bramfrank

Actually, I think you should use 235/45/20 - which is narrower still, though is still a half inch wider than the factory tire and is 1.4% lower profile . . . .

Increasing the tire pressure will firm up the sidewalls and reduce the amount of bulge which might help with the shredding if indeed the tires are hitting the suspension . . . . but if it helps, it highlights the fact that your present tires are too wide for the vehicle.

If you continue to have problems and if you sill want it I can make it available to you via dropbox, just let me know

Well, the fact that you have a personal connection with the garage GREATLY improves the odds that you'll be treated properly.

I hope the repair goes well.

Good luck

They do market it a lot up here - and obviously I'm hooked, since I'm on my second one . . . . . one of THE values in the marketplace.

I'm on my 2nd (the 1st was an '11 SE Plus). Your experience with the 4 banger echoes mine - I don't push the 6 in my '14 often, and I never had any issues in either highway or city driving with the 4, but if you've had the 4 and get the 6 you will see a major difference when you go to pass at highway speeds - but it also shows up at the pump at ANY speed.
I do find that the 6 shifts a lot, I suppose that is to be expected; that it shits 50% more often than the 4 speed. I also find it needs a bit of reprogramming in that it likes to engine brake on deceleration - I would expect them to let it freewheel more, rather than downshift - if I want engine braking I think I can figure out how to use the manual override.

But as mentioned, the stock sound system is amazing for the vehicle - given what people say about the premium sound I am very happy I didn't opt for the factory nav, which would have given me that package. It meant that I did my own GPS update and added my own backup camera, because of the way the vehicles are optioned up in Canada - but the inconvenience as minor at best, since I learned a lot about the way the vehicle is built by doing the installs myself.
One major recommendation I have is that given the amount of expensive electronics in the vehicle, if you plan to keep it longer than the basic warranty, a factory extended warranty is likely a good investment.

I'm on my 2nd (the 1st was an '11 SE Plus). Your experience with the 4 banger echoes mine - I don't push the 6 in my '14 often, and I never had any issues in either highway or city driving with the 4, but if you've had the 4 and get the 6 you will see a major difference when you go to pass at highway speeds - but it also shows up at the pump at ANY speed.
I do find that the 6 shifts a lot, I suppose that is to be expected; that it shits 50% more often than the 4 speed. I also find it needs a bit of reprogramming in that it likes to engine brake on deceleration - I would expect them to let it freewheel more, rather than downshift - if I want engine braking I think I can figure out how to use the manual override.

But as mentioned, the stock sound system is amazing for the vehicle - given what people say about the premium sound I am very happy I didn't opt for the factory nav, which would have given me that package. It meant that I did my own GPS update and added my own backup camera, because of the way the vehicles are optioned up in Canada - but the inconvenience as minor at best, since I learned a lot about the way the vehicle is built by doing the installs myself.
One major recommendation I have is that given the amount of expensive electronics in the vehicle, if you plan to keep it longer than the basic warranty, a factory extended warranty is likely a good investment.

I'm on my 2nd (the 1st was an '11 SE Plus). Your experience with the 4 banger echoes mine - I don't push the 6 in my '14 often, and I never had any issues in either highway or city driving with the 4, but if you've had the 4 and get the 6 you will see a major difference when you go to pass at highway speeds - but it also shows up at the pump at ANY speed.
I do find that the 6 shifts a lot, I suppose that is to be expected; that it shits 50% more often than the 4 speed. I also find it needs a bit of reprogramming in that it likes to engine brake on deceleration - I would expect them to let it freewheel more, rather than downshift - if I want engine braking I think I can figure out how to use the manual override.

But as mentioned, the stock sound system is amazing for the vehicle - given what people say about the premium sound I am very happy I didn't opt for the factory nav, which would have given me that package. It meant that I did my own GPS update and added my own backup camera, because of the way the vehicles are optioned up in Canada - but the inconvenience as minor at best, since I learned a lot about the way the vehicle is built by doing the installs myself.
One major recommendation I have is that given the amount of expensive electronics in the vehicle, if you plan to keep it longer than the basic warranty, a factory extended warranty is likely a good investment.

Full disclosure in the initial post would have been nice . . .
If the problem doesn't go away after a 10 minute battery disconnection take it to a dealer. This isn't something you're going to fix without going in and testing things - possibly you have a bad ground or other electrical connection problem - or an issue with the BCM

Do you have automatic headlights? On the second gen (2011+ models), headlights will only come on when you put your vehicle into gear . . . perhaps the sunlight sensor is dead (or covered up with stuff)?

Unfortunately yes, they can.

The vast majority of owners have few problems with the model. I guess you could have gotten the lemon in the group. Does your state's lemon law cover the vehicle?
I suppose that in the end it comes down to the fact that in more than 3 years you've run through a set of tires (which is usually more about how they pave the roads in your area and how you take care of tire pressure and wheel alignment, than it is about the vehicle itself) - If course if something in the front end came loose (there is no 'axle' per se), it could also be about rough roads and such, though loose bolts can happen.

If your CV joints are done it can again be about road conditions.

You haven't given us much information about things like what model you have, which engine and what mileage . . . . is the dealer covering all this under warranty?

And trading it or selling it should certainly not be an issue, unless you tell them how you feel about the vehicle when you speak with prospective buyers or dealers.

Your vehicle is 2 years old - are those the original wipers?

I know that the OEM blade design on my '11 was different than the '14 - so a new set of wiper blades may well solve the problem.

The only real problem with Canadian Tire is that a lot of the stuff they sell is overpriced crap . . . but they have a huge selection of overpriced crap.

Even the E10 they supply is a waste - you'd actually burn less gasoline if there was no ethanol than you do with the E10 we use now - the mileage impact on my motorcycle, comparing E0 premium with E10 premium was 16% - so diluting the gasoline by 10% increases the actual amount of raw undiluted gasoline consumed per mile over what it does without.
Politics and marketing-driven garbage science. Bah.

The base system sounds darned good, why pay extra for a downgrade?

I went through this when I got my '11. Your dealer has nothing from the manufacturer.
The OEM BT add-on does not work for the new generation DJs - you are stuck with buying an aftermarket, external BT device - my vehicle didn't have NAV, so for me it was a no-brainer. I got a Garmin unit with a built-in speakerphone.

There are lots of stand-alone BT adapters on the market.

I went through this when I got my '11. Your dealer has nothing from the manufacturer.
The OEM BT add-on does not work for the new generation DJs - you are stuck with buying an aftermarket, external BT device - my vehicle didn't have NAV, so for me it was a no-brainer. I got a Garmin unit with a built-in speakerphone.

There are lots of stand-alone BT adapters on the market.

On the one hand I am not sorry to see Dee go - she's been a drama queen since day one - some people just do it to themselves. Then again, I recall that she had issues with simple things, like reading the manual.

Now, assuming that her profile is right and she really has an SE, then she has the small engine. The 6 is not available in the SE. And as to why she wouldn't let her brother drive the vehicle? It got good marks on crash tests, but even if it hadn't, the idea is not to hit someone in an offset crash on a 2 lane highway. But that inconsistency on the model/engine combination tends to cast a shadow over her complaints
Let me see, I get about 20 MPG in mixed driving with my V6, but dhh3, mine doesn't easily 'break' free, even when I drive in what my Kawasaki manual used to call a 'spirited manner' unless I'm on a gravel covered road.
As to her issue with roadside assistance? NO ONE would dispatch a service vehicle just to tighten the tire winch without a charge - not Dodge, not whatever roadside plan she has. Hopefully, since she got stranded lying on the ground a passing motorist helped her up and then did the winch up for her.
I am in Canada and our vehicles tend to come with more basic equipment for any given model than the US variant. I went from a 2011 SE Plus that I paid C$19,200 for to a 2014 Crossroad that cost me on the order of $24K after discounts (MSRP was $32K) and I got $9K in trade (all numbers are Canadian dollars) - in the price the dealer also included a full set of winter wheels/snow tires and the overpriced-in-Canada 7 year/115,000 Km extended bumper to bumper, zero deductible extended warranty.
Equipment-wise, my Crossroad came with the 6 cylinder, is front wheel drive and has heated leather seats, the 8" display (I swapped the radio for one with navigation and I added the backup camera), power seat on the driver's side, auto air, auto headlights, the AC power socket, auto up/down windows on both sides plus whatever else it comes with up here (if you really want to know what the differences are you need to go to the Dodge US and Canadian sites and compare the vehicles).

As to problems? I had a leak from the valve cover on the '11 and nothing at all on the current vehicle beyond a flat tire due to a nail.

Consumables are components intended to wear out with use. Brake pads and tires are consumables, oil and other fluids and wipers are consumables.

Wheel bearings are NOT consumables, sorry. Nor are they part of the power train - those are the engine, transmission and drive components that transfer power from the engine to the wheels.
But they ARE only warranted under the basic 3 year/60K warranty. You had more mileage than that when they went (and I'm certain that the engineering people at FCA are very pleased with themselves for having designed a product that was JUST well enough designed to survive to the end of the coverage term.
One more reason for buying an extended bumper-to-bumper warranty from the manufacturer.

Horse manure - if the positive cable isn't connected to the battery and touches the chassis it is no different than if the negative cable is disconnected and touches the battery positive terminal.
In the olden days that wanted you to connect the positive lead of a booster cable to the battery positive and the negative to the chassis ground point as the second point of contact so that any battery fumes floating around the battery wouldn't be ignited by a spark. But the electrons really don't care whether the positive or the negative is disconnected - you end up with the same inrush current when you reconnect things.

The first and most important thing is to figure out WHY it overheated in the first place, because it shouldn't have. And then you need to verify the radiator and heater cores aren't blocked and to get the cooling system properly pressure tested.

dhh3 knows whereof he speaks. I saw the title and was going to comment that uConnect no longer means Bluetooth and that ALL Journeys have uConnect . . . . . . but before the 2011 came out it meant something different.

dhh3 knows whereof he speaks. I saw the title and was going to comment that uConnect no longer means Bluetooth and that ALL Journeys have uConnect . . . . . . but before the 2011 came out it meant something different.

You have a powertrain warranty remaining, but the bumper to bumper component is expired.
So, have you tried the battery disconnect/wait/reconnect yet? Did it help?
Note that almost every procedure that involves electricity (even the disconnecting of the radio, for example) that one does on the DJ and on most modern vehicles begins with 'disconnect the battery'. With any luck all you've done is glitched a controller - and resetting the unit with the battery disconnect procedure would hopefully being it back. If not, this can become expensive, which is why I took an extended warranty for my vehicle.
Among some suggestions that come immediately to mind if resetting does not resolve the problem are to take it to the dealer and do not tell them what you've done and hope that they can somehow get FCA to provide a goodwill warranty settlement or you might search eBay or contact an LKQ member scrapyard and try to get another module from the same model/engine/year as yours (the part number of the component will tell all) and hope that resolves the issue. A really quick check indicates that the TIPM modules go for between $90 and $650, and BCMs for between $50 and . . . . . more.

You have a powertrain warranty remaining, but the bumper to bumper component is expired.
So, have you tried the battery disconnect/wait/reconnect yet? Did it help?
Note that almost every procedure that involves electricity (even the disconnecting of the radio, for example) that one does on the DJ and on most modern vehicles begins with 'disconnect the battery'. With any luck all you've done is glitched a controller - and resetting the unit with the battery disconnect procedure would hopefully being it back. If not, this can become expensive, which is why I took an extended warranty for my vehicle.
Among some suggestions that come immediately to mind if resetting does not resolve the problem are to take it to the dealer and do not tell them what you've done and hope that they can somehow get FCA to provide a goodwill warranty settlement or you might search eBay or contact an LKQ member scrapyard and try to get another module from the same model/engine/year as yours (the part number of the component will tell all) and hope that resolves the issue. A really quick check indicates that the TIPM modules go for between $90 and $650, and BCMs for between $50 and . . . . . more.