5rebel9

Can't tell from your picture, but does the car has the sunroof option? IF it does, then I'd suspect the drain lines are clogged with debris, a common issue with all factory sunroof cars.

SORRY, I need better eyes or enlarge the print size on my screen. Posted manuals are up to 2016. Yes I now see yours is a 2018, and I'm KINDA SURE that the 2.4 in your vehicle is the tiger shark {nickname} and not the older world{nickname} motor. A lot of SIMILARITIES, in procedures but a different cylinder head design, so yes you're going to have to find a manual for that motor. There are many different STELLANTIS models that use this motor, and main torque specs and teardown instructions would be the same for your Journey. Only differences would probably be intake manifold orientation. Again sorry for my poor eyes, good luck on your big job.

2/7/24 UPDATE All 3 Journeys are doing fine, but they all need a good wash from the mud and dust due to no snow to speak of and lack of good steady rain. Typical for farm country. The wife bought a new $50.00 Trac Phone thru Walmart last weekend, as her OLD trac phone could not even connect to her job's wireless system. She got it all transfered and even paired it to her '13RT and LO AND BEHOLD it connects up almost instantaneously now when she gets in the car with her new phone. All the car's functions with bluetooth and phone work perfectly. I had been thinking a module problem since getting the car last summer!

complete manuals for journey ARE posted here on the forum try looking for it rather than asking for them.

There was a thread made about similar problem recently, this was from an independant shop owner . He found that the tab for the switch to work on is plastic formed on the brake pedal arm. He replaced the brake pedal unit and all was good again. Being made of plastic, I wonder if it's pivot point is wearing and causing misalignment to operate the switch properly? Or maybe for this member, that the tab the switch works off from is damaged somehow?

Sorry , I forgot about location of the starter solenoid. All the more reason to check condition of wires that plug into the bottom of the TIPM. An older car, wires deteriorate and pin ends overheat and expand not allowing good connection Don't trust the plastic modular plugs for all the wires to connect, I also use Dielectric grease on all plug connections, just like for battery connections, once cleaned.

That switch is very finicky as it does more than just brakes lights, it also works the shifter lock{what you are probably hearing} and also ties in with the push to start button. Recheck connections on the switch and may have to adjust {somehow} the plunger throw for all to work. I've not had to deal with that switch on any of the 3 DJ's I've got, so good luck to you and keep us here informed to how things go.

OKAY, you need to take the tipm up and check wire pin connectors. you have a start by knowing where and what color code wire you jumped. Trace back from the relat tthru the tipm. I take it this is a USED TIPM you put in? The part numbers need to match up for all things to work{same trim and options between yours and donor car}

Did you "old school" and test for power with key in cranking position at small push on wire of the starter solenoid? When key is turned to the run position, FP should energize and build up fuel pressure, can you disconnect the fuel line and see if fuel is there?

So all is back to OE, anti theft is now turned off. What do you mean by "NO START"? Does the starter motor spin the engine, but ENGINE will not run? NO on an external "reprogram of the TIPM/ fuse panel. Time to now go "old school" and check for spark and also for fuel. YES a bit of a pain, but far easier to do on a 4 cyl than the V6's. No fuel could be plug connection on bottom of TIPM that happens to power fuel pump, OR if a used TIPM the circuit board of TIPM is bad for the fuel pump circuit. They had a problem with that circuit for fuel pump, as the FP relay is hard soldered to the circuit board. SORRY for the delay in responding, was a very hectic week doing research and "training" for NEW electronics on late model FCA vehicles{'18 - '22} with one of my friends shop.

I think I'm now understanding better now But stated before , do you have a second key to try on the car? Is the battery known good and good connections to it? IF so unhook the neg cable at the strut tower for 10 - 15 minutes then reconnect open drivers door and put key in the run position{do NOT CRANK} Open drivers window turn key off and remove {window open is for safety factor that you can get back inside if this does not work} open door and get out lock doors with the door master switch Wait a few minutes then use the KEY in the door lock and unlock the door Get in and try to start. This MAY OR MAY NOT WORK, as I still think there are other fuse panel issues at play, GOOD LUCK

I agree, the regulator is in the PCM and power flows to PCM from TIPM/fuse panel. Have you removed the plastic connectors of PCM and checked for damaged pin connectors from the 2 wire alternator plug?

Without looking up the part{neg. post battery sensor}, I'm not so sure the '10 models use it. Another thing to keep in mind is it is not always a component that fails, a lot of times it's a wire or connection that fails{corrodes or breaks inside the insulation. The charging system circuitry is basically the same thru all years and models of Dodge vehicles using the 2.4 And even more importantly is good clean and TIGHT connections at the battery and TIPM {positive} and strut tower {neg}. I WISH I was computer literate enough to post links as I know of a few good you tube videos about "not charging on the 2.4 motors. AND quite honestly I'm getting confused with just what the main issue of this thread is getting to be. IF not charging when able to start....that is the FIRST fix that needs to be done, don't try and bypass secondary issues of anti theft which does not involve the cars alarm system{that;s a separate function.

Same background here, I have friends yet that have their own shops and spend some time with them to keep up on things as best as able. I've even helped them out on some "perplexing" problems they've had come in. Yes info/ DISinfo can be hard to find and put to use. Time is one "luxury"{?} I have to be able to spend on the web looking up stuff. The TIPM/fuse panel is not easily bypassed for wiring circuitry and when multiple glitches show up, it's almost always best to find a replacement unit., the printed circuit board inside them loves to go bad with breaks or lost solder connections.

Also as you keep posting that the FOB alarm system does not seem to work, you are mistaking one system for the other.Alarm and ANTI THEFT are two different systems. Call me a "purist", but patching in an external voltage regulator rather than finding and fixing the designed system problem is not the way to go. There are a number of you tube videos that show how to check and trace back to the PCM of the 2 wire mini plug {alternator exciter circuit} and determine fault and correct it to make the system charge. You have also posted of some other problems that are known symptoms of a bad fuse panel/TIPM out under the hood. Also power from that provides power for charge circuits to the PCM. These are things that must be checked and tested to find and FIX the overall problem. As was just posted, Dealer level techs have the best capabilities in proper and accurate diagnostics of these kind pf troubles. Good luck

As far as I have learned, there is NO way to disable the anti theft portion on your year or any other dodge products. That's why they call it anti theft.

Sounds like you have multiple different problems. Most prominent being a faulty fuse panel, and a common issue for your year vehicle. Not charging could also be fuse panel related OR wires from the small plug in connector on the alternator back to the PCM, but you have also stated that the circuit was bypassed with installing a separate voltage regulator. My bet on charging is some kind of feed wire to activate the alt. is not connected or broken somewhere. Disconnecting the battery for extended time WILL kick in the anti theft immobilizer.

YUP, I agree with you ! AND it does not comprehend that it's been a "done deal" for 8 months and NOT just a possibility if it had scanned the whole thread of my posts here. But I must also say that there's not much to be done about it, our moderator has asked for help and nobody has stepped up. I can barely do posts and beyond TYPING, I'm lost as to linking in photos or other info from the site to a posting....In other words I'm barely computer literate. On a side note that we all be truthful, the '11 is now titled and insured in my son's name and resides at his home in the next town away from our home. So does this mean that I'm actually back to a 2 Journey family ? Yes I still "spearhead" the maint. work that it will require. IF he thinks something's wrong, he calls me. At least he has learned to check the oil and refill the washer tank!

Factory manuals were posted to the forum, YOU can look up wiring schematics there. Sounds like you MAY have a bad fuse panel. For some background info, WHY were all these parts changed out and did any prove to be faulty? Did you have a high grade computer scan done for any codes? or are you just going by trial and error?

Not really sure of what you are saying in the posting other than from the title of oil pressure trouble. The engine oil pump is a 2 stage pump, unkie most other motors. It has been sort of problematic for a number of 3.6/3.2 engines. BUT it will set OBD trouble codes/ Check engine light for at least 2 different problems. Those are P06DD and P06DE Both mean a new oil pump in the majority of cases. BUT I agree with putting in a new oil pressure sensor first. I did not post of my own oil pump code on the forum here, but recently on my '14 Journey had the P06DE show up and immediately had the oil pump replaced. cost me almost $600. US dollars. Most of that being the cost of an OEM pump and not an aftermarket supplier.

A 2017 and from the Middle East, WHAT ENGINE does it have ? so members are not guessing.

Sorry to hear of the situation. With the myriad of electronics found in these and many other vehicles today, ground{-} connections are critical. You posted the battery is only 2 months old, so I'd doubt the battery. BUT who replaced it? Did the cable connectors get a good cleaning before going onto the new battery? Also the ground connections on the drivers side strut tower are known "weak links". Extreme cold will make marginal connections even worse. When you can get to it{due to the weather}, a good cleaning and application of dielectric grease to battery posts/cable clamps and on the strut tower connections along with the RED {+} connection to the underhood fuse panel should get your ride up and going. Welcome to the Forum and my what a wonderful weather time to have this problem occur!

Having done the heater core the same way as you posted. YES one needs to be VERY GENTLE with vibrations of cutting the lines on the new heater core, or damage will happen as you post. I also knew that when using heater hose and screw clamps that you also need to go back to them after a little while and RECHECK the clamps tightness. My son who drives the vehicle I post of did not give me a chance to do such UNTIL he complained of a wet drivers side floor and lack of heat. The time period involved was also right about a month. If you are sure it's from tube to core body, whatever you decide to do, make sure you recheck the rubber hoses and clamp tightness.

AH YES! I must not forget about the work on the "CADDY"!

Just to "fuel" your imagination, since panels are out and I'm sure there are LOTS available at wreckers. what about "engineering" access panels to such as the strut areas? ALL the work "plumbing" in the air ride AND the sound system deserves to be open to be seen. But in my own opinion, the interior needs to be "modestly covered".....so to speak LOL Just trying to keep those "upgrade plans" moving thru your mind thru the COLD WINTER MONTHS !