclusions (consumables, which are ALWAYS excluded and trim and paint).

I pointed out that if the vehicle turned on the check engine light that it either determined that there was a fault beyond any consumables or that the diagnostic system itself was defective, both of which are indeed covered by the warranty.  I told them to cancel the charge at which point they said they would 'remove the update' and that 'the check engine light will come back on'.

I told them to go ahead, because;
1. You cant roll back an update, as far as I know and
2. even if you can, I could take the vehicle to any other dealer and have the update re-applied

Need I say that the light is off?

I also pointed out that moving forward they'd not be selling me a 3rd vehicle nor performing any further service on the one I own now.

On the way home I called Customer Service who reconfirmed that diagnostics (when they determine a covered fault) and reflashing were indeed covered by my warranty and that the only time I'd be expected to pay is when they are dealing with non-covered items (brakes fluids, bulbs, wipers, tires and so on plus trim and paint).  They also referenced my call from last December, where I asked the same questions.

hey DID call the dealer; I wish I could have heard what was discussed; and when they came back said tat the dealer reported that he hadn't charged me anything, which is true, but the work order states that I refused the diagnostic service ad does not say what was wrong nor what they did to fix it.  I asked if I should bring the unit to another dealer and her answer was a very reasonable 'if the Check Engine Light' is off then they must have resolved the problem and so, not to bother.

The moral is simple;  Most dealers suck and they try to rip people off and upsell unnecessary services.  Know your rights and stand up for them.  They probably make a killing from uninformed clients.

Don't be among the suckers.
 

An observation: The fact that you swapped the coil packs and the problem didn't follow the coils implies that the issue lies elsewhere - possibly some corrosion on the connectors at one end or the other of the wires connected to the coils or something in the ECU.

An observation: The fact that you swapped the coil packs and the problem didn't follow the coils implies that the issue lies elsewhere - possibly some corrosion on the connectors at one end or the other of the wires connected to the coils or something in the ECU.

You can't just wire up a pushbutton because it isn't a straight wire to the ECU that controls the cruise.  You will need to replace the clockspring.

You can't just wire up a pushbutton because it isn't a straight wire to the ECU that controls the cruise.  You will need to replace the clockspring.

Well, if that image with the blank ID has't been retouched, your first clue would have been the missing serial number.

If cycling power hadn't brought it back a replacement radio would have been the next step.

I did not renew my subscription when the traffic (which we don't normally get in Canada, but which I talked them into turning on) was shut down - now I use Waze and with 5,000 songs in the ipod in my armrest, miss nothing.

Well, if you read what the thread has to say you will discover that it apparently covers vehicles up to some point past the start of the 2013 model year and that if yours was newer that that you could probably make a case (if not to FCA, then to a small claims court judge) that it be covered.

Why you would park a vehicle without getting a diagnosis is beyond me, but assuming you can even start the vehicle after leaving it sit for 6 months, and assuming that the code hasn't cleared from the ECU because you let the battery go flat, the first thing to do is to read the code.

See what Redtomatoman wrote above and then do it.  you can read the code yourself, you can ask a garage or a buddy with a reader to extract the code or, you can go to the dealer and pay them a few bucks for the diagnostic.

Once you've determined that it is the appropriate code or not you can make a decision as to what the next step is;  At the very least you are likely going to have to buy a new battery and replace a bunch of fluids if you plan to put the vehicle back on the road.

Well, if you read what the thread has to say you will discover that it apparently covers vehicles up to some point past the start of the 2013 model year and that if yours was newer that that you could probably make a case (if not to FCA, then to a small claims court judge) that it be covered.

Why you would park a vehicle without getting a diagnosis is beyond me, but assuming you can even start the vehicle after leaving it sit for 6 months, and assuming that the code hasn't cleared from the ECU because you let the battery go flat, the first thing to do is to read the code.

See what Redtomatoman wrote above and then do it.  you can read the code yourself, you can ask a garage or a buddy with a reader to extract the code or, you can go to the dealer and pay them a few bucks for the diagnostic.

Once you've determined that it is the appropriate code or not you can make a decision as to what the next step is;  At the very least you are likely going to have to buy a new battery and replace a bunch of fluids if you plan to put the vehicle back on the road.

Well, if you read what the thread has to say you will discover that it apparently covers vehicles up to some point past the start of the 2013 model year and that if yours was newer that that you could probably make a case (if not to FCA, then to a small claims court judge) that it be covered.

Why you would park a vehicle without getting a diagnosis is beyond me, but assuming you can even start the vehicle after leaving it sit for 6 months, and assuming that the code hasn't cleared from the ECU because you let the battery go flat, the first thing to do is to read the code.

See what Redtomatoman wrote above and then do it.  you can read the code yourself, you can ask a garage or a buddy with a reader to extract the code or, you can go to the dealer and pay them a few bucks for the diagnostic.

Once you've determined that it is the appropriate code or not you can make a decision as to what the next step is;  At the very least you are likely going to have to buy a new battery and replace a bunch of fluids if you plan to put the vehicle back on the road.

Well, if you read what the thread has to say you will discover that it apparently covers vehicles up to some point past the start of the 2013 model year and that if yours was newer that that you could probably make a case (if not to FCA, then to a small claims court judge) that it be covered.

Why you would park a vehicle without getting a diagnosis is beyond me, but assuming you can even start the vehicle after leaving it sit for 6 months, and assuming that the code hasn't cleared from the ECU because you let the battery go flat, the first thing to do is to read the code.

See what Redtomatoman wrote above and then do it.  you can read the code yourself, you can ask a garage or a buddy with a reader to extract the code or, you can go to the dealer and pay them a few bucks for the diagnostic.

Once you've determined that it is the appropriate code or not you can make a decision as to what the next step is;  At the very least you are likely going to have to buy a new battery and replace a bunch of fluids if you plan to put the vehicle back on the road.

Check eBay - apparently the 2010 ad earlier models use a different part . . . . I see at least one claiming to be for your year:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=dodge+journey+cargo+cover&_sacat=0

This is the Metra kit:
 
https://www.carid.com/2014-dodge-journey-stereo-installation/metra-single-double-din-stereo-dash-kit-904990647.html
 
It provides a revised mechanical control panel and provides a cable harness for an aftermarket stereo - apparently it is intended for units with the 4.3" display..

Be careful with that;  The warranty starts with the 'in service' date, which may differ from that of the first registration.  My nephew just learned the hard way, when he had an expensive failure on his DJ, which was purchased used which he was expecting to be covered by the warranty, but it seems that the in-service date was 6 months earlier than the date of the first sale to the original owner.

To know for certain, contact FCA and ask.

Be careful with that;  The warranty starts with the 'in service' date, which may differ from that of the first registration.  My nephew just learned the hard way, when he had an expensive failure on his DJ, which was purchased used which he was expecting to be covered by the warranty, but it seems that the in-service date was 6 months earlier than the date of the first sale to the original owner.

To know for certain, contact FCA and ask.